Hatchethead Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Blick responded this morning with a confirmed shipping quote of $5.01 USD for USPS shipping. My brushes are on the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffsnog Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 I have a few GW brushes red and orange ends as well as a handful of prisms Olof brushes which are junkies that went bad fast. I primarily have W&N Galeria brushes. They work fine for me and some I've had for a few years even. I treat my brushes like gold though. They get cleaned after each use and bi-monthly they get washed and conditioned in Paul mitchel shampoo(girlfriend is a cosmetologist). As for the wet pallet. Parchment paper on top of a wet paper towel on top of a plastic plate or GLAD Tupperware lid works just fine and is cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Rosemary and Co, alot of the good painters use them now. Same quality as WN7 but 1/3 the cost, the series 33 short handles is the ones to go for. I mentioned earlier that the Rosemary & Co. series 33 were available locally here in Canada, which is totally false. My mistake. There's a garbage synthetic brand with a similar name available at Michaels that had me confuzzled. As I continue researching the various brush types, brand names and the series therein, I find myself more and more curious as to how different Kolinsky brushes handle. I've already committed to a number of Raphael brushes and even a Winsor & Newton, but the Rosemary & Co. are a very interesting value proposition. The shipping to Canada is twice that of dickblicks.com ($11), but the brushes themselves compared to W&N, Raphael and da Vinci are almost 50% cheaper across the board (about $4.75 per brush). Considering the praise they've been receiving, that's pretty impressive. Despite having new brushes en route from Blicks, I may place an order for several larger Rosemary & Co. series 99 red sable brushes for larger paintjobs, to take the place of my weathered GW tank brush and whatnot. Apparently they bitch slap GW brushes and even one-up the red Armypainter "Hobby" brushes. Not Kolinsky, but definitely high quality sable. I may sneak in a few series 33 as well, maybe a 2/0 and a 0, if only to appease my curiosity. The series 22 are tempting, but the extra cost associated with a slightly larger belly hardly seems worth it. Thanks for bringing these to my attention, Kaine. I treat my brushes like gold though. They get cleaned after each use and bi-monthly they get washed and conditioned in Paul mitchel shampoo(girlfriend is a cosmetologist). On that note, I am curious about brush storage and maintenance. What soaps/conditioners do y'all use? I already have a tub of BJ's Masters Brush Cleaner, which seems to be universally loved. I've also heard good things about Pink Soap, especially as a conditioner. Some recommend turpenoid for getting deep into the ferrule once in awhile, but I'm not convinced it's the best thing for natural hair brushes. Also, what's the best way to store brushes? I've heard that expensive brushes should never be stored vertically unless they are totally dry OR hung bristle side down to keep water from pooling in the ferrule, thus dissolving the glue binding the bristles ('cause yeah, the glue isn't water resistant go figure). As a result, most suggest that brushes be dried laying flat or hung upside down. I've run across a few "brush racks" that allow you to hang brushes bristle down to dry, but they often use a spring to grip the brush, one that looks like it would chew the handle to hell. Any tips? Admittedly, I've treated my cheap brushes like crap to this point, which might explain their overall raggedy-ass-ed-ness. I'm looking to change my ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffsnog Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Do NOT use terpenoid just don't I won't even go into it. you should never be putting paint farthur up than half way up the bristles. You should never be getting paint up into the ferrul EVER. This is why I do not ever lend out my brushes as they are worth their weight in gold. Just use any brush cleaner you want make sure you clean them after at least every other use. The best thing to do is clean them with REAL shampoo. Even if your using synthetic brushes. You can condition them once a month. Or just get a 2 in 1 shampoo/conditioner. Go to the dollar store or something. You can use brush cleaners and I do while I'm working with them but afterwards they get a gentle shampooing. If you take care of your brushes you will never ever ever need to clean out the ferrul. If you do need to clean it out it's time to get a new brush. Then there is whole subject on changing water. I do it constantly. One of my friends never changes his water and has his reasons. I dislike dirty water but then again he puts golden daemon winners to shame. So I could be wrong there. I paranoid about keeping my water and brushes clean though. On storage they get stuck to on the inside of the tool chest I use to keep my paint in. I have a few strips of blue tac on the lid and I just press them into it. If you want you can get a brush cleaner and just not put any solution in it.'if you dont want to buy one just get a medium spring and glue two sticks to the and and cram it in some styrofoam. Then you can push the brushes