H4ml3t

On 7/31/2017 at 5:30 PM, spect_spidey said:

With previous miniature games that I played, I would typically prime the miniatures in one of two ways. I would prime them on the sprue using spray primer. Or I would assemble legs and torsos to bases and prime the arms etc, still on sprue using spray primer. Based upon the size of Malifaux minis and how they assemble at odd joints, I am having issues using these two methods. I find some pieces way too small to prime on the sprue and I find that I cannot often times leave arms and such unattached to prime. I am also having difficulty priming them when not attached to the base due to the often times small attachment points like a single foot or tippy-toes. Because of these issues, I have resorted to using a brush and painting the assembled models one at a time by hand. I am finding that this is time consuming and doesn't always give me an even coat. And when I don't have an even coat it can sometimes make it difficult for me to see some details or where different segments begin or end. So I have the following questions for advice. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I have searched through Google, but I was hoping for some Malifaux specific advice.

1. Do you prime your models using a brush or spray can?

2. Do you prime your models after assembling and if so do you attach them to the base before priming?

3. If you attach to the base prior to priming is it a permanent or temporary attachment?

4. Is there a way to do brush priming quickly and evenly?

1. Prefer spray can for speed but sometimes use brush due to temperature, humidity or rain.

2. I prime after assembling and attaching to my painting (non permanent) base.

3. Temporary.

4. Brush will never be as quick as a can. For even coating water the primer down some to get better flow.

Hope this helps!

3 hours ago, Viruk said:

Now I need to finish Somer, how many points are masters worth in the challenge?

Masters are worth 15.

6 hours ago, Kogan Style said:

This lil' dude wasn't pledged, but I felt the urge to start painting him anyway! Presenting a WIP of Baby Kade (metal version). I'm pretty creeped out by him, but I don't know what colour to make the teddy now; any ideas?

That baby looks excellent and creepy. Nice work. I'll leave the color theory to others.

3 hours ago, santaclaws01 said:

If you're going to take a leader than you'll just kill, why not Widow Weaver or Bad Juju for the 6ss cache? Also I don't know anyone that would attack Barbaros instead of Nekima, even with Challenge up.

Barbaros is fairly tanky (for Neverborn) and his 4" push on Attacks can help deny the Strat. In a game with a tight timeline if people are attacking Nekima over him I still see that as a win. The kill Barbaros with Nekima move is more of a back up plan.

Barbaros as Leader with Nekima (FGF), Changeling, and Primordial Magic.

If they get Barbaros to low Wounds. Nekima kills him, heals up and becomes your new Leader. It's gimmicky but fun.

@Purple Mist Looking good! Keep at em.

And Poltergeist is done bringing me to 20ss this month. Hope to get Barbaros and Lelu done before the month's out.

I've been more quiet than usual but I have gotten some painting in. I purposely went "Wyrd" with my painting on these and I think I like the results. 3x Sorrows for 15ss so far this month. The Poltergeist is in the  middle of getting the same treatment.

You could criticize my work, but you'd be Sorry! That was a Miserable pun! 😜

Great reports--i like your style. I was your Rd 5 opponent and that was a very enjoyable, nail-biter of a game. Anna and Sue were super annoying to play around. It was a mistake for me to take Set Up on Sue but I was fortunately able to still get full points for it.

Looking to trade my extra Lilitu for TT. Yamaziko, Lone Swordsman, TT Bro, Tanuki, Tengu are all on the wish list but will consider others. This is to help out a teen who currently has Lynch box, Misaki box, Graves and Katanaka Sniper. US based.

My reading of the Strategy is that you may only target Symbols on the opponent's side of the board. So since your own Symbols must be on your own side of the board you may not target them.

17 minutes ago, I'm a Teapot! said:

 which is wonderfull for public executions

And Take One for the Team.

^^^That makes perfect sense. 😜

On 2/2/2018 at 12:22 PM, Ludvig said:

Technically the rules don't let you move over or overlapping another models base and the elevation rules don't say that you can ignore that part just because you are on different levels of the table so standing under the balcony could prevent anyone from moving on top of it and vice versa but we have "houseruled" that you can obviously be occupying the same spot but on different levels, mostly because those of us who know the rules well enough just think it's stupid and most players don't even realise there is such a weird inconsistency.

The need for this sort of common Sense houseruling bothers me. I hope we'll either get an Errata focused on fixing 3d rules or they get fixed in version 2.5

At a recent Tournament I had Lilitu (Ht2) on a Ht1 platform and it was ruled that she couldn't see over the Ht2 model standing at ground level in front of her. The 1" platform wasn't a Vantage Point and I could find nothing in RAW to indicate that the level she's standing on can be added to her Ht when determining LOS. This ruling didn't have a significant impact on the game but it definitely left me feeling salty.

Interesting read on facing Nico: http://www.malifauxmusings.com/2018/02/wanted-nicodem.html?m=1

5ss sounds good for them.

Nico now that he has Kentauroi, Lampads, and Asura Rotten is crazy good.

I'm crazy impressed with everyone's work thus far. Keep it up and we'll have a good year of painting together.

In no particular order the top of my to-do list is Pandora, 3x Sorrows, Poltergeist, Lelu and Barbaros. I'm hoping to complete at least 4 of these in Feb and hopefully more.

44 minutes ago, emiba said:

Just a quick clarification that has nothing to do with the actual topic. The paired scheme always uses the same suit as the strategy. (Unless you've house ruled it of course.) so in this case the paired scheme would be Punish the Weak (I think) rather than Surround them.

Carry on. 

Crewfaux did that. Oops.

So the opponent I play most often and who I'm most evenly matched with is a Resser player who often runs Nico. By focusing on Strats and Schemes and being careful to set up fights on my terms I do fine  against Nico but I'm starting to think about how to get him murdered by let's say Turn 2. 

Assume this as the game: 

Deployment: Standard Deployment (7)
Strategy: Symbols of Authority (Masks)
Schemes: 
  * Surround Them (Rams)
  * Undercover Entourage (5)
  * Inescapable Trap (6)
  * Take Prisoner (9)
  * Take One For the Team

Turn 1 Nico will have a great hand thx to Phillip and is unlikely to move outside of his deployment zone and will largely be behind a wall of Undead. By Turn 2 he'll Walk forward once and still have models between me and him. We can go ahead and assume I'll be getting out activated.

Any ideas on how to pressure/kill him early to really throw my opponent off his game? Thx in advance.

On 1/28/2018 at 7:03 PM, Fetid Strumpet said:

Which is one of the reasons just reducing them in cost wasn’t really a good idea to my mind. 

I'd like to see a universal Rare Limit for initial crews.

I was skeptical about  vinyl mats until I went to a tournament that used them and saw them in person. I now love my Mats by Mars mats--the quality and durability are great and the grid is there which is super useful but it's subtle enough to not be distracting. Just my .02

The more I look at it and think of options the more I think I won't be summoning any more than 1 a Turn so 3 will probably be good for me. If I get going and find out that in practice I need more then I'll buy the extra 3 pack.

I've certainly appreciated the different thoughts on this and I'm open to any further discussion on Woe Pandora.

That's great! I don't think Ressers need the help though.