MrG

RESURRECTIONISTS Assembled, not based, with original box: Datsue Ba & Seishin The drowned Rogue Necromancy Gaki Hanged Bete Noir metal (1ED miniature) Bete Noir plastic Dead doxies Killjoy Graveyard spirit Carrion emissary Vengeful spirits (Kirai Crew) Night terrors University of transmortis Take back the night (Molly Crew) Shikome Assembled, WIP Izamu the armor (pinned) Yin the penangalan (pinned) Toshiro the daimyo (pinned) Master of the path (Yan Lo Crew, ashigaru pro painted, rest of crew primed, 2ed cards printed by us) Open graves (Nicodem Crew, pro based, primed) Body of evidence (McMourning Crew, pro based, primed) + 2 canine remains Shadow of Redchapel (Seamus Crew, pro based, primed) + 3 rotten belles 2ED Strategies & Schemes deck Bad Ink Fate Deck Upgrades from 2ED Generalist Upgrade Deck #1 Tape measure Resurrectionist Arsenal Deck PRICE: Looking for £200 + shipping or reasonable offer ---------------------------------------------------------------------- GREMLINS: Assembled, not based, with original box: The Kin (Ophelia Crew) Hogwild (Ulix Crew) Explosive solutions (Wong Crew) The bushwackers (Mah Tucket Crew) Bayou boss (Somer Crew) Creative taxidermy Pigapult Bayou gremlins Gracie The sow War pig Rooster riders Bayou gators Piglets Merris Slop haulers Sammy Lacroix Old cranky Burt Jebsen 2ED Strategies & Schemes deck Bad Ink Fate Deck Upgrades from 2ED Generalist Upgrade Deck #1 Tape measure PRICE: Looking for £200 + shipping or reasonable offer Feel free to contact me for any questions or extra pictures. Thanks!

Toshiro isn't needed, and I would say that Yin is not that important on Kirai. Izamu is a better element. I would buy a box of Night Terrors (highly advised) and maybe some drowned (as stated above, very useful but not necessary), this should put you in a good spot. Obviously there are many other things that can be useful (Jakuuna for example) but as 'core' group you are good to go.

I should have probably said that it is very humid for me when compared to other places I lived in, so I wanted to know if humidity here is an issue with the paints, but you answered already to that =) Thanks! I consider myself a total beginner so I will take into consideration the Rosmary & Co series. I am a little bit disappointed in hearing that you had problems with Scale75... I guess I was a little bit hyped about the fact that they are easily available here in Europe (when I was living in the US they were fairly out of reach). Thanks for your advice! Sorry but I actually chuckled at the primer making the surface water repellent when the main point of priming the model is for the paint to stick to the minis =) So far it seems that Vallejo is still a very good choice (especially VMC and not VGC). GW washes seems to be good as well W&N or Rosmary & Co are good brands for brushes. NEED TO BUY BRUSH SOAP (thanks for the advice again)

Hello guys, first of all a bried introduction: Both my wife and I play Malifaux and we own Ressurrectionists and Gremlins. I would like to paint these two crews in the official colors (the one that you can see in the boxes/pictures). I have already meddled for a bit with painting miniatures, but I would like to make it my main hobby. Since I am new to painting, I would like to receive some insight taking also into account that: - I have recently relocated to Cambridge UK and the weather here seems to be quite humid; - I will need to buy everything (E V E R Y T H I N G); - my starting budget is 350/400 pounds. - I don't need to spend the entire budget(note of the wife =P) PRIMING: Spray Can or Airbrush? Owned a Neo Iwata for priming/base coating/bases spray and it was ok. I can spray outdoors if needed, but I would rather work in my hobby room inside the house. I like the idea of colored primers (Army Painter) but are they worth it? Which primer? Vallejo (which I already used on the NEO Iwata) didn't strike me as the perfect primer, but it was good, kind of matte finish and rubberish on touch what about Badger primers or the Army Painter colored primers? BRUSHES: I was planning to buy the winsor and newton series 7 (#1 and #0) and a bunch of cheap ones for other harsh uses. PAINT: I know that on this matter everyone has a subjective opinion, but which one would you suggest taking into account: - the humidity of the place - the fact that I would like to paint my models as close as the original colors - the fact that I like matte finish - possibily basecoating with airbrush Any other advice/suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

