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Mailidave's Painting Showcase


David Blank

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as to highlighting, you can decide in what direction you want the lightsource to be coming from, and actually hold the model with a light coming that direction...it will show you where the highlights would fall naturally

 

but most will just highlight all the "high" points, top edges of folds in cloth, edges of armor etc... and it will give you a good quality look

 

painting is all about practice, dont be afraid to try new things when you paint.... worst case, you need to rebase coat an area you are not happy with and try again.... 

you are gonna make mistakes, or things that wont turn out quite like you envision them in your head, and thats ok, learn from it.

 

it wont take long til you find your painting has improved in leaps in bounds!

 

--Woe

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Very well done! Satisfactorily disgusting and disturbing!  :D

 

The most impressive thing, I think, is that blue vein in the middle of all the inner organs. VERY cleanly done!! And that puppy is almost impossible to find on the model, I bet!

 

Just a tiny bit about drybrushing... looks like you might have had a bit too much paint on the brush, so don't forget to try and wipe of most of it before flicking the tips of the bristles across the raised areas of the model. Thought it's called 'drybrushing', you still need the brush to be slightly damp in order to get the paint to slide off of it a little easier. Drybrushing is like chess... easy to learn, but the subtleties of it are VERY hard to master. I'm certainly not a master at it, but I've come a long way in decades of painting... And I still have a lot to learn. Drybrushing can be very soft and delicate... just needs a lot of slow build up, if you have the patience. I usually don't... hahaha  :lol:

 

I love the color choices on the model! Very realistic! As realistic as an Asian vampire can be, I suppose...  ;) The green around the eyes really stands out to me. I love that!

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Just a tiny bit about drybrushing... looks like you might have had a bit too much paint on the brush, so don't forget to try and wipe of most of it before flicking the tips of the bristles across the raised areas of the model. Thought it's called 'drybrushing', you still need the brush to be slightly damp in order to get the paint to slide off of it a little easier. Drybrushing is like chess... easy to learn, but the subtleties of it are VERY hard to master. I'm certainly not a master at it, but I've come a long way in decades of painting... And I still have a lot to learn. Drybrushing can be very soft and delicate... just needs a lot of slow build up, if you have the patience. I usually don't... hahaha  :lol:

 

I really struggle with dry brushing, I either get too little paint left and it looks lovely and subtle but the brush 'drags' or I get too much on and the brush is lovely and smooth but then my highlights look a little 'cel animation' it's really tricky but I'm learning to love the errors!

Any reccs on brush shape for dry brushing btw?

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Malidave, Yan Lo's glow looks solid. It'll take a bit to get things smoother, but if you're starting with lighting effects this early, they should start coming really naturally to you. For inking/shading, I'd try using thinner ink in more layers. If water causes it to bead, flow retarder will thin it while keeping the same viscosity. (Flow retarder is the art store name, it's called something different by hobby stores and costs a ton more.)

 

I'm fairly unusual in this (I think) but unless I can avoid it, I tend to thin regular paint instead of using inks for all but the brightest colors. Also, inks tend to leave that glossy sheen which isn't the most conducive to painting and makes it harder to photograph stuff- I'd recommend getting a spray matte varnish to cut that when you're done working on a mini or if painting on dried ink is giving you trouble.

 

 

 

 

Tollbooth, there are specific drybrushing brushes. They tend to have square profiles (rather than pointed or wedge shaped) and usually but don't always have stiffer bristles. Also, drybrushing wears out your brushes like nobody's business, so it's good to use them just for drybrushing. In a pinch, if you have a decent but no longer in good shape normal (wide-ish) brush, that'll work.

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Cool! I think you've got a good sense of color and tone, my only criticism is that you paint looks very dry- it may be that there's not a ton of blending (though the wendigo looks good, himself), but something's causing it to look like the top layer is a bit coarse (particularly on the Guild guy's coat).

 

Also, fun look for the base.

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Sure! for weathered, two methods I've worked on are

-thinning paint and inking the recesses, then pulling streaks down, repeating with highlights pulling up- this needs to be done very carefully until you get the hang of it or it'll look like you tried to do wood grain. This should produce a dark weathering from water etc.

-very lightly drybrushing (where it's like a powder almost) either bone/off-white, or your main color mixed with bone along the edge, as this'll give a dry weathering from dust etc.

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