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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/11/2016 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Hey all, I have had an amazing time working and volunteering with Wyrd and their many projects over the years. It is a company I really love and I'm proud of the work I've done with them. However, I am leaving to seek other exciting opportunities. I want all of you to know that I am still on very good terms with Wyrd and all of its staff. Very few people get to live the dream of making games for a living, so I definitely owe thanks to Nathan, Eric, Casey, and Vickey for allowing me the opportunity to spend time with this amazing company. Thanks, guys! Aaron, Mason, and Lindsey are all great people and great designers, and I really look forward to where they take Wyrd in the future. I'll miss all of you (I'll even forgive Mason for being a vulture). And myself and anyone else who enjoys actually being able to find Wyrd products at their store owes a big thanks to Kelly, Karen and all of the warehouse team who work so hard behind the scenes to make it all happen. Companies are nothing but a group of people with some common goals, and Wyrd has and always will be one of the best because it has some of the best people I've met. I also have to say thank you to our wonderful players and community. On the whole, the Malifaux community is one of the most open, supporting gaming communities I've ever seen. You are the reason Wyrd keeps going, and it is always exciting to get on the forums and see people talking about the things we've made, or even just chatting and making friends. Gaming is all about community, and Wyrd has an amazing one thanks to all of you. I won't be disappearing forever. After a few month hiatus from the forums (I've been eating, breathing, and sleeping Malifaux for the past few years - I need a break!) I fully intend to keep on posting, participating, and playing the game. I started out as an enthusiastic customer and being able to experience Malifaux again as a player who can just relax and enjoy the game is one of the things I'm most looking forward to. Aaron will be taking over lead Malifaux design. He has already designed many of the models you know and love (including Reva and her crew in the most recent book - which is the new Crew which has me the most personally excited to play) so the game is in competent hands. I look forward to seeing what he and the team come up with!
  2. 4 points
    Here's a blog post on the Outcast models and upgrades coming in Ripples of Fate.
  3. 4 points
    You underestimate us. We`re doing a mad Malifaux Roadtrip!. 5 men, 1 car, a ton of miniatures, 16 hrs one way But of course thanks for the offer
  4. 3 points
    I'm guessing you had something like this in mind v
  5. 2 points
    The essential problem for me, as he rarely sees my Raspy lists if ever and never anything not Raspy at all, is that he is a pure and simple damage dealing melee beatstick and in order to really do this properly you must take other models to make him really work. His damage output is impressive but he's slow and very easy to dink down with ranged and maybe a charge with his paltry Df2. Sure with his armor he often (Ignore Armor is a killer for him) takes only 1 dam but this adds up quick and with his Df you'll be finding it impossible to avoid damage completely even if you cheat 9/10. Because of his Df2 and low (in relation to his hit magnetism) wounds his Arm2 will not really protect him overly long without any healing or significant other defense (such as good Df triggers), if he survives past 3rd turn he is either being ignored or was lucky. He simply is not durable enough to be tanky. His throw is an interesting schtick but ultimately very niche (throwing Ht1 models). His huge damage output attack will (if it does not ambush an opponent) very, very rarely be used. Anything with the wounds to genuinely be at risk will do everything in there power to avoid being in his melee when he has yet to activate, its a 2AP melee, yeah you can zerg a low wound model but its an untoughed heavy hitter you want and they'll only close if they are confident of the alpha kill and with his low Df and Armor they can be pretty certain of this (or not and thus avoid him). Thus he needs Imbued energies and/or Snowstorm and/or Ice Dancers and/or The Captain at least one preferably two to really make him work. None of these models are cheap and all of them also buff other models equally. Additionally Snowstorm does some of what Ice Golem does anyway. Rasputina does amazing damage, extra raw damage is the lowest of her crew priorities, she needs speed. The Golem ain't that. For raw hit power the Blessed of December is faster and hits hard enough to make it count, she'll live longer or at least drain more resources to kill. Snowstorm adds good damage and is a much better defensive piece and buffs crew movement a real need. December Acolytes are cheaper, faster, more flexible, pack good ranged and are potentially vicious in melee. Outside Frozen Heart several Arcanist models are simply either faster and as killy (Cerebus or Howard) or more flexible and still killy (Joss and Cassandra for example) or cheaper and nearly as good (Slate Ridge with new buff, Rattler). So yeah, subject to any surprising upgrade or review the problem is you need to take other models with the Mega Popsicle to make him really work and not end up looking like an ice sculpture that has been attacked by a confused woodpecker. The problem is that these other models equally buff his superior alternatives anyway. What he brings (damage) Raspy's crew needs the least and other crews have viable alternatives. What her crew could use; speed or a really good tank damage soak he simply does not do well without significant support. Sad but true. You can use him, he is not useless or fatally flawed, but there are significant better options at the moment.
