WouterR Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Amazing work you did there I can't wait to see your next work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klatschi Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Really astonishing work, I applaude your perseverance of creating that much cobblestones and cardboard tiles. I am building a table, too, at the moment, but I originally just wanted to do tiles - now I am intrigued to copy your method of producing cobble stones. It really looks great. Can't wait to see more houses, too. Great work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavicusPrime Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 KrazyIvan: Anyway, All tiles have been sealed and counter warped so that they lay flat. I have been having a horrible time reducing warping on my terrain pieces. What were your methods for "Counter Warping" your boards? The way I've had the most success has been gluing multiple layers of 3mm hardboard together. 2 Works, but I often end up using 3. -DavicusPrime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted April 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 On 2/5/2016 at 9:43 AM, DavicusPrime said: KrazyIvan: Anyway, All tiles have been sealed and counter warped so that they lay flat. I have been having a horrible time reducing warping on my terrain pieces. What were your methods for "Counter Warping" your boards? The way I've had the most success has been gluing multiple layers of 3mm hardboard together. 2 Works, but I often end up using 3. -DavicusPrime MDF will warp the very time you cover it with anything water based (including acrylic paint). The trick to use that to your advantage. In my case I doubled up the MDF. When I applied an acrylic sealer to one side the boards warped towards that side. Once dry I applied sealer to the other side and boards warped the direct an equal amount, which resulted in boards that lay flat. This worked because while MDF is super absorbent, the absorption seems very shallow, so it's only the the surface that is really warping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted April 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 I got some buildings in the works, and have started planning the portable table that these frames sit in for a game... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lusciousmccabe Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 Great work as usual. Really like the purple and green colouring dappling on the flagstones, gives them a good limestone kind of finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted April 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2016 Mobile table top is nearing completion!Mobile Table 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddywhack Posted April 25, 2016 Report Share Posted April 25, 2016 Where did those buildings come from, if I may ask? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted April 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 The smaller ones are from a Ruined Hamlet set by Warlord Games. The larger one is part of a Gothic Ruins set from Pegasus Hobbies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armond Posted May 6, 2016 Report Share Posted May 6, 2016 This stuff is truly inspiring. Question, maybe I missed the answer, how did you get the board's cut out the way you wanted them to be? Very nice work though. I need to do something like it. I was considering something similar, but adhering felt or rubberized mat to the bottom to prevent movement on a table. I know you are doing what looks to be a carrier, but have you placed these on a tabletop and noticed slippage or does the sealant provide a kind of grip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 On 5/6/2016 at 10:38 PM, Armond said: This stuff is truly inspiring. Question, maybe I missed the answer, how did you get the board's cut out the way you wanted them to be? Very nice work though. I need to do something like it. I was considering something similar, but adhering felt or rubberized mat to the bottom to prevent movement on a table. I know you are doing what looks to be a carrier, but have you placed these on a tabletop and noticed slippage or does the sealant provide a kind of grip? I designed the table in a 3d design program called Sketchup, and then used that digital model to create templates for a laser cutter. I sent the templates to a local shop and had them cut table pieces out of MDF for me on their laser cutter. One of the reasons that I am using the frame is to stop them from slipping around because the absolutely will move. I have been considering putting something on the bottom of the boards so that I can use them without slippage outside the frame. I've been mostly thinking about using aerosol rubber for that task. The pat of least resistance, I think, ould be to use self adhesive rubber feet however. Now, on to some more progress pics. Here we have several pieces of rubble that I will be using as severe terrain. Then we have the based buildings on the board. This give a pretty good idea about the amount over coverage I have, though I am still going to add a few things. I need to build a ruined fountain, gazebo, or statue for the tiles with the ring. I'm going to add several lengths of ruined walls and/or fencing. Ladders and gangplanks are are going to be built. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armond Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 I will be keeping an eye on this as it develops! You actually have me ready to try and get a 3x3 board put together. One that folds like yours! I just have to figure out how I am going to accomplish it. But first I have to get home from my deployment, then I can really get down and dirty with the terrain bug I am having! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted May 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 More progress. Basing is done on all of the buildings. Next I need to finish removing mold lines and gap fill, then on to greeblies. Hopefully I will be able to start painting these in earnest next weekend. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armond Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Just anted to let you know it was your fault I ordered two sets of the Hamlet Ruins from Bolt Action, the Plast Craft Malifaux Graveyard set, and some stone walls to start me off on my own table. Hurry up and get more done! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted May 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 23 hours ago, Armond said: Just anted to let you know it was your fault I ordered two sets of the Hamlet Ruins from Bolt Action, the Plast Craft Malifaux Graveyard set, and some stone walls to start me off on my own table. Hurry up and get more done! Buildings are in the final stages of being greeblied now. I'm hoping to get them in paint over the weekend. That said there is still sooooooooo much more to do. The project that never ends! