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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/11/2016 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Hey all, I have had an amazing time working and volunteering with Wyrd and their many projects over the years. It is a company I really love and I'm proud of the work I've done with them. However, I am leaving to seek other exciting opportunities. I want all of you to know that I am still on very good terms with Wyrd and all of its staff. Very few people get to live the dream of making games for a living, so I definitely owe thanks to Nathan, Eric, Casey, and Vickey for allowing me the opportunity to spend time with this amazing company. Thanks, guys! Aaron, Mason, and Lindsey are all great people and great designers, and I really look forward to where they take Wyrd in the future. I'll miss all of you (I'll even forgive Mason for being a vulture). And myself and anyone else who enjoys actually being able to find Wyrd products at their store owes a big thanks to Kelly, Karen and all of the warehouse team who work so hard behind the scenes to make it all happen. Companies are nothing but a group of people with some common goals, and Wyrd has and always will be one of the best because it has some of the best people I've met. I also have to say thank you to our wonderful players and community. On the whole, the Malifaux community is one of the most open, supporting gaming communities I've ever seen. You are the reason Wyrd keeps going, and it is always exciting to get on the forums and see people talking about the things we've made, or even just chatting and making friends. Gaming is all about community, and Wyrd has an amazing one thanks to all of you. I won't be disappearing forever. After a few month hiatus from the forums (I've been eating, breathing, and sleeping Malifaux for the past few years - I need a break!) I fully intend to keep on posting, participating, and playing the game. I started out as an enthusiastic customer and being able to experience Malifaux again as a player who can just relax and enjoy the game is one of the things I'm most looking forward to. Aaron will be taking over lead Malifaux design. He has already designed many of the models you know and love (including Reva and her crew in the most recent book - which is the new Crew which has me the most personally excited to play) so the game is in competent hands. I look forward to seeing what he and the team come up with!
  2. 5 points
    We're plowing through them at a good rate this year - made some serious changes over the last few months which have really helped things along and should only get better in the future. Unless everything goes completely sideways, I expect most, if not all orders, to be out the door by next Monday.
  3. 4 points
    Here's a blog post on the Outcast models and upgrades coming in Ripples of Fate.
  4. 4 points
    You underestimate us. We`re doing a mad Malifaux Roadtrip!. 5 men, 1 car, a ton of miniatures, 16 hrs one way But of course thanks for the offer
  5. 3 points
    Here's a blog post taking a look at the new models coming for the Arcanists.
  6. 3 points
    It's intended. attacks create engagement which gets weird with a model which can attack while buried. And other things can reference Cg (such as things which push a model up to its Cg, etc.)
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
    I'm guessing you had something like this in mind v
  9. 2 points
    Now that I've switched over the 10T, I'll starting it off with a new series of battle reports. The first one is here.... https://schemesandstones.wordpress.com/2016/08/10/recalled-training-i-10t-battle-reports/
  10. 2 points
    Hereis my first warden. At firs I wanted to paint some onaments on the cape but at last decided to keep it simple to have a better batman-look
  11. 2 points
    I finally listened to the podcast. And, to be honest, I found it quite bad. It's riddled with weirdness and inaccuracies. I mean, take for example the idea that Skeeters can't ferry anything scary because it's limited to Ht 1. Raphael, Burt, Trixie, Pere Ravage(!!) - all are superscary in their own right. Getting to far away places and getting Fast is crazy. Raph with two Focused shots is really frigging scary. I'm sure everyone knows how scary Burt is. Trixie can either blow the enemies away or haul in all the big things that were left behind. And Pere Ravage can charge into melee and then blow up twice. It was a bizarre listen for sure.
  12. 2 points
    This sounds busted as hell, and I am so excited. Also, really just had to requote that cause a like isn't enough. Literally translated as black beast- One of the more overt linguistic constructions that highlights the legacy of colonial oppression combined with Aristotle's condemnation of intuition in the metaphor of the white horse of reason and the dark horse of intuition. While having avoided the Lone Swordsman for more resilient models, I will play Ohagura Bettari alot. This ability to charge without LoS will make her a perfect complement to my austringers... I feel this also really helps highlight our biggest design space as a faction- striking from the shadows, as we generally rely on opportunity and position as opposed to raw fire power, overwhelming numbers, etc...
  13. 2 points
    It would be a blank base. ? Seriously though it would be cool. The upgrade idea for Trappers is too much against fluff for me. Von Schill hates Guild iirc.
