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Caedrus

2019 Monthly Painting Challenge - November

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Damn, i can't believe it's November already. Where did the time go?

Anyway, this month I'm planning to finish off the First Mate & Sammy, and paint up the last unit i have for my Guild (Kings Empire) TOS army - a squad of "Witchling Borderers".

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21 hours ago, Wintergloom said:

Just got back from the Malifaux UK Nationals where I won another Best Painted for my Urami crew :) Got an Army Painter brush set as well as trophy!

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Very well deserved, I got to see it personally and was amazing!

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Congrats winter. Those pics you posted of urami are some of my favorites. I have kirai's pic saved on my phone for when people are like 'your models look so good' and I'm just like 'no... These do'

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Caedrus, checking in!

So, with the exception of a few base touch-ups, and some water effects, my Myranda and Marcus are done!

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I'll be putting some washers under Myranda's base, to stop her tipping, and I think Marcus' scenic base could do with a touch more contrast before the water effects, but they're pretty dang close to done.

Congrats @Wintergloom for the Best Painted. Well deserved!

I hope everyone is having an awesome November!

Caedrus.

 

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Hello

I'm trying to come back to painting. I have been on this green guy to try something new:

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Anyone has a good tutorial on how to paint bottles?

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Hi @muraki and everyone!

I think that the competition is over, and the points have certainly been earned! My miniature (#19) was a half Waif, Half Molly! I'm calling her as 12SS. I hope that's a fair estimate!

I'd love to put some names to pieces, and ask questions! So: who did what? Claim your points!

Caedrus. 

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On 11/13/2019 at 4:36 PM, Franchute said:

Anyone has a good tutorial on how to paint bottles?

Experiment trying a metal paint; green should work fine. Mix the starting paint with bright silver or platinum metal  paint and layer (or drybrush) the bottle (in part) with the resulting paint. Repeat the process more times. Wash it all lightely to mask the metallic look.

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On 11/13/2019 at 1:29 PM, Caedrus said:

So, with the exception of a few base touch-ups, and some water effects, my Myranda and Marcus are done!

Great painting job and superb palette. I'm always positively impressed by red hair on female models, but your Miranda is perfect.

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Caedrus, immediately checking back in!

Since I have finished my Myranda and Marcus, I decided to see what miniatures I should paint next, to finish off some keywords.

Turns out that the answer is some Mounted Guard (not seen), three Family members (2 Monster Hunters, and a Latigo), and a Dispatcher (proxy, from Wild West Exodus).

Some building, priming, and they're ready for paint!

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Finishing a keyword goes against my instincts, which is to go "Ooh! Shiny! Must paint that miniature right now!"

Starting projects, and never quite finishing them, could well be called "Caedrusing"

Wish me luck!

Caedrus.

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7 hours ago, Caedrus said:

Caedrus, checking in!

So, purely for those who might be interested, I have a quick post of my Halloween entry process, just in case anyone was interested!

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The story behind the miniature wasn't done justice by my entry, which was this:

Crazed, undead woman (possibly a Doxy or a Belle) climbing out of the long-abandoned well. How'd she get in there? Well, the other bodies suggest it's not the well-owner's first time. How'd she get out? Revenge drove her to an undead state, wherein she chewed through her ankle manacle, and started climbing.

What Worked?

The resin pour worked wonderfully well. It turned out to be two pours, by the end. After lots of work with sandpaper, then car polish, then toothpaste, I got a nice, clean finish on the water effect. I was terrified doing the pour of resin. You can't fix anything after it's resined in!

The water-effects of the water drops worked well.

The Hirst Arts bricks turned out nicely, and the sculpted pumpkin, lantern, vines and knife worked well.

The half-Molly, half-Waif miniature worked well (I don't know why Molly is doing that little kick in her sculpt, but it worked here!)

Finally, I was happy with the lighting, which was aerosol can and drybrushing, mostly! I didn't have time to get airbrushing!

What Didn't Work?

The chewed off stump detail was lost, as was the foot itself, which compromised the entire story. Super annoyed about that.

I should have painted the underwater-component of the wall much lighter, to improve visibility in the resin.

I should have sculpted nicer bioluminescent mushrooms.

But, overall, this is my first time doing a piece like this. I've learned stuff, and had fun. That makes the whole event a win, for me.

Caedrus.

Amazing, love everything from your model!!

