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6 hours ago, Mister Feral said:

Great work on Asumi's crew! Will you be adding anymore to this crew?

Oh yes, I have all of the TT and Oni released to this date.  Obsidian Oni, Jorogumo and the last two Yokai are all in progress.  Ama and the Tengu were finished long ago, but aren't up to standards to have pics posted.  Once I upgrade their paint jobs a bit I'll post them as well.

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On 7/7/2016 at 8:49 AM, haychdee said:

Nice work all round!

Love seeing some conversions coming through in Malifaux.

The trapper looks good but to me her right upper arm (pictures left) looks a tad too long. Might just be the perspective though.

Keep up the good work

hd

 

I think you're right, the bicep and shoulder are proportioned incorrectly.

Overall though, amazing work. Dealing with conversions of miniatures this fiddly is a real achievement. The work you did on the avatar of dread is really good. I could quibble about the pose, but it is what it is. You were replicating a model that looks like that, and well done sir.

If you try to do more resculpts like the sniper, I'd recommend a thinner gauge of wire. Looks like you use a paperclip. Use brass rod of about half that diameter, and resculpts like that should be less of a struggle.

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58 minutes ago, ringsnake said:

If you try to do more resculpts like the sniper, I'd recommend a thinner gauge of wire. Looks like you use a paperclip. Use brass rod of about half that diameter, and resculpts like that should be less of a struggle.

Thanks for the tip, but I don't understand what difference the gauge would make.  Can you elaborate?

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Just now, MrDeathTrout said:

Thanks for the tip, but I don't understand what difference the gauge would make.  Can you elaborate?

If I work with a thinner brass rod, it's easier to reposition or cut down when it doesn't work quite right. I can also work up in layers of green stuff, and have more of the resculpt under my control. When I use thicker wire, I end up wtih a thin sheet of green stuff that doesn't give me as much freedom to go deep or cut away. I just feel like there's more room to work when less of a limb is wire.

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Just now, ringsnake said:

If I work with a thinner brass rod, it's easier to reposition or cut down when it doesn't work quite right. I can also work up in layers of green stuff, and have more of the resculpt under my control. When I use thicker wire, I end up wtih a thin sheet of green stuff that doesn't give me as much freedom to go deep or cut away. I just feel like there's more room to work when less of a limb is wire.

Thanks for the advice.  I can use all I can get with green stuff. :)

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lola  and the Yokai done.

 

DarkCarnival-Lola-001a.JPG

Oni-Yokai-001a.JPG

I was asked how I painted the Yokai so while I'm not  I'm not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure:

The fur was based coated with Vallejo Game Color Bone White (BW), gave it several very light washes with GW Agrax Earhshade (AE), probably with a tiny bit of GW Nuln Oil mixed in.  I often find pure AE is a bit too brown to shade some colors and just a bit of black will tone it down.  Then I highlighted with more BW, more highlights with a mix of BW and white, then more highlighting with just pure white.  Normally I am very sparing with pure white for highlights, but I wanted these guys to be very pale especially the face.  I wanted a skull-like look, so I went heavier than usual.  That is also why I used a very dark gray (Vallejo Game Color Heavy Charcoal) around the eyes with a stark transition rather than smooth to give the skull like look.

The Reds (kama handles, loing clothes, eyes and mouths) are all done the same way and very simple.  Were base coated with red.  I don't remember the exact color, but it was what most would consider a pure red or close to it then washed with GW Agrax Earhshade (AE) and then highlighed with the base color to clean it up a bit.

The Armor - See the Brown Bits technique on the first post of this thread.

The metal was very simple.  I base coated with Vallejo Game Color Heavy Charcoal then covered as much as I could reach with graphite using a dull pencil.  I do this once before and once after coating the model with Testor's Dull Coat.

Mouths/Teeth - See the Toothy Maw technique on the first post of this thread.

You migh also want to check out the General Tips in the first post of the thread. :)

 

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19 hours ago, Burnin' Coal said:

Great work on Hannah ! :)...you've made it original whilst retaining the feel of the old model...not an easy task...it almost looks more steampunk than the original...maybe a few pipes and pistons on the new arms ? 

Thanks! I considered more pipes, but I didn't like how they looked in any of the places I tried to put them.  Moot point now, painting is almost complete and unless I hear an AMAZING idea I'm not going back to the build stage. :)

 

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1 hour ago, MrDeathTrout said:

Thanks! I considered more pipes, but I didn't like how they looked in any of the places I tried to put them.  Moot point now, painting is almost complete and unless I hear an AMAZING idea I'm not going back to the build stage. :)

 

Quite right too :) ....I look forward to seeing it finished

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On 9/13/2016 at 1:56 AM, Mister Feral said:

Great work on Asumi's crew! Will you be adding anymore to this crew?

Thanks.  Yes, eventually I plan on having all of the Oni painted.  And probably a second set of Yokai assuming then come out in a separate box eventually.  I have some already painted (Ama), but not to a standard that is worth taking a picture of.  I painted her before I started this project to make everything photo quality so I still need to go back and clean her up a a bit.

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My new carrying case. I had a bit of buyers remorse right after I ordered it ($150 US), but I really like it.  It makes carrying odly shaped or big miniature easy.  It's very flexible.  It has slot for a shelf about ever half inch.

It comes with the drawer in the bottom and two shelf "frames".  You need to purchase modular trays for the minis to sit on in the shelves as add-ons.  There are various magnetized and non-magnetized options.  I used some 1/4" plywood and glued some sheet metal it.  Then used a table saw to cut out the selves I'm using.  They are covered in paper towels to prevent metal-to-metal contact with the magnets.  I'll coat them something or cover then with fabric at some point.

They come in 3 sizes (full, half and mini), this one is half.  Check them out here if you are interested.   Tell them MrDeathTrout sent you and they'll say "Who the heck is MrDeathTrout and why would I care?"

 

TableWarBox-001a.JPG

TableWarBox-001b.JPG

 

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Most of the Rasputina Translucent Blue box is done.  Finally.  This set has been sitting on the shelf for quite some time.  I bought this box when it was first released (four years ago, I think).  I wasn't sure how to paint the translucent plastic.  I didn't like how it looked just naked, so it sat for a LONG time.

Anyway  I finally decided to try oil paint since they are more translucent than the acrylics I usually use.

I washed them in dark blue and oil washes and highlighted with a little bit of titanium white oil paint.  The implements carried by the gamin are also painted with titanium white oil paint.  Without any paint they just look like shiny blue blobs.

The Golem also has a coating of matte spray.  Without it, it was just too shiny you you couldn't see any of the detail.  I haven't deiced if I'm going to coat the gamin yet, being smaller they don't see to have as much of an issue with the shiny.

I didn't want to use the Guild Guard for the Wendigo so I created his left hand and foot from green stuff.  I thought I did a pretty good job until I started painting.  UGG!  I'll do better next time. :)

I haven't painted Rasputina yet.  I'm not a huge fan of the trans material on figures that would be translucent.  It's a lot harder to see what you are doing to fill gaps and such with green stuff so I figure I'll get the Vintage Rasputina and not worry about painting this on up.

 

December-IceGolem-001a.JPG

 

December-Crew-001a.JPG

 

December-Crew-001b.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

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