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Found 13 results

  1. AngelEyes

    The new Outcast player rundown!

    Hello! I am a long time Warmachine player and talked a friend of mine to give this game a try. I'm not sure his opinion but I love the setup of this game from the extra soul gems, the on-the-fly list build, the strategies and schemes, and the low model count. It was tough for me to decide what faction to try first, but went with Outcasts cause the Viks, cause, you know, girls with swords, and the whole Sister theme sounds cool. Listened to a lot of the Schemes and Stones podcast at work, though I understand its outdated, confirmed that I was going with the Outcasts (was debating Guild). Local store had the Von Schill box, which I bought, then the Levi box, and just got in the Viks box, plus Vanessa. Next pick probably is going to be Tara or Misaki. I know this isn't the best way to learn stuff, but everything sounds so cool! No charge Misaki, or time warping Tara! I guess what I'm looking for is the thing I'm guessing is going to be the hardest to grasp from Warmachine/Hordes. I saw the thread about what Master into which GG2018 Strat. But would it be possible to get a quick run down on each master and what they are good at? Nothing more than a sentence or two is good. And then what to expect out of each faction overall. I know that could be a lot to ask, but hoping to travel to some competitive stuff after NOVA depending on situation. This is my guess to make this easier: Viks - Two fisted cruise missile. Generally sounds like you send Vik of Blood in, then follow up with Vik of Ash and murder town everything they get close to. Do they kinda stick together as a pair? (Love them so much btw, if you know the Twins from Legion of Everblight, I would of loved if they worked like this instead) Von Schill (The Hulkamania) - I feel like he supports his Freikorps with a few abilities, but goes in with his Jack Knife? I read that he's more of a area control master, which is making more sense to me, granted I only played him once. Leveticus - Unkillable killer? I don't know much into him and picked the set up cause name drops, and Rusty Alice. Misaki - One fisted cruise missile, but I really like the idea of a full disguised/snare list and throw the opponent off by having to walk to each person. Is this a pipe dream of a list? - Misaki, Rusty Alice, Ronin, Oiran, Hans. Tara - I wanted to avoid spamming with this game, since Warmachine/Hordes is going through a rough patch of spam lists meta in my opinion, but seems like that's the way to play her? Beast bomb as a side strategy to get The Nothing Beast in there to hassle the opponent up. Jack Daw - put Curses on models and pull Tormented models around Hamelin and Parker Barrows - No idea. Solo models I'm looking into also since its not all about the box sets - Scion of the Void, Hannah, Hans, Lazarus, and the Midnight Stalker. As for the other factions, got no clue. I have some general ideas and some not a single thing. Thanks for any addition information! PSA - feel free to plug stores and events near SW Virginia to keep an eye on for events in the near future. Thanks!
  2. Hello Puppet-Lovers! This is going to be my first attempt at writing a Tactica for use with my favourite Master: Collodi. I used Collodi a lot in the Wave 2 Beta and think I have a good grasp of the tactics and abilities you can make use of in a Collodi crew, which I would like to share with New Players and old alike, as well as maybe give Collodi's Opponents a leg up if they are finding him a difficult Master to go up against in their local group. Let's begin with where we came from: In M1E Collodi's tactics involved spinning a small ball of marionettes into anything and having that thing die rather brutally, from just about anywhere on the board. While maintaining a lot of the same flavour in 2E Collodi is not going to fly across the board with his entire crew, that said he has never felt more like a PuppetMaster in my opinion, and I'd like to show people why, especially if theyre having trouble transitioning. StatBlock First off Collodi is a Low-Wound Master. His Df is average at 5, with good WP at 6. 5Wk makes him a little faster than average, but is going to leave some players missing his old 40" moves. However, he can push 3" after any Df targeting attack, so if youve got some low cards to toss you can attack him with your own models to push him up the board. We've also got Accomplice so he can always have a friend go after him and Puppet Friends, which gives him access to any out of faction Puppet model, which is currently Mannequins, Coryphee and the Effigies. The 6" Bubble Collodi's abilities and buffs all center around a 6" bubble around him. This makes him more vulnerable to blast-heavy crews, but also makes it much easier to buff your entire crew at once. Of note is that Collodi's buffs do not require you to STAY in this bubble. Learning when to venture from the bubble is going to be an important skill for 2e Collodi players. Personal Puppet This is one of Collodi's (0) actions and marks a friendly Minion as the Personal Puppet until he uses the ability again. This grants the PP a (1) action any time Collodi suffers damage from an enemy model while within THE BUBBLE, so long as they take 1 damage themselves. It also grants Collodi the ability to kill (not sacrifice, so it will drop Corpse/Scrap) the Personal Puppet to negate all damage from whatever just hit him. This gives us 2 courses of action with PP. 1) We can throw it on something menacing, like an Illuminated, Young Neph or Ronin, and furiously punish things for hitting Collodi (or stalk the PP closer to priority targets and mark something else PP on out next turn. Nothing says dont hit my Master like a magical crack addict clawing your opponent's Master's face off.) 2) We throw it on something throw away, most notable the Marionette totem, and kill them when a Seamus Flintlock RJ dmg flip appears. The nice thing about the Marionettes is that when they die they may transfer positive conditions off to other minions. So you can face-tank a number of hit equal to your marionettes +1 before taking any damage. Assuming they are all in THE BUBBLE. Ideally you will get a chance to gauge your opponent and pick a tactic that most messes up their gameplan. I usually start off now by putting it on something big unless I guess my opponent is a "kill the master at all costs!!!" kind of player. Beater tends to deter pot shots, chaff tends to deter people from concentrated efforts. Collodi Hates Mind Bullets Ok, so Collodi has Df 5 and WP 6, why does he hate WP duels more? Well, first off you'll only usually only be taking one hit from a Df duel due to the auto-triggered Run Away Home; letting you push 3" in any direction, usually good enough to push out of melee or into cover/out of LoS against shooting attacks. Against WP? He's a sitting duck if the attack makes it past his WP6. So prioritize those nasty WP targets, or just avoid them if you can. But Hates His Opponents More Lets talk about what Collodi does to your Opponent's crew before we get into what he can do for his own. Collodi's lone offensive skill is Pull The Strings. It is highly accurate, extending 4" past THE BUBBLE and best of all, isnt actually a ranged attack, so does not scatter and does not