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Found 23 results

  1. Rapid Growth League, San Antonio TX

    Starting on Saturday January 20th at 12pm, Knight Watch Games (https://www.knightwatchgames.com/) will be hosting a Malifaux beginner friendly Rapid Growth League. Per the rules (as shown in the Organized Play pdf in Wyrd's resource section), the league will run 4 weeks, with each week starting on Saturday afternoon. If you can't make it to League Night (day?) you have the rest of the week to get in your game. This is an achievement based league, so you get points for playing, points for painting, even points for buying stuff at the store. So, you don't have to win a lot to be victorious, you just have to be the most active. Entry fee is $10, which will go towards store credit prizes at the end of the league. So, declare a faction, grab the stuff you want to play (and hobby on) and join us! More information can be found here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1524482484548081/
  2. Servus, Am 01.02.18 starten wir unsere erste Malifaux-Liga. Diese richtet sich an Anfänger und Profis. Gespielt werden 3 Runden in 3 Monaten mit steigender Punktezahl. Es gibt keine festen Pairings, jeder kann so oft mit jedem spielen wie er will. Die Details findet ihr hier Wenn ihr Interesse habt schreibt mir einfach eine PN oder schaut einfach im Playground vorbei Ich seit herzlich eingeladen und ich freue mich auf eure Teilnahme Euer, Space_Monkey
  3. Hi all, Malifaux made its way to the very southern Germany, not far from the border to Austria. After growing the community a bit i decided to take part in the henchmen Programm and here we are. If you are interested in the game, let me know it: Write an email rtc.verein@gmail.com or contact me via pn and we will find some time where i can Show you the game. We have some very nice Club rooms in Georg-Aicher-Straße 4 in 83026 Rosenheim where i usually play but im very flexible with the location cause of own Terrain and gaming mats. I usually Play during the week from 8-17 but as mentioned, we will find the right time for both. Greetings, Leo
  4. Hallo zusammen, unser Club die Feldfürsten startet am 10.06.17 eine einsteigerfreundliche Kampagne. Ihr könnt natürlich auch noch nachträglich einsteigen, ihr seid jeder Zeit willkommen Wenn Ihr Interesse habt, gebt uns hier bescheid. Weitere Infos: http://forum.feldfuersten.de/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=201 Die Highlights: http://forum.feldfuersten.de/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=260 Unser Club: http://www.feldfuersten.de/ueber-die-feldfuersten-e-v/
  5. New to Malifaux, and new to this forum! And that of course means I'm full of questions! But first some background: I have managed to rope some friends into playing both Malifaux and Infinity with me, if I supply both sides of the fight. I see this as a win-win, as I get an excuse for some hobby expenditure with the added motivation that I'll have an opponent ready once the figures are ready! Recently, I got to actually play a few games of Malifaux using the starter box and its two 4-man crews. I was hooked, and I want more. While I do want to just grab whichever Crew looks the coolest, I do want to keep in mind that I'm actually looking to get two Crew boxes. Not only that, but optimally I want two Crew boxes that would result in interesting games when pitted against each other. Any recommendations on two (or more) Crews that are newbie friendly and that could give interesting games when pitted against each other? I want the sessions I can get out of these Crews to really sell the game of Malifaux to those that I invite over to play. Cheers!
