Looking for advice (paints)

[ddot]

Currently using P3 for colors and Vallejo Game Color (VGC) metallics. Wanted to try some different paints. I have used most of the VGC line and was extremely happy with them and since getting some new sable and Kolinsky brushes am becoming very much happy with the P3 again.

I wanted to get as many opinions as possible regarding the Vallejo Model Color (VMC) line as well as Reaper Master paints and their other line (cant think of name and site is down.)

I am particularly interested if anyone who has used both lines can compare - contrast the two. As I said, I really am just looking to get as much information on my options available. i can get all lines locally, that is not an issue.

Thank you,

Todd

[AvatarForm]

Hi Todd,

I use the following:

VMC - you will find these flow very well and require less dilution than some other brands to effectively blend. A large, complete range of pigments and Inks.

VGC - you use it, but as above. Stay away from their true metallics, I have not had a good one yet.

P3 - these seem to be the most popular at present. Not only for blends, but also for their pigments. This range seems to possess a few colours that are not available straight in other ranges or require blends. The Menoth Highlight and Trollblood Highlight are my favourites for doing whites.

GW - their foundations apply well, I havent used their regular colour. The wash range are almost a necessity, unless you already know how o use Inks.

Reaper - I have heard many good things, but $650 for a complete set (216 paints/$3.00 each) is a bargain when I can afford it. This range is also changing over time, while some colours are no longer made, newer pigments have been introduced.

[St. Anger]

I use primarily P3 and VMC. I also really like some of the Reaper Triads, some GW, some Citadel and VGC. It is mainly to fill out color ranges and give some variations. You may find that you like the consistency of some metallics better from one line over another. I like P3s silver metallics for the most part, with oily steel being one of my favorites. However, I prefer Vallejo golds better, with the exception of P3 Brass Balls. It is all a matter of personal preference and how the paints work with your style of painting. My friends have some differing thoughts that work for them.

Try different colors and how you mix your paints. Eventually, you will find what works best for you.

[Omenbringer]

Never really liked the P3's.

I mainly use GW's line (especially their metals). I have never really had a problem with them, especially after I started adding flow improver and matte and gloss mediums to the paints. Their new washes and foundations are fantastic for us mortal painters that want better results. Also they are so readily available.

I love the Reaper Master Series, they are awesome. And the triads really take the guess work of painting (whether for table top quality or painting contest entry). The dropper bottles are great at both protecting the paint while its stored and reducing wasted paint.

I have toyed with VMC and VGC and wasn't super impressed by them. To me they dried funny and are annoyingly difficult to find at the LGS. I much prefer the RMS for the price.

[AvatarForm]

I have toyed with VMC and VGC and wasn't super impressed by them. To me they dried funny and are annoyingly difficult to find at the LGS. I much prefer the RMS for the price.

I have not used the entire P3 range, but would be curious as to why they did not perform well for you.

Main problem with GW paints is that they cost twice as much as superior paints. Yes, the metallics perform well, but the pigments are available in other ranges for half the price. As listed before, I use select paints/washes/metallics but not the remainder of the range.

Thanks for the confimration of the Reaper Master and Triads range. Im saving for the lot at present.

In addition to the dropper bottles being fantastic for control and protection, the Vallejo ranges are fantastic in terms of performance and value for $. Im curious to know what you mean by "dried funny"...

[Catyrpelius]

I'm a big fan of the Reaper Master Series, its my go to paint right now. GW metalics are still my preferred metalic though.

[AkumaKaze]

After using many different paint brands I am the most impressed with P3. They flow smoothly, dry evenly, blend well, and you don't really need to do much multi-coating in order for a color to be consistent. They are a bit of like a candy coating, however, so they tend to flake at extremities from harsh use. To prevent that I use Testors Dullcoat spray. In all actuality, everyone should use Dullcoat if they travel around with painted crews regardless of paint brand. It saves your hours of work from having to be touched up and it takes 10 seconds to spray it on a mini.

Even though I swear by P3 paints I still use their washes and metallics the most. They are top-notch.

[Omenbringer]

I have not used the entire P3 range, but would be curious as to why they did not perform well for you.

