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Found 4 results

  1. From the album: Storage

    My custom built storage solution for my models
  2. I am a huge proponent for magnetizing bases and metal tool boxes (magnets are way cooler than foam any day). So are the majority of my gaming group. Those that weren't are converting, and the new people are being indoctrinated (I would be wringing my hands here and cackling but I am in public and need my hands to type). Since I seem to be the only one of us who bothered to measure and order appropriate sized magnets, it fell to me to be the supplier. In order to ensure everyone gets the right ammount of each size, I was going to put this dissertation on our facebook page. Then I figured that the rest of the community would probably benefit from this as well, so I should share. So without further ado, how I magnetize my bases based on actual measurments (ie: me sitting in my basement with a lap full of bases and a caliper while listening to old irish drinking songs). The first step is figuring out what bases you have. There are two versions of the 40 and 50 mm bases and three versions of the 30mm (in my collection at least). As far as I can tell, the bases switched between V1 and V2 somewhere around books 3 and 4. V3 30mm came out with the new M2E plastic kits. The simplest way to determint what you have is to look for the Wyrd logo stamped in the plastic. Early bases did not have this. The below diagram shows what each looks like. Now for the actual measurements... (disclaimer: my caliper measures in inches, I will make some metric conversions later) 30mm depths: V1= 0.09", V2 and V3 are 1/16" 40mm depths: V1= 1/16", V2 = 0.1" 50mm depths: V1= 1/8", V2=0.1" The internal width of the center strip on all the V1 bases and the V2 30mm is 0.1" wide. On the V2 40mm and 50mm it is 1/8". The small circles on the 50mm bases have an internal diameter of 0.1" for V1 and 1/8" for V2 The large circle on the V3 30mm is 0.36" internal diameter, and 0.44" outer. The tiny circles on the V2 bases are too small to be useful, so I didn't measure them. Next lets talk about the magnets. If you just want a list of what I use, skip to the bottom. I'm going to explain how I got where I am now to help you avoid the mistakes I made, and maybe you will come up with solutions I missed. When I stared I only had the V1 30mm and 50mm bases and I hadn't yet started pinning models to their bases so the center slot was filled with that metal bar attached to the feet of the model. My initial concern was getting a magnet that exactly fit the depth of the base. I did not want to have to screw around with spacers and filler. Second, I did not want a magnet that was stronger than the glue bond between the magnet and base. I intended to use Zap-a-gap (my glue of choice). I knew I wanted square or rectangle ones so that I could glue them to the side of the center bar to maximize the amount of magnet suface glued to the base. I also idealy wanted to only get one size and have it work for everything. I had 0.09" and 1/8" to work with. I split the difference and decided to look for 0.1" cube or bar magnets. These aparently are impossible to find. A few head scratches later, I converted to metric and got 2.5mm. VIOLA! found them on the first try. So I purchased some 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 10mm N42 magnets and went to town. They worked great. I put one in the center of each 30mm bases, and two on opposite corners of the 50mm bases. I could pick up the models without the magnets coming off and I could turn the models upside down and they stayed put (I was using Bad JuJu as a test subject). Things changed when I got my first V1 40mm base. The 2.5mm magnet was too tall and the model was wobbly (but stayed attached so not too concerned). Shortly after that, V2 bases started showing up. The 50mm was functionaly no different, but the 30mm bases had the same problem as the V1 40mm. I had also started to have some problems with magnets breaking free from the bases. I blame having to leave my models in my car during an upstate NY winter. The freezing temperatures was probably making the glue more brittle. So I started looking for a solution. I ended up settling on a 3/16" x 3/16" x 1/16" bar magnet. I applied them the same way as the others to the new 30mm bases and the old 40mm bases and it worked like a charm. The next winter, I had even more magnets break free from the old 30mm bases. I was due to restock my supply anyway so I researched other options. I know the 10mm length was excessive for all but the heaviest 30mm models so I ended up going with 2.5mm cubes. I would put two on each 30mm base like I did with the 50mm bases. So even if one popped off, I would still have the other to keep things from flying all over. This was also the time that I started really pinning the models to the bases so it freed up the center slot. The magnets fit inside perfectly, double score! That brings us to the present. I still have occasional magnet break free, but not like I used to. Since most are in pairs, I don't find out until I try to pick up the model. I just got my first set of V3 30mm bases. I like the hold acheived in the V2 30mm bases so I have glued the flat 3/16" square magnets to the center, but have yet to test them in action. I don't anticipate any problems. My only cocern going forward is how to handle the V2 50mm bases. The 2.5mm magnets will still fit, but I will be unable to adequately mount them in the center slot due to it's increased width. I am toying with the idea of getting some 1/8" disc magnets to fill the small holes. Four of those should give me the same hold as two of the 10mm bars. So