Mergoth Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 I've been trying to finish off some swamp bases for my girlfriend's crew (she chose Ophelia) using gloss varnish to make realistic water in pools I painstakingly engineered. Or at least that's how I thought it should work, but the varnish has been having other ideas, instead of drying and making me a happy gamer it mostly likes to use capillary action and sort of climb out and spread itself all over the base. Does anyone know any tips to make it behave? Or perhaps a different product to try? I haven't had this much fun since I dropped the painted Ophelia onto a tiled floor about 3 hours ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBugKing Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Any chance you could post pictures of the bases? It would be a lot easier to help if you did. If you are having capillary action problems with the varnish I would venture to guess you are poring a puddle in. Paint it on in very thin layers that have no ability to flow and you will get a smooth gloss finish in about 5 coats or so with no capillary action problems. Another product to try is Poor On by Envirotex Lite. It's what I used to the Swamp Demo table at Gencon last year. I also use it for water effects on bases. It's a two part epoxy polymer that dries crystal clear and can be pored in layers up to about 3/4" thick. Again, proper help really needs pictures so we can see what you are working with. (Don't drop your models. It hurts on so many levels. Just stop doing it. It's easier that way.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 On another note, don't forget to close the catches on your figure case before heading off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mergoth Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 (edited) (Don't drop your models. It hurts on so many levels. Just stop doing it. It's easier that way.) I was actually carrying her into the other room to varnish, then - boom - rolled a one, flipped black joker, turnover, snake eyes, what have you. Anyway, action failed. I'll try and post pics if I don't get it sorted by monday. Warpcon starts tomorrow so painting is on standby. Yes another kick in the teeth as this was to be my finale (for like 3 days). Edit: @Ratty. Actually I will need to be reminded of stuff like this because if I drop my Daemons before I even get to the con, well, it'll be like Columbine but with more BO and energy drinks. Edited January 28, 2011 by Mergoth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Though I do like Envirotex Lite for terrain pieces it is a bit more difficult to use for smaller bases. For those I prefer Woodland Scenics Realistic Water with a touch of gryphonne sepia to color (and Woodland Scenics Water Effect after if I want it to have some ripples). It is esier to pour without getting all over everything else. Unfortunately depending on what else is on your base, some capillary action is bound to happen (even with envirotex lite). Best advice I can give is to seal everything first so as to minimize it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chev Chelios Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 You can use Envirotex on the bases.It is a good idea to have a depression for it to sit in.Mostly done by cutting out the center of the base and adding a new center to it.Make sure and seal the edges to keep it from leaking out.I have had some success with Water Effects,as well as UHU Glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mergoth Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Might just stick to good old PVA kids glue mixed with ink and see how I get on with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Clouds a lot (great for smooth ice effects though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBugKing Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 For really fine detail applications of ETex Lite I mix it up in a cup then apply with a toothpick like item in small drops. (I typically shave down a piece of balsa wood into what ever shape I need for the application) I would also advise against using PVA glue. You could try to get Liquitex gloss heavy gel medium and simply sculpt in your water effects. This stuff is great for doing really high relief waves and the like. Or for having large ripples in your water effects. (Thing the bottom of a waterfall or a waterfall for that matter) Another product that you may want to check out is Self leveling gel which can be tinted with any acrylic based paint or ink. It has some shrinkage issues though so it usually requires multiple applications. It combines really well with the heavy gel though to generate some great water effects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kreation Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 I use "water effects", which u can get at train stores. It's looks like elmer's glue, but is a bit thicker and dries clear. You can also use a brush (old one) to add ripples and even "swish" it up to look like waves. I also keep an eye-dropper of the more liquidy water stuff (not sure its name) and just drop it in those areas that are hard to get to with the thicker water effects. I then matte coat my minis and come back and hit just those areas with a coat of hi-gloss brush on varnish. The matte finish really makes the water pop. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you want the actual names; I'm just too lazy to go upstairs and look right now. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Steve Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 I model my water features on bases using green stuff glued to the edges then pour the varnish in once I have painted the muddy green brown finish I want, oh and glue any reeds etc in. First time I did it I didnt glue the green stuff just stuck it down and had the capilary action but then after it had dried I repoured and it was fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yazza Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Clouds a lot (great for smooth ice effects though). elaborate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBugKing Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Ice usually looks cloudy white. So if you lay down a layer of ETex Light and then float a thin layer of PVA on top of that (After the resin dries) it winds up looking like a layer of ice. You can also gently peel sections up and cut them to look like cracks and the like. Then poor another layer to have more "ice" A small amount of blue tinting really sells the effect as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 @ TheBugKing :top: Couldn't have said it better myself, are you a professional or something? (absolutely love your stuff man) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBugKing Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Yeah, sort of. I'm do a lot of work for Warcast Studios. There is some really great stuff coming out in the future. Did the functioning drawbridge for PP as well as the Demo board for Wyrd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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