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Pourous and not pourous paints? - need advice from experts


nunorod
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This one is a bit directed to the pros, but If you have experience with it plz do tell. 

I always thin my paints, and always give some 2 to 3 layers to cover a base color. But i have realized that some colors stay more pourous then others. I guess it has to do with the paint and color itself. Those colors get too shiny and non pourous so dont absorv the next layer or glaze perfectly. Its really frustrating because I try to do precise glazes but the paint just runs and doesn't stick to the previous layer. 

Is there something im missing? Or is it just a matter of colors? Do you give any special coat? Along time ago i used diluted putty to paint the whole mini and it kind of worked but the puttys now are hard to dilute (used to do it with acetone). Is it just a layer of Matte spray?

Have you come to this issue?

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Which type of paint are you using, acrylic or otherwise, and what are you using to thin it?

For example, if I get out my old GW inks (I mean, really old GW inks, from the days that GW sold an ink paint set and had $8 blister packs...) and paint those undiluted on the model, that paint dries a glossy metallic color which resembles the ink found in pens.

Edited by solkan
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Im using vallejo. I thin it with a mix of water and flow or just distilled water. 

Deck Tan for instances, when i painted thin layers on a model it got a bit "shiny" and plastiquy, not pourous. It feels like it doesnt absorb the next layers of paint very well. With other colors sometimes the paint remains "matte" and feels more pourous, like it could absorb more layers

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've also noticed it. Yellows are colors that comes to mind that generally have a slightly glossy finish and make inks run more. Didn't even keep record or anything, but it seems to me that is something that happens across all brands, it is not brand or line dependant. But it's just a memory/feeling thing, I have no statistics :)

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Some "dirty" whites also have that effect, as some greys, etc.

My suspicion is that it's something on the properties of the colors, so some yellows will tend to do that, etc.

So now the thing is... how to correct that. is it thinner paint and more layers? Because it really is frustrating to try and do a detail and the paint just won't stick or absorb.

 

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One thing to point out, since you're mentioning Vallejo Model Color specifically (Deck Tan is one of my favorite colors) is that they are very thick paints and tend to separate and require a LOT of shaking. I have a glass bead as an agitator in all my paint bottles regardless of brand, but it really makes a difference with the VMC paints.

 

The glossiness and porosity you're talking about make it seem like you're brushing on more of the paint binder separated out than you actually are of mixed pigment/binder itself.

 

As for thinning, it really depends on brand, but for even applications of VMC I usually use 1:2 paint thinner for basecoats (I have distilled water, Liquitex Slow-Dri, and acrylic medium in my thinner) and it goes on with reasonably solid coverage. GW, Reaper, P3 - I adjust my thinning for all of those. 

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