  14. 2 points
    Justin, you probably don't fully appreciate how loved you are by those of us who play Malifaux. We love you. I love you. We could not have asked some a better steward of the game, and you have done absolutely astounding work with M2E. I hope you will still continue to play the game, and continue to frequent the forums. Really sad I never made it over to gencon when I may have had the opportunity to meet you. All the best with whatever you do, no doubt it will be excellent.
  15. 2 points
    You can take the upgrade on all three mages to bring them down to 15 points.
  16. 2 points
    The cage is the only thing worth being intimidated by, but its worth noting that if push comes to shove, the prisoner is entirely optional. They are completely separate pieces. The prisoner just is molded to fit against the bars, no part of either is part of the other. Painting wise, there's definitely a way to paint inside prior to assembly. I'll see if I can get a picture later. Basically though its just the top ring of cage plus the left arm as one piece and the bottom 2 rings plus the rest of the prisoner. That should let you get to all the important bits and still put the two halves together cleanly.
  17. 2 points
    Not sure how you can think Blade and Claw is that bad, unless the range on it is super short or some other restrictions. That upgrade with Reactivating Howard + a raptor could be straight up broken. Raptor goes in, Howard 0's to it, nimble + Flurry something, reactivates, nimble + flurry something else, and if he's still in danger 0's back to the raptor. Could likely be 2 things dead with Howard in no danger, and could move the raptor or do it again (minus reactivate shenanigans) if you win initiative. And they had said there are 8 Arcanist cards in the new deck. Blade and Claw and Well Rehearsed are rare 1, so I'm guessing we get 3 of each of the other two.
  18. 2 points
    I think the boys are off on the Iron Skeeters ability to place markers. They put one down on any flip OTHER than a crow. 3/4 move actions ending in a smoke marker I'm thinking could end in a very crowded board.
  19. 2 points
    I have a confession guys.....I bought a third slate ridge mauler yesterday to reach the $60 LGS threshold. I think I have a bear problem.
  20. 2 points
    Ice Golem bad? No! Ice Golem smash! ... Sorry, I've been trying to resist but seeing this topic title in the active threads again and again finally eroded my resolve
  21. 2 points
    the mei Feng comment resonates with me, I find masters/crews fun where they do 'level out the pace of the game' as was said, a phrase I'd never considered before but definitely matches my experience. I love playing ironsides as she has no real 'gotchas' that I'd feel bad hitting someone with, at the same time her toolbox allows her a good shot vs most opponents. the opponents I prefer fighting are similar, justice, mah, Lilith, Schill, Seamus, Shen long. They all have a lot of utility but aren't going to end my game early, or prevent me having fun. This doesn't mean I never had fun vs other masters, but often I find myself using these as demo crews rather than crews with one shtick like Ramos or the viks.
  22. 2 points
    I just wanted to say thanks to Wyrd. I've just been able to purchase 10* individual upgrade cards and get them shipped to to Australia for $10. Thanks for listening Ladies & Gentlemen.
  23. 2 points
    Others have pretty much summed it up already...so I will just say good luck for the future whatever it holds.