  6. 2 points
    Best of Luck Justin. Take that well earned break and it will be nice to see you back around as a player again in the future. As lead with M2E you have done great work and laid a solid foundation for things to follow and have left some big shoes to fill.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    Barbaros and Candy are very strong competitive options and absolutely do not need even the tiniest smidge of buffing. I don't play NB much any more, but when I do the most complained about model I use is Candy.
  9. 2 points
    See for me, Betty is a cruise missile type henchman, not unlike a Misaki or a Lone Swordsman. I don't expect her to live forever. I expect her to bully the opponent with choices of who they offer up to the Oni of Darkness. Her Flaying son has no competition unless another oni is around, and just works... which means you are almost always going to be able to cheat (barring impossible to wound or counterspell). Her threat range is obscene as well. Imagine you pop her into cover with a summons nearby. She activates, charges into something for 7", then ploughs through, and charging another 7". That's potentially 20" of movement ignoring intervening terrain and models, with a 2" reach. No triggers, and can cheat easily. Anything you want dead that doesn't have hard to kill is basically dead. It's absolutely card intensive, but I like that kind of high risk high reward. In a shen crew where she's given fast, you can potentially drop 18 damage on a Master with no ability for them to escape with triggers and only praying to the SS gods for help. I will absolutely pitch a hand of high cards and offer Black Betty's head on a silver platter if it takes out their Master. And remember, she costs as much as the Lone Swordsman as a henchman. That means stoning for that ploughed over trigger, or stoning to prevent damage. Her upgrade just makes this mean. And because she can hide in the shadows to avoid being targeted and STILL charge out destructively means she's going to stick around until you are ready to use her. Put recalled training (not really needed, but overkill is underrated) and death contract on her and then assume your best Sensei Yu pose and laugh. Or something like that
  10. 2 points
    Take a vacuum cleaner but use a pantyhose (or similar) to cover the nozzle - great for finding small parts lost in the carpet!
  11. 1 point
    Wyrd is happy to announce that we have teamed with Wargame Vault to offer print on demand stat cards! https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5162/Wyrd-Miniatures?site=wgv Orders require at least 10 cards be purchased. For now, only Wave 1 and Wave 2 cards are available.
  12. 1 point
    Sorry for this needless topic, I just wanted to be happy and say, My first Malifaux stuff has finaly arrived! Ophelias The Kin, A box of Slop Haulers, And a Fate Deck. It arrived today, And I'l start trying to build this weekend. Dang the Gremlins are tiny! xD
  13. 1 point
    Personally, I feel like the emissary has made the ice golem almost completely irrelevant. It almost hits as hard, is more survivable, waaaay faster and is the best ice mirror Raspy has access too. It also comes with a real nifty ability to pull other frozen heart models from engagement so they can be used as mirrors (or to get Raspy herself out of an engagement). Df2 is just abysmal and the +2 armour doesn't properly compensate for this drawback. Just compare it to Izamu who I think is a comparable model in terms of abilities and role. I feel like the golem should be sporting something in the neighbourhood of 12-13 Wds in order for it to compensate for that Df2. Even lowly 4ss models are often hitting it frequently enough make them a serious threat in number. I feel like he needs some help Now that being said, I think the new construct/beast upgrade available can help out with the golems speed if being run in a list with the blessed. I've yet to test it out to see if it's more work than it's worth, or if it's simply better to run the emissary, but it's worth testing.
  14. 1 point
    Well, Frank and Sidir/Queeg give 3 upgrades easily. Abuela with Rapid Fire is also nice.
  15. 1 point
    This blog post and thread are my heroes right now since I didn't get to go to GenCon this year (and I thought, rather silly like, that I'd get the book after I ordered Reva).
  16. 1 point
    So… Uh... http://alexanderlozada.com/iasip/?U3Vuc3BvdHRlciBjb21wbGV0ZWx5IGZhaWxzIHRvIG5vdGljZSB0aGF0IFVuZGVyIFF1YXJhbnRpbmUgZ290IGRyb3BwZWQgYW4gZXRlcm5pdHkgYWdv Yeaaaahhh… Part 4: In which things are on fire and it's probably your fault
  17. 1 point
    I like the model! I painted it and tried it today in 3 games. Definitely one of the better models in Guild and a cheap Promises carrier!
