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Shock & Awe's Acrylic Slather House


Shock & Awe

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@Kimberly

Not going to lie, the fact that *the* kimberly commented on one of my pictures is totally making me feel like a rockstar.  I feel like I need dark sunglasses and some kind of addiction now (oh, wait.... I have one... it's called Malifaux :)

Thank you so much for taking the time to comment! Talos was my first crack at metals, and, as you gathered, "rusty old furnace" was the goal.  I'm glad to hear it hit close to the mark.

I can retire now though, one of the Wyrd staff said my painting was good. #bucketlist  

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On 9/24/2017 at 8:23 PM, Shock & Awe said:

I got Talos painted up.  I've got some touch up work to finish (especially on his back), but he's 99% done.  

As soon as I saw the art for this model I though, "rusty old furnace" so that's what I was aiming for.  I know it could use a bit more contrast, but I had a lot of fun playing with and learning how to make 'rust'  

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Looking good

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Love the look of the more smoke than flames on the death marshal. You have a great texture to your paints, is it more dry brushing than anything to get that effect?
 

@Kimberly Does great assembly work, she put together the cats for the gencon displays. Seeing them assembled is what I bought them all.... so many cats...

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On 12/22/2017 at 6:50 PM, Purple Mist said:

Nice!

May you gently spend some words about how you painted rusty surfaces?

Thank you! 

Certainly.... though, it's been a while since I painted him, so I'm a little fuzzy on the last step. 

First off, I use all Citadel paints. Where I live in Japan it's the easiest paint to get for me. I'm sure the other lines have similar paints to compliment what I'm going to put down here though. 

So, step one was a basic base coating of silver.  I used Citadel's Leadbelcher for this. 

Step two was to coat the entire model in Citadel's wonderful technical paint, Typhus Corrosion. This paint is essential to getting the grimy look. It actually has a grainy texture to it that really makes the next parts pop.

After that I dry brushed the model with a bright orange (Ryza Rust). Then, on top of that I went through and very lightly highlighted the most prominent areas with silver up the contrast. 

Lastly, to smooth out the dry brushing and blend the highlights, I used a red-ish wash (Reikland Fleshshade from Citadel's shade line). 

That was the part I was uncertain of.... looking at the model I feel like two or three washes could have been used, and I think I actually did layer my washes a bit (because I've been doing that a lot recently) but Reikland I am certain I used first. The others are up to taste. Brown can give it a more earthy look if you want to add that as well. Be aware, if you don't use Citadel's paints, that the shade is not a pure red. I'm not an artist, or whatever I would need to be to describe it correctly, so I would look the paint up and see if you can match it tone wise with whatever brand you use, assuming you don't use Citadel. 

That should be it! Thanks for commenting.

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19 hours ago, Stonewall78 said:

Love the look of the more smoke than flames on the death marshal. You have a great texture to your paints, is it more dry brushing than anything to get that effect?
 

@Kimberly Does great assembly work, she put together the cats for the gencon displays. Seeing them assembled is what I bought them all.... so many cats...

The smoke / ghost fire took me a while to get down right.  What I came to in the end is a layering technique and it's what I plan on using a LOT of when I finally get to work on Tara pretty soon. 

It's all Citadel paints, so I'll describe it with that way and let me know if you need clarification on any of it. 

Step 1 - base it white (Ceramite White)

Step 2 - Blue wash (undiluted - Drakenhof Nightshade)

Step 3 - White drybrush (Praxeti White)

Step 4 - Green wash (1:1 with Lahmian Medium - Biel-tan Green)

Step 5 - Light dry brush again with white (same as above) 

Step 6 - Blue/Green wash (3:1 Lahmian Medium & Coelia Greenshade) 

This process attempted to work in multiple shades of color at the bases with the white on top.  It took a while tinkering to get it right, so I'm glad someone other than me appreciates it! 

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3 hours ago, Shock & Awe said:

This process attempted to work in multiple shades of color at the bases with the white on top.  It took a while tinkering to get it right, so I'm glad someone other than me appreciates it! 

