sproutchu

We could answer your questions one by one, but then others will emerge. There's two things you'll want to do when you begin. First, when you buy a model (from either Graffam or Fat Dragon for example), they come with a guide on how to build your paper models. It is a general guide that gives tips and tricks and are a very useful read. The other thing you might want to do is go on the Cardboard Warriors forum. There is a section called " PRINTING, BUILDING, FINISHING and STORAGE" where there's a ton of tips and solutions should you run into any problem, and it is a very nice community, feel free to introduce yourself Fat Dragon have their own forum with more specific info on their model, and many users are registered on both forums. A few tips to remember : 1- A cutting mat, hobby knife and metal ruler are your best friends. 2- Glue is always a big concern and everyone has his/her preference. Something with low water content is better. Personally, I use a combination of glue sticks (those for kids, yup!) for the bigger surfaces or basing ground tiles, tacky glue (Scotch, Aileen, Elmer's, at this point I think it's pretty much like beer, everyone has a preference but the actual difference is hard to identify) for tabs, and a bit of super glue (the one in gel for me) for touch ups, or to affix parts like dormers on roofs and small pillars and wooden beams. 3- For better visual results, try to do some edging. This is explained in the Beginner's guides. Essentially, use a felt marker (grey, dark grey is probably your best bet, as black tends to stand out too much and give a more cartoonish result) on the edges of the cardstock you cut or score, so that the white is turned to grey, or whatever the color you use. It adds 5-10 minutes to your build and is well worth it. 4- Use foamcore for basing and floors. This is something I do not always do for buildings, but my ground tiles are all based on foamcore. Again, this is one of many options, but I think it is a good compromise between sturdyness, price and ease to work with. Foamcore boards can be found in office supplies stores, craft stores, big discount stores, and they are relatively cheap. They are essentially a layer of foam sandwiched between two sheets of cardstock. For ground tiles, you could even print on sticker paper then transfer it to the foamcore. If you use cardstock as I do, use glue sticks or spray glue, for their lower water content. Even tacky glue contains a bit too much for that and it could warp your tiles. For the buildings, it depends what you want. I prefer to have them sit directly on the ground tiles, as they blend a little better. I could base them on foam core for a bit more sturdyness, but then you would see the black foam (or white if you bought it white) on the sides. For some upper level floors though, it might be worth it to avoid having a trempoline effect on these floors. 5- Now, printers. Inkjet is the most commonly used, and certainly does a great job (as you can see above). No problem there. But know that your ink cartridges will empty faster than you might think possible, so print what you need and are able to build in a short amount of time. Laser printers may be an option, but you have to be careful as not all of them will be able to handle the thickness of cardstock. As opposed to inkjet, laser printers use toner that is electrically charged and "cured" in the printer. For the cheaper laser printers, the inner system cannot handle the thickness of cardstock and the toner will not properly "cure", resulting in a messy sheet and an angry man. Another option, that I've seen some modelers go for, is to have their files printed in an office supplies store (on cardstock). Considering the price of the cartridges, it ends up costing about the same (I think, not sure here) and you don't overuse your home printer. Enough already, I'm reaching the novella-sized post.

They are actually really sturdy if you print on cardstock (110 lbs generic cardstock found in office supplies stores), and this way is also the quickest way to build, having "only" tu cut, score, fold and glue. They are very lightweight, true, but so are the minis (the plastic ones at least). My recommandation, build two or three (small, big, tall) and see if you think ballast is needed. If it is, pretty much anything heavy like scraps of wood or layers of newspapers can be glued at the bottom. Already based ? No problem, cut a hole underneath, and put the weight inside. Remember, when the time comes to carry/store the whole setup, the light weight of it all suddenly becomes a great asset!

Well, I'm almost done with the custom board, I started a new thread in Miniatures Showcase : http://wyrd-games.net/community/topic/99491-puppet-wars-custom-board-and-elements/