  24. 2 points
    The essential problem for me, as he rarely sees my Raspy lists if ever and never anything not Raspy at all, is that he is a pure and simple damage dealing melee beatstick and in order to really do this properly you must take other models to make him really work. His damage output is impressive but he's slow and very easy to dink down with ranged and maybe a charge with his paltry Df2. Sure with his armor he often (Ignore Armor is a killer for him) takes only 1 dam but this adds up quick and with his Df you'll be finding it impossible to avoid damage completely even if you cheat 9/10. Because of his Df2 and low (in relation to his hit magnetism) wounds his Arm2 will not really protect him overly long without any healing or significant other defense (such as good Df triggers), if he survives past 3rd turn he is either being ignored or was lucky. He simply is not durable enough to be tanky. His throw is an interesting schtick but ultimately very niche (throwing Ht1 models). His huge damage output attack will (if it does not ambush an opponent) very, very rarely be used. Anything with the wounds to genuinely be at risk will do everything in there power to avoid being in his melee when he has yet to activate, its a 2AP melee, yeah you can zerg a low wound model but its an untoughed heavy hitter you want and they'll only close if they are confident of the alpha kill and with his low Df and Armor they can be pretty certain of this (or not and thus avoid him). Thus he needs Imbued energies and/or Snowstorm and/or Ice Dancers and/or The Captain at least one preferably two to really make him work. None of these models are cheap and all of them also buff other models equally. Additionally Snowstorm does some of what Ice Golem does anyway. Rasputina does amazing damage, extra raw damage is the lowest of her crew priorities, she needs speed. The Golem ain't that. For raw hit power the Blessed of December is faster and hits hard enough to make it count, she'll live longer or at least drain more resources to kill. Snowstorm adds good damage and is a much better defensive piece and buffs crew movement a real need. December Acolytes are cheaper, faster, more flexible, pack good ranged and are potentially vicious in melee. Outside Frozen Heart several Arcanist models are simply either faster and as killy (Cerebus or Howard) or more flexible and still killy (Joss and Cassandra for example) or cheaper and nearly as good (Slate Ridge with new buff, Rattler). So yeah, subject to any surprising upgrade or review the problem is you need to take other models with the Mega Popsicle to make him really work and not end up looking like an ice sculpture that has been attacked by a confused woodpecker. The problem is that these other models equally buff his superior alternatives anyway. What he brings (damage) Raspy's crew needs the least and other crews have viable alternatives. What her crew could use; speed or a really good tank damage soak he simply does not do well without significant support. Sad but true. You can use him, he is not useless or fatally flawed, but there are significant better options at the moment.
  25. 2 points
    Best of Luck Justin. Take that well earned break and it will be nice to see you back around as a player again in the future. As lead with M2E you have done great work and laid a solid foundation for things to follow and have left some big shoes to fill.
  26. 2 points
  27. 2 points
    Barbaros and Candy are very strong competitive options and absolutely do not need even the tiniest smidge of buffing. I don't play NB much any more, but when I do the most complained about model I use is Candy.
  28. 2 points
    See for me, Betty is a cruise missile type henchman, not unlike a Misaki or a Lone Swordsman. I don't expect her to live forever. I expect her to bully the opponent with choices of who they offer up to the Oni of Darkness. Her Flaying son has no competition unless another oni is around, and just works... which means you are almost always going to be able to cheat (barring impossible to wound or counterspell). Her threat range is obscene as well. Imagine you pop her into cover with a summons nearby. She activates, charges into something for 7", then ploughs through, and charging another 7". That's potentially 20" of movement ignoring intervening terrain and models, with a 2" reach. No triggers, and can cheat easily. Anything you want dead that doesn't have hard to kill is basically dead. It's absolutely card intensive, but I like that kind of high risk high reward. In a shen crew where she's given fast, you can potentially drop 18 damage on a Master with no ability for them to escape with triggers and only praying to the SS gods for help. I will absolutely pitch a hand of high cards and offer Black Betty's head on a silver platter if it takes out their Master. And remember, she costs as much as the Lone Swordsman as a henchman. That means stoning for that ploughed over trigger, or stoning to prevent damage. Her upgrade just makes this mean. And because she can hide in the shadows to avoid being targeted and STILL charge out destructively means she's going to stick around until you are ready to use her. Put recalled training (not really needed, but overkill is underrated) and death contract on her and then assume your best Sensei Yu pose and laugh. Or something like that
  29. 2 points
    Take a vacuum cleaner but use a pantyhose (or similar) to cover the nozzle - great for finding small parts lost in the carpet!
  30. 1 point
    I can't help myself pondering how Neverborn might achieve some better intrafaction balance, so I figured I'd start a discussion on it If you just think about how to make each model in the faction either less of an auto-take or more of a viable choice, and forget about whether the faction would be rendered too weak relative to other factions, what comes to mind? For an example of intrafaction models where we have rich choice, look at our scheme runners: -Terror tots, Gupps, Silurid, Insidious Madness, Effigy, Sorrows, and Puke Snake all see regular play, while changelings and corrupted hounds are sure to start cropping up But we have some models that just never show, because they're so rarely the right tool for the job relative to other pieces. Let's start with small buffs to some models I'd like to see more of: -Mature Neph - Bump to Df 5 to make him a bit more of a bruiser -Young Neph - Cg 9 to offset reach 1 -Bad Juju - Unimpeded -Sorrows - Df 4, Wk 4 -Baby Kade - Manipulative 14 (big bump) -Candy - Ca6 on her attacks -Lelu - Wk 6, No card cost for Lie in Wait -Beckoner - -1 SS, -1 Wd -Mysterious Emmisary - Armor +1 -Barbaros - 2/4/5 on his attack -Spawn Mother - Wisps may make her great. Not sure yet. Next, some cuddles to models to make them not auto-take, particularly in ways that avoid NPEs: -Doppelganger - uh oh. Remove initiative cheat There, I said it! -Pandora - Voices can't paralyze masters -Lilith - Tangle Shadows doesn't ignore LOS and/or can't target masters -Nekima - Remove Blood for Blood? It's super flavorful, but it jacks up HtK so much. She kinda kills everything atm. I dunno. -Waldgeists - My beloveds! Favorite models. But they are too good. Probably the biggest offender is the 4" engage. Reduce it to 3" Hate to mess with these. -Stitched - 3/4/6 curve. Severe against them should put them on htk exactly. Remember: these are top-of-head "musings", not super-thought-out What are yours? Ideas?
