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Found 9 results

  1. I stopped working on this about 3 years ago but a friend of mine started making his own table so I'm getting back into the game and need to finish this. Probably need to make a few more walk ways and then make some fog banks using Polyfil that will count as dense w/o movement penalty. I just started adding moss today and have alot more to do. Any and all feedback and criticism welcome!
  2. Heya all, just wondering if anyone has seen these Sewers tiles yet? They are 3"x3" and 2" in height and fit Malifaux miniatures perfectly.
  3. Here's a 3d printable terrain system thats sized for Malifaux incase any of you are interested. https://www.facebook.com/rocketpiggames?pnref=story Its in 3x3 sized pieces with 2 inch high walls. The first lineup will be Dungeons, Caverns and Sewers. There will be a gothic victorian city later in 2017
  4. Hello, all. I am seeking suggestions for modular terrain sets. I am currently looking at Streets, Buildings, and Sewers of Malifaux sets but was curious if there are any similar products?
  5. Here are some pics of a swamp board I made and have been using. I wanted something modular, so it can be re-arranged for more playability, so it's nine pieces each one foot square. The basic design follows a step-by-step for a swamp board in an old issue of Ancible magazine -- I could track it down if anyone is interested. It works pretty well. If I was going to do it again (which I'm not! So, really, for anyone else who is interested in making something like this), I'd make it with more solid ground and less swamp: not because there's too much height-zero, severe terrain (I think that's a fine thing to have, you just have to make sure everyone knows in advance so they can pick a crew with it in mind), but because there isn't really enough room to put as much blocking and/or scatter terrain down as I would like to have. Any questions welcome. EDIT: The instructions I followed were in The Ancible Issue #8, in an article by Pat Ohta of Senji Studios. Senji Studio's website suggests downloading that issue here: http://www.senjistudios.com/4x4-swamp-board-tutorial-for-malifaux-or-warmachine.html for the modest price of $1.51 (currently). Pat's board is less modular, and much prettier.
  6. I have decided to start working in my own Malifaux table; it’s going to be a long and hard way, so I’m going to be updating this thread by stages. Also, I want that this thread can be useful for others that (like me,) never have approached to a project like this, so i’m in full-disclosure mode about the costs and the technics! (This thread has adopted the international system of units; be aware, burmans). 1.- Planification. (I've already have finished this stage, so i'm going a little fast trough it.) One of the things that I had to have in mind when I started with design of the table was that it had to be easy to transport so I could carry it from my house to clubs and stores. I first considered making something foldable, but I wanted to be able to work vertically, so I went with the modular option; four modules of 45x45 that can become a 90x90 table. It wasn't a big surface but I wanted that everything looks solid, so I thought that having some wood connections (btw, i’m not sure about how you call them; we use the words “pernos” or "espigas") on two sides of every module was going to be a good thing. This was my first concept: With that in mind, I started to think in the structure of the modules; for what I saw, the b€st solution was MDF for the wood and polystyrene for the filling. I needed to make something like this (side view): I went to some stores and check prices for some strips and boards; all the wood would have cost me around 15 € but I was going to also need lots of tools, so before buying it, I went to a local carpenter, show him my sketch and asked him how much would cost me. He told me that he will make me all the wood work for 40 €, so I took the easy way even if was a little more expensive. I also use the trip to get some polystyrene boards for 5 €; I bought much more that I needed because I wanted to be able to make some experiments before start with the real board. With the modules here, I started to work and filled the gaps with the polystyrene (btw, I cut the boards with a cutter and wasn't the best choice). The next (and the last) thing I have done was start with the planning; I've drawn every single deployment and strategy/scheme location so I can be aware while i'm creating the terrain. The objetive is make a table that can be played nice from every side so I don't get bored of it too soon Right now, it looks like this: 2.- Theme. (...)
  7. Being a person of vast imagination, average skills, and no time/money; when the need to build a modular table arose I needed a solution that would be both cost effective and time saving. This is what I found: (more details here http://montmarte.net/product/view/m-m-canvas-panels-pkt-2-30-5x30-5cm ) These come in a range of sizes but for my gaming table 3 feet x 3 feet. I’ll be using a set of 30.5 x 30.5cm which cost $2 each; $18 total. Preparing the boards Cutting the canvas and peeling them off reveals a hard cardboard surface. The adhesive used to glue the canvas leaves a slight fuzzy surface to the board, but this won’t cause us any issues as we’ll be sealing and covering the surface with terrain. After removal vs before removal There is some slight variation in the sizes of the boards > 1mm so some slight trimming may be required. Next up, sealing the boards and planning the layout.
  8. So... We had our monthly big Malifaux Battlefest coming up in our game club. So I figured I'd do something special this time for the guys and keep it a secret until it was time to duke it out. This was a 3 night project. One night to cut the foam (Pink foam) and cut inlays like the precipice and where puddles would be located. Another night to sculpt/basecoat and add textures, and a final night for the painting, resins, flocking and whatnot. And here it is. Each tile measures 1 feet. We used some of the little finished other terrain pieces we had and most of the WIP terrain. but for three nights after work, it was a good surprise i'd say. I think I'm going to go next time with something I can cut in a more exact way, like wood for the bases of the tiles. I liked the idea, but it is hard not to cut at an angle with the foam, and made the fitting kind of iffy. This was colored with leftover housepaint, and Oil colors and washes, which are unexpensive, and strangely unused for terrain methinks. Resin is just tinted clear resin left to puddle. so, what do you think? like?
  9. I was going to simply use some O gauge train track for our games, but it just didn't feel right. So, I started making my own modular train track terrain from scratch. I have a tutorial on how I'm making it here. Enjoy!
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