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Nikodemus

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Nikodemus last won the day on December 14

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  1. Well TT does have some rather obviously powerful things going for them. Don't have much experience with Arcs or OC to really comment. I mean I have some Arc experience, on both sides of the table, but when no-ones optimising to the max its hard to gauge how bad the top table stuff is.
  2. I'm very much a novice with NMM so even my default "let's just slap some paint on and see what sticks" approach looks structured. You will find better tutorials to follow elsewhere, but I'll share some thoughts. Since you asked Some preamble first, if I may: Main mantra I'm going by is that NMM doesn't have to be fancy competition level tryhard stuff (mindblown yeah, but it's something I've struggled to 'get' in the past, not with painting in general, just NMM specifically). I'm allowed to just slap some paint on and have fun with it. This doesn't mean that I do zero blending or anything, but it means I'm not stressing over accurate highlight placement or smoothness beyond what I can easily manage. Those can come later, if I'm so inclined. Below a video I found particularly helpful: Extremely helpful video on NMM highlight placement from Kujo Painting. Just about the most useful 10 minutes on the subject you can find. Give some good guidelines to go by - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zux0HAS8pAw ____ Onto the step by step (it's really a back'n forth process, bit more shadow there, bit more light there, bit smoother in between, a hash here, a dot there, and then again): Paints used: VMC Black (only for extreme shadows at the flat of the blade) VMC Dark Sea Blue (it's a dark turquoise, 'main colour' of the sword basically, could use any colour here, I like DSB for the slightly blue-ish hue. Also used it on the loincloth, which amusingly looks a lot greener in comparison) Daler-Rowney White Ink Daler-Rowney Titanium White heavy body acrylic (fancy tube paint from an art store) I will be referring to Dark Sea Blue + White Ink mixes. Can't really give ratios. I mixed lighter or darker by eye as required. Word about my whites. You could replace them with any minibrand white if you like. I like the ink because it's very runny (as inks are), great for edge highlights, goes on super smooth, a dream to work with. Titanium White is just white dialed to 11, far as opacity and brightness is concerned, I like it but it's nowhere near as 'essential' for my painting as the ink is. There's nothing special about DR brand specifically (Or Vallejo for that matter), it's simply what my local art store stocks. Flat of the blade: Basecoated Dark Sea Blue. Figured out the parts I wanted lighter and darker, helped myself by sketching some DSB+White mix on a few parts to help me visualise. Realised I want it to be dark near the sharp bits, because I want the sharp bits to be really bright. Proceeded to blend a small gradient going from white at the backedge to DSB to black near the white sharp bits. We all have our own preferred methods for achieving something like that. Since it's a big area I decided to practice a bit of loaded brush on it for a laugh. On top of that I applied some very thin coats of DSB+White Ink mix to in-between areas to help with the transition. Then I glazed some DSB towards the shadows to smooth things out a bit. Then I glazed a bit of black at the very darkest parts. Did a few edge highlights, first with DSB+White mix then with pure white in a few parts. Tried to do a sort of dotted, broken line. Looks a bit more interesting than a clean unbroken line. Plus the slight spillage it cause gives it a neat effect. Edge of the blade: I knew I wanted it lighter so I basecoated it with a DSB+White mix. I sketched in some dark and light spots with white and DSB. Once I was happy with general light placement, I did some rough layering, going from DSB to pure white. Was maybe 4-6 layers to reach pure white. Glazed a bit of DSB towards the dark spots where I felt I needed to smooth things out. Did some thin perpendicular white hashes throughout the edge to give a bit of texture to the thing. Tiny spikes/"teeth": Super simple. 3-4 step rough layering going from pure DSB to pure white at the tips. Did some dotting and edgehighlghts along most edges. ___ While flat->edge->spikes was the order in which I finished things, I sketched in the edge and spikes while I was still working on the flat just to help me 'see' the whole thing. Helped me make better decisions, gave me hope the whole thing wasn't crashing & burning
  3. That's the best👍 Digging Toni's skintone. ___ @Caedrus Barbaros for 9ss My first OC Leader in this brave new edition. Not that he'll be used as such, I don't think. He turned out nice enough that I might try fitting him into an OC Crossroads crew at some point though. Interesting aside, when I was preparing for this paintjob and looking up other people's paintjobs, I didn't find a single one painted pink. What gives. I think it suits him
  4. Ours is also the only one with a "discard before you cheat" aura on a stat6 min3 beater
  5. True story, played Malifaux on gingerbread terrain last christmas/new year. Might as well make it a tradition at this point
  6. Check January releases, "The Lost": https://www.wyrd-games.net/upcoming-releases Includes Archie and 3 Crooligans (VERY useful models for Molly).