  6. First off, I want to say that I'm not all-knowing and I'm writing this to help out some friends who are having a bit of trouble with the difference between Malifaux and other wargames. If you want to offer some insight, I'd be glad to read it! Second, I know that @Rathnard put an article similar to this in Wyrd #8, but it was... well... it's obsolete now, and I'm not here to heckle another man's writing, particularly when it served as a foundation for my own work. I just felt as though a more organized method of evaluating a model would help players understand what category it fits into and when to use them. Anyway, off to the body of this thing! THE SEVEN ROLES OF MALIFAUX MODELS AND HOW TO USE THEM Games of Malifaux are won or lost on ignorance. Period. Luck can be a factor, as can skill, but when you see lopsided games that came down to 10-0 it was because one player possessed knowledge, and the other did not - and often, the difference between a 9-7 score can be attributed to an unfortunate moment of "WHAT?!" Not knowing your opponent's models is understandable; there are nearly 300 models in the game, each one with unique niches and twists. But not knowing your OWN models - what they are capable of, what strategies and schemes that they can achieve for you - is asking for defeat. Some people pick up the knowledge in a try-and-die way, others fanatically study podcasts and wikis and battle reports, but neither are necessary if one actually looks at a card and evaluates it logically to see which of six roles a model fits into. And I'm here to teach you how to do just that. Not only will it help you understand your own models, but using this method will let you quickly assess your opponent's models and note what roles they're likely to do... which will give you more knowledge of how the game will proceed. Five of the roles will be superficially familiar to any MMORPG player - with twists just for Malifaux - but one is unique to the game. Those roles are Beater (Removes models from the table to win), Tank (Endures damage to win), Buffer (Modifies statistics, enemy or ally, to win), Controller (Causes extra movement to win), Summoner (Creates new bodies and more Action Points to win), Schemer (Generates extra Interacts to win), and Fodder (Outweighs activation order to win). Many Malifaux models fit into several of these roles; for example, Colette can do almost all of them. She can attack four times in a round at a high Ml and decent damage track; is nearly impossible to kill if she's laid Scheme Markers properly and the opponent lacks an ability to bypass triggers; redistributes her own AP and generates Soulstones/Cards; moves friendly models around; summons Peons; and can benefit from her own aura as well as various triggers to generate additional Interacts and Scheme Markers. She's better at some of them than others, (only rarely will she take swings on models herself), but she CAN do them. Conversely, Sonnia Criid is ONLY a Ranged Beater - while she can absolutely delete enemy models, particularly grouped up ones, Sonnia struggles to do anything else aside from some highly circumstantial options on her upgrades. Each role is suited for different categories of Victory Points (Schemes and Strats), which I'll briefly touch on before going into the nitty-gritty of how to evaluate a model. They are Placing, Removing, Interacting, and Mixed. Placing VPs are earned by having models in specific locations - center of the board, edge of a table, quarter zone control, and so on. Beaters, Tanks, Controllers, and Summoners are all good for Placing VPs. Beaters remove scoring enemy models, Tanks stand their ground, Controllers move enemy and friendly models, and Summoners just outplace their opponent - and Fodder, summoned or not, can be important for simply outnumbering the enemy. Turf War and Take Prisoner are examples. Removing VPs are all about taking models off the table (permanently!) to win - the only twist is whether it's you that wants to remove the model, or your opponent. It's both sides of the same coin. Beaters and Tanks are REQUIRED for this one, all models but Schemers have a role to play in these VPs. Frame For Murder and are examples. Interacting VPs are earned by that unlisted action, Interact. Schemers and Summoners are the go-to models for Interacting, but Controllers can move models to more easily use Interacts, and Significant Fodder can simply bury the opponent in cheap AP to win. Mixed VPs require two different categories above, and are more common in the Gaining Grounds documents. Headhunter, for example, requires Beaters to kill, but also likes Schemers to Interact with the dropped heads. Undercover Entourage is both Placement and Removing (or the lack thereof). When you flip over the game's Scheme and Strat mix, mentally divvy them into the above categories and see if there is any overlap that might make your selection of models easier - if you have Reckoning, Make Them Suffer, and Assassinate in the pool, it's easy to see how you can earn multiple VPs from well-chosen Beaters. Reconnoiter and Outflank, Line in the Sand and Squatter's Rights... all similar VP conditions that certain models could easily dominate. Now that we've loosely defined which VPs go with which model roles, let's explain how to DEFINE a model's role. While this is meant as a guideline and there exist exceptions to each role, the vast majority of Malifaux models are covered herein. BEATER Beaters are raw damage dealers. and as such are generally necessary in almost any build - yes, VPs may depend on scoring Interactions and placing, but removing enemy models can deny opponent VPs, which is just as important as scoring them yourself. Defining a Beater is usually as simple as running the raw numbers. Do they: 1) Have at least one attacking stat at 6+ which they can use often? 