Cutting Off The Tab

[Oscilioth]

I'm planning on putting my Rotten Belle on a base that will require me to cut the tab off beneath its dress, however its got a lot of surface area attached to it and I imagine its going to take a decent amount of cutting, scraping and filing to get the dress bottom flat. I've already painted my model and don't want to manhandle it too much.

Any ideas how to cut it off quickly and smoothly?

Thanks in advance :1_Happy_Puppet2:

[Demonn Agram]

I did the same with my belles, I just used a pair of pliars and rocked the tab back and forth a bit and it snapped fairly straight.

then I'd suggest that you wrap the model in the piece of sponge you get in the clams/blisters when cutting the excess material. that way you don't apply preasure directly to the paint. In my experience it has worked out fine...

[the imp]

Wire cutters and sandpaper are standard gear in my modeling kit.

[CrouchingMoose]

I also use cutters but tend to use a small metal file rather than sandpaper since its a lot more durable.

Im also beginning to lean towards using a dremel tool with a cutting bit (looks like a thin disc covered in sandpaper) for some of the bigger, nastier parts that need to get removed. You do need to be careful though when using a dremel near a model because if your to forceful with it you can damage the model

[Saint Norton]

Flush cut sidecutters are the ticket. I picked up mine from the local harbor freight for $1.99. Takes those tabs off and leaves almost no trace behind.

[CRC]

I found the best way to avoid damaging the paint job was to varnish the model and leave it overnight to really dry.

After that, they're pretty resistant, if you're careful.

Also, pinning to the base requires less man-handling than trying to file the bottom smooth.

[CannonFodder]

Flush cut sidecutters are the ticket. I picked up mine from the local harbor freight for $1.99. Takes those tabs off and leaves almost no trace behind.

This is the key, I used to use a cheap set of cutters, but they were double edged. Meaning that on each half of the cutter, its filed on both sides. So when the cutters are closed and you slide your finger from one side to the other there was a big groove. This makes it impossible t make clean cuts. Flush cuts are only files on one side so it smooth when closed. Now I can do the cuts in 2 seconds instead of 15 minutes.

[tattyted]

If you are talking about the one whose dress touches the ground (as opposed to the other two where the tab only joins at the feet) then there is a lot of metal to get through and you will need to make several goes with the wire cutters. You will need to grip the figure hard and exert a lot of pressure on the cutters.

If you have access to a fine toothed saw (bone saw) it is much better for this sort of work, although the wire cutters are excellent for other models with far less model/flash contact. As said above, take the time to find flush cut cutters or you will have a lot of follow up sanding.

[LonelyPath]

Normally I use some nice fine nosed cutters that I picked up years ago for removing tabs, then file is smooth with a file. All of this before painting then pin the model to a temporary base whilst painting (with the help of some Blu-tac as well as the pin). However, post painting I recommend a jewelers saw (a cheaper option is often available these days as a modeling/hobby saw) and some filing after the cut to make sure it's nice and smooth before pinning.

[dsmiles]

I use a razor saw and a Dremel, but I usually cut the tab before I paint.

[Saint Norton]

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/micro-flush-cutter-90708.html

Sorry for the thread necro-mancy here. Thought i'd post these up after finding them. HarborFreight often has these on sale for like $2 or less. These are great for clipping models, etc.