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goth

Terrain Board 3.0

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The first two tables of MalifauX terrain I made are long gone.  After recently completing a table of 28mm modern terrain, I’m ready to venture back through the breach with fresh perspectives.

One thing I knew I needed but didn’t have were modular forests, where you can relocate the trees as models move through... and terrain can change in MalifauX due to destructible terrain rules and overlapping terrain markers.

So here I go, using a 3’x3’ Shattered Soil Mats-by-Mars vinyl mat as a base.  This will be my WIP thread.

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I made ten trees, seven cacti, and eight man-sized punji-caltrop mounds.  For the bases shown below, I used a rubber wine cork to stamp flat circles in the wood filler where terrain features stand; what I initially made didn’t fit quite how I wanted into these slots.  I’m going to have to rework my method but I’ll use them later in the build.  The ill-fitting trees (25mm base with a washer glued to the bottom being wider than a wine cork) especially are no big deal because I eventually wanted both concealing and dense forest types so this just gives me a head start on my next wooded area.

  
  

Shown here:

2x Cactaur patch WIP, The bare wood filler on the would-be cacti bases will be sand soon.

2x spikey patch WIP (the ones shaped like feet)

2x wooded area WIP

1x WIP in the style I’m using for this entire project so far - just cardboard, where I seal the edges with painters tape, then add a support structure (PVA a popsicle stick or two).  The next step is to paint both sides with PVA to further seal and prevent warp)

  
Next up I’ll probably be making destructible scatter terrain.

 

 

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6 hours ago, lusciousmccabe said:

Looking good. Do the added stick help with warping?

Each of the four little hazard stands have one stick in them, the two larger tree stands each have two end-to-end sticks inside.  I think the real antiwarping magic comes from not letting unnecessary moisture (glue, filler, paint, etc) get into the exposed 3D corrugated structure of the edges by masking it with tape (stays straight rather than becoming a wavy peplum around the border of the terrain).  Before I add filler, I paint both sides of the cardboard base with PVA which is the usual anti-warping tech.  Heavy books and letting things fully dry before you add a new wet medium and reactivate the previous layer helps.

It is possible to tape the edges so tightly that they curl due to tape tension.  I usually go around with scissors and trim the blue tape so the terrain base’s edges are perfectly round and even, but didn’t bother on this one.

Edited by goth
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I figure the WIP base will be two crescent-shaped severe swamp edges around a small impassible pond.

After a consultation with the builds creative director (whom may or may not be a cat), we decided this build needed:

1.  Striking color story

2. Giant mushrooms, a faery ring of tiny mushrooms, and a third terrain piece to serve as a playground for the Widow Weaver and Bandersnatch.

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Initially this was going to be more of a “finished terrain showcase” but apparently it’s a WIP.  I mentioned before that everything gets painted with PVA... the taped edges got painted twice this time.  For drying, I stabbed 5 toothpicks into a failed terrain project and here it will remain suspended - I don’t see the point in painting one side at a time in PVA.  (Edit: I placed this on the stand upside-down so the visible bottom won’t have toothpick rip-away marks)  

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I’m thinking I’ll post only more finished WIP from now on but...

exhibit A is what I use to weigh things down with - some say it needs to be flat, I like the wiggly directional push-down a stack of paper can provide

exhibit B is two clusters of rocks WIP - one is decidedly DOUBLEDECKER

exhibit C is me deciding to do the same type of terrain but at 15mm scale... for reasons...

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Then the pressing pile was used to make a T-shaped popsicle stick structure over the tiny thin base/stand while the Upside-down hovering pond was given a second coat of PVA.  The rock stands are awaiting PVA seal.  Sometimes while making terrain, coordinating drying times is much like when you are playing command and conquer and you keep hearing unit ready training unit ready training unit ready training - just give them the time they need

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I decided to really test the boundaries of this technique with two weird WIP - one crescent shaped terrain base (sacred grove) that will be super taped, one spiral where I will put additional support.  Another photo of gratuitous amounts of Glue-All drying

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Two 20mm modern miniatures arrived in the mail and I decided to make a kind of cairn/cellar door as part of this terrain that ultimately leads down a staircase into a MalifauX basement/separate underground campaign adventure.  Fingers crossed on posting soon.