Puppet Wars Unstitched is quickly becoming my favorite board game, with incredibly fun gameplay and puppet powers that infuse them with personnality and all. BUT. There was something bothering me. The miniatures are fantastic (not even painted yet), the theme is great, but despite a great layout , the cardboard board didn't really convey the atmosphere for me, and the tokens, which appeared nice in my hands, are barely visible on the dark yet highly light reflecting board. And I found a nice hardware suitcase with foam inside, perfect to carry the lot, but the darn board wouldn't fit in it (by less than 1/2 inch...). Very well, I thought, those two hands of yours managed to assemble 44 minis on custom bases, right ? Then maybe they're good for a custom board. I ordered 175 50mm lasercut plywood hexes, bought two 36"x36" felt sheets and got to work. Basically, I made a larger than original board divided in 4 pannels that can be stored in the suitcase with the minis, plus additional, smaller pannels to expand the board for more players and/or puppets, as a simple shoebox-size game can already get crowded. And these pannels can be positionned to alter the original hexagon board for different game setups (corridors, islands, forts, name it), all this complemented with custom workbenches and impassable terrain. Here's the result. As you can see, I glued felt under all the hex pannels. The main board is divided in four large parts, and the rest are 3 or 4-hex pannels. Using the second black felt sheet as a tablecloth, it achieves two things. First, felt on felt doesn't slide and everythings stays put, while still being light and foldable (I thought about using magnets, but it was inconclusive). Second, and that was not expected, it gives a uniform, black matte background so that everything else seems so much brighter. True, it lacks all the graphic goodies there are on the original board, but in terms of visibility and playability (it is larger than the original), I think it is better that way. And you really have a feeling of playing live puppets on a wooden floor or desk with the spools and the small wooden work benches. Anyway, I thought I'd show this work of love from a fan who can't get enough

It depends how much time you invested already in basing/painting the minis. If you didn't do much, the Unstitched version has : 1- A box full with 44 miniatures, all nicely detailed (I think the original came with 18 IIRC, before the expansions that is) 2- From what I read, much sleeker rules 3- a larger playing board 4- Less markers (you can print them, they are available here on the forum) Personnaly, I love my unstitched box

Some parts will be available sooner, the way I understand it, starting in april. The guy (Tom) has to work on a LOT of stretch goals too, but in the past has delivered what was promised and then some. If only to get all those stretch goal rewards in due time, I think it is more than worth the wait. BTW, only 14 hours left for those interested !

Been done with Misaki last december but I never posted pics. You will excuse the poor qulity of the picture, the only camera I have that works correctly is an old 6mp with a telephoto lens, which is not ideal for macro pictures After having built some paper terrain, this week I'm back at painting. I intend to use a dark red and black main theme for the Torakage and Ototo, but I'm still not convinced of the colors for highlights and sub-theme. Misaki has this turquoise color I used, but I'm looking for something less flashy for the Torakage (they're basically ninjas, so subtelty is the key) and something more aggressive for Ototo (seeing the pose, we can understand why). Any suggestion ?

For those interested, Tom from Fat Dragon Games added a new stretch goal that I thought might interest players here : a Steampunk accessory set and layer add-ons for Ravenfell. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1679800548/ravenfell-28mm-fantasy-village/posts/742345 By the way, they're in the last week of their KS

Having put Misaki beside another 28mm-based paper building, it pretty much made no difference. But yes, Malifaux miniatures are 32mm.

Added a few buildings to the village in construction, here they are : Working on some elevated roads these days, then will attack a cemetary.

Samll update on the KS : they reached $36,000 yesterday, and the goodies keep coming.

Oooh, very nice painting! Makes me want to start on mine too, now that the physical setup is pretty much complete (basing, and some tokens replaced for better viewing on the board).

hehe ! Thanks 50 cents each at Walmart, all the colors you want, many sizes. The board being quite dark, I found it difficult to see the impassable terrain markers. Same goes with the neutral work benches, I'll figure something out. Have laser cut wood hexes coming too (150), because the board won't fit in the case. It might be easier to see the work benches on the paler wood. Worst case scenario, I'll just paint some hexes with a bench symbol and use only the colored tokens when a team appropriates itself one of them.

Here are a few pics of the setup, case included. You don't get to see all the puppets, but that will have to wait for a better camera The board and case : A closer look (and blurrier) at Lady Justice's team :

** First, I don't want to offend anyone and don't know if it's ok to talk about companies, even small ones, who are in direct competition with a partner of Wyrd's. If I in any way broke a rule of some sorts, please accept my apologies and remove this post. ** I don't know if many of you use cardstock PnP buildings for your games, but I personnaly love them. Bought a few peices from WorldWorksGames, then Dave Graffam, Fat Dragon Games and Lord Zsezse. Have to say they're all great for what they do. For those who don't know them, WWG has the most complex models with tons of bits and pieces, but their playable interiors are awesome. DG and FDG are also great with very nice textures and stuff that's generally easier to build. As for Lord Z, he seems to have fewer models, but his Elven Mill is simply out of this world. Now, I saw last week that Fat Dragon Games is having a Kickstarter campaign for a new set, and seeing the quality of their past work, it is going to be an incredible addition. So, for those of you interested, here's the link : https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1679800548/ravenfell-28mm-fantasy-village They already reached their funding objective and are now moving toward the higher stretch rewards. FYI, I pledged at Duke level, giving sewers, ruins, watermill, windmill, plus the core sets.