oxazejam

Peacekeeper is done. Rather quick paintjob (2 days) considering somewhat tricky cleanup and sheer amount of intricate details. Client suggested to make it rusty and battered, and in the end I wanted to achieve "rusty metal" look rather than "metallic rust", if that makes sence, so all effects were applied in moderation. I've added two little cheap jewelry chains to leg and arm to enhance the industrial feel and bulk it up a bit. Painting itself was done with brushes exclusively, it took a lot of patience to pick out all rivets and recesses one by one. Rough metallic highlights were done sparingly with a piece of sponge, later touched up by hand where needed. I also painted two cables in red and blue to tie it with the gang, little bit of OSL was done with the same blue as well. Hard to catch reflective surface on photos properly. In real life, of course, all transitions are more "alive" and noticeable. Bigger pictures + 2 more angles are uploaded to the album, link to which is in the first post. Cheers!

Thanks a lot for your kind words. Clothes and skin are definitely very demanding parts on any model, and since these are mostly just that it was a fun challenge and useful experience. I couldn't really take good photos of smaller models faces, especially Perdita, but I hope Santiago is a good example of how they look. Thanks. All reds were actually done the same way. I use Vallejo paints, colours were MC Burnt Red for basecoat, then lined and somewhat blended shadows with MC German Black Brown, same but reversed for highlights with GC Bloody Red (not sure if that paint is supposed to be so thin, but mine is and it kind of helps with the blendings), then edge highlight with the same colour + a little bit of MC Ivory. Once all colours on the model are up to that stage I do little spot highlights with pure Ivory to bump up the contrast just a bit more. At blending stages I usually go back and forth with thin layers to pull it off just right, so having some sort of wet pallete helps when I'm dealing with mixes rather than pure colours.

I would recommend to practice on easier miniatures and don't dive in "next level" stuff right away. Organic details such as skin and clothes are one of the hardest things to pull off as they are imprinted in our memories and we quickly see if it doesn't look "right". Learn to do simple base colour, neat shadows by using thinned dark (not black) paint or washes sparingly in recesses, and "edge" highlights first. If done correctly it produces quality table top results and all it requires is steady hands, appropriate paint consistency and some hours under the belt to become neater. As for metal details - due to popular thought using metallics is put in easy category when compared to NMM, while in reality to look good both actually require pretty much the same technique. In metallics it is just a bit more forgiving on the blendings because of reflective nature of the paint. Plain base color + wash + quick highlight (usually drybrush) often isn't enough for a good result, especially on larger smooth surfaces such as swords or armour.

Hey everyone. Recently got a Malifaux commission from a friend, which is a bit of a break from usual GW stuff I do. He collects Guild as far as I understood, and the first batch I've chosen was The Latigo Posse. I was asked to do a bit of Dia de Muertos theme, and as I can't sculpt my options were limited to painting. I've settled for simple face make-up and colour choices because of time restraints. I've uploaded individual photos to my Flickr page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/oxazejam/albums/72157665974425119 Any feedback would be much appreciated. Next 2 miniatures I'm currently prepairing are Abuela Ortega and Peacekeeper, both in plastic.