  31. 1 point
    Here's the blog post discussing the Guild's new models coming in the new books.
  32. 1 point
    Sorry for this needless topic, I just wanted to be happy and say, My first Malifaux stuff has finaly arrived! Ophelias The Kin, A box of Slop Haulers, And a Fate Deck. It arrived today, And I'l start trying to build this weekend. Dang the Gremlins are tiny! xD
  33. 1 point
    You can make it work on a 50, sort of. I've been using it as an Emissary proxy, and will probably mount a rider on it for Yasunori.
  34. 1 point
    And the discard cards, show hand thing is BETTER than bigger hat. You get to discard suits, see their hand and then can force them to use remaining high cards before Zipp activates again, or you can make them ditch them too. Bigger hat has to be used on a master, AND makes you lose your hand. Harder to get off, and has a big downside for your own hand too. Again, I feel the guys on the podcast just didn't think very hard about what they had in front of them. I simply didn't understand their criticism at all, when the ability is clearly both easier to get off than bigger hat and has no downside for your own hand. In crews that need a certain suit for big triggers (not just summoners) it is brutal - doubly so that you can target low Wp models with it, anywhere on the board. Combined with having to discard a card to soul stone, and discard 2 to interact, all of a sudden your opponent is running on very few cards when you have a full hand.
  35. 1 point
    Oh boy, I have order #11931... That might take a while! I ordered Reva, Carrion Emissary, and Yin the Penangalan. The wait is excruciating!
  36. 1 point
    http://shop.zenitminiatures.es/product.php?id_product=223 This looks promising.
  37. 1 point
    Very nice overall. Some of the zones aren't appearing correctly for me (corners for one), but I'm guessing you are still working things out. The deselecting bug would be great to get rid of. Thanks!
  38. 1 point
    Personally, I feel like the emissary has made the ice golem almost completely irrelevant. It almost hits as hard, is more survivable, waaaay faster and is the best ice mirror Raspy has access too. It also comes with a real nifty ability to pull other frozen heart models from engagement so they can be used as mirrors (or to get Raspy herself out of an engagement). Df2 is just abysmal and the +2 armour doesn't properly compensate for this drawback. Just compare it to Izamu who I think is a comparable model in terms of abilities and role. I feel like the golem should be sporting something in the neighbourhood of 12-13 Wds in order for it to compensate for that Df2. Even lowly 4ss models are often hitting it frequently enough make them a serious threat in number. I feel like he needs some help Now that being said, I think the new construct/beast upgrade available can help out with the golems speed if being run in a list with the blessed. I've yet to test it out to see if it's more work than it's worth, or if it's simply better to run the emissary, but it's worth testing.
  39. 1 point
    I`m alway saying that Firestarter and Samael should swap Factions. Kaeris could use a model with high damage for burning enemies. Sonnia could use a fast-burning giving scheme runner
  40. 1 point
    So… Uh... http://alexanderlozada.com/iasip/?U3Vuc3BvdHRlciBjb21wbGV0ZWx5IGZhaWxzIHRvIG5vdGljZSB0aGF0IFVuZGVyIFF1YXJhbnRpbmUgZ290IGRyb3BwZWQgYW4gZXRlcm5pdHkgYWdv Yeaaaahhh… Part 4: In which things are on fire and it's probably your fault
  41. 1 point
    At once both thrilled for you and gutted for the rest of us to see the news this morning. I can't tell you how many hours of joy you've brought into my life and the rest of the community. Thanks so much for that. We're going to miss you! :'(
  42. 1 point
    I like the model! I painted it and tried it today in 3 games. Definitely one of the better models in Guild and a cheap Promises carrier!