2) Deal at least 6 damage total minimum in one activation, including Poison, Burning, free and normal Actions like Flurry and Sidearm, or Triggers? 3) Ignore any Tank abilities such as Armor, Hard to Wound, or Triggers? If at least two of the above apply, the model is a Beater. Like most wargames, Beaters fall into Ranged and Melee categories, but unlike most wargames they also may target different defensive stats, which gives a further level of definition. The reason for #3 is that some models with those may not deal a great deal of damage overall, but when an opponent has a hefty Tank on the field they are invaluable for removing said Tank. A lot of models, especially Masters, qualify for the Beater category, and in a pinch can do just that - but the difference between a Master that could deal damage or one which is dedicated to dealing damage is usually obvious and defined by how many other roles they fit into. My personal notation for these tends to go "Sonnia Criid Beater Ranged Wp" but you may prefer something different. TANK While nothing in Malifaux is invincible, Tanks are defined as models that require a great deal of AP to remove. This requires real calculus - is removing said Tank necessary for your VPs, or can you ignore it? Tanks rely on more than just raw Df/Wp and Wd to survive; the other abilities on the front and back of their cards are just as important if not more so. When evaluating a model to see if it's a Tank, look at the following: 1) Does it have at least one Defensive stat at 6+ and more than 8 Wounds? 2) Does it have reliable defensive Triggers with the necessary Suit built into one stat? 3) Can it force passive duels just to target it, such as Horror or Manipulative? 4) Does it have any kind of reliable self-healing, either through a Tactical Action or Regeneration? Suited Triggers on attacks shouldn't be counted unless the Suit is built in. 5) Does it have damage reduction, through Abilities like Armor and Hard to Kill, or Actions like Bat Eyelashes or Southern Charm? Count each one seperately. Usually, if at least three of those apply, then it's a tank - and the more that apply, the better. Exceptions can be made for exceptionally strong stats and/or upgrades; as mentioned, Colette is ridiculously hard to kill if she's been dropping Scheme Markers, and Pandora with The Box Opens is almost not worth targeting with anything less than an El Mayor'ed Perdita. BUFFER I place Buffers and Debuffers in the same category, because they do essentially the same thing: Modify printed or unprinted statistics - amount of AP, cards flipped and in hand, or Soulstones in Cache - to help you score VPs. If it helps you to divide them into two separate categories, then do so, but sometimes in Malifaux an Ability or Action (such as Zoraida's Obey) is both a buff and debuff. Defining a Buffer is tricky but possible. Can it: 1) Redistribute its own AP to other models? 2) Generate or restrict certain Actions? 3) Modify printed Statistics, either through Abilities or Actions? 4) Modify number of cards flipped? 5) Add or remove Suits on duels? 6) Modify unprinted statistics - AP generated (lowering or raising), Soulstones in cache, or cards in hand? 7) Change the number of Wounds dealt? 8) Change the order of activation? 9) Restore lost Wounds to any injured model, not just itself? 10) Remove Conditions? Any of these means it buffs, but only models with at least two or three could be called Buffers. Oftentimes they're the linchpin of a list, the combo piece that other models rely upon - and since few of them are Tanks, it means that special care should be taken in identifying and removing Buffer models. The last two numbers, #9 and #10, are especially important, as healing models are rare in Malifaux. CONTROLLER Superficially, Controllers are similar to Buffers, but with a major difference - whereas the Buffer focuses on the numbers OFF the table (stats and cards), Controllers focus on what's ON the table and where it is. There definitely is overlap between the two; Zoraida's Obey can be used as a buff (to create extra attacks) or as control (to move models around the table via their own Walk actions). However, the number of models with Control abilities outstrips the number of models with Buff abilities and do something else entirely, so it's helpful to have them in their own category. Defining Controllers seems simple, but has a few twists. Does the model: 1) Redistribute its own AP? 2) Generate any inches of movement for friendlies? 3) Generate any Terrain? 4) Remove models from the table via Burying? 5) Generate extra movement for enemies? While any model with these abilities count as Controllers, and the more the better, it's only the last point, #5, which defines the strongest Controllers - moving your own models is great, but moving enemy models is fantastic. SUMMONER Summoners create extra bodies and more AP, simple as that. The advantage of Summoners is that they trade one of their AP for multiple AP over the course of the game - if the Dreamer summons a Lilitu that has three total AP and then takes two AP to kill, then the Dreamer player is up a total of (3+2-1) 4 AP. That is incredibly important, and good players behind a Summoner can control the entire course of a game. However, while there are a lot of models which can summon, they are not equally distributed, and many of them are bound by tight restrictions that make them nearly useless. Sonnia Criid's Reincarnation Upgrade is hardly worth planning a game around, whereas Nicodem's entire game is about placing models. The most important factor is whether the Summoner can generate Significant models. Summoning such models can make many Schemes and several Strats almost trivial to achieve if used well. However, even Insignificant summons can weight a game's activation order in a short time, and help other models achieve the VP condition. Almost all the worthwhile Summoners are Masters, but there exist exceptions - the Mechanical Rider is probably one of the best models in the game partly because of its ability to generate Significant models. SCHEMER Schemers are unique to Malifaux as a wargame. While any Significant model can spend their precious AP to Interact, Schemers are defined as models which can generate extra AP that allows it to use Interacts and still perform other Actions - moving, attacking, and so on. When evaluating a model to see if it's a good Schemer, check for the following: 1) Can it move at least 4" and still have two AP to Interact, or 7" and still have one AP? 2) Can it generate Scheme Markers through any Triggers, Abilities, or Actions? 