care about cover. The attack itself has a... poor damage profile for a master: 2/3/4, but comes with a positive twist to damage, so you can cheat in those middle of the road cards if you want the 3 damage. But no, where this attack shines is in its triggers. SO first of all we have a build in Mask. That Mask gives the opponent slow. A crow lets us damage AND obey the opponent's non-Leader model, as many times a turn as we have AP and fancy crows to throw at them. The last trigger; Idle Hands, requires a second maske. On that model's activation, you control one of it's AP, and spend it. Now, that on its own is great, but you can shut down nearly any model in the game with 2AP and some good cards. Slapping a model once for slow and then a second time for Idle Hands means they are Paralyzed, without being able to Frozen Heart Immunity their way out of it. They lose 1 AP and you're spending the other. Even models with specific AP like Nekima can be forced to move out of position so they can't make use of their extra AP. Or just stab away with them, your pick. Nasty Ability. Collodi Loves His Children Collodi has two more actions on his -base- card, both of which are for helping his wonderful friends out. Collodi has a deep affinity, like many buffing masters, for Minion and -Keyword- models. His keyword characteristic is of course, Puppets. The first, My Will, allows him to transfer some AP out to his minions/puppets giving them a positive twist to any DUEL they make during the action. So this allows for more easily passed Horror/Manipulative duels, as well as just flatly being more likely to hit. Often you'll be better off attacking with your own strings, but this ability should not be overlooked. It doesnt work on Collodi so dont try. Second, he can summon back his totem, the marionette, or wicked dolls from scrap left lying around from killing all your decoy personal puppets or killing whatever mechanical beasties your opponent brought. This requires a 9 of Masks, making it one of the worst return-on-investment summoning powers in the game. But only by a TN difference of 1 so, its not the end of the world. This ability is one of the reasons you might pause on taking some of the NB minions I mentioned because they will all be dropping corpses, save the Coryphee. But you should have plenty of scrap from marionettes dying and effigies getting taken out. Fated VS Props Collodi's two Limited upgrades are going to change how you're playing with him. Both provide Creep, a handy little 3" push (0) action, good for getting out of engagements and moving up the board. What they differ on is key though: Do you want to Buff Your Crew or do you want to Buff Your Master? Fated was my go-to during the playtest. Effigy buffs are very powerful and will be covered in more detail in their own section. But suffice to say, being able to grant your Puppinions healing on causing damage, burning on every attack unless your opponent discards, etc and being able to do so -without activating Collodi- is very powerful indeed. When Collodi activates he can also grant a second buff to the crew by taking an action. This is usually defensive stance or more notably: Focus. If you have been reading game dev Justin's blog, you'll know how valuable AP is as a resource and I found myself on average granting it to 4-7 Puppinions, which is a heck of a lot of AP saved. Props is the contrast. It allows Collodi to sap off Defensive Stances and Focus conditions from friendlies as required. Now on the surface this seems much less useful, but having Out of Position models ending their turn on a Defensive Stance or Focus can free up a LOT of Collodi's AP, let him stand a higher chance of drawing suits he needs and just generally let him be more effective while chaff models secure you activations and are no less effective at being in your opponents way. If you find yourself thinking Marionettes are not useful, this may be the upgrade to try. Especially with Avatar Collodi's attacks (covered in the third post) You'll also get the option to summon Effigies! You dont get their buff across your whole Puppinion base, but if there's scrap around they can be more useful than a Wicked Doll and Collodi certainly does still get to benefit from the Effigy buffs! I Heard There Are Other Upgrades? Right you are title! My favourite/always taking of the remaining upgrades is Strum The Threads. This allows Puppinions Puppets-Only in THE BUBBLE to take 2 unavoidable damage to gain fast. Now Puppets tend to have low wounds high defences, so if you dont have a way of healing (which you do! See: Effigies) you can quickly wipe yourself off the board, but Illuminated could heal that back same turn. And now they are FAST magical crack addicts. It should be noted this is NOT an action, its just an ability so you cant spread Fast to your Puppinions with Fated. Stop doing so, take your 2 damage like a... man puppet? Like a muppet. Breathe Life exists! Its another option for a (0), letting you toss 2 wounds back on a model, but it can't be you, so probably pass? Pushing Puppinions 2" is actually more useful than it sounds. You can unlock a lot of models from combat or manage some extra distance. If you're hitting 8 models with it, it is 16" of free movement? I dunno, I still haven't got it to be as useful as I think it COULD be. Threads of Fate. Not to be confused with Fated, this makes Collodi immune to forced movement, which is pretty dang super. You also get a (1) to give yourself Armor. Now, aside from the obvious interaction with Fated and giving that armor to your Puppinions, did you consider making yourself Fast with Strum, giving yourself Armor +4 and then not caring so much about the Beatstick in your face? Especially since that 1 minimum damage still lets your PP get free AP. Im sure I can do more with the Collodadillo. Next we'll be discussing Collodi's best pals the doll friends, followed by some Avatar Collodi pondering!
  3. So this thread keeps popping up, I thought I'd try to write up something to help you getting started with Nicodem. At this point you have probably bought the Open Graves boxset. So you have Nicodem, Mortimer, 3x Punk Zombies and the Vulture. Let's start with that assumption. Good buy, Nicodem is absolutely the boss and you are within the righteous faction of Malifaux, good for you. Nicodem is a toolbox to no end. What you need you get. Nicodem can be played in different ways, the most obvious being the Summoner he is. Do remember though, that you have the option to summon, it's not mandatory for you to summon all the time. Giving out Fast is a superb ability. To heal your models is also amazing. Slow your enemies? That is golden. He recycles cards like no one's business. Gives out to attack, defense and to damage (with an upgrade). So simply put: he's the King for a reason. You are probably wondering where to go next? What to get for him? Well let's start breaking that apart. You might want a big beatstick? That you can support, give flips to, make it even better than it is. Very solid options are: Beatsticks: Izamu (my personal favourite). Very solid Enforcer and a good carrier for Decaying Aura in a Nicodem list. Give him fast and he goes up to 4 attacks a turn with to attack and to damage built in with ml6 that are unpreventable, that will make some seriously dead models. Rogue Necromancy. Has