in summary, I currently use 2.5mm cubes, 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 10mm bars, and 3/16" x 3/16" x 1/16" bars. I plan to try out some 1/8" diameter x 1/10" diameter discs. V1 30mm = one 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 10mm bar or two 2.5mm cubes V1 40mm = one or two 3/16" x 3/16" x 1'16" bar V1 50mm = two or three 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 10mm bar V2 and V3 30mm = one 3/16" x 3/16" x 1'16" bar V2 40mm = one or two 3/16" x 3/16" x 1'16" bar V2 50mm = two or three 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 10mm bar or up to four 1/8" diameter x 1/10" diameter discs (these have yet to be tested). Here is a quick diagram on placement I purchase the 2.5mm cubes and 10mm bars from http://www.indigo.com/magnets/rare_earth/ I purchase the 3/16" bars and 1/8" diameter discs from http://www.kjmagnetics.com/
  3. Sup guys, not really a big forum poster but I felt like sharing my latest project that I have just begun. I am working on magnetising the avatar Vikis so that I may use them as both the avatar and the seperate Viks as I am not really a fan of the current moulds. First batch of pics: More to come
  4. So, I've been experimenting with magnets for a couple months now, and I've found it to be an invaluable item in the miniatures hobby. First and foremost it can make some models much easier to transport, especially large or unwieldy creations like say, any big Warhammer model. They can also let you switch out weapons, hold rank and file models together on a movement tray, and generally let you play around with spinning limbs and making woop-woop-woop sounds. The possibilities are practically endless! "But Slimnoid, you handsome man you," You ask, "how do you go about magnetizing things?" Well that's what this quick n' dirty tutorial is going to fix! By the end of my informative and totally not last-minute lesson, you'll go from this to this! In just thirty days. Step 1: Tools The most important part of this is having the necessary tools of the trade. If you're reading this, it's assumed you have the basics: a hobby knife, super glue, and a pin vice with large drill bits. aka the things that make other things In this instance we'll be using 3.00mm rare earth magnets; you will need smaller magnets for smaller models. You want to use rare earth magnets and not say, the ones your mom puts your school drawings on and calls them a masterpiece; those don't have the strength to hold up to anything. Missing: my progress report, and for good reason Of course, we can't do anything without models, now can we? Step 2: Victims 3.00mm is pretty big for most 28mm scale models, which is why we're using the Imperium's finest in our little experiment. Give'em a hand, ladies and gentlemen Meet Bob and Steve. They're best pals but have a crippling case of No Arms. Like their arch-nemesis Abaddon, they simply don't have arms to strike their foes with, or tie their boots, or give high-fives with an explosion in the background and a rockin' guitar riff playing. You know, essential manly actions. We're going to fix that. Step 3: Drilling Determine the point of contact for your magnets to meet. This is very important, as simply drilling willy-nilly will result in lopsided limbs and funny gestures from your tiny plastic men. Once you do that, grab the ol' pin vice and begin! BY THE EMPEROR THE PAIN! You will need to eyeball this a bit, and drill just far enough for the magnet to be flush with the outside; you don't want the magnet to be sticking out, as that would look silly and remove the illusion of a complete model. If you're like me, you'll forget and use the wrong drill bit and have to widen it just a tad. Just...let me die... He's such a good sport. Step 4: Gluing Once you have the hole carved out, glue that sucker in there. The...the pain has stopped...? The exact polarity facing out doesn't really matter much here, but if you want to be particular that's fine. My solution to it is to simply let another magnet fly towards it like a speeding bullet and sort itself out, then mark the bottom to where I want to glue it later. Ow! We're gluing a magnet on each side where we want his arms to go. While we let the glue dry, we do the same to the arms he'll be using, following the same steps as above. Wolverine stripes sold separately Once the glue dries, we grab the marked magnet and glue the marked edge towards the inside of the arm; this is very important, as if you glue the wrong polarized side facing out, the arm will fling itself away in disgust and curse you for all eternity. Not seen: my startled cat after limb recovery Set all parts aside to fully dry, and be sure to keep them away from each other or else they will very likely attract each other. And we don't want that, unless you like unexpected results in bio-engineering. What has science done?! Step 5: Profit! This is pretty self-explanatory. Once everything is dry, everything should fit together perfectly, or as close to it anyhow. You may need to grab a file and shave things down a bit to keep it nice and flush--you want full contact here for maximum strength. If you do it right, they should come out like this! We're gonna cut ya, sucka! And that's really about it! These are the bare-bone basics of magnetizing models, using common tools just about any modeller would have on hand, and works equally well on plastic, pewter, and resin models. You can get fancy with a dremel tool, which I recommend if you happen to have one as it can speed up the process a bit and make the holes much neater and more exact, but it isn't strictly necessary. Have fun and good luck!
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