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H4ml3t

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Posts posted by H4ml3t

  1. 3 hours ago, Treehouse said:

    @CapnBloodbeard:

    If your aim is mostly to paint fast and in tabletop quality (since you don't enjoy painting), you might want to consider pre-shading and washing your miniatures.

     

    IMG_20160618_205220.jpg 

     

    Spray-prime them black from below. Then spray-prime them grey from the side (this will cover up most of the black, which is fine). Then give it a spray coat of white from the top (and slightly at an angle). Adjust so that you hit all surfaces at least slightly with white. But only the parts standing out the most - or that the sun would light.

     

    IMG_20160618_211830.jpg

     

    Then you dilute your colour with a lot of water. You have to try out how much. Load your brush with the paint-water mix. (You can add some matte-varnish too). Tip the thick part of your brush against a paper towel to unload most of the water (you don't want it to float everywhere). Then brush it over your miniature.

     

    Not all colours work with this method, some don't cover the black (yellow for example) and look a bit weired and the miniature is not so vivid in colour. But it's really, really fast and gives decent results, even when looked at from afar. With training on your brush control and planning which colours to use on each model beforehand, you could paint a crew (at least without tiny details) in an evening. The stage in the picture above took ybout 10 minutes.

     

    This was going to be my next suggestion. I prime all black and then drybrush white but the end result is basically the same. I also mix my paint with 50/50 water and Pledge Acrylic Floor Shine. Whatever mix you use try it  on newspaper--a good starting point is when the color is pretty solid on the paper but you can still read the print through it. The idea is that the paint is thin enough for the preshading you've done in the priming process to show through a bit.

    The nice thing about this method is that you get good results pretty quickly. That makes painting fun so you do it more and your brush control improves and you get better and better at the techniques your using. Then if you feel like it you can start adding in new techniques and effects and all of the sudden your giving advice to others on how to get better results. At least that's how it worked for me and I hope it will serve you well too.

  2. I've been where you're now at and I may be able to help. We'll start with your current models and then I'll talk about a technique  I use that may help you moving forward.

    On all non-white areas do a drybrush of a lighter color then go back with a dark grey or black wash. If you need help with drybrushing hit youtube. For the wash you can either buy a wash or mix your dark colored paint with a 50/50 mix of water and Pledge Acrylic Floor Shine. You want the wash to be thin--paint it over a newspaper and you should be able to easily read the paper through the wash. 

    On the white/silver areas, skip the dry brush but do an even thinner dark wash over it.

    The idea with the drybrush is that the paint only goes on to the raised area of the mini that would catch the light and appear brighter. The dark wash will then take away the "chalky" effect that the dry brush leaves behind and shades the low areas on the mini that would be darker due to shadow. This leaves your original color as the mid-tone, the drybrushing is your highlight and the wash is your low-tone. Having 3 layers of color will give your mini much more depth and make it look way better. 

    Then if you feel like it, you can go back and pick out details with a small brush with very little paint on it. Again, this step is up to you.

    Basing also goes a long way and can be as simple as putting thinned white school glue on the base and dropping grass effect over it.

    I'll have more to say later but this should help for now. Remember that any painted/based model looks phenomenally better than grey plastic and at Tabletop distance no one will see your mistakes or imperfections.

  3. 9 hours ago, Pikciwok said:

    I don't think that's a good idea to link clearly outdated strategy topics and recommend them to struggling players. 
    A few reasons why it's outdated:
    - there's no such thing as 'Obscuring' terrain trait in M2E;
    - Mr Shine used Perdita as an example of Master struggling on boards with lots of blocking terrain; everyone who plays her or against her knows it's not true;

    Good point regarding a lot of the specifics of that terrain thread. I was just remembering that thread as helping me to think about terrain, definition and placement in new and useful ways.

    • Like 1
  4. @misterfinn Let me start by saying you're painting at a level significantly above my own ability so take everything with a grain of salt.