3) Can it move or remove Scheme Markers? #1 is important because that's the distance between two Scheme Markers, meaning it can lay out most of an entire Scheme's needed output in one turn. #3 is important is because removing an opponent's Scheme Markers prevents them from scoring, which is just as good as scoring themselves - and often, models which remove Scheme Markers do so in exchange for benefits, such as the Guild's Executioner. Taking a Schemer is not always necessary, even if there is a solid Interact Scheme in the pool; Controllers and Buffers can turn any model into a highly effective Schemer, and Summoners can place Significant models right where they need to be in order to Interact. In fact, not choosing one can be a solid misdirection about which Schemes you've selected. On the other hand, it's hard to argue with a Silurid's or Necropunk's ability to catapult itself across the board and do its job. FODDER Fodder models are, in essence, disposable. Fodder is vital for activation control; if you have 10 models and your opponent has 7, that lets you stack 3 models in a row after theirs. Fodder also usually have few options and are obvious in what they're doing, meaning that little information is revealed if you activate Fodder early in the turn, compared to models with lots of options that you may wish to hold back and respond to the opponent's moves. When checking the card for its Fodder potential, look at: 1) Is it 4 Soulstones or under? 2) Is it Significant? 3) Can it be Summoned? 4) When it is removed from the table, does it have any special effects? If the answer to ANY of these is 'yes', then it's Fodder - but the more yeses, the better the model is. Most of the time, Fodder dies quickly, but if activated quickly it can still do its job - especially if that job is dropping a Scheme Marker or two. Sometimes, fodder even WANTS to die, and can thus serve as further activation control: Your opponent has to target this 2ss model before it Bacon Bombs all over his face, or your opponent doesn't want to target the Performer because Colette just finished activating and is within 2". IN CONCLUSION There's a long standing Sun Tzu quote about knowing yourself and your enemy and how it influences victory. I won't repeat it; if you've read it you'll skim over it and if you haven't go look it up yourself. Besides, this entire post is a paean to that quote! Using this method is very, very simple; most experienced players have arrived at a method much like this one for judging models. This is just an explanation of the process and how to do it yourself in a highly organized fashion. I hope that reading this helps you play the game. Malifaux is a game with outstanding rules and wonderful models; but it is also crowded with highly complicated models and difficult to understand interactions. Simplifying each down to a broad category has helped me as a player, and I would like it to do the same for you.
  7. Hello Wyrd fans! I will be running my first tournament for a new but growing Kansas City area Malifaux scene on Saturday, July 17 at Tabletop Game and Hobby in Overland Park, KS. As most of the expected players are new, we will be using a few changes to the gaining grounds document to make it a more friendly and casual event. The Details: 35ss hiring pool Fixed faction and master 3 rounds with strats and schemes taken from the core m2e rulebook All rules will follow the m2e main book and the official FAQ/errata Painting not required, but highly encouraged 2 hour rounds with half an hour for lunch and a 15 minute break between rounds 2 and 3 Registration starts at 10, play begins at 10:30 $10 registration fee per player going into the randomly drawn prize pool Merit awards for outstanding play and painting Hope to see some more of the new players in the area make the trip out for a fun day of Malifaux! https://www.facebook.com/events/1762558710652274/
  8. The Armoury in is New Bedford is hosting a 4 week slow-grow league to help some of our new players get better acquainted with the game (veterans equally welcome!). Where: Games to be played at The Armoury When: Starting Wednesday, January 20th, until February 17th. New week begins each Wednesday. $$$?: entry fee is $10 Loot: Prizes based on participation! There will be store credit, weekly bingo prizes, and if I'm able to acquire one, prizes from the official tournament kits. Sportsmanship and best painted crew box will also win stuff! Structure: Week 1 is to be played with 20ss games, Henchman lead. Week 2 is 30ss, you may use a master. Week 3 is 40ss, week 4 is 50ss. You may play anything in your declared faction. Up to three games may be played per week. You get 2 points for winning a game, 1 point for tying, and 0 points for a loss. Points will be used to determine the overall winner. Bingo prizes: Each wedsday anyone playing games at the store will receive a bingo card. Bingo prizes may include paints, tokens, various malifaux products, etc. The Armoury is located at 58 Conduit Street in New Bedford,MA 02745. 774-202-0441
