nagash13

I can reach it because i am 6 foot tall.

that paint space is only that uncluttered because that left half of the table is where i had all the paint bottles before. it will soon become my painting queue of primered models waiting to be painted. also, the painting table is not as cluttered because i have a corner section attached to my computer table that has all my assembly materials, tools, glue, resin bases, basing materials, 2 of my bitz boxes, sheets of plasticard, plasticard/brass tubing, brass/aluminum rods, and other goodies.

so i decided to organize my paints, and build a rack to store them all in. now its easy to find the paint i want, and frees up a ton of space on my painting desk.

the tall bottles on the top half are my airbrush paints. the rest is a GW mega paint set with a few old favorites added in as well.

i happen to have one of the second models sitting in a box on my desk(unopened). it may go up on ebay soon.

I have so much 40k stuff, that i have a huge painting backlog. I recently bought a chunk of malifaux(3 starter boxes and a few other boxes during gencon) and i bought nearly everything in the deadzone kickstarter(first half of the models recently arrived)

so my goal for the year, is for every new vehicle/large model/unit i buy, I must paint it, as well as one vehicle/unit/large model/malifaux master box, before i buy anything else.

the goal is to slow my new purchases, while also denting my well of projects. first challenge will be when GW releases tyranids, my first 40k army.

if you glue magnets to the bottom of the bases, and set them up in a metal toolbox/tackle box, they will not move at all, and therefore never break any bits. I have been gaming and transporting model in foam trays for the last 12 years. no plastic model assembled with plastic cement, has ever come apart in transport, and i have never snapped off any parts.

are you transporting your models to gaming in a bucket and offroading to get to the store?

lots of people are having trouble uploading photos. I created a photobucket account, and you can link to those very easy.

I like it. looks pretty darn good to me.

ok i love this. instantly i see the scene from crouching tiger hidden dragon where they are running through the bamboo forest up in the bamboo.

ive seen the little white flowers on the base before, but forget who makes them or where to buy them. do you remember either of those?

i really dont know what you are doing to break plastics. are you using superglue or plastic cement?

and wyrd has said they are done with metals and plastic is here to stay.

thanks for the giant closeup pics. I honestly never noticed that they have 3 eyes per side of the face. i think i like them more for that.

well you could do the sorrows in a blueish grey with glowing purple eyes, or you could pick something opposite on the colorwheel to make them stand out but not clash..... yellowish should work for that.

I too complained that the rulebook and boxes were all artwork and no actual painted photos.

then nathan explained in one of the posts back then why that was.

a company would need to sculpt the model, send the file off to the mold makers, then have the first run of plastics shot, then shipped to wyrd, then hire a painter/paint dept to assemble and paint the model, then have a photographer come in and shoot photos of the models, then design the new boxes, then send the box design to printers, once that comes back, then and only then, could wyrd start selling the models.

that is a lot of steps and people to pay before seeing any return on investment. not to mention, wyrd has to warehouse all the models from the first run while waiting for the process.

to do photos in a rulebook you have to keep a full set of painted models, which requires a painting dept. to be hired, and you often end up with old models in the book. wyrd is in the process of resculpting all the models into plastic, so any photos in the M2E book would have immediately been outdated models.

they way its done now, the art dept sends out art to the sculptors and box designers. box designers and sculptors work their magic. when the sculptor has a 3d render, they pass that to the box dept, and they can start running boxes while the model molds get cut and the first shots are done. this reduces the time from concept to sellable product, as well as the upfront investment needed before seeing any return on the investment.

i think with time(and more practice in plastic for malifaux players), we will see people start to go away from putting the models together exactly how the directions say.

coming from a warhammer background, where a single unit can be 50 models all lined up, if they all have the exact same pose, it gets boring. so we start changing things up. as you get more confident with green stuff, you can remove any keys, and change the angle parts go together. for example, without looking at the model, you could cut and change the angle of the brass arachnid legs. have some lifted up reaching forwards, some on the ground pushing back, you know like when an actual spider walks. the easiest mods are cutting a models hand and weapon off at the wrist, then rotating it slightly, gluing it back on, and smoothing out any damage done to get a personal model different from everyone else.

