John Polack Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Ok guys new to Malifaux and I love the rules and the fluff. I bought the new Victorias box set and they are NICE! Small very small....I tried some Testors Model cement for plastics....NIOT WORKING! Almost ruined my first model with excess glue? Is there a better product out their for small detail work? Brush on or something??? I live in a small town in SW La. so any links would be cool? Thanks....I am looking to play my first game as soon as I get these guys done... Thanks in advance for all the help. Giddoen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spectrehorseman Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 I use Tamiya Plastic Cement for larger parts and then just plain old super glue for the very small bits (like arms). Plastic Cement has Acetone and Butyl Acetate which actually melt the plastic and fuse them together as one piece. The superglue I'm using isn't that great. I have found that there are several types of thickness. Gap filler, thin, etc. I purchased some thin yesterday but it was too thin and didn't have any surface tension (which helps keep the drop on the spot without spilling over the edge). So next time, I'm gonna go with the next thickness up. You don't want too think because it spills out and makes ugly rough residue on your mini. Hope that helps http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1402153466&sr=8-2&keywords=tamiya+plastic+cement 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengt Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Revell Contacta Professional is the best plastic glue I've tried. It's liquid and has a long thin metal spout. The liquid glues with brushes that I've tried has had huge brushes (by Malifaux model standards). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fenton Crack Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Flex I File makes an applicator for their plastic cement (that is almost water thin) that has a needle like applicator you just touch to the surface and it dispenses via capillary action or some such. I have one, but have not used it yet. Info: http://www.flex-i-file.com/adhesives.php 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scorpion0x17 Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 I use Humbrol Precision Poly Cement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Polack Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Wow thanks guys...I will look into these. I really want to get these guys on the table to play... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Keenan) Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Was the testors you used the model master cement? I've used that stuff for years and never had any issues with it going everywhere. If it wasn't try it out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Math Mathonwy Posted June 9, 2014 Report Share Posted June 9, 2014 Also worth noting that plastic glue can go old and then it loses a lot of its potency. So if it was an old bottle, then that is a possible explanation as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eldarion Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 To chip in my 2 cents... Testors' red tube or blue tube? I'm not sure what the real difference is, but I've been told that the blue tube glue is their higher-quality glue, and my personal experience with model kits made me agree (although preconceived notion bias may be a factor). The blue tube Testors glue worked dandy on the few Malifaux plastics I've used it on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clawz Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Something else to consider with plastics, like the stuff Wyrd makes; The plastic itself is rather shiny, meaning not a lot of dimples or 'grip' for plastic cement. I suggest taking a page from the Ceramics world and rasp the join a bit: take a craft knife and score the areas to be bonded. Most plastic cements work by slightly melting the plastic, then as the glue 'dries', the plastic fuses together, making a bond that's not really 'glue bridging a gap' as much as 'plastic making a bond'. What this means is, first, Less is More, and second, the more plastic surface area for the bond, (hence the rasp) the better! Good luck! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengt Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Also worth noting that plastic glue can go old and then it loses a lot of its potency. So if it was an old bottle, then that is a possible explanation as well. My bottle of Contacta is pretty old, 10+ years, and still working really well. I'm kind of amazed really as I've put together quite a few GW armies with that one bottle. The super glue I use (Loctite precision) gets noticeably thicker and bonds worse over time, and a bottle gets useless 1-2 years after first opening it. A 5g bottle is cheap though, and it's very good when new, so I still buy it even though I don't think I've ever finished a bottle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Polack Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Was the testors you used the model master cement? I've used that stuff for years and never had any issues with it going everywhere. If it wasn't try it out. No Keenan it was the basic goop in the tube, and while I am used to using it with other mini's (Plastic Tau from 40k) it was just a mess with these super small mini's that are Victorias (2e box set). So looking for something a little easier to use on smal delicate peicies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brib4169 Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 this is the stuff I use for all plastic models, it works great. The metal needle tip is fantastic. It does 'melt and fuse' your plastic so fair warning if you plan future conversions. http://www.testors.com/product/136942/8872C/_/Liquid_Cement_For_Plastic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Polack Posted June 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Flex I File makes an applicator for their plastic cement (that is almost water thin) that has a needle like applicator you just touch to the surface and it dispenses via capillary action or some such. I have one, but have not used it yet. Info: http://www.flex-i-file.com/adhesives.php Rats my local store cant get it! and while its not very $$ the shipping is double the cost of the pen! argh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(Keenan) Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 The stuff that brib posted is what I've used for my gw and wyrd plastics. Not necessarily cheap but well worth it for that needle thin applicator tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fenton Crack Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Rats my local store cant get it! and while its not very $$ the shipping is double the cost of the pen! argh... I got mine at Hobby Lobby on sale for 13 bucks with the jar of cement. Don't know if they still carry them though or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MightyGodzilla Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 I put this info in another post and I meant to put it here, so forgive the antics Anyways I use this glue called Plastruct Plastiweld. It works great, it can even meld plastics of different types (ABS, polystyrene, etc) together. It's turns plastic into butter (so be careful) and you can generally use it to brush away small mold lines (that really saved me when I had to do Vanessa's hand...smallest, daintiest piece I think I've ever seen - but she's got all her fingers!!). http://www.amazon.co...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Another trick I use is to reinforce my Plastiwelded joints by brushing on CA glue (with a needle or exacto blade or a really cheap) and hitting it with accelerant. Works great!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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