already built in to attack and damage. Nicodem can give even more of those for him. Also Fast for this monstrosity is quite terrifying. Also Nicodem can heal him to keep him with his Three Headed rule so he keeps on getting those flips. The Valedictorian. Our beatstick henchwoman. Sold in the University of Transmortiis boxset, which is a very solid buy for Nicodem because then you can choose to summon the exact weapon you need as all the students are tailored to counter Constructs, Living or Undead threats, so you can wait to see what your opponent brings to the table and then summon a counter, beautiful. Valedictorian hits hard, is very durable, fast on it's own. Just make it worse for your opponent by giving her Fast and keep her even longer on the table with the healing. Everybody loves flips too. These are 3 solid options for a beatstick role. You want and can afford to bring one from the get go. Remember Decaying Aura to make things worse for your opponent. Support: Then the Support models. Nicodem can afford to bring more of these than others, so let's start with a few options on this department. Nurses. I rate these models as one of the best models in the game and my Nicodem always has one. Two? Some people use two, I never use more than one. What they do is make your beaters even worse than they are with +2 to damage, they can paralyze enemies from leaders to peons, everything with a very solid ca6. They also make everyone a scheme runner when in need. Or make your opponents on :-fate on all duels. Just solid gold for 5ss. (Sold separately but they also come in the McMourning boxset, a very good buy as you get a Flesh Construct, two of these, a Canine Remains and Sebastian. Plus one of the most fun masters in the game, McMourning.) Chiaki. Removes conditions, heals, pushes enemies, is durable. Synergizes very well with Nurses as you can Full Heal and Paralyze your own models. Say Nicodem or Izamu is at very low wounds. You full heal it with a Nurse and paralyze it. Then you take Chiaki and remove that Paralyze. Voila. Full wounds. (Sold in the Yan Lo boxset. You also get Ashigarus which are good minions.) Rotten Belles. Depending on schemes and points you have to spare these are solid gold. They cost 5ss so you can hire one from the get go or summon it in game if you see fit. You should get these though, they are another model that is among the very best in the game. (Sold separately but you find these in the Seamus boxset, where you get 3 of these, Sybelle who is a very very good Henchwoman too, as well as Seamus who is one of the most fun masters again in the game). Henchmen: Well you get Mortimer with Nico and he is just solid gold, one of the best movement tricks in the game for you whole crew basically with right positioning! Chatty to prevent and disrupt enemy schemes and Corpses to fuel the Summoning engine. Corpse bloat is a great upgrade for him to get even more out of him. Sybelle is a cheap and a very solid Henchwoman. She has amazing triggers with her upgrade and she becomes even worse with Fast which Nicodem as mentioned gives out like Candy. (sold in the Seamus box set) Toshiro for even more Fast, flips and support for minions. He is quite durable too, he hits quite hard and brings even more support. A solid consideration. (sold separately) Summonable minions: Now we get to where Nicodem shines. He just brings a solid list to the game from the get go and from there he builds it even better. Good go to minions that you will most likely like to summon is: Hanged. Seriously these are absolute monsters on their own, with Fast even worse for your opponent. You won't be making friends with these bad boys but you will be wrecking face. I wouldn't ever hire these with Nicodem, ever, they cost 9ss and you can summon them very easily, solid buy. (sold separately) Punk Zombies. I wouldn't hire these either. They cost 7ss which is a lot and they are quite easy for Nicodem to summon. Also they have Hard to Kill so they won't suffer from low wounds all that much. Solid solid summons. They hit hard as well. The Students. I mentioned these already but they are very solid to counter what you see on the other side of the table. Very good. I wouldn't hire them again either, because you never know what you will be facing and they are quite easy summons again. (Sold in University of Transmortiis) Mindless Zombies. These guys will be doing a lot card cycling and activation control. You take Maniacal Laugh and Undertaker upgrade, laugh up the corpses to Zombies and then start summoning out of those Zombies, so while you summon you also draw cards. Yeah. (sold separately in a 5 box.) Flesh Constructs. They have a ton of wounds, they hit quite okay but the best thing here is Devour. Which synergizes very well with Nurses Paralyze trick as they can insta kill models with Paralyze with a Ca6 and a (sold separately, but recommend getting the McMourning boxset) Rotten Belles. Board control. Get the enemy where you want and dispose of it. Just solid minions really. I can't speak highly enough of these. (sold in a 3 pack, recommend getting the Seamus box though) Scheme runners: Now we get to one more section I'd like bring out. You can bring these from the get go if you feel like it or summon them in game. Another good thing with Nicodem. Do note that the runners you summon can not interact the turn they are summoned in. Summoning sickness and all that. Canine remains. These are solid little critters with Nicodem. They can dig up corpses, do schemes, harass the enemy and when they die, you summon something even more worse out of them. Just very solid. (sold in a 3 pack) Necropunks. These are amazing. Among the very best of scheme runners in the game. With leap and 2 AP naturally that go to 3 AP with Nicodem giving them Fast. Well they do schemes like no one's business. (sold in a 3 pack, not available in plastic atm) Crooligans. Very good scheme runners too. (Sold in a 3 pack as well as the Molly boxset, good consideration to get the boxset again) Totems: Here we have 3 options really. Vulture. Nicodem's own little totem who is very solid indeed. I don't use it that much myself actually. But he is solid. Also a fun trick is to use the Vulture as a mobile pod for Undead Crowning to have the to damage where you need it. The Eyes and Ears that the Vulture has is a really potent and cool ability. Also for fun you can use the Vulture to carry around Mindless Zombies and drop them to enemies. Graveyard Spirit. This little bugger is very good with Izamu giving it armor 4. Armor 4 is no joke on a model such as Izamu. Haven't tried this one yet with other beatsticks but I've seen it used with a Rogue Necro and it was pretty annoying to face. (sold separately) Malifaux Child. Even more Fast for your models. (sold separately) There we have it a start of a Nicodem crew what you might want to consider and get. I will be updating this a long the way and I'd appreciate feedback and thoughts how to better this. Nicodem might be a bit expensive to start with as he likes to have a lot of models. But he is an absolute blast and well worth the money and time you put into him. You can always PM me for more info and if you want to talk tactics or ask questions or post them here. Cheers for reading, it was a long read but I hope it helped a bit with your struggle!
  4. PraetorDragoon