  9. I'd like to get some advice about two masters that have the following characteristics: 1st: Cover the Strategies between them very well (for example: I read that Tara is very good at reconnoiter but struggles with Reckoning, which master would cover that weakness?) 2nd: Use the most shared models (for example: Collette has a lot of showgirls but no one else in arcanists really uses them, that would be a strike against) 3rd: Decently competetive I am looking to build a compact 2 crew travel collection that I can use to get games in wherever I find myself. I am on the road a lot so I don't want to have 70+ models in my carry on. Right now I am thinking of focusing more on a fast master that would be good for reconnoiter and schemes, while having the second be fairly elite and hitty for turf war and reckoning. I havent got enough games in to make a informed decision and would love any help or opinions you could give. In short, I want to get two masters that can cover the game's various scenarios while using the most models in common to do it what are your picks? Some pairings I have been considering: Nico/Seamus or Nico/Molly or Kirai/Molly (Good model crossover) Dreamer/Pandora or Collodi/Zoraida (some model crossover) Hoffman/Lucius (little model crossover) Levi/Tara Most of these I've never played or played against so any help would be great.
  10. When a plan goes wrong

    Hello again everyone. The blog is a day late this week but I wanted to spend some time talking about what to do when your game gets away from you. How do you recoup? Whats your counter plan? As always comments and suggestions are appreciated. http://malifolks.blogspot.com/2015/02/best-laid-plans.html
  11. new to malifaux

    Hi all, I have yet to have my first game of malifaux, but it looks really interesting and I love the models. What faction would you recommend for a first crew, and what box set would be the best first buy? I would personally like to pick a starter set from either the Guild or Neverborn, but I'd like a second opinion on this.
  12. Hi ! The month of May begins the beginners league of Malifaux at The Drobbit Hobby Store in Barcelona, C/ Melcior de Palau 147, Barcelona (Spain) If you want more info, please sent me a pm
  13. Hi all This is my first post on the forums, and i'm (as the title suggests) quite new to malifaux. I purchased two crews for The Guild faction, Lady J and her Death Marshals and Criid and her Witchling Stalkers (purely based on looks, i mean, cowboy Ghost Riders? who could pass them up!). I go into the game with my older brother, who bought various crews for various factions (Lilith, Mei-Feng, Rasputina and soon to be getting Freikorps). I've played roughly 6 games, a few with him, and a few at my games club that roped me into the game. I've got most of the rules down, and can play full games with little reference to the rulebook, but im having extreme difficulty actually doing well. In fact, i've not won a game yet XD. Partly due to luck, (i've pulled red joker once out of my 6-7 games, and had some awful hands at really important times ) but mostly due to the same thing every game; other crews seem to be able to do some crazy trick im just unable to counter that wins them the game. I got quite frustrated playing against a more experienced player using guild lawyers who held my entire crew up almost all game whilst Lucius sat claiming objectives (Lady J couldnt kill a 4 wound model) . I've also had a problem with Lady J been torn apart by EVERY single thing she has EVER engaged (she hasnt killed a single model yet). Quite frustrated with these dirty tricks, i've come to see my crews as no-where near as good as these tricky crews, as i just cant play them effectively enough to counter them, even when i know what they are doing sometimes. I really just need some help with general tactics and nasty combos to get me started with the crews i have, as playing is fun, but when im annihilated every game by pretty huge margins, its kinda frustrating. Everyone seems to say that The Guild are Jack of all trades, but i'm not really seeing that as a strength when i'm going up against these crews that can always seem to out trick me. If i try to out-shoot, they just move faster than me and close the gap. If i try and melee, i always fluff draws and fail to kill people (Case number 1: Lady J) Some general help would be nice, from anyone more experinced and/or tactically minded, as im signed up for a friendly malifaux tournament set up by the local henchman at my club, and if im gonna do this bad in it, i might as well take my own wooden spoon . Quite a lengthy post, but thanks in advance to anyone who can be bothered to read i and can help me XD Jordan
  14. Hey Malifolks! A beginner's question. I have Seamus, and he has the "Terrifying" ability. I'm reading the mini-rulebook, and am still confused how this process works. Could someone clarify for me? This is how I understand it so far... "enemy models must pass a TN 12 horror duel..." - which means they use their WP stat, and then flip a card, and add the WP to the flip, and if they hit a 12 or higher, then they PASS the Terrifying and don't suffer any penalties. - If they get an 11 of less, then they become "paralyzed"? Once paralyzed, they would loose any remaining action points, and basically end their activation immediately for the rest of the turn. At the start of the NEXT turn, is paralyzed no longer on that model? Should that model and Seamus still be engaged at the start of the next turn, would the enemy model then have to take another Terrifying check for targeting Seamus with a melee attack? Part 2: Seamus' card/model triggers* "Terrifying" two different ways... 1) if the enemy model ends its walk/charge/double-walk within Seamus' melee range (1") -- this would apply then if the enemy model simply lands within his melee range, regardless if they are targeting Seamus or not right? 2) if Seamus is targeted at all. Which would mean, if an enemy model is shooting or casting a ranged attack on Seamus? *I know it's not an actual "trigger", I just wasn't sure what other word to use.