did you add any counterweights under the death marshall's base? even for a plastic that looks like it would be super tippy.

i was able to put the zombie chihuahua together with no troubles at all. it is by far the smallest multi part model I have ever assembled. the key is to take your time, carefully remove mold lines with light scratching motion of a exacto held perpendicular to the surface. then dry fit the pieces to ensure you know they fit, which is the correct facing etc., lastly stay away from superglue on plastics. use plastic cement. if you dont have the model masters testors plastic cement with the super thin applicator tube available to you, then use a toothpick or metal pin to apply the plastic cement to one side of the small pieces. less is more.

once dry it is far stronger than brittle superglue as it is chemically bonded into a single piece.

I think these complaints are a combination of a few factors. wyrd is experiencing 2 kinds of growing pains, first medium change from metal to plastic which has different capabilities, bendability, as well as fragility. second a change in the method of sculpting from old fashion putty around an armature to digital. thirdly you have a fanbase that is largely practiced in assembling only metal models.

I know i have an advantage in that i joined wyrd after assembling over 1000 plastic minis for another game company(8 armies averaging 150-250 models each rounded to a simple number).

I am absolutely loving the new plastics. great detail, and almost all joints are keyed or cut to only fit one way. if you take your time and remove mold lines and do test dry fits before adding glue, there should be zero problems. also using plastic cement over superglue makes a huge difference when working with plastics.

I have probably over 1000 plastic models from a few games. I store all of them in foam trays and then stack the trays in either a army case for that foam, or in the instance of larger armies i just stack the foam in storage bins. the only models that have arrived at gaming with a broken bit are old metal models.

if you dont mind investing in your storage, i highly recommend this company :

http://us.battlefoam.com/categories/Malifaux-Bags-and-Foam-Trays/

others put magnet strips(think the slightly bendy refrigerator magnets) on the bottom of bases, and then carry their army in a metal toolbox. needs to be steel as the magnets dont stick to aluminum and stainless steel is weaker than powder coated steel.

oh you had eye surgery? was it a lasik style surgery? I had that done, and my god best money i ever spent in my life.

you know you are a dork when the doc asks if there is anything he can do to make you feel more relaxed and with a deadpan straight face you answer with "when the laser cuts the flap, can it make a light saber noise and then when the machine is doing the laser shots to re-sculpt my cornea, can it make blaster noises like the walkers on hoth?"

poor doc couldn't tell if was serious or joking.

working on the nurses now. are you talking about the big syringe one or the one with 2 syringes?

what if you used a bit of slate or cork to create some overhang past the base edge and have the model perched on that?

you are able to paint and wash over the top of clear coat. in fact i highly recommend you glos varnish a model before you wash it, as this helps reduce surface tension and allows the wash to really flow into the recesses and along cracks(like the coffins). when done, just add a new clear coat to seal it again. i like to use a matte finish as the final coat, but some people go with a satin(semi gloss) because they feel a matte will dull down highlights and sometimes even "frost" the model when not done right or in poor weather conditions.

interesting. if i left click on the photo i get just a thumbnail, but if i right click, and select open in a new tab, i get your photobucket with full size photos.

the snake pattern is very impressive. love the Cerberus pattern as well, but i see what mako means about the heads disappearing into the body.

interesting concept.

small pics are small. i need pics i can biggify

I picked up Testors Clear Glue for Cockpits and I am not a fan. It dried very much like the glue that holds advertisements in magazines, meaning when I touched the model it fell apart like I was watching a cartoon.

this makes me a sad panda

what glue for clear plastics? who makes it?

my google-fu was strong today, i give you:

http://www.testors.com/product/136938/8876C/_/Clear_Parts_Cement_Window_Maker