As I moved to the european side of the pond, I had to sell all my colors, brushes, airbrush etc... Back to square one, it is though but it offers a fresh start. I would like to get back to this (costly) hobby, but this time I would like some feedback before I commit to purchases. My previous experience was with Vallejo Model Colors, Vallejo Primers and Neo Iwata Airbrush (just a starter one since I've never had any experience) used more for priming/basecoating/basing and basic/mid level brushes. PROS with what I had: Nice range of colors, Solid primers, cheap airbrush to get "the job done" CONS with what I had: Colors needed to be shaken a lot due to separation, problems of consistency when tinning colors for the airbrush, airbrush not always consistent when spraying (easily clogged/dried paint even after thinning). I am a newbie and I recognize I absolutely need more painting practice but having worked for years as assistant photographer/graphic designer I have a good knowledge about color theory and such. In my (little) painting experience I prefer paints that have a matte finish (I really don't like shiny miniatures) but I would like to have some feedback from you awesome painters on what types/brands you use and why you chose it: What paints do you use and why did you choose them? What are their pros and cons? What primer and why? What washes/pigments? What airbrush if you have one? (I was thinking about the H&S Evolution that is a step up form the Neo Iwata but still not as expensive as the professional ones) Thanks!

As mentioned in one of my last posts, my wife and I had to move to the other side of the pond, the result was that I kept my Resser faction, she sold her Arcanists. Now that we are coming back to Malifaux, she has the possibility to start a new faction and she is VERY undecided if she should start Arcanists again or play as a big mama in the bayou (hahaha she is going to kill me... ). Generally this is the rating she gives to the two factions: Arcanists: Miniatures 8: she liked the sculpts and "mechanical spiders FTW!" Theme 8: she liked the steampunk theme, even though Rasputina and Marcus are a little "off" Gameplay 8.5: she really found herself liking the solid and fitting gameplay almost mastering Ramos after a few games. Gremlins: Miniatures 8.5: PIIIIIG CATAPUUUUUULT!!! she loves all the minis here Theme 9: Bayou inside, constant silliness, and funny to just watch Gameplay ?: Never played so nothing available here. The problem here is that there is a strong preference currently, for her (and me as well) to buy the Gremlins, but since she will play vs myself and the Resser faction 90% of the time, is it a good idea? Or blinded by the amazing green, will she be upset (and will I be as well ) to find herself in a constant bad matchup? What are your thoughts? Thanks for the help!

Hello everyone, We are moving overseas (from the US to the UK) because of real life, jobs and all of that. This means that we are getting rid of 95% of our stuff and my wife said that has to include the miniatures I have put things up on ebay, but I'd rather sell to fellow Wyrd-ers so let me know if anything looks interesting I am selling: Lots of vallejo colors (53) + stuff: here Airbrush + compressor: here Resurrectionist Lot: here Arcanist Lot: here Half painted Pandora box: here Half assebled Somer box: here Thanks! MrG (and the evil Wife)

This is a very fine job... Congratulations, I'm very impressed! Question: I noticed black lines on the edges of single items like gloves, shoes, belt etc... where they come from? Is that a wash a black priming that you left visible on purpose or did you draw them after with the brush? Very curious because I like that effect. Thanks, MrG

A W E S O M E ! Thank you =]

Hello guys and thanks for all your feedback! First things first, I watched the video and to be honest that guy seemed to be a little bitter toward the airbrush to begin with. It isn't true that the airbrush (an entry level) is very expensive, otherwise I wouldn't have thought of getting one. With <$100 one can get an entry level airbrush AND a small compressor. Does it cost more than a brush? Sure! I'm totally new to the whole miniature painting world, but my background is an artistic one. I worked for some years in a photography/advertising studio and this gives me an edge on the painting since "I think I know how this stuff works" I also learned that sometimes you need to use the tool the gets the job done and that you need to balance results over time invested. I'm still experimenting with different techniques using brush and airbrush and I decided that I shouldn't set myself any artificial limitations at least for now, while I'm still searching for my personal painting style. I even thought that it would be awesome to try to paint even the fine details with the airbrush. I'll probably try that at some point even though I suspect I might not like it. On the other side, the brush, the wet palette, the retardant for wet blending are also other tools that I'm using in my numerous test/stripping/test sequences. I agree when monkeyboy says: "when a person can create smoother blending with a brush, I think that's more highly commendable that when one creates a smooth blend with an airbrush" and I'm sure that a judge in a competition will think the same way, but how much it will impact my gameplay? Or if using an airbrush gets me closer to the look I am trying to achieve? I see the airbrush as another tool in the belt of the perfect miniature painter. Is it the perfect tool for everything? Absolutely not by a far margin, but it is a useful tool that goes beyond the basecoat or the priming. Certainly it is not going to replace brushes or proper techniques with them, but it can do some things well and I don't think it is just a "cheap way" to obtain good results. I am still trying to find my style of painting and I'm sure it will change over the course of the years. For now I want to live up to something that my wife once told me: "Instead of being a Jack of all Trades but master of none, you should be Proficient in Everything" =P Thanks again for the insights, please keep them coming since I think about all of you as my mentors... A big community of mentors, I like that. G

