Trax

From bottom of the base to the highest point of the model (right wing), the metal Nekima is about 80mm tall, if that helps.

What about the original metal one? To frail or something? Because I've yet to see a more fitting model. The model is still in stock in multiple places in Germany and will surely deliver the stuff to Denmark as well, if that's what's holding you back. The two mentioned models don't look Neverborn-ish to me whatsoever, not even Malifaux-ish, that is, and would stick out in a bad way (in my eyes at least).

They are beasts.

Most Neverborn players will get the Wave 2 pack, I guess, and since you're doubling up on stat cards if you buy the new models, you'll likely get some willing traders - that aside, I don't see any way to get them, but it'll probably cost you p&p and hardly anything more. At least I can't think of anything you can do with the stat cards you have duplicates of.

The point is, the miniatures are an abstraction of the mathematical ideal. We cannot play with distances of zero, that's why we play *as if they were* zero. Contact means the smallest possible distance between two things. The smallest possible distance is not an infinitesimal small amount, but 0 . Without this approximation, there's no base contact by your definition. For the purpose of gaming, contact *has* to be distance 0, and 3" *has* to be 3" (and not 3" + infinitesimal small something), otherwise you end up with Zeno's paradox of Achilles and the tortoise. I already feel like I took the greatest troll-bait ever, but it's too late now...

Now we're getting silly. Like, seriously. As per your definition of "contact", there is no contact in the world of miniature gaming, then. If one of your models gets struck by Barbaros' Cyclone Crush and gets thrown against a wall that's 2" behind its back, do you argue that it doesn't get the Slow condition since it can't end up in contact with the wall, because the model and the wall "don't share the same space"? With your reasoning, this ability could never procc, since no model is in contact with anything ever. I mean, like, technically. Next think of the Lure action and what the FAQ says about it: It's not allowed to move a model with Lure if the Lurer and the target are already in base contact. Why would that be, if there was any kind of distance between them? And that's it, I'm at my wits' end, I can't find any more arguments for someone who defines contact as "some small distance between two things". We're playing with miniatures here, not with abstract geometric figures and shapes.

While the problem is really "solved" for Malifaux (since it's explicitly written in the rules), there's no reason to mark people who *would* argue the definition of "within" if it *wasn't* in the rules. It's not about "winning a victory" or whatever nonsense you might want to call it, it's about a clear-cut rules definition that's notoriously lacking in other games' manuals. Every single Warhammer player I've played in my entire life agrees with the non-Malifaux definition of within - are all "those people" not worth playing? No, they just go by the convention. It's a question of definition, not of malevolence or whatnot, don't mistake those two. It's not like the arguing party would have an intrinsic advantage if they were right since it goes both ways. Let's just be happy that Wyrd actually put out some clearly written rules. @Al Shut I don't know what you're trying to achieve here, arguing for arguing's sake? "if a model is *at* a distance, it is *within* that distance." That's the rule. Do you really want to argue that some things that are *touching* each other are at a distance larger than 0?

That is really a great catch, Docschlock, and in light of this, there is really no case to be made for what I've been saying earlier here in Malifaux, thanks for the find, I did overlook that one. Oh, I wish, there were such notions in the rulebooks of certain other game designers... As for Alyce/Mei Feng: Yeah, walking there, pushing Alyce 3" and then still being able to swat her in the face seems to be according to the rules.

For what it's worth, I see it differently. This is just a special case of a measurement problem that permeates all of table-top gaming, and it's a way bigger problem in Warhammer for instance (loads of stuff has a range of 24" and that's the standard starting distance for encounters): If two units/models start at a distance of x inches, any measurements of x inch to the opposing model will fall short an infinitesimal small amount. That's the concensus "there" - the situation is exactly the same as here with Malifaux though and I know the arguments for both sides, but in the end, it falls down to a consensual definition of it. As a "special" argument specific to Malifaux: I don't think it's coincidental that (for instance) Fuhatsu's push is 3". This way, he gets out of the range of pretty much every melee engagement, and I think that's on purpose, but alas, this is pretty much interpreting the designers' thoughts, and thus, moot, but take it as food for thought. Whatever it may be: I was just chiming in to say, that not all players might follow the way here presented. I certainly don't (for no tabletop game, that is).

The only problem with the books is the weight, I think, so decks should be okay, although I haven't ordered any decks last year (Germany).

i have no personal experience with the stuff I'm going to "recommend", but maybe someone else can comment on this (and proof me wrong^^ - or not!): I wouldn't carve any lines in the arms. This will not come of very natural in terms of charring scars I guess and Malifaux miniatures are delicate as is, making this procedure pretty hard anyway. What I'd try is using a crackle medium (like GW's technical Agrellan Earth which can be tinted - but I'm sure there are others out there for a cheaper price/better for tinting). So you could go for a green base color (whatever color you want to shine through) and then apply the tinted technical paint as second layer. The technical will crack and boom, charred skin with green undertone. Like I said, take this with a grain of salt since it's all theoretical and I think the medium might make the paint too thick, but that's what I'd try if I was going for such an effect.

No waffling at all, much appreciated and will yoink some of it for my own upcoming projects, thanks.

Awesome work here, congrats on the great minis. How did you achieve the nice blendings? Glazes? I'd love if you can elaborate a bit on that, thanks.

I own and still use one for Malifaux, too, and everything Fox said is completely true, but true to the meaning of the word, I would say it is *no* hardcase. It's firm and the card board box make it practically a hard case, but the bag itself isn't (but it doesn't need to with the card case).