MaliHaux

I just realized I had these posted on my FB & G+ stuff, but not on the actual Malifaux site and that seemed backwards! So heres a little Resurrectionist love. The bases are just apoxie sculpt and a press mold from a silicone trivet that had a honey comb pattern- it took alot of hand smoothing to get the 'grout lines' to a reasonable size as they were too wide off the origianl press. But it turned out OK. Just more work than I had hoped. Just need to clean up the base rims and add some little junk and seal them- and fix the nurses shoes the red shoes get scratched up when I was getting them socketed to the bases. Which sucked because they have/had like 5 layers of shading... Did these guys tonight during The Walking Dead(Nicodem lives in Atlanta and is the cause of the whole outbreak!!) and a few hours after watching some friends RP online(D&D via webcam is a form of comedic entertainment!). But Im pretty happ with them for an evening of work. Need to work on the chubby dudes face a bit, and hit boots, the two zombie guys clothes need highlighting...Nicos legs and hat...bird....stick...belt... But I like the zombie chick. Even got her dress all dirty!

I think part of the problem is alot of people are used to the more robust plastic minis from the other games- and lets face it- the space dudes and steam bots are built much more like toys than models. The Malifaux stuff is more like a scale model- so the plastic just isnt going to hold up as well for gaming use or getting moved in and out of a case thats not heavily adapted to accomodate them. Theyre pretty awesome minis, I say learn to pin them, help Wyrd with useful feedback so they can fix problems and make better stuff. And if you dont like a product- don't buy it, do your research before you spend your money

Warm water was actually probably the worst thing to have tried. Water/mousture is what causes super/CA glues to cure, so if there was any uncured glue remaining on the lid-you probably set it in place What you need to do is make the glue more brittle than the plastic nozzle/cap its on. The easiest way to do that is freeze it. 15 or 20 minutes in the freezer, then gently twist the caps with some pliers. This should keep the cured glue from holding its bond on hte smooth plastic on the nozzle and cap material. In the future- make sure to always wipe off any un dried glue from the tip before screwing it back on. A little isnt a problem, but it adds up and if it cures fully- you discovered the results Depending on the amount left in the bottle, and if its still fluid, make sure its worth the effort of cracking open the lid and saving- nothing more annoying than getting it open to find out the glue inside has gone off- which commonly happens when the lid is all clumped up with glue since it usually doesnt seal very tight

Heat gun, even a hair drier on high heat should handle that unless its really thick stock. Just cut the shapes you want, a solid pair of scissors will do it. You can always glue layers of thinner card together rather than trying to fight trough cutting thicker stock. Anyways- cut your shapes out. Then, to get the wavy curves in them, get a couple of pencils, screw drivers, or whatever you can find thats round and wont melt- put those under the card stock and space them out a bit. When you heat the card up- it will soften and if it doesnt start to droop on. its own you can push it down gently between them. A few practice runs with some scrap pieces should get you the results you need ot get some good wavy cruves

Hello Wyrdlings I'm a long time wargamer and RPG nut. Been painting minis since the days before 40k was really a game and the Battletech box set came with card stock 'minis' On other game forums I go by MistressofMinis, and a few of you may have seen my blog(sporadic PP and 40k) or know me if you're in the G+ mini gaming groups. I finally took the plunge and now have a few starter boxes to paint up(sort of a random super bargain on ebay) and I've even got my previously non-gamer room mate to pick up a Rasputina crew