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armond Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 I gotcha, I am sure I will feel the same way once I get started on my own stuff! Keep it up! There is always light at the end of the tunnel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted May 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2016 ONE DOWN! The first building for my board is done (sans sealing). This is half a Pegasus Hobbies Gothic Ruins set. The model was primed black then pre-highlighting was applied with Vallejo Grey primer sprayed through an airbrush. The entire thing was then airbrushed with a translucent dark gray, followed by Army Painter Uniform Gray sprayed on at a 45 degree angle, then Ash Gray at 75-ish degree angle. The final sprayed on highlight was pure white at a 90 degree angle. Strong Tone wash was then applied liberally to the entire model, heavier in areas where moisture was likely to gather and near the ground. Sharp contract highlights were applied with a brush. The rubble is the same formula as the walls, except that everything was drybrushed on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted May 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 Lots of progress on the ruined city board today. All buildings have been primed, then the stone work was base coated and highlighted. Finally I started the shingles on the buildings that still have roofs. The process for the stone work was black under coat, dark grey base coat (Creatix Dark Grey), medium grey highlight sprayed on at a 45 degree angle (Army Painter Uniform Grey), light grey highlight sprayed on at a ~80 degree angle (Army Painter Ash Grey) and finally a near white highlight sprayed on at a ~90 degree angle (Vallejo Grey Primer and Creatix White). The tiles were pre-shaded, then I applied dark grey with a sponge to get a "rain spattered" look. Finally the main color was applied. This is all WIP. Lots more to do tomorrow. Total time for what you see here was 3 hours. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted May 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 I always mean to paint things in an assembly line, but eventually I can't help but grab one model and finish it. Here is the first "finish" ruined house. I have "finished" in quotes because this building will getting some ivy vines and grass tufts once my order from Scenic Express arrives. Then the whole model will be sealed. I'm actually torn a little bit on the stonework. Part of me wants to gloss coat this thing then apply a dark wash to the exposed stonework, but the other part likes the highlighting how it is, and how there is a clear delineation between the building and the ground. I'm afraid if I darken the building with a wash it will all just blend together. Also, washing this thing then using a q-tip to pull the wash from the high points will take more time than I am really looking to spend on this. Anyway, here are pictures: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armond Posted June 3, 2016 Report Share Posted June 3, 2016 Awesome stuff!!! I cannot wait to see it all complete! Got me all amped! I just got informed that my buddy received my shipment of terrain(since I am not home to receive it). I will open up a PLOG or something once I get back to the island. Keep it up! I assume you are using an airbrush? Don't be surprised if I snatch some of your techniques/color choices! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lusciousmccabe Posted June 3, 2016 Report Share Posted June 3, 2016 On 6/1/2016 at 0:41 AM, KrazyIvan said: I always mean to paint things in an assembly line, but eventually I can't help but grab one model and finish it. Here is the first "finish" ruined house. I have "finished" in quotes because this building will getting some ivy vines and grass tufts once my order from Scenic Express arrives. Then the whole model will be sealed. It's probably a good idea because you know for certain what the end result will look like and won't have to worry about fixing mistake on a bunch of buildings after a layer of paint dries different to how you'd like. On 6/1/2016 at 0:41 AM, KrazyIvan said: I'm actually torn a little bit on the stonework. Part of me wants to gloss coat this thing then apply a dark wash to the exposed stonework, but the other part likes the highlighting how it is, and how there is a clear delineation between the building and the ground. I'm afraid if I darken the building with a wash it will all just blend together. Also, washing this thing then using a q-tip to pull the wash from the high points will take more time than I am really looking to spend on this. If you're happy with how it looks I see no reason to add a wash. You've already got a shading gradient from the top to the bottom and the crevices are big enough to be obvious without a wash. Plus, as you said shading building like that takes forever and doesn't necessarily improve the overall look a whole lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted June 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 17 hours ago, Armond said: Awesome stuff!!! I cannot wait to see it all complete! Got me all amped! I just got informed that my buddy received my shipment of terrain(since I am not home to receive it). I will open up a PLOG or something once I get back to the island. Keep it up! I assume you are using an airbrush? Don't be surprised if I snatch some of your techniques/color choices! Indeed, I have made extensive use of an airbrush on the buildings. There is not other way to get the gradient I wanted in a short period of time. I didn't up using it too much for the plaster patches though. For the stone work everything was airbrushed: Prime with Vallejo Black Primer Base coat with Creatix Translucent Dark Grey First highlight Army Painter Uniform Grey sprayed on at at a 45-60 degree angle Second highlight Army Painter Ash Grey sprayed on at a 75-85 degree angle (less paint than the first highlight) Final highlight Creatix Opaque White sprayed on at a 85-90 degree angle (less pain than the second highlight) The plaster was mostly hand painted: Base with a leather color from P3 (I transferred the paint from it's original pot to a dropper bottle long ago I don't remember the color name) Feather on Army Painter Skeleton Bone, leaving the prior color exposed at the edges (thin paint so that the original color shows through a bit in places) Feather on Army Painter White, leaving the prior two colors exposed at the edges (thin paint so that the original colors show through a bit) Lightly airbrush Army Painter Soft tone Wash around the perimeter of the plaster patches to smooth out the color transition The wooden sections used the colors as the plaster, specifically to help tie everything together: Base with my P3 leather color Heavily apply Army Painter Soft Tone Wash Drybrush Army Painter Skeleton Bone Lightly drybrush Army Painter White The base is basically the same colors are the walls, but toned down a little. It's all airbrush and drybrush: Airbrush Secret Weapon Heavy Body Black Wash everywhere Airbrush base Creatix Translucent Dark Grey Drybrush Army Painter Uniform Grey every-freaking-where Drybrush Army Painter Ash Grey everywhere, but heavier on the rubble piles Lightly drybrush Army Painter White on on the rubble piles Airbrush Army Painter Strong Tone at the point where the base meets the wall, then up the wall a bit, to give an indication of dust and/or moisture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrazyIvan Posted June 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 The painting portion of my ruined city buildings is now complete. All that is left to do on them is add vegetation and varnish them. For vegetation I have some ivy vines, grass tufts, and bramble bushes by Silflor coming from Scenic Express. For now here are the painted buildings, with models for size comparison purposes. Please let me know what you think! And here is the entire collection thus far, minus the city boards themselves. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armond Posted June 5, 2016 Report Share Posted June 5, 2016 Yessss, yesssss!!!! Crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentation of their women!!! Uhhhh, I mean, wonderful job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underworld king Posted June 8, 2016 Report Share Posted June 8, 2016 The very ruined plastic buildings.. where are they from?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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