    Hamelin Tactica: Drown them in Rats

    Hello everyone! This is my first attempt at writing a Tacitca for use. I'm writing it for a master which I played a lot (and influenced) during the Beta, so I know a few of his tricks. The main idea is to share these with new players attempting to start him or old players trying some new tricks out. I speak, of course, of Hamelin. To make things easier, first blocks will describe the master without any upgrades. Improvents on certain things will be noted under the respective upgrade section. Stats First thing to see are his stats, which are pretty decent, yet average, across the board. A good wound pool and great wp, his other stats are among the average mold. He however, lacks any station characterstics (living, undead, etc) which means there are quite a few abilities that don't work on him, wheter good or bad. Lastly, he starts with a meager cache of 1. Remember this when construction your crews. Defenses Hamelin has two abilities toward defense: Nihilism, and Lure of Emptiness. He doesn't have any damage migation abilities, such as Armor, or Hard to Wound. Lure of Emptiness grants backup lives with nearby stolen. When Hamelin is killed or sacrificed, he may sacrifice a nearby stolen instead and heal some wounds. An useful ability that migates a bit Hamelin's innate squishiness. However, watch out for having a lack of stolen in a critical moment, as Hamelin is easily hit and takes the full brunt of an onslaught. Nihilism, on the other hand, is one of the most powerful defensive abilities in the game. It allows you to ignore any conditions as you see fit. This is entirely optional, and allows you to still gain the condition if you like it. Perfect if your opponent is handing positives mixed with negatives, as you get to ignore the negative conditions while keeping the postive ones. Don't forget to thank your opponent after that. Another thing to note is the Tyrant characterstic. This grants weaknesses towards the infamous Relic Hammers. Keep them away from Hamelin's face! (Relic Hammer bearers are Johann, The Captain, and Taelor) Blighted Blighted is the condition that Hamelin and his friends spreads out like candy. What does it do, you ask? Absolutely nothing. Don't let this discourage you! While I am saying that it does nothing, it does have important tricks to consider. The most important and deadly to remember is Bleeding Disease. This nasty spell deals damage equal to the current blighted stack to an enemy. It does not remove the stack, so you can freely fire away, racking huge damage for only a few AP spend. There are also other tricks with certain models, but we'll leave that for later. Blighted increases on it's own at the end of turn. Nifty right? Rats Hamelin wouldn't be Hamelin without his little rats. One rat is an unintersting sight, but there are far more hiding right out there. Rats spawn for free when an enemy within 6 of Hamelin dies. Other models can also spawn them. Rats are weak, cheap, small, and pathetic. They think so too, so they swarm together when there are four of them close to each other. (friendly or enemy) The resulting Rat Kings are more intimidating, providing a nasty way of getting rid of scheme markers, as well as improved damage output. (it's a little better) Due to the free rats, expect to always being able to out activate enemies. Actions Hamelin has several actions open to him. First of all, the Black Staff is his basic melee attack. It has a unimpressive damage track of 1/2/4, but ml 6 is nothing to scoff at. It has always access to two basic triggers, one which hand out blighted and another which increases damage by the blighted on the target, to a maxium of +3. His second action, are the Pipes, which is basically a lure. It has an auto trigger that deals damage and moves the target further if it has blighted. Lastly, bleeding disease has been covered already. Under tactical actions, he has a Lure Malifaux Citizen, a (0) that allows him to summon a Stolen in base contact. Stolen are jeleous and murder all non-stolen totems summoned this way. If you spend a soulstone, you are capable of hitting a trigger that allows him to do it all again. (sans trigger) Upgrades Of course, there are always upgrades, and Hamelin is no exception. The Plague First of his upgrades, Virulent denies any removal of Blighted within 6 of Hamelin. Prefect for letting enemies build larger stacks of blighted. Secondly, it allows the usage of two triggers, both which trigger automaticly. The first hands out blighted, which is handy for putting blighted on ranged. The second only goes of on blighted+4, but grants the target a condition that forces the enemy to discard two cards for each interact action... Or it simpely fails. Putting blighted on range is The Piper Hamelin's near-auto-take limited upgrade grants two powerful abilities. Irresistable Dance, and Obey. Ireresistable Dance forbids enemies from ending charges within 6 of Hamelin. Protecting him and his crew from charges, it negates one of the weaknesses Hamelin has. Obey with a build in suit is a very powerful tool in any master's crew, and Hamelin is no different. Tools of the Tyrant This upgrade grants triggers to the Black Staff, as well providing even more interact denial. Unhealty pallor allows Hamelin to heal for each blighted model within 3. Blight your friends first, and then use them as health packages! Remember that blighted doesn't do anything when not forced upon you.... The second trigger puts blighted on a single target within 3" of the damaged model. It allows you to put blighted on certain elusive models hiding away from your ranges. It has it's usages whithin certain combo's, such as setting up the 1 AP charges using Drawn to Contagation. The main selling point of Tools, however, is Face The Inevitable, a 6 that let's interact actions of enemies fail unless they discard a card. Suddely delivering messages, or distracting becomes a lot harder to do. Sewer King Last of the four Hamelin restricted upgrades, Sewer King grants Infiltration (Lost) allowing you to hire up to four out of faction Lost models. Currently they are Crooligans, Baby Kade, Iggy, and Candy. More on them later. It also grants Useless Toy, a (0) that let's you sacrifice any model of choice to draw two cards. If a stolen is sacrificed, enemy models within 3 of the stolen get blighted. Of course, you wouldn't want to kill stolen off all the time, as sometimes it's better to get rid of a near-dead model that has already activated. Or you could just kill rats. Infectious Melody A Nihilist option, infectious melody allows Peons and Minions to gain fast at the start of their activation. They die at the end of that activation, going out in a blaze of glory. Sometimes you just need that 1 additional AP. Survialist Not Hamelin exclusive, but deserved a special metion here. Most importantly, it grants him ridicilous levels of defense in the form of Hard to Kill. Hard to Kill works hand in hand with Lure of Emptiness, soaking attacks in tandem. First, hard to kill goes off, reducing you to 1 wound. Then, lure of emptiness goes