Bloaty Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 (edited) So I just got my Pandora in the mail recently and painted them up. Some of the detail is blurred out of the pics a little like Pandora's hair is darker on the model than the pic and Candy's ruffles are just blurry. Pandora! New Candy after attempting new eyes. Still kinda blurry though. Candy old eyes. Baby Kade Poltergiest Sorrows Doppleganger, she's turning into Pandora and there's an awesome mold line in her back! Teddy, this one is years old from my Dreamer crew but now this one pals with Kade and the NM one is with Dreamer. Full crew. Anyone have any tips on painting faces better? I usually just use black wash and hope people don't look but with Malifaux, I think I want actual faces. Edited December 20, 2013 by ClockworkGirl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_was_like_you Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Painting looks good, even the faces. But it's the seams that stand out. Did you use superglue instead of plastic cement? Plastic cement will melt the pieces together to get rid of seams and provides a much stronger bond. It's available wherever model cars are sold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpiralngCadavr Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 re: faces, a few pointers: it's easier to go with a dark skintone around the eyes instead of black. also, bone works better than white on eyes. dotting the pupils is really a matter of practice, though I've heard some like to do black eyes and dot the whites in. you can clean up the edges of the eye after finishing thin paints when working on faces, doing it very thick will obscure details male faces will have more contrast around the brows, eye sockets, and under the cheek bones- having more than a little on women will make them look old or masculine for lips, you usually only want to paint the bottom one- both will usually look puffy caucasian skin in particular has far more pink in it than you think- look for very warm browns for the shadows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloaty Posted December 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 The glue I use says its for plastics, however its incredibly think so I have to wipe the excess off when assembling. Plastic models usually get stuck with lines but metal models look fine. Its weird. What's the consistency of the glue you recommend? I mainly play Warmahordes and that's all metal unlike Malifaux which is now plastic, so I should be fixing this from here out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mason Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 dotting the pupils is really a matter of practice, though I've heard some like to do black eyes and dot the whites in. I usually just paint the face, then do horizontal slashes of off-white for the eyes. I'll go in and do vertical slashes of a darker color for the pupil, and then come back and paint the face color in around the edges of the eyes. It works so much better than actually trying to dot the eyes. As far as shading goes, GW sells a "Reikland Fleshshade" wash that works great for skin tones, especially with their "Cadian Fleshtone" base skin color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_was_like_you Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 I usually just paint the face, then do horizontal slashes of off-white for the eyes. I'll go in and do vertical slashes of a darker color for the pupil, and then come back and paint the face color in around the edges of the eyes. It works so much better than actually trying to dot the eyes. As far as shading goes, GW sells a "Reikland Fleshshade" wash that works great for skin tones, especially with their "Cadian Fleshtone" base skin color. That's my recommendation, as well. As far as glue that will bond plastic, metal, etc., versus actual plastic cement, go with plastic cement. I recommend the light blue Testors plastic cement. [It has a citrus smell to it. *happy*] Make sure you dry fit your pieces together first, trimming and retrimming as need be for a perfect fit. Then use a toothpick or pin to apply a small amount to just one side. Press and hold the pieces together for a moment to allow it to form a strong bond. Make sure you hold it steady, so rest your hands on the desk or something to avoid any minor wiggles. If you use too much of it, it will ooze out of the gap, so wipe that off with a paper towel or a gloved finger. [Your fingerprints can mar the model when you use plastic cement] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nagash13 Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 i prefer this glue for plastics. it has a super thin metal tube for an applicator. that helps with preventing gobs of glue ending up on the model http://www.testors.com/product/0/8872C/_/Liquid_Cement_For_Plastic you use so little one of those bottles lasts a long time. my last one lasted almost 3 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lussuria Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 Really like how you did these! And love the touches for colouring the bases! That baby kade looks creeeepy! Well done *grin* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloaty Posted December 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 Alrighty, I followed Mindshred's advice with the lines and slashes and whatnot and redid Candy's eyes, they came out a little better but I really need more practice. The new pic blurs the whites of her eyes and face together, but at least they're the right size and proportion now. Thanks for the helpful info malifolks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synthet Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 When you shade the skintone use as described earlier a darker skintone. You can try to mix in some brown or even dark red in the basic skintone to get a nice color for shading. Then use it like a wash (or if you want to do some more work, rather paint it on instead of washing). After drybrushing you can go over the surface with a wash to smothen out the drybrush. You might have to do another highlight after the wash is dry since you bring back all colors one step. I really like the use of the transparent plastic and keeping the plastic visiable on some models, great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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