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  1. Hi, for our first Malifaux Tournament [Multiversum Wanted] in march, we want to build a little bit more cool Terrain. A few acceptable boards are already present at our local club, but we want more. In this post we want to share this process with you. There is for now one desert, one city/Cobblestone and one winter themed board on the schedule. Today I started building a few bits for the desert board. Because I didn't want some boring sand or texture paste alone, I decided to experiment a little bit with some dry/cracked earth effects. Recently I stumbled upon a nice technique, utilizing bandages and plaster: You coat the bandages with a thin layer of a plaster and sand mix, let it dry and break it. The bandages hold the pieces together. So you can trim them into desired sizes and glue them onto the board. After they are completely dry and glued onto the board, the Edges will be blended with more plaster to provide a smooth transition. After that I will probably seal everything with some watered down white glue and put some texture paste onto the rest of the board. Next I started the first piece for a "desert-forest". I want to build some cactus forest. By sculpting one to three different cactus in Fimo and making moulds for them. I optimistic it will pay off. That was the first few bits for the Tournament boards. A few Ideas are quicksand-pool, boring rock-formations and some normal forest-pieces.
  2. In June of 2015 I started a project to create a ruined city terrain layout (the detail of the project can be found here http://themostexcellentandawesomeforumever-wyrd.com/topic/109091-malifaux-city-board-build-diary/ ). That project took about a year, and I've been playing on the board for around 6 month now. Having logged some times on the boards I've come to realize several deficiencies: 1. These boards heavily favor crews with lots of SH and ranged CA actions. The layouts sight lines that traverse the entire board, in two directions, and create kill zones. Scatter terrain mitigates this somewhat, but the amount of vantage point terrain on my board renders most of the scatter irrelevant. 2. The size of the roads severely limits terrain placement along the board edge if a road tile in on that edge. You basically on have 4" of clearance. 3. Creating additional boards to vary the layout is huge time sink because the current boards can not be cast in resin. They have numerous undercuts due to how the flagstone and cobblestone was built and attempting to mold the boards would result in torn molds or, even worse, damage the masters. I learned a lot in the build process, and have taken several classes about molding and casting since the boards were originally created. I've decided to re-build the boards, and eliminate the previously mentioned issues. The first thing I will be doing is reducing the individual board size from 12"x12" to 6"x6". That will allow more varied road layouts. Second I will be reducing the road width from 4" to 3". This, along with the reduced tile size, will limit areas of the board with large sight lines. Finally the boards will be be made from materials more tightly fitted to the MDF base, eliminating undercuts all together. By building the boards in this manner I will be able to cast the boards, and thus only need to create a few masters. So let get so some pics. First up are the renders of the new masters, along with a mock up of a possible layout versus the default layout of the old set. I've started working on a proof of concept sample. Instead of cardboard I will be using pink urethane foam to create individual flag stones. The foam will be cut in thin sheets using a foam cutting table with a rip guard. The strips will be cut to size and affixed to the MDF base. then They will then be textured by bashing them with a rock from my yard. The curb stones (which had the most undercuts on the old boards) will be cut to fit snugly in place. Finally everything will be sealed with watered down PVA (probably a 1:1 mix). The curb stones themselves will be very labor intensive but, as you will see, the effect will be worth it. Plus, I only need to create 5 masters, as opposed to 9 for the old set, then I can cast whatever else I need.
  3. This coming weekend we'll be have our yearly convention, Salt City Gladiator Games. The fun begins on Friday at 10am when the doors open. We'll be running demos and a continuous Enforcer Brawl that gives players tickets for the convention raffle until 4:30 pm when we start signup for our first event, a Henchman Hardcore tournament. Saturday we'll again be running demos and the Enforcer Brawl until 12:30 so we can get ready for our 50 ss Gaining Grounds Tournament. Depending on participants, the event will last 4 rounds after which we'll be going out for pizza and drinks at The Lucky Slice. We'll finish off the weekend Sunday with our continuing Enforcer Brawl and speed painting contest at 10 am and a Story Encounter tournament with sign up at 11:30. We're really excited to be back for a second year at SCGG and we have lots of fun events and prize support from Wyrd, Wizard Widgets, Secret Weapon and others. Hope to see you there! http://www.saltcitygladiatorgames.com/p/malifaux.html
  4. So, I'm going to make a table for Malifaux, and as I've never done a project like this before. I've been in the wargaming hobby for many years, so it's high time I do! So here's a sketch of what I have in mind. So my conundrum is what type of glue to use and affix the PVC sheets (Plastcraft Games) to the wood below. I've had suggested strong PVC/woodworking glue, liquid nails, epoxy etc. Any input will be appreciated. Don't expect regular updates as I'm horribly lazy but sometimes get inspired and sit down and power through a project. Cheers!
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