Philip and the Nanny

[Fetid Strumpet]

1Ap drop scheme marker

0 take the lead on model and move just enough to be able to drop another marker.

1AP drop scheme marker.

[Ludvig]

Just now, Fetid Strumpet said:

1Ap drop scheme marker

0 take the lead on model and move just enough to be able to drop another marker.

1AP drop scheme marker.

No walk. Drop marker, move yourself by pushing Philip for a (0) and then interact again. 

[Fetid Strumpet]

I said that.

[Ludvig]

16 minutes ago, Fetid Strumpet said:

I said that.

Dear lord I'm confused. I quoted the wrong post.

 

[Ludvig]

@sakurazuka38 What Fetid said... And then what I said an accidentally quoted Fetid instead of you.  

[Skylifter-1000]

I think the point sakurazuka38 is making is that the Doxy needs to be moved before her target. But you can still just keep her 3 inches form Philip, drop scheme marker, move her almost in base contact, move philip forward diagonally so he is exactly 6 inches from the first scheme marker, then drop the second scheme marker. Right? I'll have to actually practice that on a table.

[Ludvig]

11 minutes ago, Skylifter-1000 said:

I think the point sakurazuka38 is making is that the Doxy needs to be moved before her target. But you can still just keep her 3 inches form Philip, drop scheme marker, move her almost in base contact, move philip forward diagonally so he is exactly 6 inches from the first scheme marker, then drop the second scheme marker. Right? I'll have to actually practice that on a table.

Exactly, she can be five or so inched away and place the marker to her side in the direction she is intendig to push Philip. Between the marker's oughly 1,1 inches and Philip having an even larger base you can confortably push him eight inches forward and still have the front edge of the marker well within 6" of the back end of Philip.

[sakurazuka38]

Got it!! thank you!

now I have to make a philip proxy since I own the metal Molly!

[Skylifter-1000]

15 hours ago, sakurazuka38 said:

Got it!! thank you!

now I have to make a philip proxy since I own the metal Molly!

Get her box and play the metal Molly as Spirit Molly and the plastic Molly as Horror Molly (like on the summoning cards...)

[Butch]

I'm so happy about this thread. I always struggled with Philip. And as he was the reason I started with Molly in the first place I idn't want to exchange him for another henchman.

 

What I still don't quite get is the "an errand for the master" upgrade.  When do you use it? And i'm still confused that you draw a card to get the condition and not to discard a card.

[Adran]

On 07/02/2018 at 9:24 AM, Skylifter-1000 said:

And that's what I was thinking when I wrote my comments further up - that maybe I'd use a Necropunk for the two markers, and then Philip would just sit there and nom them for 1 AP each, so that Necropunk would have moved their 6" leap but would have to stay within 6" of the immobile Philip for next turn's cards. And that sounded pretty terrible, even in a game like Ours. 

Now with that Doxy, I can absolutely see the use of it, as Philip moves quite a good bit with that (and the Doxy, too, at least on turn two). Still situationally useful, but useful. 

The Kirai engine can be tuned to get 4-6 spare scheme markers down in the first turn if you want, meaning that you may not need to leave anything else near Philip for those cards. And sometimes Philip being left at the back is handy. His ability to get rid of enemy scheme markers made a lot of schemes a lot harder to do so even just not doing anything, he is doing things. 

EDIT - Butch - My Little helper is an upgrade I'd put on a model that has a (0) action I want to use twice. You have to decide in the initiative phase of the turn that you are going o activate it, so it needs forward planning, but it does let you draw the card. 

[Paddywhack]

3 hours ago, Adran said:

EDIT - Butch - My Little helper is an upgrade I'd put on a model that has a (0) action I want to use twice. You have to decide in the initiative phase of the turn that you are going o activate it, so it needs forward planning, but it does let you draw the card. 

Or sometimes I put it on a model I want to be aggressive with, but want to protect from attack (mostly) for a turn. A Rogue Necro is a huge glass cannon, but with Dark Protection up for a turn, enemies can't target him unless they are within 3" of him already. This is great and will stop other models from charging, shooting, or casting at him from a distance. They have to decide if they move closer and let the RN get a charge on something or hang back for another turn.

If you have two big models at the front of your crew both with Dark Protection up, it can really mess up an opponent's turn.  

[Frollo the Wordbearer]

4 hours ago, Paddywhack said:

Or sometimes I put it on a model I want to be aggressive with, but want to protect from attack (mostly) for a turn. A Rogue Necro is a huge glass cannon, but with Dark Protection up for a turn, enemies can't target him unless they are within 3" of him already. This is great and will stop other models from charging, shooting, or casting at him from a distance. They have to decide if they move closer and let the RN get a charge on something or hang back for another turn.

If you have two big models at the front of your crew both with Dark Protection up, it can really mess up an opponent's turn.  

I used the aggressive dark protection too, usually on the errated Dead Rider as I think he can get the most out of it: immunity from distance early in a hot turn (tipically on t2 when he's still fragile) and a potential fourth attack (fifth when Fast from Nico).

It works quite good, actually. 

[Skylifter-1000]

1 hour ago, Frollo the Wordbearer said:

I used the aggressive dark protection too, usually on the errated Dead Rider as I think he can get the most out of it: immunity from distance early in a hot turn (tipically on t2 when he's still fragile) and a potential fourth attack (fifth when Fast from Nico).

It works quite good, actually. 

I only tried that once yet, but didn't get more out of it than the protection - but I'll probably use that more frequently, as even then it is still good. 

[mojopin]

Going back to phillip, even with the doxie trick, youll get full 4 cards cycle the first turn using 14 ss and leaving the doxie behind. Next turns phillip can still do two things well: cardcycling standing still and consuming his AP and other models APs and eating enemy scheme markers if properly positioned. 

Seems a high price to me unless that card cycling will grant you more quality APs via summoning. Also if those high cards can eliminate enemy APs with your elite alpha attack. Or playing OURS where siiting in a quarter helps gaining VP. 

[Ludvig]

32 minutes ago, mojopin said:

Going back to phillip, even with the doxie trick, youll get full 4 cards cycle the first turn using 14 ss and leaving the doxie behind. Next turns phillip can still do two things well: cardcycling standing still and consuming his AP and other models APs and eating enemy scheme markers if properly positioned. 

Seems a high price to me unless that card cycling will grant you more quality APs via summoning. Also if those high cards can eliminate enemy APs with your elite alpha attack. Or playing OURS where siiting in a quarter helps gaining VP. 

It usually leads to a good ap swing by both summoning and still having an aweome hand to kill something dead turn 1 and or 2. After turn 2 Philip is a very good counter-schemer since he can (0) to remove two enemy markers for a measly 4 of crows or settle for one marker if you can't spare the suit. That play works nicely with going late and being pretty cautious with his positioning. As an opponent I find the fact that he can gain advantages from my markers a bigger pain than if he puts up chatty early and walks to an exposed position to make it count.

The doxies screw enemy positioning qhile potentially debuffing. If we assume one of the massive summoning engines like Niko the enemy is likely to try and get at your key models so the 10" range is usually enough to mess with their forward elements turn 2 while dropping markers for Philip again. If they don't go aggressive you can, summon in peace and walk all over them turn 3. 

Not sure you would take this in a non-summoning crew but many models have certain conditions making them good and others making them less so. Maybe if Philip could be certain to do some scheme while also denying the no-brainer pick for your opponent.