  43. 1 point
    Ben, complaining about re-balancing, surely not!? There's a genuine question about whether the test should be looser than the ones given above. Maybe simply say 'a tournament broadly in line with the current Gaining Grounds', get into the specifics of pairing / game size / objectives. That allows for the expected level of TO variation. That being said I'm an advocate of less variation, some of which often looks like variation for variation's sake, and is to the detriment of new players.
  44. 1 point
    I didn't appreciate it fully at first, but that (0) to make a minion attack, with a trigger to add up to +3 damage dependent on vp could be BRUTAL: So you get your 6 attacks (recalled training anyone) and then make your LFSJ (local, friendly, summoned Jorogumo) swing at a potential 6/7/9 damage! My initial thoughts were that the Oni Rider was not truly comparable to the other riders, partly because it doesn't have that once a game ultimate action. I now realise this is not the case: I'd rather have an excellent action I can take 2-3 times a game than an unbelievable one that I might get off once a game. I think Oni has a slight edge over the others in damage and threat range. How do we feel about +2 wounds and armour +1, plus draw a card once per turn when taking damage, as opposed to the riders turn dependent damage reduction?
  45. 1 point
    Abuela Ortegakilling a rattlesnake in her house. Someone will have to fix the hole in the floor
  46. 1 point
    Then I suggest you check out the sticky posts in this forum, specifically: From MythicFox and from Justin
  47. 1 point
    This one looks like a giant tengu, and comes on a 40mm, but it looks like it would fill out a 50mm base just as well http://www.bushido-thegame.com/catalog/naigubu This guy might be awesome to convert another oni onto the back of; that's beyond my talents, though http://www.bushido-thegame.com/catalog/giant-eagle Not flying...no swords...but cool looking, all the same http://www.bushido-thegame.com/catalog/kawa-na-rojin I'm not super happy with any of these, but Bushido is always the first line I check for 10T proxies. Dark Sword have a kirin mini, but it's on a 30mm and just way too small.
  48. 1 point
    So just because I like posting things here, my two cents on our newest Master: Without knowing the upgrades, hard to put any kind of placement here, but we do have some lovely tricks on her card, so let's start there: Rush of Magic is amazing. Hands down. And it's fantastic on a summoner. Nuff said. Hard to Kill. As many have pointed out already, this is really her only defensive trick beyond Df7. That WP5 hurts, and only 10wds is pretty low for a master that wants to be mid to close range. Wrath of the Oni. This ability is nuts in moderation. It's absolutely fantastic. But in a world of min 3 damage dealers... you have 3 oni that can charge before you're in a charge into htk range. Now, that's still 3 oni... and she has heals built in. This isn't terrible. But it's not like your'e going to hurl her into the fray, pop out a ton of minions and then just go come at me bro. That's asking for a face planting. But tactical use of this ability is going to be fantastic. Especially in late turns. Don't forget that with her flicker mechanic, the summon gains value as the game goes on. Another Mouth to Feed. This ability is awesome, but its only 1". She has a charge of 6" so this is more of an, "oh look, there's a tasty treat over here and it's allllll aloooooooone." Now that being said it's triggers are fantastic. Kind of a lowered Misaki attack, without the movement shenanigans. Now it makes up for itself with her next attack: Reaching Tendrils. Now this is an awesome ability. It's not quite as powerful as say, swirling spirits or lightning dance, as it's a push so terrain matters. But it's fun. And it can potentially enable a devastating Mouth attack. An Insatiable Hunger. This ability is amazing tech. I will be questing to use Yu with wandering river to move scheme markers to her with mighty gust and then chomp on them. Or just running tengu as a healing battery. Colette beware! This ability makes Oiran pretty useful too because you can run Hidden Agenda, use their WP bubble to help buff Asami's WP to 6, lure in enemies to nom and use her fast to drop scheme markers for Asami-chow. Fantastic piece of "help me stay alive." Asami desperately needs this as she's going to fold to any dedicated beater. An Oni's Strength. Two words: Katanka Sniper. Seriously though, this ability is fantastic for basically everyone in our arsenal. She can even target herself as its a tactical and its an Oni OR a minion, no restriction for dem oni! With a 2/4/6, that's pretty damned respectable. The fact that it can hit any of our particularly awesome minions is just great. Pumping up Asami or her hench is like icing on the cake. From the Maw, they Come. Ok this ability is just awesome with her kit. Like others have pointed out, you're looking at dropping a beater ideally, charging for 1AP and then doing what needs done before they either get dispelled or just flat out killed. I love how this ability fits flavor wise for her fluff. The snippet of her backstory talks about her wanting a family, losing hers, and being coerced into a dark pact with an oni, for the hopes of gaining a family. Enter a demon that lets her summon "family" but they are transient... only there for a little while. How screwed up is that? Anyways, the flavor aspects of it aside, this is a super strong ability that gets better with age. The more that dies and the less turns there are, the more potent this ability becomes. It gives it a ramp up feel that kind of makes sense. The longer the Oni consumes death and gains power, the more potent the summoning becomes. That's epic. The potential for shenanigans is strong, I agree. But I don't think it's quite in the OP category yet. But being able to pop out a Joro, focus it to +2, and then it gets a charge, a 0 action attack and just disappears, or soaks up APs from the enemy... yes please. Overall her kit seems really strong, and depending on her hench and upgrades, she could very well go to the top tier list for 10T selections. She fills an interesting role of mid-range support/summons and that sounds like a lot of fun, personally. As long as you don't overextend her, she's going to wreck face. She's like a scalpel... and considering we have a harrier (misaki) and a nuker (lynch), I really like that.
  49. 1 point
    If Sammy has Binge, then Wesley can't cast it (and naturally the main use of Binge is to cast it on Brewmaster and discarding a Masks to get an extra AP for Brewie). But Sammy is really good and works nicely with Brewster. Now, as for what to add, Trixiebelle is the best model that Brewie can hire. Unfortunately you can't buy her alone but rather need the whole Mah box. But Trix - damn she makes Brewie sing. Aside from her, Slop Haulers are always good as are basic Bayou Gremlins. I'm also fond of Piglets and Hog Whisperer but it isn't a universally shared sentiment. Burt is great. He can deal real damage and also bunch up enemies for the Brew bubble. Merris LaCroix is always nice if you need a Schemer and feel that Fingers is too expensive.
  50. 1 point
    Hi there. Some people seem to have no end of problems with the new Wyrd plastic models. So I've decided to try and give some tips which to some may seem obvious, but aren't so readily apparent to others. Some of these tips may also help veteran models who may have developed some bad habits over the years or are having difficulty making the transition from metal to plastic - while there are many similarities working with the two mediums there are also several differences. I've built several of the new plastics and I've never broken or lost a single piece while assembling. For full clarity, I have had two pieces break. One was when I was foolishly seeing just how far I could bend a 10T Archer's bow (I found out when it snapped) and the second one was a Torakage when I placed my carrying case flat on a table and some idiot put his elbows on it and leaned on it. Idiot. What you need. A work space. I recommend an area at least two feet deep and three feet across of flat surface to work on. Nothing should be in this work space except the tools you need and the models you are working on. Coffee cups, family photos, radios, cats, etc should all be outside of this area. Preferably the floor should be hard wood or tile.....at worst a very thin carpet. Nothing is worse than dropping a piece of grey plastic into grey shag carpet. If this is not possible then you must be extra careful of your movements and you'll need to take some extra precautions. For example; working over a large shallow box (the top of a shoe box is good for this) and placing a towel over your lap while keeping your legs in front of you to catch any pieces you may drop. A good light. A table lamp is best. If you're just using the kitchen light, when you lean forward your head will cast shadows on your work. Besides the obvious use of helping you to see what you're doing, a good light will create shadow which will help you see any mold lines in your models that need to be removed (more on that later). A comfortable chair. That's right. If you are uncomfortable, you will fidget more or stretch in your seat......any extraneous movement is a potential to knock something off the table so doing any little thing to prevent that is helpful. Tools. Side cutters. For clipping parts off of sprues. There are many brands and like most things, you get what you paid for. Getting a cheap pair from the dollar store is asking for trouble. I use a Xuron Micro-Shear. They are US made and run around $15. Instead of the standard compression cut, these use a shearing cut which reduces the pressure needed to cut........for anyone that has cut a piece off and had it fly across the room, these side cutters are the answer (more on that later). The shearing cut also allows them to keep their sharp edge longer than traditional cutters. If you are also working with metals, then you should get a second pair and label one 'Plastic' and one 'Metal'. Cutting metal will wear down the blade much faster and metal can take a cut with a duller blade better than plastic can. X-Acto Knife. For cutting mold lines and sprue edges that you couldn't get with the side cutter. Hobby knife, craft knife, razor knife, whatever you want to call it. It should be small enough to get into tiny spots like between legs or between the body and arms. I don't recommend the break away blades for this because they don't usually have the tapered point which allows access to those smaller spaces. You're knife should be sharp and