They were to much work to keep the pigment suspended in the medium (I tend to paint in spurts with rather long hiatus's). I always had to shake them more then other paints (even with the massager I use for this purpose and the plastic beads I use as agitators in each pot). Also for me they required a lot more flow improver and matte/gloss medium then my other paints to keep wet/fluid. Once again this is probably more a problem caused by the long periods between uses.

Main problem with GW paints is that they cost twice as much as superior paints. Yes, the metallics perform well, but the pigments are available in other ranges for half the price. As listed before, I use select paints/washes/metallics but not the remainder of the range.

For me GW has been easier to find in the brick and mortar stores then many of the other brands mentioned and is about the same price. For the table top (read actual play not display) the quality isn't that bad either.

the Vallejo ranges are fantastic in terms of performance and value for $. Im curious to know what you mean by "dried funny"...

Hard to explain but the closeest thing that describes it is "skin drying" where it will look dry but is actually still wet (not fully bonded to the underlayers). I dont paint with a hairdryer near by (like some do) so have noticed that if I am in the zone and moving fast on a model (usually when working on the small final details) that I can occasionally pull the top skin of the drying paint off (leaving pockmarks and streaks). I have noticed this mostly in their metals. For me they are more work then they are worth (and in my experience the most difficult paints to get at the smaller brick and mortar stores I frequent and easily as expensive as the competition).

Keep in mind that I do not consider myself a pro or competition painter, I paint for the table top. I dont like to play bare metal or unfinished models so being able to get things finished quickly (and yet still presentable) is more important to me then having the jaw dropping paint jobs that sit in a glass case for display only. With this in mind I would agree that the Reaper Master Series paints are the best of all worlds (they will grow with your experience level better then any other brand). I am slowly transitioning to RMS as I run out of GW.

[Iamwyrd]

I use P3 plain and simple. I use GW metals, and washes. That's about it. No real back story to why I choose P3, I just like P3s quality and cost, and with the mixing medium, the glazing is nice and even.

[Vash Axis]

I like to use the P3 paints as well. The amount you get is more than GW and costs the same. The paints mix well and spread well for a nice thin coat.

[AvatarForm]

They were to much work to keep the pigment suspended in the medium (I tend to paint in spurts with rather long hiatus's). I always had to shake them more then other paints. Also for me they required a lot more flow improver and matte/gloss medium then my other paints to keep wet/fluid.

I tend to use a wet palette, so dont seem to need mediums except for water. I assume you use a dry palette?

For me GW has been easier to find in the brick and mortar stores then many of the other brands mentioned and is about the same price. For the table top (read actual play not display) the quality isn't that bad either.

Availability is one thing I have toruble with due to living remotely. I order everything online. I do not doubt GW/Citadel are more available and present. Its more the cost per pot that gets me. Here in AUS its 12ml for $AUD6, whereas others can keep theirs down to $AUD3-4 for 17ml (and the dropper-style is also preferred for control).

Hard to explain but the closeest thing that describes it is "skin drying" where it will look dry but is actually still wet (not fully bonded to the underlayers). I dont paint with a hairdryer near by (like some do) so have noticed that if I am in the zone and moving fast on a model (usually when working on the small final details) that I can occasionally pull the top skin of the drying paint off (leaving pockmarks and streaks). I have noticed this mostly in their metals. For me they are more work then they are worth (and in my experience the most difficult paints to get at the smaller brick and mortar stores I frequent and easily as expensive as the competition).

I have only experienced this effect with the VMC/VGC metallics. It also used to occur with the GW metallics frequently and is probably due to old stock on the shelves more than anything.

Keep in mind that I do not consider myself a pro or competition painter, I paint for the table top. I dont like to play bare metal or unfinished models so being able to get things finished quickly (and yet still presentable) is more important to me then having the jaw dropping paint jobs that sit in a glass case for display only. With this in mind I would agree that the Reaper Master Series paints are the best of all worlds (they will grow with your experience level better then any other brand). I am slowly transitioning to RMS as I run out of GW.

Thanks for this. Im definitely sold on RMS now. However, I feel that Malifaux allows the best of both worlds in terms of system and sculpts. Easy to paint and small model counts means that you can put the extra effort into painting and basing these crews and get to a game quickly enough. I do not like playing against an opponent who simply glues his minis to the bases... sometimes not even more than a torso.