I started playing actively Malifaux 2-3 months ago and I switched from Neverborn (Pandora) to Resurrectionists (ALL OF THEM!) because I like more the fluff and the gameplay. When I started reading the previous closed thread and then this one, I felt like someone was complaining about the beauty of my belles. "Blasphemy!" I said, while my first thought was: "Here we are, someone lost to a good tactic and now is rage-quitting." Now, I still don't think that the Belle is an OP model, but I can see how a Belles spam can be a problem. Changing the model because of one tactic can hurt badly those who don't use that tactic, but run the Belles in limited quantity. Putting a "Rare X" on minions models that can be summoned affects also the summoner (especially if it is the only model one can summon), and all the Resurrectionists are in way or the other summoners. Moreover, I really would like to understand how the Belles spam is pulled off. I don't think it is impossible but I don't think that is as easy as this discussion claims. It's going to involve cheating more than once (I'm unlucky enough to flip three 3s on 3 lures), the use of the whole turn and probably the whole crew to kill one model (?). All of this has to align with the astral conjunction that the opponent doesn't do anything at all. Is it "that" easy? I'm really trying to understand and I would like to see less theory and more practical examples .

I would sell them painted, especially since it is the old metal crew box There are people (like myself) that are waiting for the new models to come out but wouldn't mind buying an old set, but only if painted well. I thought could be a good thing to sell them on eBay, but both @Bruglyother and yourself suggest to bypass it. I would like myself to know why. Did you have bad experiences? Is it not worth it? EDIT: grammar

Agree with everyone, these models look fantastic. Love the retro look, to be honest, I might steal the idea... :-P

That is an understatement, having god-like skills shouldn't be allowed... =P I think this is one of the best "new" painted Rasputina I've seen. Kudos to you. *Goes back in the corner and starts to cry*

AWESOME! All your work is wonderful. I really like the Infinity model, especially the hair! Love the color and the transition!

@zfiend: I used a mix of Airbrush for the big parts and brushes for small parts, highlights, shadows and details. After lurking on this forum for almost 1 month, and having read/watched thousands of guides on the web I decided it was time to start painting, so I decided for this process: AIRBRUSH TIME! - Black priming - Tiny coat of white priming to get the idea of the highlights - Grey basecoat - Black dry pigment (with a brush) on the back of the neck, armpits and chest - varnish to fix the pigment - started mixing the basecoat color with a flat green and black in different combinations and divided the mini in section trying to overlap the colors in a way that looked smooth. To be honest having a background in photography and retouching helps a lot with colors so I wanted to challenge myself with blending right from the start. Basecoat / Flat Green - 3 / 1 Basecoat / Flat Green - 2 / 1 Flat Green Flat Green / Black - don't remember I think I eyeballed that one. BRUSH TIME! - Painted flames matching the gradient on the body (less coats since it was a very small part) - Highlights on body and arms - eyes, mouth, nails and highlights The minis on this forum (and the community so far) are amazing, I think I can learn a lot more sticking around while being an active contributor at the same time =)

These minis look fantastic! I really like your choice of tones for Pandora's hair, care to share what colors you used? I agree with the others, the carpet seems to be a tiny flat and what I notice it's that my attention is drawn from the model to the rug. BTW you are here to steal others' painters secrets, why do you think I'm here for? ]

Love them! That lamp... Awesome!

@Viruk: thank you! I followed your advice and now eyes, teeth and nailS look more like bones and less artificial. I'll keep this in mind for the next miniatures. @Wing: I think I'll follow your advice and varnish this one and move on the next mini. I hope I will get something ready to show in the next couple of days. Thank you to all of you!

Thank you guys for the compliments! I really wasn't expecting that. It is true that it is my first miniature, but obviously it has taken a lot of work and time. I'm very slow. @monkeyboy30672: I was thinking of creating something for the bases as soon as I finish the whole crew, so I do all of them in one pass. Btw yours are very nice models! I love that Ice Golem! I'm honestly not sure on how to proceed next. Should I make the highlights stronger? Should I add more shadows? If so should I use a wash? The problem is that I find this model has very few crevices, the body is very "flat" with just a few bumps so when I wash I risk to darken the whole model without having the shadow effect. Any suggestions?

Hello, I have finally convinced my wife to play Malifaux with me (it only took a year and a half.. ) and have now started painting our miniatures. Here is the first miniature I have ever painted: Pandora's Poltergeist. Since I am working on getting better at doing highlights/lowlights, what is your suggestion for this miniature? How would you proceed from here? What am I missing? Thanks! MrG