  18. 1 point
    That does make me disappointed. Understandable given how much you have on your plate. Only thing I can do is continue to point out there is interest, however small, on a somewhat regular basis. Thank you for at least what you have done. If there is ever time I know I'd appreciate the metals. Thank you.
  19. 1 point
    Worth pointing out that at lease one of the games at Nationals will use book schemes rather than GG2016
  20. 1 point
    I didn't appreciate it fully at first, but that (0) to make a minion attack, with a trigger to add up to +3 damage dependent on vp could be BRUTAL: So you get your 6 attacks (recalled training anyone) and then make your LFSJ (local, friendly, summoned Jorogumo) swing at a potential 6/7/9 damage! My initial thoughts were that the Oni Rider was not truly comparable to the other riders, partly because it doesn't have that once a game ultimate action. I now realise this is not the case: I'd rather have an excellent action I can take 2-3 times a game than an unbelievable one that I might get off once a game. I think Oni has a slight edge over the others in damage and threat range. How do we feel about +2 wounds and armour +1, plus draw a card once per turn when taking damage, as opposed to the riders turn dependent damage reduction?
  21. 1 point
    Abuela Ortegakilling a rattlesnake in her house. Someone will have to fix the hole in the floor
  22. 1 point
    This photo was made during one of our demos.
  23. 1 point
    The main difference is that Sammy, unlike Wesley has other awesome things to do with her AP than just Binge. I mean, Jynx is an utterly amazing Action. And I'm not saying that you shouldn't, just noting the trade-off if you do Sammy is, all in all, really good with Brewie.
  24. 1 point
    If Sammy has Binge, then Wesley can't cast it (and naturally the main use of Binge is to cast it on Brewmaster and discarding a Masks to get an extra AP for Brewie). But Sammy is really good and works nicely with Brewster. Now, as for what to add, Trixiebelle is the best model that Brewie can hire. Unfortunately you can't buy her alone but rather need the whole Mah box. But Trix - damn she makes Brewie sing. Aside from her, Slop Haulers are always good as are basic Bayou Gremlins. I'm also fond of Piglets and Hog Whisperer but it isn't a universally shared sentiment. Burt is great. He can deal real damage and also bunch up enemies for the Brew bubble. Merris LaCroix is always nice if you need a Schemer and feel that Fingers is too expensive.
  25. 1 point
    Hi there. Some people seem to have no end of problems with the new Wyrd plastic models. So I've decided to try and give some tips which to some may seem obvious, but aren't so readily apparent to others. Some of these tips may also help veteran models who may have developed some bad habits over the years or are having difficulty making the transition from metal to plastic - while there are many similarities working with the two mediums there are also several differences. I've built several of the new plastics and I've never broken or lost a single piece while assembling. For full clarity, I have had two pieces break. One was when I was foolishly seeing just how far I could bend a 10T Archer's bow (I found out when it snapped) and the second one was a Torakage when I placed my carrying case flat on a table and some idiot put his elbows on it and leaned on it. Idiot. What you need. A work space. I recommend an area at least two feet deep and three feet across of flat surface to work on. Nothing should be in this work space except the tools you need and the models you are working on. Coffee cups, family photos, radios, cats, etc should all be outside of this area. Preferably the floor should be hard wood or tile.....at worst a very thin carpet. Nothing is worse than dropping a piece of grey plastic into grey shag carpet. If this is not possible then you must be extra careful of your movements and you'll need to take some extra precautions. For example; working over a large shallow box (the top of a shoe box is good for this) and placing a towel over your lap while keeping your legs in front of you to catch any pieces you may drop. A good light. A table lamp is best. If you're just using the kitchen light, when you lean forward your head will cast shadows on your work. Besides the obvious use of helping you to see what you're doing, a good light will create shadow which will help you see any mold lines in your models that need to be removed (more on that later). A comfortable chair. That's right. If you are uncomfortable, you will fidget more or stretch in your seat......any extraneous movement is a potential to knock something off the table so doing any little thing to prevent that is helpful. Tools. Side cutters. For clipping parts off of sprues. There are many brands and like most things, you get what you paid for. Getting a cheap pair from the dollar store is asking for trouble. I use a Xuron Micro-Shear. They are US made and run around $15. Instead of the standard compression cut, these use a shearing cut which reduces the pressure needed to cut........for anyone that has cut a piece off and had it fly across the room, these side cutters are the answer (more on that later). The shearing cut also allows them to keep their sharp edge longer than traditional cutters. If you are also working with metals, then you should get a second pair and label one 'Plastic' and one 'Metal'. Cutting metal will wear down the blade much faster and metal can take a cut with a duller blade better than plastic can. X-Acto