Well it is a great idea I haven't seen before so it deserves appreciation. I like the burnt effect around the chains on the coffin too. Might steal that and make the chains have a red effect like they are glowing hot.

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3 hours ago, Shock & Awe said:

Thank you! 

Certainly.... though, it's been a while since I painted him, so I'm a little fuzzy on the last step. 

First off, I use all Citadel paints. Where I live in Japan it's the easiest paint to get for me. I'm sure the other lines have similar paints to compliment what I'm going to put down here though. 

So, step one was a basic base coating of silver.  I used Citadel's Leadbelcher for this. 

Step two was to coat the entire model in Citadel's wonderful technical paint, Typhus Corrosion. This paint is essential to getting the grimy look. It actually has a grainy texture to it that really makes the next parts pop.

After that I dry brushed the model with a bright orange (Ryza Rust). Then, on top of that I went through and very lightly highlighted the most prominent areas with silver up the contrast. 

Lastly, to smooth out the dry brushing and blend the highlights, I used a red-ish wash (Reikland Fleshshade from Citadel's shade line). 

That was the part I was uncertain of.... looking at the model I feel like two or three washes could have been used, and I think I actually did layer my washes a bit (because I've been doing that a lot recently) but Reikland I am certain I used first. The others are up to taste. Brown can give it a more earthy look if you want to add that as well. Be aware, if you don't use Citadel's paints, that the shade is not a pure red. I'm not an artist, or whatever I would need to be to describe it correctly, so I would look the paint up and see if you can match it tone wise with whatever brand you use, assuming you don't use Citadel. 

That should be it! Thanks for commenting.

Thank you for your detailed description.

I used your technique in the past, making use of "Typhus Corrosion" and "Ryza Rust", then washing it all with different brown washes.

Looking to your pics I can see a dominance of gonden like shade although it could be an artefact produced by the photos.

Anyway you got a great miniature, congrats. ;) I'm tempted to replicate it, although at present I'm using Formula P3 Paints.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finished my Nightmare Edition of the Herald of Obliteration crew box. There was one sad moment though... my Nothing Beast got doused in tool wash thanks to an unfortunate accident and the plastic got melted. All the more tragic because that is 50% of the reason I dropped so much money on the NE set.  But, such is life, so I made lemonade with it. It gives me a reason to be continue showing low self control and buy the translucent set during the Easter sale (gods I hope they have it!).  

Tara and the rest I am really happy with (especially my old granny version of Karina). 

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Good progress! :)

 

May I suggest using less white for your highlights and try to lighten your base colour with another colour, for example, green with a light yellow. That doesn't mean not to use white, just add more colour. Since you are using drybrushing, it tends to create a chalky look depending on which colours you use. Or, you could saturate the colours after drybrushing by applying an ink-wash. Angel Eyes seems washed (I could be mistaken) and her colours are more vibrant than, let's say, those of the Nothing Beast.

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8 minutes ago, Treehouse said:

Good progress! :)

 

May I suggest using less white for your highlights and try to lighten your base colour with another colour, for example, green with a light yellow. That doesn't mean not to use white, just add more colour. Since you are using drybrushing, it tends to create a chalky look depending on which colours you use. Or, you could saturate the colours after drybrushing by applying an ink-wash. Angel Eyes seems washed (I could be mistaken) and her colours are more vibrant than, let's say, those of the Nothing Beast.

Thanks for the feedback!  I am definitely trying to get away from my dry brushing crutch, but I genuinely like the 'chaotic' look it makes. I feel like it fits Malifaux... but I've started to see how 'chalky' it looks. I used to leave the dry brush as the top layer until about 5 models or so ago, and, you're right, washing it after dry brushing tones down the chalk look and makes the colors pop more. I still have a lot of work to get it right though.

I am definitely trying to not work up to white, mainly because I am not good at using it, but Tara's group was done based on how i imagined the "void" fire (which to me was greenish-blue with white highlights based on the Death Marshal art). 

I will keep the advice in mind, and thanks again for taking the time to leave some feedback. I just started really looking into color theory, so I'll try some new combinations with the next few models and see how it goes...

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