into the spaces and they will hang there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Thanks, Griffsnog. Real shampoo/conditioner? Interesting. That was my thought, as well. "Why the hell do you have paint in your ferrule?" Then I thought yeah, it must be dirty water getting up in there, with little bits of pigment. I watch a lot of painting tutorials and many suggest that dirty water adds homogeneity across an entire piece. Your friend is likely on to something, though I suppose both methods (clean versus dirty) have merit. I tend toward dirty water, and not because I thought it was the right thing to do ... more a laziness thing. Pure, dumb luck that it's actually beneficial. Hoping to break the lazy habit, but I'll likely stick with filthy water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffsnog Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 You are correct about the dirty water I just didn't want to put up a wall of text that was a tangent about painting but if you clean out your brushes enough it won't ever be a problem for you. As far as the shampoo, brushes are made of hair, shampoo is for cleaning hair. Therefor you may clean brushes with shampoo, Whig is what a brush cleaner is anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 (edited) As far as the shampoo, brushes are made of hair, shampoo is for cleaning hair. Therefor you may clean brushes with shampoo ... Exactly why I balk at the thought of using terpenoid; I certainly wouldn't want to dip my hair in it. I have no doubt that shampoo and natural hair brushes work well together, you're simply the first person I've run across to suggest the idea ... which, I suppose, is a little odd when you think about it (the fact that no one has suggested it, not the idea). Edited January 29, 2011 by Hatchethead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffsnog Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Turpenoid is for cleaning brushes used with oil based paints. It will break down acrylics and other water based products as well including the glue holding your bristles in the brush. Brushes for oil based paints are usually what is called a china bristle. It's tough stuff that can withstand the solvents in oil based products. Solvents evaporate quickly and take bits or pigment and resin with them. These costumed in the ferrul on your brush making a special cleaner necessary. I run a paint department and I could continue to ramble on but I won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I noticed that. On every tin of turpenoid, it specifically indicates oil based paints. Makes me wonder why so many recommend it for cleaning brushes destined entirely for acrylics. Whacky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffsnog Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I noticed that. On every tin of turpenoid, it specifically indicates oil based paints. Makes me wonder why so many recommend it for cleaning brushes destined entirely for acrylics. Whacky. Have you ever seen the Simpsons Episode where Homers runs up to Marge and exclaims, "See I fried my shirt!" Marge says, "I didn't say 'you couldn't deep fry your shirt.' I said 'You shouldn't'". Its kind of like that. You COULD use it but you SHOULDN'T use it with acrylic brushes. now if your stuck in the stone age and still using Testors enamels I can't help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I think I'll stick with my Masters soap and maybe a post-cleaning oil/reshaper, like Kafka's or something similar (depends what I can find locally) ... maybe an occasional hit of Pantene Pro V. :nod: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxvon_d Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Like Kaine, I use Rosemary & Co brushes. Exclusively these days. Really good brushes and very reasonably priced (here in the UK at least). At the moment I find myself switching back and forth between Series 33 sizes 1 and 3/0. I recently got a pot of Masters Brush Cleaner soap. It's scary how much gunk it gets out of the brushes! Expensive stuff though from my local art store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Like Kaine, I use Rosemary & Co brushes. Exclusively these days. Really good brushes and very reasonably priced (here in the UK at least). At the moment I find myself switching back and forth between Series 33 sizes 1 and 3/0. I recently got a pot of Masters Brush Cleaner soap. It's scary how much gunk it gets out of the brushes! Expensive stuff though from my local art store. I currently have three Rosemary & Co. brushes en route, one size 5 series 99 for large jobs and a pair of series 33 (size 0 and 2/0) for everything else. I also have a triple threat of Raphael brushes and a single Winsor & Newton 7 coming from dickblick.com. Admittedly, it's more than I need; but I feel justified, allowing myself to make an informed decision as I settle into a groove and eventually choose between two or three favored Kolinsky brushes. I'm still itching to try a da Vinci, but that can wait. Coincidentally, I've decided to postpone ordering Lelu, Jack Daw and a Friekorps Hunter. :embarasse I've heard nothing but great things about the BJ's Masters soap. Mona Lisa Pink Soap seems popular, as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captaincarrot Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 