Knife. For cutting mold lines and sprue edges that you couldn't get with the side cutter. Hobby knife, craft knife, razor knife, whatever you want to call it. It should be small enough to get into tiny spots like between legs or between the body and arms. I don't recommend the break away blades for this because they don't usually have the tapered point which allows access to those smaller spaces. You're knife should be sharp and clean......if it's starting to show rust on the blade, it's way past time to replace it. Sand paper or Jeweler files. For mold lines. I normally use a Jeweler file since you can get a small kit of various sizes that will allow you to reach just about any area. With plastic however I find that most of this work is easier done with a good razor knife (more on that later). A soft toothbrush. Huh? I thought this was about modeling, not oral hygiene? Yep. This is my tool of choice after sanding or filing anything to get those little shavings off of my models. Tweezers. For holding small pieces. I prefer not to use tweezers myself, but some people just have sausage fingers and they need some help. Again, there are many different kinds......do yourself a favor and get the kind with the rubber coating on the ends. If you squeeze a piece too hard with bare metal it will just shoot across the room....the rubber coating provides some grip and drastically reduces that problem. Glue. For, well, gluing. This is a massive problem that I see mentioned time and time again. Step out of the metal dark ages and put that Crazy/Super glue away. PLASTIC CEMENT is what you need. I've tried several brands and I prefer the Testor's Model Master - Liquid Cement for Plastic Models. It has a thin metal applicator tube that really helps control where and how much glue you apply. Your mileage may vary on the brand. (More on application later.) Super glue simply holds two pieces together. Over time it can degrade and become brittle. Plastic Cement actually works on a molecular level and will break down the plastic into a semi-liquid state which then fuses together so that once dry it creates one solid piece and provides a much stronger bond than super glue ever could. Paper towel. For cleaning up any over-gluing. Have this prepared......tear of several small pieces so that when you have an issue, you don't have to put your model down....just pick up a small piece and lightly dab the edge in the glue allowing it to absorb the glue.....let the paper do the work, don't rub it or you'll push your piece out of position. Your models. That one seems obvious even to me. So you have a nice, clean, organized work space and all of the tools you need. Now what? Open the models and look at them. Is there an instruction sheet? If not, check the Wyrd downloads section as there are many there. Are there any pieces missing? Are any pieces broken? If so, you should probably stop right now and hit the forums again to report the problem. Take a few minutes to look everything over. If there are multiple models on the same sprue, identify which pieces go with what. Visualize what pieces go where and try to identify any potential difficulties........gluing a solid torso to a single piece pair of legs is easy, but Yan Lo's beard might be a problem.......mentally note where these problems are so you can take greater care with them. If you're unsure where a particular piece is supposed to go on the model or at what angle, utilizing the 3D Renders on the box is a great help. Identify any pieces that will need to be done after something else is done.........if the model has a torso piece, an arm piece, and a weapon piece, they will obviously need to be done in steps. Figure out what needs to be done first. This next part will partially depend on how organized you are and personal preference. Some people prefer to only cut off the pieces that they are attaching right now. Other people prefer to cut everything off first.........well, if you're a generally unorganized person or if your cat likes to jump on your desk, that's probably not a good idea. If you're that guy and you still need to cut everything off first, I suggest you get one of those small plastic tackle box containers......then you can separate your pieces and close it when not working with them. I'm anal-like with my organization, meticulous with my clean work station, and I don't have a cat, and I don't start unless I know I'll have time to finish.......I cut everything. If it's multiple models I separate them into little piles.......then I clean them all.....then I assemble. Cutting from the sprue. Use the side cutters first. Look hard at where you're about to cut........is it part of the sprue? Or a tab designed to fit into another piece? Several of the Wyrd models have awesome irregularly shaped tabs that only fit one way onto another piece....take a look at the other piece and see what kind of shape it needs......that will help you decide where it's safe to cut. Relax.......it's not a race. Take your time. Exercise your patience. First, gently hold the part with your fingers to 1) prevent it from flying off the sprue into the abyss and 2) if it's a very thin piece, to help it absorb any potential tension you might put on it while cutting. Second, place the side cutters where you know (because you looked earlier) they need to go..........squeeze gently and slowly......if you snip it, you create more tension for breaking and flying. If it's connected in multiple places, re-position your grip if needed to cut the other connections. There. The piece is off the sprue, solidly