off, healing you above Hard to Kill thresshold.. It's certainly worth the ss if you find that you die too often. Oh, it also grants on healing flips. Spreading & Utilizing Blighted Decided to make a list of sources & blighted utilities. Spreading Blighted For all intents and purposed, Rats & Rat Kings are immune to Blighted. Diseased gives blighted to enemies that activate within 3. Source: Obedient Wretch & The Stolen, ability. The Taint trigger gives Blighted +1 for each in the final duel total. Source: Hamelin, Black Staff. The Decaying trigger gives Blighted +1. Source: Hamelin, Pipes. Requires The Plague upgrade. The Contagious Touch trigger gives Blighted +1 to a model within 3" and LOS of the target when damaging. Source: Hamelin, Black Staff. Requires Tools of the Tyrant upgrade. Useless Toy, when you sacrifice a Stolen with this action, all enemy models within 3 of the sacrificed Stolen gain Blighted +1. Source: Hamelin. Requires Sewer King upgrade. Feed On Anima gives Blighted +1 on a hit. Source: Nix Rusty Trap gives Blighted +1 on a hit. Source: Rat Catcher Swarm of Yellow Teeth gives Blighted +1 on a hit. Source: Rat King. The Spray of Filth trigger gives Blighted +1 to all models 6 when the target is killed. Source: Rat King. Yellow Teeth gives Blighted +1/+2/+3 depending on the damage flip. Source: Malifaux Rat Drink Spirit gives blighted to all within 4 unless a Wp test is passed. Nihilist models are immune Source: Nix Using Blighted Bleeding Disease deals damage equal to the Blighted condition of the target. Source: Hamelin, Nix, Stolen & Obedient Wretch. The Black Death deals damage equal to the Blighted condition of the target, to a maxium of 3. This is a seperate damage source. Source: Hamelin. Voracious Rats summons a Malifaux Rat when a model with Blighted is killed within 6. Source: Hamelin & Rat Catcher Pipes moves the target equal to it's Cg when the target is blighted. Source: Hamelin The Sick In Bed trigger gives the target the Sick In Bed condition if it's blighted condition is 4 or greater. Source: Hamelin, Pipes. Requires The Plague upgrade. The Unhealthy Pallor trigger heals Hamelin for each model with Blighted within 3. Source: Hamelin, Black Staff. Requires Tools of the Tyrant upgrade. Models with Blighted +4 within 6 of an activated Plague Pit can't take interact actions. Source: Nix The Quarantine trigger increases the attack damage by 2 if the target has Blighted +3 before the action is declared. Source: Rat Catcher, Rusty Trap. Models with Drawn to Contagion can charge models with Blighted as a (1) action. Source: Rat King & Nix, Hollow
  5. Hello there New Players and Old Players alike! I've noticed this coming up in a lot of different threads on different forums and in game store discussions and thought it could use some additional discussion and reference: TERRAIN IS A BIG DEAL IN MALIFAUX The amount, placement and type of terrain will affect your game. And not in a small way either. Now most people will realize quite quickly that if they use a traditional Warmahordes board of 2 trees and a small hillock Masters like Perdita get muchmuch stronger as their shooting attacks dont have to worry about pesky LoS or Cover, so we have to cover the board in a lot more stuff to make things fair. Great guide Shine, seeya next time. But wait, picture the following scenario: Edonil and Mako are having a game. Edonil wants to try out his Seamus crew and Mako just finished building an entire Western town-themed board so they decide to play on that. The board has a moderate density of cool looking buildings and they start their game. Since each building has the blocking trait because of its solid walls Edonil has an easy time using Seamus' Back Alley action, which allows him to move massive distances when out of LoS, and snipes out large portions of Mako's crew, costing him the game. Both agree that Seamus felt a bit Overpowered and wonder how he got through Playtesting like this. However, in this scenario the board density might be fine but the terrain type is not. This board is nearly 100% terrain with the "Blocking" type. And while it looks awesome it gives Masters like Seamus a huge advantage and Masters like Perdita a huge disadvantage. Think of it another way, a board full of buildings is going to wind up as fair as a board full of rivers. Great for one type of crew (ones that can shoot over water) but less good for the type of crew that needs to Oregon Trail right over the river. This is Your crew on the Unbalanced Board Ok, so how do we handle this? Well locally we use a rough rule of thirds. For density squish all your terrain into 1/3 of the board. Fill that third right up. That terrain should look like this: 1/3 of the terrain should be blocking. Buildings, walls, Piles of crates, etc. 1/3 of the terrain should be obscuring. Vegetation, Walls with holes in them, an area of Mysterious Fog, etc 1/3 of the terrain should be Difficult. Rivers or water, uneven or rough flooring, snow, mud, blood, disco flooring, etc Then we want to spread that terrain out from the third we've bundled it into. This is an area that requires a bit more finese and less quick and easy to remember rules. I spread it out and make it look like a cohesive board then consult my opponent to make changes or perhaps notice things like the inacessible sniper's nest I accidently made for models with "From the Shadows" (an ability that lets models set up outside their deployment zone, like in the clocktower that would take 3 turns to get into normally). More experience with different models will help you in figuring out placement and what to avoid. In general though you want to have a roughly even dispersement of terrain types (So as not to start the melee walking master behind three rivers). Experience will help with figuring out the benefits of specific terrain setups So lets go back to Mako and Edonil. In their game they were missing a lot of the terrain types, but Mako still wants to use the board he worked so hard on. Well, he still can. Look closely at your terrain elements. Mako's Saloon has windows so he and Edonil both agree that it will be Obscuring to shoot through the windows of it and angle it so that the blocking wall wouldn't be blocking Mako's LoS to Seamus from most angles. They say that the main "roads" between the buildings have become muddy from over use and are difficult open terrain. The abandoned church has enough holes in the walls that its considered Obscuring now and the floors inside are going to be difficult as well. Their next game finds Seamus having a lot more trouble Back Alleying and Mako able to more accurately predict where Seamus is going to try to go and how to counter him. Mako still loses, but the game is much more enjoyable. This is a rough guideline of what to do for terrain. You can most certainly have more or less terrain, change the percents, but this guide will help you in experiencing Crews and Masters in a setting they were designed for, giving more meaning to how you set up your crew initially and just generally ensuring a more balanced and fun gameplay setting.
  6. WaltWizard