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I’ve painted the bottoms of mostly everything black.  I was able to quell a distraction uprising, however have three hideous test WIPs... a milk lake, added supports and glue to the sacred crescent grove, and trying to ensure my spiral stays 2-dimensional flat.

 

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To get the build back on track, I decided to make an abandoned watchtower outside the quarantine zone, covered in spider webs.  While letting the platforms dry I got super excited to make my own crates.  I made my own crates for the first time since I’ve been making things, to fit the handmadedness of everything.  They are hideous but I’ll make more that look better later... with these the idea is that you can destroy the HT 2 blocking impassible terrain without taking the footprint off the table, photos forthcoming.  I put away my dungeon room bases I started making and only have the entrance to the lair drying for continued work... I’ll post photos, it’s like a bunker entrance.  I crumbled some cork on the edge of the milk lake and depending on how it dries it may become a blood lake.

i just washed 20 pennies to use as bases for mushrooms and trees.

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Here are the HT 2 Blocking Impassible crates (could even be climbable) set aside with the “destroyed” HT 0 normal terrain in the base.

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these have yet to be primed.

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I can’t believe I’ve never built crates; I am fully aware of what a hot mess those first ones are.  I made a large crate as a test, with exaggeratedly flat supports - it turned out so well I have a new watchtower blueprint and am about to make some more smaller destructible scatter crate terrain out of card stock.

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Turns out that’s an awesome way to make watchtower bases, but flimsy... after making five more, I present my next five....

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I made five small misshapen crates, then decided to make three 2”x1” and two 1”x1” crates by actually drawing out the pattern so I can predictably cut things to a whole inch while making fasteners and cross beams.  These are muuuch cleaner looking and way stronger than my original 5 crates which I’m abandoning.

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Hopefully the carved up surfaces prime okay and don’t get fuzzy looking.  I’ll use Tamiya fine, but if details disappear I will rethink my approach.

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Here is the WIP of the milk lake, it turned into a rigid, ridged cardboard-colored lake and is still drying before I add more glue-all, spray blue gloss, and Tamiya clear red acrylic to make it a blood pond.  The little inserts will be separate blood puddles with reeds/swampiness.

tbh I’m not doing proper WIP step procedures, the photos suck, I’m like ugh I should photo this at this point I guess, you’re like ugh skip to the good stuff... so I’ll just start posting finished terrain here and it’ll save us both time and bing bang boop we’ll have a full table of terrain.

keep in mind this is an intentional trash build.  No purchased materials, glue-all instead of modpodge, no wash applied in painting step, no foam used, visual tricks so all terrain is super strong and light but no machines like printers or foam cutters/saws needed.  So far my cutting board has been a piece of industrial carpet on a paperback book on my lap.

Edit: the answer is scissors instead of an x-acto blade, I use those hair cutting scissors that come with every set of hair clippers.

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If anybody wants a set of crates, I would be super happy to mail a page of pre-cut templates you can fold, glue, spray, and paint.  After the 🍺 🦠 of course

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Experimenting with surfaces, and now paper crates.  When I spray, I will have three kinds of paint applied to five types of surfaces.  Some of those I used different tools to scribe or treat... though I haven’t done it yet I’ve learned how to color and then fold finished crates -

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I’ve been procrastinating spraying due to three days of terrible winds.  Since it’s the 10-day mark, I decided to gauge the footprint of the terrain pieces and was quite delighted to find myself at just over 25%.  Time for a building.

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This is Tile 1 of my MalifauX league dungeon, the entrance... since it’s an earthwork staircase it can be blocking terrain during normal games.

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