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14 hours ago, Caedrus said:

 

After lots of work with sandpaper, then car polish, then toothpaste, I got a nice, clean finish on the water effect.

can you share more info about this???

I think the lighting job of your entry was amazing, very brave and well executed,  
and the whole thing improves a lot in those bigger pics, where all the details can be appreciated.

 

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Hi Everyone!

I am faaaar from an expert on this, but if you're interested, here's my process!

The resin I used was a clear casting resin. The item is the one shown HERE. It is a *deep breath* 2% Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone-Peroxide-activated Styrene Monomer! However, and this is important, don't overthink it! Any clear resin should work. Your local hardware or craft store should have a similar two-part product. Often, the resin is used to create a glass-like finish on tables. Basically, Google 'clear resin', and you can't go too far wrong. I learned quite a bit from trial and (lots of) error, but if you watch a few of the excellent Luke Towan videos, you'll get a good idea.

Two things to remember: (1) Resin sticks to everything except rubber, and the sticky side of sticky tape, so one of those needs to be your lining for any mold; and (2) Resin, when curing, gets hot. Make sure that the resin is gently cooled. Around 20-30 degrees Celcius is ideal.

So, my process went:

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  1. Find a tube that was around the right diameter (early prototype pictured above). I was originally having a cool spiral of bricks, but that would have blocked the actual miniatures.
  2. Build up the brick formwork, flush against the plastic tube, but not glued to the base. Set that aside for further details and painting. I used the excellent Hirst Arts products.
  3. Make your base details.
  4. Work out your resin volume.
  5. Get a section of tube at least as long as your water depth.
  6. Line the tube with sticky tape (sticky side exposed to the core of the tube).
  7. Secure it to something flat with superglue. Then more superglue.
  8. Pray to the Gods of Not-Screwing-Up.
  9. Pour resin, put it in front of a gentle fan (because Australia is hot).
  10. Leave for 24 hours.
  11. Take off the formwork, and you're left with a cylinder of resin, that has a slightly irregular surface, and a big meniscus at the top.
  12. Sand the upper surface flat, and the area facing the camera as close as you can to a perfect curve. I used the following sandpaper grits based on what-I-could-find-in-my-shed.
    • I used 120 grit sandpaper; then
    • 600 grit sandpaper; then
    • 1200 grit sandpaper; then
    • Very fine car polish / scratch removal polish. I used THIS (rubbed in with an old t-shirt )but anything comparable should be fine (just as a side comment, this product is awesome for car scratches.  If you have a car, you need this stuff); then
    • Toothpaste.
  13. You can spend forever getting it perfect. Have a close look at the pictures above, and you will see some scratches in the surface. I got lazy.
  14. Paint the well (more information on that, later).
  15. Stick the water-cylinder in the well's base.
  16. Where the back of the water-cylinder meets the well, there'll be some gaps. Fill it with any liquid-water-effect. I used Vallejo's Still Water.
  17. Finally, any drips (coming down), or splashes (going up) can be made by coating clear fishing line (stolen from fishing friend), and coated with clear gel. I used Atelier Clear Gloss Gel.
  18. Let drips dry before adding a second coat, or they won't get enough oxygen, and they'll go milky (like some of this figure's drips from her dress).

Painting

When using aerosols, I used GW Grey Seer for all the lighting, except for the orange, where I used GW Wraithbone.

  1. I started with a black undercoat on the Hirst Arts well.
  2. I then did a gentle grey drybrush all over, just to pick out the detail.
  3. For all the Object Source Lighting, I used an aerosol undercoat to mark where the drybrushing should go.
  • I positioned the aerosol undercoat where the light source would be coming from, and varied the distance depending on the source (moonlight: far away; lantern: medium spray distance; bioluminescent fungi: a very quick blast from up close).
  • I would then drybrush over the undercoat, matching the drybrushing intensity to the aerosol spray intensity (I hope that makes sense).

The violet and indigo was done first, representing moonlight. That was followed by the lantern (orange), and then the fungi glow (green).

I made lots of mistakes along the way, but I learned a lot! I also had a blast doing it!

I hope that was at least a little interesting, and let me know if I can explain anything else!

I'd love to hear from our other Halloween painters about their techniques and ideas!

Caedrus.

 

 

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Hey there! let me show you three finished models from this month: the Peacekeeper, Jonathan Reichart and the Riotbreaker(the remaning models coming soon!)

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