WWHSD

Getting a little bit of paint on the bases seems to help with the slopiness, at least from arm’s length.

For the next bases I figured that building up the big spaces with green stuff giving it some time to cure and then covering everything with the layer of green stuff that I’d stamp would get rid of some of the issues I had that cause the first base to come out a bit lopsided. I filled the sockets with what was essentially blu-tac that isn’t actially blue. A solid filler might have worked better but this was quick to do, completely filled the gap and was fairly easy to get out after the green stuff hardened. I should have take a picture after I had put on the final layer of green stuff and had it stamped. When stamped the green stuff cover up a lot of my white filler. However, it was easy enough to insert my xacto knife into the spots where the filler was visible and cut away filler and green stuff until I hit the solid bits of the frame work. I think I cleaned out the three remaining sockets in less time than it took me to clean out the one on my first base. The green stuff came out a little little slopier than I would have liked. I think I over estimated how thick the green stuff was going to be and could have drilled into the base a bit before gluing in the magnet. The end result seems like it will be functional and while it won’t win any beauty contests it should look okay on the table. I am curious how well the sprue peg on the Coryphee feet will hold up and I suspect I should probably put a couple coats of gloss varnish on the models after I paint them but before I hit them with my matte varnish for the added protect sonce they will probably get handled more than other models.

I’m doing the bases one at a time at this point to keep from making the same disastrous mistake on all of them. I cover the top of one of the bases woth green stuff and trried to keep it out of the socket as much as possible and then I used my stamp to put a pattern on it. Without the lip of the base to constrain the green stuff, the edges came out a little sloppy. I also needed to spend a lot of time cleaning out the socket and shaving the edges of it away with my xacto knife after the green stuff hardened. The peg of sprue that I attached to the Coryphee foot doesn’t sit flush with the top of the base. I don’t think it will be very noticable once I get some paint on everything. On the next base I’m going to try filling in the socket with something to reduce the amount of cleanup required.

I cut some more sprue and glued in some magnets. I was going to drill into the base so that the magnet was flush. I realized that the green stuff is going to add a little height to the top so I skipped the hole drilling. To make sure that I didn’t screw up the polarity, I stuck the magnet to the magnet in the foot of the Coryphee, put a drop of glue on the new magnet and pushed it into place until it set. At this point I’ve got some pretty ugly bases that functionally do what I need I want them to. Next step is to bust out the green stuff and pretty things up.

I just picked up a Coryphee box and want to make bases thay allow me to use the same models for the Duet that I do when they are seperate. I saw a really cool base gadget on by Custom Meeple but I’m too impatient and two cheap for the shipping from Europe. I figured I try to make something similar myself. I’ve got medicore hobby skills, really no specialized tools, and the closet I’ve come to doing anything like this in the past is driving tiny nails into some Steam Arachnids and putting some magnets in green stuff. This isn’t any sort of guide or tutorial and is a work in in progress. I’m putting it here so maybe someone can learn from the mistakes I make. The first thing I noticed about the Coryphee is that they have dainty little ballet dancer feet that are too small for magnets and that I’d probably destroy if I tried to pin. I figured that some sprue would help me create a more stable connection point and one that could hold a magnet. I drilled out a hole in some sprue and glued in a magnet. I trimmed down the sprue and used plastic glue to attach it to the feet of the two Coryphee. I superglued some craft sticks to create a framework on the base. I used a piece of sprue to make sure that the spacing was right. I’m think that wood will help give some structure to the green stuff that I am planning on covering the base with. I think the next step is to put some magnets in the bases and use some sprue to create sockets that the models will fit into.

If the game comes down to a single critical flip, does that mean that neither player played well?

You put forth two options for generating encounters in your post; using a scheme deck or using dice. Both of those require a player to get something extra to be able to play the game. I don't see any difference between using dice to generate a random number from a table and drawing cards to do so (other than the options of what those numbers are).

I'm pretty sure players have been generating schemes and strategies out of the rule books and gaining grounds for as long as Malifaux M2E has been around. Scheme decks are fine and all but I just don't think that they should be the required (non-digital) method for generating an encounter pool. My position is that we should leave the tools in place that let people without scheme decks generate encounters. People with scheme decks can use those decks to generate encounters if they'd like should remain an optional and not required component to play the game.

Why use dice for scheme generation when they aren't used elsewhere in the game? Everyone already has a Fate deck.