    I think your Nothing Beast is looking excellent so far but regarding your texture idea I have some thoughts. For the "glop" he's rising out of what if the colors swirled into each other some? You might also try a Satin or Glossy varnish on that part to give it some shine. For the carapace it looks like the highlights are going to a yellow color but I wonder if you might take them as far as white to get the look you're going for. 

    Whatever you do I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.

  5. Terrain, Terrain, Terrain. Saying that you're struggling against ranged and blasty crews makes me suspect you either don't have enough terrain or you need more variety. There's a very good discussion on terrain here: 

    As others mentioned, I'd also recommend focusing on 1 or 2 Masters and getting 10-20 games in with each of them before adding another Master to the mix.

    This "video" (sound only) has excellent and generic tips for Improving as a Player. I highly recommend it.

    Hopefully these can help you start getting some wins. Hang in there.

  6. Want!

    This line will continue a terrible cycle where I need to work to buy Wyrd products (not to mention food/shelter/etc) but don't want to work so I can play with the Wyrd products I have.

    Like a lot of the ideas listed above but a Sewer set and Three Kingdoms set are high on my wish list. Not to mention The Honeypot Casino.

  7. 2 hours ago, izikial said:

    I think i have settled on playing lucius and then building around him either neverborn or guild. But i think neverborn it is for me

    After 18 months of Arcanists (I Love Rasputina and Marcus!) I was ready for another faction for my competitive play for this year. I knew I wanted Neverborn and would be running Lilith (our love may last the ages--or until she gets pissed and kills me) but I didn't know which other Master I'd run with her. I experimented with several and I found that I really enjoy Purple (NB) Lucius. He's certainly not OP but he can be very strong if played well and has a high skill-cap. Other players often underestimate him if they haven't faced a strong Lucius player. Best of luck to you. PM me or start another thread if you have any questions about getting going.

    • Like 1
  8. 1 hour ago, Purple Mist said:

    No need to use putty with small, plastic minis. You can use plastic cement with resin (Revell or TAMYA produce good ones) to fill gapes, always using a small paint brush.

    Thanks for this tip! My efforts to fill small gaps with putty have at least a 50% chance of making things worse. Looking forward to trying this new approach. Any tips on treating the brush afterwards so it at least remains usable for glue application?

  9. On 1/15/2018 at 2:27 AM, Ludvig said:

    Bultingin seem tailored to Lucius but haven't been released. Try get to take a pretty badass atta k when they are pushed which combos well with his built in push.

    I've proxied Bultungin with Lucius and they're amazing with him.

    • Like 1
  10. From the games I've played so far.

    Changeling is great to carry Vendetta and name a weak low cost model as the target. Lilith/Lilitu/Beckoner can get the target where you need it to be and Changeling can borrow a beaters weapon to score full Points in one Activation.

    Lilith/Lilitu/Beckoner can also be great for Set Up.

    Lilith is a strong choice for Undercover Entourage.

    Lucius Hidden Sniper Upgrade can be good for Inescapable Trap.

    The Cherubs 3" Aura for reduced cost Interactions is great in Ply for Information and Supply Wagons.

    On paper I thought Terror Tots would be great for Symbols of Authority but in the 2 games I've tried them they still struggled. I'm thinking about models with Leap (Silurids and Gupps maybe) or maybe Tuco using From the Shadows.

     

    • Like 1
  11. On 1/9/2018 at 5:05 PM, Viruk said:

    Thanks! Life is now definitely happier and busier ;)

     

    Ooops, was meant to check that before posting :) Nurse Heartsbane comes at 8 stones, which makes it a total of 27 soulstones for e at this point

    First models of 2018! Cherub and Beckoner for 10. (Declared Beckoner pre errata) The pics are sub par so I may try for better later. I hope to finish 2x Waldgeist and 2x Stitched Together before Feb.

    IMG_20180111_163802413.jpg

    IMG_20180111_163817380.jpg

    IMG_20180111_164002529.jpg

    IMG_20180111_164030450.jpg

     

     

    • Like 3
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