    Lets Build A Predita List

    Hello everyone! This is my first post so bear with me here. I have been playing Predita for a while and have been having quite a bit of success but when I go on the forums the lists are very different from what I bring. Let's work together to create an amazing Predita list. Obviously we can't be prepared for all schemes but we are trying to create a balanced list for many schemes. Anyways here is my current list: 1.Predita -Trick shooting 2.Fransisco -Wade in 3.Niño 4.Brutal Emisary -Confluence of the Hunt 5.Death Marshal 6.Lone Marshal 7.Austringer 8. 3 Soulstones (Total of 5) I use this lists in most games sometimes bringing in Santiago with Hermanos De Armas instead of the Lone Marshel if I need more range or offense (Make Them Suffer) and the Marshel for defense (Body Guard) That is the long and the short of it! But that is just me. What do you think? Leave a comment on how you would change the list. All ideas are great to here! Thanks for your support!
  7. Surrealistik

    Leveticus Tactica?

    Is there a good/comprehensive guide for playing Leveticus, including match ups, crew compositions and the like? I am already familiar with the content on PullMyFinger.
  8. Hateful Darkblack

    Leveticus Tactica: Burnt Offerings

    I was a little surprised that there wasn’t already a Leveticus tactica on the forums here. I figured I would take a shot at one. I'd also like to link to an essay I wrote a few months back, Why I Love M2E Leveticus. Much props out to all the badass Leveticus players I’ve learned from. Especially drool_bucket and Lucidicide, who are premier players who really know their stuff. Leveticus is a steampunk necromancer, a scavenger who recovers stray parts both dead and mechanical and salvages them into horrible new creations. He’s quite a departure from most Masters, in that his mechanics revolve around the fact that he’ll probably die several times and keep coming back. He also has the dubious pleasure of having the absolute largest possible hiring pool of any master in the game. Playing against Leveticus the first time can be a shock: he’s easy to kill but keeps coming back. His attacks almost always hit, do decent to huge damage, and bypass most defenses. He jumps around the board. He summons by killing you, and his Core Crew models all have unusual mechanics of dying, being reborn, being created, and combining together. Once you get used to him, he’s still very dangerous and potent. His resilience and his mobility all rely on odd crew mechanics: to come back from the dead, he needs a Hollow Waif, plus another model to anchor the Hollow Waif.
  9. SpiralngCadavr

    Mei Feng tactics article

    Hi all, just finished my second big tactics article, this time on Mei. Starting off... In keeping with aggressive pose, Mei Feng is a powerhouse and anchor of her crew, which I quite enjoy, as I tend towards support commanders, so I'm very much in to the idea of a strong commander who can still run support a little. She's got a bit of an odd character because, while she's a bouncing death ball and has some useful defensive support, it's her Henchman, Kang, who brings more of the power and offensive support to the crew. Link to the main article
  10. SpiralngCadavr

