MrDeathTrout Posted July 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 4 hours ago, haychdee said: The trapper looks good but to me her right upper arm (pictures left) looks a tad too long. Might just be the perspective though. I think you are correct. That arm is a bit too long. I decided to go with it. I struggled a lot with getting a realistic angle and length. I settled in this as close enough. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munindk Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Body proportions are beyond me, I just think its an amazing model I'd give her a cloak though, its part of the Trapper "look". Maybe something more flowing and robe-like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 8 hours ago, Munindk said: I'd give her a cloak though, its part of the Trapper "look". Maybe something more flowing and robe-like? Thanks! I think you are right, how can she be a trapper without a cape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted July 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Librarian conversion. Next I don't think I got the knife wielding arm proportions quite right, but it's close enough. Next will probably be a specialist conversion then build Hanna. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin66 Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Great figures. Love the work station. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snitchythedog Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 3 hours ago, MrDeathTrout said: Smashing work all around. Now I am intrigued, how did you do the stitching? Snitchy sends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted July 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 4 hours ago, snitchythedog said: Smashing work all around. Now I am intrigued, how did you do the stitching? Snitchy sends. Thanks. Do you mean the stitching that runs all the way around the bottom of the cloak? It comes like that. The majority of what I did was rebuild the missing arm sections out of green stuff and shave off a lot of tubing for the absent flamethrower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 The specialist is going to be a bit more work than I originally thought. 12 parts here (two already glued into one) and I can see at least one more cut I'll need to make, plus the heat shield and then adding hoses. The Trapper is "done". The harsh lights and zoomed in photo really washes out the shading. There isn't a lot of contrast on her green's, but this looks like there's none. Anyway, I might add some torn up cheese cloth to the cloak to make a gillie suit, but haven't decided for sure if I want to. I may revisit her later. It also doesn't make a lot of sense to have shiny armor and gun on a sniper, but it looks so much better I decided to go with it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted July 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 Alt Specialist build complete. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 Kamaitachi and TT Bro #2 done. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted August 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 Finally motivated to get back to the avatar of dread. I think he is ready for primer. The legs look really rough in the photos, but that is just because of how the green stuff looks after I scraped it a bit. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Deleted. I merged two jorogumo posts into the one below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted August 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 Jorogumo! Jorogumo! Jorogumo! Jorogumo! Jorogumo! Jorogumo! These guys are NOT easy to base. I've seen a few posts complaining about it. I figured I show how I'm going to do it. At first I planned on putting a rod through their bellies and running it straight down to their base like a a very low flying model. With the major support in place I'd then glue the legs to to base just to keep them in place and give a little stabilization. I'm going to pin them to the base suing their stingers and in two (or more) legs. Pinning long slender pointy things is not easy, but I've done similar things before using the technique below. Pinning the "tip" of a thin part. Photo 1) In the first photo you can see I start drilling perpendicular to the stinger. I do this until I get a good bite into the plastic. Probably about 1/8 to 1/16 inch. Photo 2) Once I have a good start I angle the drill towards the direction I want to be going (down the center of the stinger). Drill a little deeper then, angle more, drill deeper, angle more, etc... Photo 3) The drill is now at the angle I want it, so I start drilling deep. Photo 4) After drilling about about 1/2 inch in I insert the pin. I went pretty deep since the stinger in thin, I want the pin deep in the thicker plastic. Make sure you drill very slowly with very little pressure when pinning thin parts. The tips of the legs are a little thinner, but I use the exact same process. I repeated this on two of the Jorogumo's legs. Photo 5) The tip of one leg just before inserting the pin. You can see it looks like a hypodermic needle. Not to toot my own horn, but IMHO this is one is very well done and what I'm trying to achieve with this technique. Photo 6) Complete. The Jorogumo on the base. I should have cleaned up a bit more before the photo, but you can see the pins are hardly visible. Painted a dark color or a bit of flock will cover them up. I put red dot right where the pins are to make them easier to spot. The pins go at least a 1/4 into the plastic so they are pretty well anchored. With three if them I'm not concerned with them coming off the base. Photo 7) A look at the pinning from underneath. Something I learned while doing the second one is if you angle the pins away from the center of the base they act like hooks locking the model down and keeping the legs hugging the base (more or less). I put the pins straight up and down on the first one and the had a tendency to work out. Once glued in place it won't matter, but its nice if they like to stay in place while you glue. FYI - You might notice the abdomen on my Jorogumo are smooth. I didn't like the striped pattern they had so I filed down the edges of the stripes and covered the back of the entire abdomen with Miliput and filed to smoth it out a bit. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victoriangirl Posted August 23, 2016 Report Share Posted August 23, 2016 On 03.08.2016 at 6:42 AM, MrDeathTrout said: Kamaitachi and TT Bro #2 done. Oh my! It is splendid and cute. I'll see it again when start mine one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Feral Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 I haven't seen many projects here with as much reposing / sculpting conversion work as you do - kudos! Avatar Seamus is neat, what's the base plastic parts used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted August 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 I haven't seen many projects here with as much reposing / sculpting conversion work as you do - kudos! Avatar Seamus is neat, what's the base plastic parts used? Thanks. The Avatar of Dread base a mature nephilim. Everything else is either green stuff or plastic rob rods and tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted August 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2016 Ohaguro Bettari done. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted September 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Amanjaku 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stark Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Very, VERY useful post about basing Jorogumo! Why so few likes?! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Feral Posted September 8, 2016 Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 Those last two are some funky looking minis - are they from the Asumi crew set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted September 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2016 1 hour ago, Mister Feral said: Those last two are some funky looking minis - are they from the Asumi crew set? Yes, both are from the Asami set. Her henchman (Ohaguro Bettari) and her totem (Amanjaku). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted September 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Airbrush Advice From and Airbrush Noob Someone asked question in another thread about what airbrush to buy. I figured I'd clean up my post a bit a put it here as well. First off I am NOT an expert on airbrushes. I've had one for a couple of years but haven't used it much because I'm not very good with it. Of course I'm not very good with it because I don't use it very much. I've deiced to put more effort into learning to use it. So my advice is really only good for someone who knows absolutely nothing about airbrushes since that's about the only guy I know more than. There are may styles of airbrushes and the style I think is by far the best for minis is an Internal Mix, Gravity Fed, Dual-Action airbrush. Internal Mix - The paint and air mix before exiting the tip. External mix brushes shoot air out the tip with the paint nozzle on the outside of the tip so the paint is drawn into the air flow from the outside. You don't want that for obvious reasons. Just kidding, I don't know why this is not what you want, I just remember when researching when I bought mine external mix was considered a low quality brush. I assume the flow is not as consistent. Gravity Fed - The paint pot is on top of the air brush and flows down into the brush. My first air brush was one with the bottle on the bottom and it uses a LOT more paint. You have to mix up enough paint for it to get drawn up the straw, then clean the whole thing before switching colors. With a gravity fed I can base coat and entire model with just a few drops of paint. Bottom feeders also require a higher PSI to work because you are pulling the paint up the tube against gravity, you need enough air moving to suck the paint up the tube. Gravity fed brushes just need to push the paint out the end as the paint drains into the brush. Bottom feeders are best suited to large projects like base coating a display board or very large piece of terrain since they usually have a much larger paint reservoir. Dual Action - Pushing down on the button releases air, pulling back on the button releases paint. You can release just air then slowly allow the paint to start flowing and control the amount of paint being released. Essential if you want to do fine detail rather than just base coating. Single action brushes are basically on or off, with little to no control over paint flow. Compressor I've hear some very experienced airbrushers say they would rather use a good compressor and bad brush than vice versa. You can get a good one for $100 or less. What I would look for in a compressor is: Quiet - No louder than about 55 Db. Auto Shut-off - It turns off automatically when the tank if full. Tank - Most important of all is that it has an air tank. The tank does several things. It holds air so you can spay faster than your compressor can put out air, at least for a bit. Since it is a tank the air comes out at a consistent rate. If you don't have a tank the air can come out in pulses as the compressor diaphragm works back and forth pumping air, so your paint flow will go up and down slightly. Lastly it gives the air a chance to cool. As your compressor works it will heat up this can heat the air it is compressing and that can make the paint dry before it get to your model. Regulator - Almost as important as the tank is the regulator you probably to be able to vary your air pressure. A regulator lets you dial the air pressure you want and most double as a moisture trap to keep water from getting into your paint and causing it to spatter. If You find a compressor you like that doesn't have a compressor you can add on after market. Paint You need your paint to be about the consistency of 2% milk. Thicker than water, but it should run down the side of the paint reservoir readily. You can thin your paint with a bit of water, airbrush cleaner, or any other thinner for the type of paint you are using. I use Liquitex Flow Aid and a little water, some folks like to use Liquitex Slow-Dri to keep the paint from drying on the tip of the airbrush and clogging it up. You will get the best results with airbrush paint. I like Vallejo Model Air and Vallejo Game Air paints. I do use other acrylic paints like Vallejo Model Color, Game Color and Panzer Aces paints, GW paints, etc. But have a lot more issues with clogging even if I've thinned the paints. I think the pigments of the paint are just not as finely ground and clogs the brush easier. Technique Not much advice here. I'm terrible with this thing. But Ogaharu Bettari's red cloak (in the pics above) was base coated in a dark brown then I airbrushed the red on. This got me 75% of the way there. I came back with a brush and layered on more red in the highlights and more brown in the recesses. This is very typical of how I use an air brush, get a good base then finish up up the old fashioned way. This is what I use Paasche Talon Airbrush - I have a Paasche Talon I'm not sure if the one in the link is exactly the same. I'm not sure if there are any variations or if it has changed since I bought mine about 5 years ago. From what I've read it is a really good all around brush. It is good for detail work and good for base coating. It is good quality and cost around $100. If you want a really high end brush Iwata is the way to go, but they are quite a bit more expensive. PointZero Elite 175X Compressor - No review I just got it and haven't even used it yet. I'll update once I've had a chance to test it out. Note the air output and the input on my airbrush hose are different sizes, so I need an adapter. I've ordered one from Paasche, but I'm not linking it since I haven't got it yet and can't say for sure I picked the correct one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sockwithaticket Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Good stuff in here, the Ohaguro Bettari is pure nightmare fuel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted September 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Asami is done for now. I want to do some freehand work on her robe, but I haven't figure out what I want yet plus I want to get some more oni painted so I can get her on the table. So this will have to do for now. First Yokai done. I might do something more with the fir, but I'm not sure what yet, but this is good enough to put him on the table so I'll start on some more oni. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDeathTrout Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Sorry everyone. I was cleaning up my photobucket and broke all the links. I think I got all of the pics back in the right posts, but I wasn't able to fix the ones where you guys quoted me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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