clean......if it's starting to show rust on the blade, it's way past time to replace it. Sand paper or Jeweler files. For mold lines. I normally use a Jeweler file since you can get a small kit of various sizes that will allow you to reach just about any area. With plastic however I find that most of this work is easier done with a good razor knife (more on that later). A soft toothbrush. Huh? I thought this was about modeling, not oral hygiene? Yep. This is my tool of choice after sanding or filing anything to get those little shavings off of my models. Tweezers. For holding small pieces. I prefer not to use tweezers myself, but some people just have sausage fingers and they need some help. Again, there are many different kinds......do yourself a favor and get the kind with the rubber coating on the ends. If you squeeze a piece too hard with bare metal it will just shoot across the room....the rubber coating provides some grip and drastically reduces that problem. Glue. For, well, gluing. This is a massive problem that I see mentioned time and time again. Step out of the metal dark ages and put that Crazy/Super glue away. PLASTIC CEMENT is what you need. I've tried several brands and I prefer the Testor's Model Master - Liquid Cement for Plastic Models. It has a thin metal applicator tube that really helps control where and how much glue you apply. Your mileage may vary on the brand. (More on application later.) Super glue simply holds two pieces together. Over time it can degrade and become brittle. Plastic Cement actually works on a molecular level and will break down the plastic into a semi-liquid state which then fuses together so that once dry it creates one solid piece and provides a much stronger bond than super glue ever could. Paper towel. For cleaning up any over-gluing. Have this prepared......tear of several small pieces so that when you have an issue, you don't have to put your model down....just pick up a small piece and lightly dab the edge in the glue allowing it to absorb the glue.....let the paper do the work, don't rub it or you'll push your piece out of position. Your models. That one seems obvious even to me. So you have a nice, clean, organized work space and all of the tools you need. Now what? Open the models and look at them. Is there an instruction sheet? If not, check the Wyrd downloads section as there are many there. Are there any pieces missing? Are any pieces broken? If so, you should probably stop right now and hit the forums again to report the problem. Take a few minutes to look everything over. If there are multiple models on the same sprue, identify which pieces go with what. Visualize what pieces go where and try to identify any potential difficulties........gluing a solid torso to a single piece pair of legs is easy, but Yan Lo's beard might be a problem.......mentally note where these problems are so you can take greater care with them. If you're unsure where a particular piece is supposed to go on the model or at what angle, utilizing the 3D Renders on the box is a great help. Identify any pieces that will need to be done after something else is done.........if the model has a torso piece, an arm piece, and a weapon piece, they will obviously need to be done in steps. Figure out what needs to be done first. This next part will partially depend on how organized you are and personal preference. Some people prefer to only cut off the pieces that they are attaching right now. Other people prefer to cut everything off first.........well, if you're a generally unorganized person or if your cat likes to jump on your desk, that's probably not a good idea. If you're that guy and you still need to cut everything off first, I suggest you get one of those small plastic tackle box containers......then you can separate your pieces and close it when not working with them. I'm anal-like with my organization, meticulous with my clean work station, and I don't have a cat, and I don't start unless I know I'll have time to finish.......I cut everything. If it's multiple models I separate them into little piles.......then I clean them all.....then I assemble. Cutting from the sprue. Use the side cutters first. Look hard at where you're about to cut........is it part of the sprue? Or a tab designed to fit into another piece? Several of the Wyrd models have awesome irregularly shaped tabs that only fit one way onto another piece....take a look at the other piece and see what kind of shape it needs......that will help you decide where it's safe to cut. Relax.......it's not a race. Take your time. Exercise your patience. First, gently hold the part with your fingers to 1) prevent it from flying off the sprue into the abyss and 2) if it's a very thin piece, to help it absorb any potential tension you might put on it while cutting. Second, place the side cutters where you know (because you looked earlier) they need to go..........squeeze gently and slowly......if you snip it, you create more tension for breaking and flying. If it's connected in multiple places, re-position your grip if needed to cut the other connections. There. The piece is off the sprue, solidly controlled in your grip and not broken. Clean it. This can be a little trickier on some smaller pieces.....many times, those pieces are so small that any mold lines will be virtually impossible to see and you can ignore