    Mei Feng tactics article

    Hi all, just finished my second big tactics article, this time on Mei. Starting off... In keeping with aggressive pose, Mei Feng is a powerhouse and anchor of her crew, which I quite enjoy, as I tend towards support commanders, so I'm very much in to the idea of a strong commander who can still run support a little. She's got a bit of an odd character because, while she's a bouncing death ball and has some useful defensive support, it's her Henchman, Kang, who brings more of the power and offensive support to the crew. Link to the main article
  11. I've been hosting a lot of game nights and I've noticed something coming up a lot: New Players don't (1)Focus. It's understandable, its not a specific action on your model's card, its not cool like slapping someone in a Pine Box, but it is what's going to start winning you more games. (1) Focus, as mentioned, is a general action so any model in the game can take it. Some are built around it, being able to gain the benefits for less AP or through other means, but it can be very worthwhile to spend your precious AP on using it for its regular cost. Focus is going to net you a on your attack flips and a on your damage flips. Most commonly people start venturing into Focused attacks when they have a shooting crew. The you suffer from shooting into cover gets canceled out by your to attack. Which is awesome, you're far more likely to hit someone when you can cheat your attack flip and arent taking the worst of two flips. Even when you aren't suffering a penalty, the highest of two cards flipped is pretty nice. But the real power of Focus is in that to damage. So we all know the table: Ties are :-fate, 1-5 is , 6-10 is neutral and if by some Black Jokered twist of fate you beat your opponent by 11+ you can have a . Now 6-10 points above your opponent is tricky. You can do it sure, but more likely with something whimpy. If you have Nekima or a Coryphee Duet on the table, your opponent is going to be saving some cards to try and keep those beater models from beating you by a wide margin. But if you focused, you're now going to be on a neutral flip AND be able to cheat against most models (reducing the bite of Hard to Wound on others) so long as you beat them by more than a tie. This in particular is great for models with higher than average moderate damage. Coryphee for example have a 2/4/5 damage range, so having them able to cheat damage means you can double your damage for a 6. Now you are giving up an AP to focus in most cases. I think a lot of players can fall into "well, I hit for 2/3/4 so if I hit them twice for min damage, thats 4, which is better than 3". Or simply just having more opportunities TO hit your opponent, which IS true. You shouldnt be focusing every model every activation. But you should be focusing models you want to hit for max damage. A 1/2/4 profile is not going to get that 4 very often without focus, but a lucky flip from Neutral is going to quadruple your damage. And dont think of it as a wasted high card on lowly minions, that high card was going to be a lot more wasted when it was discarded in favour of the Ace beneath it. Anyway, play around with Focus. Its a very powerful ability and you're really going to like cheating Red Jokers in for damage more often.
  12. I'm Dirial, and welcome to Malifaux! If you are reading this, chances are you are a beginning Malifaux player. You have probably picked up a Crew Box because you liked the look of. Someone in your play group did the same thing. You started your first match and you were utterly destroyed by turn 2. And now you worry about the game's balance and/or if you picked a sub-par crew. Alternatively, you are an experienced player with a few matches under your belt. And now this greenhorn marches in, with his new unpainted crew no one in your group plays. And that greenhorn blasted you from the table and you doubt your sanity or something. Alternatively, you are a veteran player coming in here to give your nod of approval or hark on me. If so, feel free to correct me or chime in with more advice. This is a small guide on how to deal with ranged crews. Since similar questions were asked repeatedly in the forums, I thought collecting the answers in one place might make for a useful resource for new players. Normally, these questions are about a single Master that gives people grieve. Often, it's Perdita Ortega. Also often, it's Rasputina. Sometimes, it's other Masters, too. And almost always, the problems would have been similar if one of the other ranged Masters would have been on the other side of the table. So, I'll first talk about ranged crews in general, and then about some specific Masters. This is not a guide on how to beat ranged crews handily. I give in to the wishful thinking that the game is perfectly balanced and that winning doesn't come down to ranged or not ranged but gaining victory points. This guide should turn the game into a tactically challenging experience for both players. So, first, some short things about me, so that you can evaluate my pointers. Earthside, my name is Florian and I'm a psychologist from central Germany. (I'm no native speaker, obviously, so if some error disturbs your reading experience, please PM me and I will correct it.) I played Warhammer in my youth and I'm an avid Hordes player. I started Malifaux just when the beta for 2nd Edition started. I don't have that much gaming experience since our group is small and spread out, but I make it my pleasure to read as much as possible. In that regard, I thank all the more experienced players and forum users whose ideas I have shamelessly copied and pasted. Also, I play Guild, so if you have problems with ranged crews you will usually find me on the trouble making side of the table. Now, what to do if you get riddled with lead in an absolutely unfun way: Step 1: Be a good sport about it. This is my inner psychologist talking but especially if your opponent is learning the game, he doesn't want to hear how overpowered his crew is and that his victories are tainted by insufferable cheese. Furthermore, don't rant at him for bringing such a crew in the first place. Hurt feelings don't help anyone. Instead, talk about it and ask him for his opinion. Most people don't like winning too easily any more than losing that way. Now, if you ask yourself „What is the condescending git talking about? Who would do such a thing?“, you didn't need this first step. Which is an admirable trait. Step 2: Check your terrain. If you come from other games like Warhammer or Warmachine, chances are you are used to way too little terrain. Read the following articles by Ratty and Mister Shine: How much terrain do I need What terrain do I need and why This is the most important step for bringing your games up to balance. Too much terrain and the ranged crew will be at a disadvantage, to little and it's the other way around. Step 3: Now that the terrain is properly placed you should have a good look at it. Watch for fire corridors. For sniper positions. Regard the table from all sides so you aren't surprised by some window you didn't see. Most ranged crews will let you deploy your models first, either for From the Shadows, or just to see where you will go. Choose the side that will grant good cover or where the ranged crew will have to move before the get good lines of sight. In short, know your battle field and don't walk into a shooting range. Step 4: Be prepared to lose stuff. Ranged crews do their damage before the melee starts. It's only natural. Often, your opponent will play a mind game where he tries to kill an important model