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Warboss Walton

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Everything posted by Warboss Walton

  1. So excited to hear about the third edition coming out! I've been out of the loop for Malifaux for sometime now, mainly because my buddies were tired of me "math-ing" them. I've been wanting to get back into the game but had been put off by a lot of the bloat I was seeing, and this third edition sounds like it's on the right track for keeping that in check.

  2. If you have your cards laminated, you can just write whatever the effect is on the relevant stat. I haven't found an urgent need for tokens, but I could see them being needed for Brawls.
  3. I run both Perdita and Lady J, and I was for awhile leaning on Lady J heavily b/c the guy I normally play was doing Resurrectionists. She beats the tar out of them, don't even worry about the low Df. Especially with that (2) Whatever it is that wounds everything Undead. Pull that off in the middle of a Rez army with a Cheat AND Soulstone and set that Duel Total above 20, and you can kiss most of your opponent's army goodbye. It's very satisfying! Now, if you're fighting AGAINST Lady J, one tactic that surprisingly worked with Perdita was to tie Lady J up with Santiago: Since he's Hard to Kill, he can theoretically hold out for some time, and although it sounds crazy, I started firing into the combat with Perdita. His Bulletproof can shirk off a little bit if Perdiat accidentally hits him, and if Perdita nails Lady J, that's when you pour on the Cheats and Ss and make her pay for that low Df.
  4. If you go with Lilith, you'll want to pick up a pack of Young Nephilim too so that when you mature your little Terror Tots you've got something that they can evolve into ("Terror-tu, I choose you!")
  5. Heehee. I was definately thinking Blazing Saddles the whole time, especially when you mentioned the cardboard people (It's a fake! We've been suckered in!) I do love this idea though, and you could easily get away from the one direction thing by shaping the layout of the buildings, so that it's like a fight around a corner block and what not. It would basically cut off a portion of the board, unless you really wanted to play up the freaky factor by actually having the guys fight on the backside of the facades. Heck, you could even let them take an Interact(2) to push it down ontop of your enemies on the other side!
  6. My gang uses a lot of those little prepainted cottages...the company name escapes me right now...but it's nice for settlements, and then I use lots of aquarium terrain for "badlands" style settings. But I would definately get some walls a rubble piles together. Unless you play Guild...then make the other players make the terrain (you don't need it!)
  7. I'm a strong supporter of Krylon primers; I've never had any problems with them getting "gritty" like Armoury or GW, and they cover really nicely. I'm not familiar with the primer that you picked up, but I would make sure that whatever paints you're using will go on top of it. Maybe just spray a piece of cardboard, let it dry, and then brush on a little design. If you find yourself at Walmart or Kmart, pick up some of the Red Krylon. This stuff is amazing, and I prime almost everything of mine in it. Good luck!
  8. I love that Outhouse of Doom idea. I've been trying to figure out what to do for a creepy structure, but it hasn't come up in our games any yet.
  9. That's a really nice job. I especially like the idea of printing on labels to get around any glue warping; I've had that problem all too often and welcome this creative solution. I can't wait to see what you do for your raised terrain. Are you going to do that in 12" square sections too, or go with 4 eighteen-inch squares?
  10. When I do dried blood, I alternate using crimson gore and dark flesh in a semi-drybrushing pattern. I say semi-drybrushing b/c I use an old splayed out brush and just lightly wipe it off on a paper towel, then go straight at the miniature with the flat "tip", and that usually gives me a nice splatter that is very controlled.
  11. I kind of do what divrg suggested, but I just use either my thumb (good and quick, and works well for faces) or a dry brush, that way you can actually move the wash where you want it. This includes when it gets on something that you don't want washed, like a high-point on a cloak or pouch.
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