I'll add another vote for Rosemary & Co. Series 33 I use cheap nylon brushes for all the dirty jobs like varnishing and drybrushing and metallics. I always keep the R&C brushes for all the painting. They've outlasted every other brush I've had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 (edited) Unrelated but related: Rosemary & Co. run a tight ship. I wasn't sure what to expect when I placed an order, but I've been pleasantly surprised. Her website is great, the ordering process is smooth. I've received four updates since submitting my order, including a Canada Post tracking number this morning. I'm not sure how that works, if she has a branch here in Canada or it shipped from the UK w/ tracking (never seen that before). Either way, class act. Dickblick.com on the other hand, no confirmation of shipping (yet). Not really a knock against Dick, he's very reputable, I'm sure his website processes a ton of orders compared to Rosemary's ... but still. C'mon Dick. Edited February 1, 2011 by Hatchethead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AvatarForm Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 I have been using the same 3 GW brushes for a while now, though I have a selection of W&N and Kolinski brushes for different techniques and fine detailing. I mainly use the GW brushes for drybrushing (a old one); blocking out; and blending... TBH, try a few... it comes down to your preferred technique and what you feel comfortable with... I have meaty paws and prefer the thicker handles... also, if you look after ay brush it wont need to be replaced often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 I used to really like the GW brushes (when they had the red handles). I believe they also had Kolinsky written on the side. The newer ones I got to replace them just weren't very good except for dry bruching (the replacements had blue handles). Since I can get the W&N Series 7 for just a few dollars more then the GW's from Dick Blick I haven't given them another chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AvatarForm Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 I used to really like the GW brushes (when they had the red handles). I believe they also had Kolinsky written on the side. The newer ones I got to replace them just weren't very good except for dry bruching (the replacements had blue handles). Since I can get the W&N Series 7 for just a few dollars more then the GW's from Dick Blick I haven't given them another chance. WOW... GW changed brushes? I have had mine for over 12 years (with a 5year hiatus) because I cared for them. They are probably past their prime, but they still do... and they have RED handles... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffsnog Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 WOW... GW changed brushes? I have had mine for over 12 years (with a 5year hiatus) because I cared for them. They are probably past their prime, but they still do... and they have RED handles... yeah those are OLD school, I haven't seen those since the late 90's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Looking at my current crop of beat-to-death brushes, I have one red-handled Citadel "Standard" with "Finest Quality Sable - England". Compared to the rest, it's not in terrible shape. It's a little split, holds a decent tip when wet. Considering how poorly I've treated my brushes to this point, that's pretty impressive. I think I picked this one up during the late days of WHFB 5th edition, maybe early 6th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brushmistress Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 For what it's worth, I'll go ahead and echo that Windsor Newton Series 7 size 0 is my brush of choice. The regular round point, not miniature. No special cleaning products needed either - just wash them gently with warm soapy water when you're done painting and lick to a point. I purchase mine from Dick Blick - they run around $9 a brush from them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Thanks for the input, Brushmistress. Question, to you and any other die hard Winsor & Newton fan: Have you noticed any quality control issues during your time using W&N? I've run across dozens of reports citing "bum" Series 7 brushes, split points and curved bristles being the most common complaints. Lots of people out there won't touch W&N anymore due to bad experiences, and plenty recommend buying in person whenever possible to sort through the "garbage"; a fairly serious gripe to level against the long standing, reputable brush maker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brushmistress Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 No, I've never had a problem, and I've been using them for 6 years now. The closest thing to an issue I've had was a bristle that was bent over when I received the brush, so I just sliced it off with a hobby knife and kept on painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 (edited) Cheers! Edited February 2, 2011 by Hatchethead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bexley Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 2" China bristle. If you can't paint a GD-winning figure with one, then hang up your brushes, you talentless hack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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