Turn 1 so you are too scared to come for him. If this brings him another turn of shooting it's worth the investment. Don't fall into this trap. Keeping your distance will not keep you safe. Clinging to your models will make you vulnerable to this psychological warfare. Many ranged models are severely hampered if they are in melee. Double walking into melee can be worth it even if you can't attack. It will keep the shooters busy and your other models can come out of cover to line up charges. Be prepared to lose that tar pit model, as well. Step 5: Identify lynchpin models and take them out. In short, know your enemy. Read his cards. If you get beaten, call for a rematch. In most crews, some models are keeping the crew together. The have an important bonus or guard the sniper or can get others out of melee. These have to die. The faster the better. Step 6: Don't bring a knife to a gun fight. If you know the opponent will shoot (if he declared Gremlins or Guild, and probably Outcasts, as well, or if you know him and he just prefers shooting) bring some anti-shooting tech. Many factions have some models who can generate cover or block line of sight. The latter thing is generally best, but cover or similar abilities seriously hamper the damage potential of shooters. Step 7: Okay, now comes the obligatory, but ultimately best advice: Play your Strategy and Schemes. Malifaux is a game about victory conditions. Theoretically, you should choose your crew for the victory conditions and the faction of your opponent. This is skewed normally for beginners, as they only have one or two crews and normally know what their opponent has, as well. But the game is not won by killing the most models or the enemy Master. It's won by keeping your goals and the goals of the opponent in mind all time. Deny your opponent his victory points while playing for yours. If the opponent has to come to your half of the table, wait for them to do so, for example. It will save you walking into the gun line. I hope some of these pointers can help you on your way to the tactically challenging game you deserve. For their (unknowing) contributions to this first part and the second below, I'd like to thank all veteran forumites who give advice to new players, and especially dgraz, Fetid Strumpet, Mister Shine and Ratty. Now, I will get into some of the crews the play the ranged game with some more specific advice. Since I haven't played that many of these, I would greatly appreciate someone chiming in. I will gladly edit such advice into my post later.
  13. I actually posted this as a response to someone asking for help on how to learn the game in a month before moving to college. This is a few things I picked up when I started playing, and things I really wish I had known when I started. Feel free to add to what I’ve said, and correct me where I’m wrong. I hope this helps a few people out at least! I can tell you that it will be more than helpful to go over the downloadables here. Read all the stat cards a few times. You don't need to memorize them all, but it helps to have seen the abilities that are common and that you can expect to see in games. Try to pick out some of them and note that you need to cross-reference the effect a certain rule has ie: "What does poison do?". Those are the things that I really found I needed to know when playing my first games as they weren't necessarily written on the cards in every case and I would have to ask or open my rules book (don't be afraid to do this!). That being said, it's a little bit irritating now to see someone searching through the original rules book. Grab the new-compact version. Buy 2 copies, keep one in your car and read it whenever you have downtime instead of playing a cell-phone game. Also, be sure to go on your local store’s forum if they have one, introduce yourself, let them know that you’d like to start playing there, and I’m sure you’ll be welcomed into the group, if not forced into the store by gamers anxious to have new models to fight against! A List of Recommended Items to Purchase to Begin Malifaux: · Two Decks of Malifaux Cards, One Puppet, one normal colored deck of your choice · At least 2 Box Sets of the same Faction (ie: Arcanists: Rasputina and Marcus) · The Totems for each of the masters you purchased. (ie: Essence of Power and Jackalope) Thanks to Sephiroa for this description of Totems: a totem is a small minion connected to a master, every master has a specific totem for him/her rasputina = wendigo justice = scales of justice mcmourning = zombie chihuahua etc... In addition to Master Specific Totems, there are also faction totems: arcanists = essence of power ressers = grave spirit etc... if the master dies, so does the totem · Glass Beads to use as Soulstones (really helps with the feel of the game, and there is no question about what they are on the table for) · The Rules Manual (compact version) Some Nice Things to Have if You Can Afford Them: · A Carrying Case of some sort. I use a Pack-Mini from BattleFoam. It holds 2 full crews plus some extra models for variance, my cards, and beads no problem. · A second copy of the rules manual to keep in your car or backpack all the time. · I recommend buying the 2 core rulebooks, however it isn’t essential, but if you can afford it, these are great things to have for so many reasons. Here are a few things I would really recommend doing out of the gate to make learning the actual game easier: · Keep a copy of the short rules with you at every game. · Study your own cards to the point where you have them memorized completely. · Have your cards laminated – removes the need for HP counters · Have some form of carrying bag or tray – don’t want to stress over transporting stuff · Keep laminated copies of the common talents download with you for quick reference · Keep 2 decks of malifaux cards with you and be acquainted with the artwork so you aren’t distracted by the gorgeous artwork on them. And be sure you can identify what card is what. I struggled with the puppet cards for a bit, they aren’t too clear what they are at first glance. · If the models aren’t standing up really sturdy, add weights (coins) to the underside of the bases to avoid models falling over on terrain and possibly snapping staves or arms off during the game. · Following the last point, keep a small tube of model glue with you that you’ve used before and are familiar with for field repairs ·Be sure to go into a game with an open mind and humble attitude. You will encounter rules you do not know, and see abilities that seem OP and wreck your face. That said, most people are generally nice and helpful if you’re willing to accept their help and not be argumentative. · With the above being said, do not be afraid to question a rule or ability. Ask to see your opponents’ cards if you aren’t sure, or even just are curious of their abilities before the game starts, or even mid-game. It’s totally acceptable. Refer to your rules book as you need. Don’t be embarrassed, none of us have every rule memorized (excluding some OCD players I’m sure). Players won’t fault you for being sure you’re playing by the rules. · Shuffle your cards very, very well, and always offer your opponent the chance to cut your deck every shuffle. Cut theirs every time. This removes any question of counting or cheating in any fashion with the cards. · Keep obvious markers for special abilities. It’s paramount to know what status effects are out, what counters are on the table, etc.… If you play a Ressurectionist, you probably want to keep a few corpse counters. That sort of thing.
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