controlled in your grip and not broken. Clean it. This can be a little trickier on some smaller pieces.....many times, those pieces are so small that any mold lines will be virtually impossible to see and you can ignore them. But you do need to make sure that the 'join spot' is smooth to allow the glue to do its job. Your good light can really help you now. It will create shadow making mold lines stand out much better. It really stinks to get paint on a model then realize that you missed a mold line. Give it a good look while turning it under the light. Personally, I have moved away from any filing. Plastic is so soft that most mold lines can be easily removed with your razor knife. Hold the knife perpendicular to the model and shave/scrape the line off........if you hold it at an improper angle, the blade could cut into the soft plastic and create a dip. I've also found that doing it this way creates MUCH less mess that I can simply clean off with a light puff of breath instead of needing to resort to the toothbrush.......which allows me to actually handle the piece less.....which cuts down on the amount of time that I might drop it (just like the chair, every little bit helps......the more seemingly stupid things you can do to reduce potential disaster the better). I have rarely found a reason to "clean" a plastic model, but if I notice any shiny substance on the model I'll clean that off. Again, the size and fragility of some pieces can make this a potential disaster if you're not patient and careful. Normally, the most I have needed to do is: Put a couple drops of liquid dish detergent in a large plastic cup. Let the tap water run hot, then fill the cup. Drop all your plastic pieces in there. Stir. Pour the contents into a fine metal strainer. On low volume, run cold water lightly over the pieces. Put the pieces on a paper towel and let dry. Inspect the pieces after dry. If there is still residue (unlikely, but possible): Make your detergent and hot water mixture. Place your strainer over the drain in case you drop the piece. Carefully hold the piece so you won't break it when you put pressure on it......I usually put in in my palm as flat as possible and hold it down with my thumb. Keeping your hands in the sink and over the strainer, dip your soft toothbrush in the soapy water and LIGHTLY scrub the piece. Drop the piece in the strainer and rinse it with cold water. Put on paper towel to dry. Assemble it. I'm going to assume that your model has several pieces, including pieces that need to be done in stages. Now that your model is off the sprue and cleaned take a second to confirm your assembly order decisions. Now that you can turn the pieces around at different angles you may decide to do it in a different order than you originally thought. Again, utilize any instructions and the 3D render if needed. It only takes a very small amount of glue. Try not to put a huge glob on there that's going to squeeze out the sides when you press the pieces together. With super glue, you can put two pieces together and spray with an accelerator that instantly dries it......which actually weakens the bond so to me it's a big no, no. With plastic glue you really have no choice but to let it bond......initially this doesn't take any more time than super glue on metal without the spray before you can let it go. However it will take some time to properly set. If you move a glued piece before it is dry, you will severely weaken the bond. This is part of the reason why I assemble several models at the same time.........I might attach all of my torsos to my legs.......then go back and do the arms......then go back and do the heads (or whatever order I've decided to do them in). The point is that you need to give each join time to cure well enough that a casual touch won't move it........it is still going to be weak at this point, so putting pressure on it will ruin the bond. If you are particularly ham-fisted, it might be best to do a couple of joins then do some painting or terrain building or whatever for at least 30 minutes before doing the next part. Once you've assembled the entire model, let it set for several hours to be certain it has fully cured before applying any paint. I usually wait a full 24 hours before considering paint. Basing. Normally, this isn't a problem if you're just putting the model on a stock plastic base as the plastic cement works just fine. However, if you're using a scenic base either something resin or something that you've made out of non-plastic material what do you do? Well, you might grab your pin-vice and try to drill a little hole through those little tiny feet and thin ankles....and honestly that's okay IF the model has big enough feet to do it. But if they're particularly small or at an odd angle you may have a really hard time with that. Take an off-cut piece of sprue, or a small piece of plastic card and carve out a space for it to fit in your base. You can then use your super glue to glue that piece into your base. You can then use your plastic cement to glue the model to that piece of plastic. That's all I've got for now. If I think of anything else I'll add it in. I encourage anyone that is an accomplished modeler to share any tips or tricks they have to make plastic modeling easier. I also encourage anyone that isn't sure of something to ask questions. I personally will do everything in my power to help you, but we also have a fantastic community here that will surely augment my measly offerings. Good luck and happy modeling.
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