them. But you do need to make sure that the 'join spot' is smooth to allow the glue to do its job. Your good light can really help you now. It will create shadow making mold lines stand out much better. It really stinks to get paint on a model then realize that you missed a mold line. Give it a good look while turning it under the light. Personally, I have moved away from any filing. Plastic is so soft that most mold lines can be easily removed with your razor knife. Hold the knife perpendicular to the model and shave/scrape the line off........if you hold it at an improper angle, the blade could cut into the soft plastic and create a dip. I've also found that doing it this way creates MUCH less mess that I can simply clean off with a light puff of breath instead of needing to resort to the toothbrush.......which allows me to actually handle the piece less.....which cuts down on the amount of time that I might drop it (just like the chair, every little bit helps......the more seemingly stupid things you can do to reduce potential disaster the better). I have rarely found a reason to "clean" a plastic model, but if I notice any shiny substance on the model I'll clean that off. Again, the size and fragility of some pieces can make this a potential disaster if you're not patient and careful. Normally, the most I have needed to do is: Put a couple drops of liquid dish detergent in a large plastic cup. Let the tap water run hot, then fill the cup. Drop all your plastic pieces in there. Stir. Pour the contents into a fine metal strainer. On low volume, run cold water lightly over the pieces. Put the pieces on a paper towel and let dry. Inspect the pieces after dry. If there is still residue (unlikely, but possible): Make your detergent and hot water mixture. Place your strainer over the drain in case you drop the piece. Carefully hold the piece so you won't break it when you put pressure on it......I usually put in in my palm as flat as possible and hold it down with my thumb. Keeping your hands in the sink and over the strainer, dip your soft toothbrush in the soapy water and LIGHTLY scrub the piece. Drop the piece in the strainer and rinse it with cold water. Put on paper towel to dry. Assemble it. I'm going to assume that your model has several pieces, including pieces that need to be done in stages. Now that your model is off the sprue and cleaned take a second to confirm your assembly order decisions. Now that you can turn the pieces around at different angles you may decide to do it in a different order than you originally thought. Again, utilize any instructions and the 3D render if needed. It only takes a very small amount of glue. Try not to put a huge glob on there that's going to squeeze out the sides when you press the pieces together. With super glue, you can put two pieces together and spray with an accelerator that instantly dries it......which actually weakens the bond so to me it's a big no, no. With plastic glue you really have no choice but to let it bond......initially this doesn't take any more time than super glue on metal without the spray before you can let it go. However it will take some time to properly set. If you move a glued piece before it is dry, you will severely weaken the bond. This is part of the reason why I assemble several models at the same time.........I might attach all of my torsos to my legs.......then go back and do the arms......then go back and do the heads (or whatever order I've decided to do them in). The point is that you need to give each join time to cure well enough that a casual touch won't move it........it is still going to be weak at this point, so putting pressure on it will ruin the bond. If you are particularly ham-fisted, it might be best to do a couple of joins then do some painting or terrain building or whatever for at least 30 minutes before doing the next part. Once you've assembled the entire model, let it set for several hours to be certain it has fully cured before applying any paint. I usually wait a full 24 hours before considering paint. Basing. Normally, this isn't a problem if you're just putting the model on a stock plastic base as the plastic cement works just fine. However, if you're using a scenic base either something resin or something that you've made out of non-plastic material what do you do? Well, you might grab your pin-vice and try to drill a little hole through those little tiny feet and thin ankles....and honestly that's okay IF the model has big enough feet to do it. But if they're particularly small or at an odd angle you may have a really hard time with that. Take an off-cut piece of sprue, or a small piece of plastic card and carve out a space for it to fit in your base. You can then use your super glue to glue that piece into your base. You can then use your plastic cement to glue the model to that piece of plastic. That's all I've got for now. If I think of anything else I'll add it in. I encourage anyone that is an accomplished modeler to share any tips or tricks they have to make plastic modeling easier. I also encourage anyone that isn't sure of something to ask questions. I personally will do everything in my power to help you, but we also have a fantastic community here that will surely augment my measly offerings. Good luck and happy modeling.
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