  7. When I play TT, "gosh I wish I had more Ruthless models" isn't a thought that pops into my head But for real, I've used Chiaki ook a few times. She's decent (she's no Tanuki...). Condition removal, card draw, movement shenanigans. Bit expensive I feel but fun to use from time to time. Can't remember if I've used Izamu or only considered into Obey matchups, but I view him as a valid counter tech pick ook. I've never considered the two together. I guess it'd be ok. Could be fun to give Yasunori some armour (htw+armour woo woo) and ruthless (ain't nobody got time to flip those terrify duels, wp7 or no).
  8. Quick and dirty ain't no sin I particularly like the Gokudo proxy, and blue on the Tengu.
  9. Did in 2e. I don't actually recall any M3e statement regarding Wyrd's stance on errata, though I may have simply missed or forgotten said statement. So technically we don't know how (if at all) 3e will be handled. That said I believe The Other Side was somewhat recently errata'd so I feel it's safe to say that Wyrd is still a pro-errata company and I remain hopeful they'll handle it with deliberation and grace
  10. I don't think anything is "known". But I fully expect Wyrd to expand their model range as 3e goes along and Explorer's /McCabe could definitely use some of that, moreso than many other factions or keywords.
  11. If you can find 2e boxes, great. Otherwise, for 3e boxes: Cojo and Sabertooth are still unavailable. Unknown how they will be packaged. As said both are in Marcus' 2e box, as well as available singly in 2e packages if you can find any. Most 3e models come in bundles so buying singles now may end up you having to buy duplicates later. That said, for Sabretooth Cerberus it isn't necessarily bad. You can field two in a crew and there's a chance (I don't know anything, no promises) Wyrd will only sell a single sculpt in 3e per box so you'll get your full compliment of two Cerberi that way. Blessed of December comes in the "Ten Peaks" box, which has Silent Ones and Hoarcats bundled in. It's a December keyword themed box, but both Blessed and Hoarcats are beasts. I highly value Blessed, great rules. Haven't tried Hoarcats but on paper they seem more of a Rasputina model, far as rules synergies go. They're ok I'm sure, but I haven't exactly been missing them in my crews. Blessed was available in a single box in 2e, so that'd be an economical way to go if you can find one (Wyrd webstore still sells some 2e boxes for instance). Blessed was also available in a "Twisted Alternatives" box for 2e, which contains alternative models for Blessed and Izamu (TT model), bit pricier box but if you can find it and like the aesthetics, go for it. Vogel comes in "Altered Beasts" box, which has Vogel (both forms) and Scorpius bundled in. I've only recently ordered mine, so can't speak for their performance on the table. Though I like the look of all models on paper and am rather anxious to get some games with them. If you want to stick with 3e releases only, limiting yourself to two boxes, I'd go with Marcus Core Box + Altered Beasts. That's basically the "thematic" way to go anyway. It's not optimal, not by a longshot, but it'll get you gaming. Ideally I think you'd grab Marcus' 2e box + whatever else you like the look of.
  12. Looks handy. And loving the paints As an aside, it looks like pictures for your March diorama have disappeared. Bit of a shame I recall it being really good looking.
  13. Neat to see a more natural look to things. I don't really bother myself with bases, but gotta say it does look nice when someone's wiling to put in the effort. You're probably aware (and uninterested) of the somewhat active tournament scene we've got going, but just as an FYI we also did a little casual get-together in Turku this past sunday with a few out of towners. Just a few leisurely games. We do those somewhat irregularly. Let me know if that sort of thing interests you. In the same vein for the past two years we've held a summertime outdoor bbq & Malifaux event out in the countryside, in a public space near a lake (sauna & swimming optional). It hasn't exactly been open invitation due to logistics involved, but if you'd like to be notified for next year let me know Keep the terrain & minis coming, and good luck for the 2020 challenge👍
  14. Just pointing out that Reposition still counts as movement so Rattler using it during its own activation will count as having moved and thus be ineligible for +2 Shielded. Used Rattler in two games over the weekend. Planning to do a few more before the year's through. It's been... ok. Needs more testing but I'm open to the idea that it might actually be worth a little. So far it's been fast enough despite being slower than my other preferred beasts. It's been tanky enough despite being nerfed husk of its 2e glory days.
  15. Had a few midweek distractions but here's last night's progress on Lilith's White Knight. Shoulder armour isn't quite that smooth irl, but nothing that'd bother you at arm's length. Still WIP of course. Good to see some horsework here. I've got a "rider" myself waiting for an inspiration. @PetitDalek so pretty. Doing a gaming base later?
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