Modular Malifaux Terrain Tiles

[Blank]

You've sparked my interest and I think this will be the route I take when making terrain. I fumbled with the decision of TerraClips or TerrainlinX. However, I like your idea of just axing the connector pieces of both types and making it all fit together.

So I have to ask. One, what did something like this cost you (approx.)? Would it be worth it for someone on a tight budget and limited storage space?

Thus, leading to the next question. After everything you've done, would you say your happy with the end result? Enough to do it again or would you recommend just going for something like TerraClips and be done with it quickly?

[Sholto]

Dude. That tea looks like it's for sissies. Nut up.

ps: terrain's cool, too.

That's not tea, it's liquid inspiration

You've sparked my interest and I think this will be the route I take when making terrain. I fumbled with the decision of TerraClips or TerrainlinX. However, I like your idea of just axing the connector pieces of both types and making it all fit together.

So I have to ask. One, what did something like this cost you (approx.)? Would it be worth it for someone on a tight budget and limited storage space?

Thus, leading to the next question. After everything you've done, would you say your happy with the end result? Enough to do it again or would you recommend just going for something like TerraClips and be done with it quickly?

Very happy. I am still working on it, and would do it again if I had to. I have done a few pieces that I will need to stick up pics of, including a double height piece with a brazier on top.

The nine cork tiles store very easily, obviously, and the remaining pieces are very light and can be stored in a box. This route is perfect if you are on a tight budget, I reckon. You will need to buy the Himmelveil Streets PDFs ($11), some A4 label paper (£2.50 for 50) and some black foamcore (A1 sheets for £4). You also need access to a good colour printer, as well as the usual tools for cutting the foamcore. You can use el cheapo knives, but a good cork-backed metal ruler and self-healing cutting mat are indispensible. Cheap PVA is all the glue you need, and lastly some cheap black markers for inking the cut edges.

The Terraclips sets look to be great value for money, but I reckon they will work alongside this, since they are both on a 3" or 6" grid system. Don't know about height, though - I guess we'll see. It would make sense for WWG to make them the same height as all the other WWG sets, so I hope they will be compatible in all dimensions.

Have you coated the base tiles with anything? I was thinking of using some photo protection varnish - although I guess it's easy enough to just print up a replacement.

The tiles are not coated, and I doubt I will bother. As you say, you can just reprint it and cover it up if need be.

I solved the ramp problem, by the way. Simple and effective. Pics to follow.

Edited September 6, 2010 by Sholto

[Doctor Warlock]

I've been really inspired by this thread, I the Himmelveil TerrainLinx Sets - I was thinking of going for a Sewer layout to be a bit different!

[Chev Chelios]

I'm going for the sewer set as well as the booster set.Just trying to figure out how I am going to mount it.

[Doctor Warlock]

I'm going for the sewer set as well as the booster set.Just trying to figure out how I am going to mount it.

Yea, I'm Wondering that too . . . .

[Blank]

I'm going for the sewer set as well as the booster set.Just trying to figure out how I am going to mount it.

I was also wondering this very same thing. I'll probably have to problem solve a little bit to figure out how to mount other pdf's other than just the streets.

Think it's easier if the terrain is in TLX format? I'd like to do something like the Hinterlands under the fantasy category.

[Chev Chelios]

I was also wondering this very same thing. I'll probably have to problem solve a little bit to figure out how to mount other pdf's other than just the streets.

Think it's easier if the terrain is in TLX format? I'd like to do something like the Hinterlands under the fantasy category.

I wouldn't think it would make any difference in the format.

I think the way they show to do it is way complicated and it depends on your trust in the clip system.I think if I can mount it on something heavy enough it should be fine.MDF maybe.Just have to cut it dead straight.

[Sholto]

@Chev - interesting you mention MDF. I was in B&Q at the weekend pricing some for V2 of this terrain. B&Q will cut the wood for you - 9 12" squares of 6mm MDF cut for £18.

I am planning on using MDF for V2 not because there is anything wrong with the cork tiles, but because I need the rigidity of MDF for the river sections I am designing.

[Chev Chelios]

The stores here will do the same.

I noticed something odd when I printed out a test sheet of the terrain.Its not 6 inches square.More like 5 3/4.Do you know what is up with that?

[ispep]

The stores here will do the same.

I noticed something odd when I printed out a test sheet of the terrain.Its not 6 inches square.More like 5 3/4.Do you know what is up with that?

I haven't used any of the print your own stuff, but I'd guess you need to play with the margins and/or print scaling options.

[Sholto]

The stores here will do the same.

I noticed something odd when I printed out a test sheet of the terrain.Its not 6 inches square.More like 5 3/4.Do you know what is up with that?