I guess I'm not getting how drawing a card and referring to a table isn't intuitive or quick. New players already have enough crap they've got to either buy or make to play the game. I'm not sure why we need to get rid of the ability to generate encounters with a Fate Deck and require someone to buy a scheme deck or undertake an arts and crafts project to make a suitable stand-in.

You can play with the GG doc or the book using a Fate Deck to choose your schemes. I've played like that, and I've used the app but I've never used (or owned) a scheme deck. Using a deck of cards that is already required to play the game to randomly pick something from a table in the rules seems more straight forward than requiring players to buy or make a specific deck that essentially does the same thing. It's a stated goal of Wyrd's that the app is not needed to play the game so I'm disregarding the app as the easiest way to generate an encounter pool.

There's a big difference. I own a Fate deck.

It seems odd that there is a disconnect between "placing in base contact" and "being in base contact" with a marker. I don't think anyone would argue that a model that is sitting on top of an enemy scheme marker was unable to pick it up using an Interact action because they were overlapping it rather than having the edge of the model's base touching the edge of the scheme marker's base.

It seems like I've seen a handful of players that have been asking about whether they should get into Malifaux now or wait until M3E. Without having any special insight into what M3E has in store, I thought that these guidelines might help to protect the investment of people that were just starting to buy into Malifaux. There's obviously no guarantees on which models are "safe" M3E purchases but the goal is to minimize the number of models that a player may pickup that are orphaned once M3E rolls around. Take a look at the list of masters for M3E. Avoid the masters that aren't listed, and make sure the master is still in the faction that you are buying them for. Some dual faction models (Lynch, McCabe, McMourning) are losing one of their factions in M3E, plan your buying around the faction that they are staying in. Focus your purchases on models that seem like they go with the theme of the master you want to play them with. Those are the models that will likely end up with the master's keyword. Avoid buying models to bring into M2E crews using the mercenary rules. It's been announced that they are going away. Some masters have big hiring pools that allow them to bring in out of faction models. Marcus is an example of this. He can hire Beast models from any faction. Try to limit your purchases to models that they'd be able to hire without the special rule. Effigies, Emissaries, and Riders will be safe purchases since its been announced that they will have the Versatile keyword and are able to be hired without penalty in any crew that matches their faction. Avoid summoner models that have big summoning pools. It looks like there might be a lot of changes in regards to summoning. Is there anything I'm off-base on here or have forgotten to mention?

Monosyllabic Mason made more marvelous morning Malifaux mentions.

They also matter quite a bit in turns other than the the first for scoring certain schemes.

While I think that havening some cost associated with passing would help keep things in check it seems like not allowging consecutive passes from a player would also work unless the crew size were very similar.

That’s not going to happen unless the cards get even bigger. Most of the cards that were at GenCon have their backsides pretty much full of text.

Especially, all of the bits about scoring Schemes and Strategies. That stuff could have all been done in GG2019 without an edition change.

Did anyone destroy and Destructible Ice Pillars? Were the ones she casts 30mm like the ones that drop when her Ice critters die.

I don't know why you need to project your closed minded Decimalcentric views on the rest of us.

It probably won't be as straight forward as "M2E Soft Cover = M3E Concealment" and "M2E Hard Cover = M3E Cover + Concealment" but I suspect that there will be ways to setup situations that a model can take up a defensive position that will grant them both. My guess is that Cover and Concealment are going to be separate from any terrain attributes that may grant them. Abilities like Howard Langston's Steam Cloud ability seem like they'd be more straight forward if they just gave models in an aura Concealment instead of creating an area of Soft Cover.

We don't know how Cover and Concealment will work together. If a model that would have had Hard Cover in M2E benefits from both of them they get quite a bit harder to hit and damage. I like the idea of +2Df and ato the damage flip from cover. It makes models harder, but not impossible, to hit and makes it more likely they they'll just take minimum damage. Low Df models in cover were essentially guaranteed to be hit by a model with an attack stat of 6 that spent a focus. Cover makes it more likely that the defender wins the duel. Models with Df 6 get really hard to shoot with cover.

Are you sure that you can only score the schemes once? It looked like maybe the schemes had an option for scoring both points at once or being able to score it twice, with the second time being something that your opponent is better able to defend against since they know what scheme you are trying to score.

I would have had my money on a new book too but it seems like it would be a bit of a DOA release with third edition already announced.