Yes. When printing your PDF, make sure you have scaling set to "None". By default most printers will scale the PDF to the page margins, but you need to turn this off to preserve the page size.

If you are still having trouble try the WWG forums - they have screeds of help on this sort of stuff, but mine print fine - 6" square exactly, with scaling turned off.

Sholto

[Chev Chelios]

Yes. When printing your PDF, make sure you have scaling set to "None". By default most printers will scale the PDF to the page margins, but you need to turn this off to preserve the page size.

If you are still having trouble try the WWG forums - they have screeds of help on this sort of stuff, but mine print fine - 6" square exactly, with scaling turned off.

Sholto

Cool. I'll try that.

[Sholto]

Here's an update photo - just about done now. New are the two 12"x12" raised sections in both corners. They have some support underneath to stop them sagging if I put a heavy building on them.

Found a much better way to stop models slipping on the ramps (sorry about the photo quality - my camera is dying and is overexposing everything).

I printed another copy of the ramp top onto card and cut out slices at 1" intervals, each slice 2/16" thick. Discard the thicker sections.

After inking the edges I simply glued the thin slices onto the ramp. The models catch on them easily and stay put, and it is almost impossible to tell the slices are there unless you get within about 6".

[Doctor Warlock]

Very VERY Clever!

How did you line the Balcony/Ramp Walls backs/fronts up?

Edited September 9, 2010 by Doctor Warlock

[Blank]

Amazing! When you first posted about the ramps, I was also thinking of a way to stop them from sliding down it.

Nicely done!

[Sholto]

How did you line the Balcony/Ramp Walls backs/fronts up?

I stick the outside on the foamcore, and then cut that out, but I don't yet cut out the indents in the top of the railings. Then I flip the foamcore over and stick the inside on, lining it up as best I can. Then I cut out the indents in the railings and ink the edges.

Best to use the 3" railing instead of the 6" railing, I find. The 6" railing has loads of the indents, and they are fiddlesome to cut out. Yes, it's a word The 3" railing only has two across the 6" width, so use them instead. You can see them on top of the 2 storey piece.

[leagionair]

this is a grate way to have terrain to work with in many senaros .i love the idea and you have done a grate job on making the terrain . cool man

[Sholto]

I put up a little demo of how the magnets work in practice - [ame]

[/ame]

[Doctor Warlock]

A-MAAAZING!

BUT - that music was SOOO annoying LoL!

[Sholto]

Lol! That music is deep-fried awesome

[Sholto]

I have played several games with this terrain, and decided it was time to expand the set a little. I found the bridges I already had were too low and cramped to feel like actual bridges, so I kitbashed some from the WWG set.

These have notches cut in the steps which lets the bridges (I made two) attach to any piece that has railings (which is most of them). Very flexible.

I also decided I wanted another one of the 6" square, two-storey tall structures, for balance. This one I made with a built-in set of steps and a permanently attached plaza at the foot of the steps.

Here they are:-

Edited December 2, 2010 by Sholto

[daemonkin]

@Sholto: Bloody amazing work there buddy. An inspiration and since you're in the UK you can hopefully provide some sources for your materials.... ;-)

D.

[The Green Git]

Wow... great work there. Question for you Sholto... what do you think about "Peel and Stick" cork tiles? Instead of printing on labels just print on regular paper and use the adhesive on the tile? Also on your bridges with steps v. ramps how big are the steps? Can't see it in the pic but will a base lip fit under the step above where the model is placed? Thanks in advance.

[Sholto]

@Daemonkin - sure. Some of the materials are specified in the first post (the cork tiles and WWG PDFs). I get the foamcore and PVA from Hobbycraft, and the snap-off blade utility knives I get five-in-a-pack from pound shops. The A4 label paper is from Ebay.

@TheGreenGit - the "peel and stick" tiles should work. My only concern would be that the tiles might only lie flat one way up, but not the other. If the edges curl up, but that is the side the adhesive is on, you have a problem.

You also have a slight lack of flexibility, since if you want to stick new PDFs down, you need glue (or label paper)

For the steps I used the 1.5" steps in the WWG PDF. Even with the 5mm foamcore this still leaves enough room for any normal base to fit under the step above, meaning the models can stand securely on all steps in the terrain set.

[The Green Git]

@TheGreenGit - the "peel and stick" tiles should work. My only concern would be that the tiles might only lie flat one way up, but not the other. If the edges curl up, but that is the side the adhesive is on, you have a problem.

Good point about the tile curling... guess I'll have to drag myself down to the Home Depot and lay hands on them to see. Thanks for the quick reply!