  15. Hello all. I started Malifaux recently and have been devouring everything available on Pull my finger and the forums. I'm considering a Pandora list, but I'm having trouble wrapping my head around the right balance between support models and models that get things done. Sorrows seem great. Negative twists for wp duels? Sure! Insidious madness? Moar duelzzz! Negative wp flips! Bwahahaha! Doppelganger? Twice the trauma! Those models all cost a decent amount of soul stones, especially in multiples. But then what do you get to actually accomplish things for you? It seems like taking terrifying things is a good idea to force more wp duels, but terrifying models are costly as well. So what's the balance, and are some support models better than others? Is there a consensus on which beater is most efficient with Pandora? How do you deal with the fact that your opponent will out-activate you?
  16. First game - all proxies - Lady J v Seamus. Really enjoyed it, so i'm converted! took a while to get a hang of some rules - got no rulebook and the PDF isn't clear on some things, and has some things in funny places. Played half of game getting hard to wound wrong (bad for me - lost all me belles!) Didn't work out you only get one (0) actions per turn until near end. Game still felt very quick despite constant checking of rules, cards and internet. biggest query by end was this: why on the stat cards for some spells and triggers are some suit symbols greyed out, and some black? On madame i had some with one white crow, one black, two blacks, and some with a white and a black. We figured they meant a combination of with stat or with card...but couldn't work out what! looking forward to getting some figures (if i can find a FLGS that sells em) and a rulebook...plus some terraclips. Chris
  17. Hello, I'm interested in getting into Malifaux, I've never played it before and I'm about to buy my first models. Are there any open groups that operate in Auckland, NZ? I'd like to find some people who I could learn off and play with. Cheers, arachan.
  18. Hey everyone. Until very recently I had never even heard of Malifaux (I was living in the sheltered world of WH40K), but after trying a game at my local gaming group I have become hooked as I enjoy that it's more character/story driven than 40K, is set on a smaller scale which allows for a more intimate engagement with whats going on (and makes it easier to transport and spend £ on) and yet still retains a really competitive side aswell. Anyway, leaving that aside, despite enjoying the look and playstyle of several crews I have decided to make Seamus and his Rotten Belles my first crew. But before buying my models I have a couple of quick questions: 1. I'm not too sure what SS level to start at. I was thinking of aiming for about 25 SS, as that would be small enough to learn with, but would be big enough to buy a few of the more 'exciting' models as well. What do you think? 2. I'm looking for a fluffy yet competitive enough Seamus crew so I was thinking of the following purchases for a 25SS list: Seamus w/ Copy Cat Killer -2SS Madame Sybelle - 6SS x2 Rotten Belles - 8SS x2 Crooked - 8 SS 3SS (and x1 Dead Doxy model available for use when a corpse counter becomes available, so I can basically trade a Belle for a Doxy once it dies and save 1SS) I'm thinking this is a balanced enough beginner setup that has decent moving speed, is tough to kill, can manipulate some enemy crews, has decent close combat abilities, and has some nice long range firepower with Sheamus and Copy's .50s and both Crooked Men's Shafted/Cave In. What do you guys think? 3. I haven't yet got any of the books that tell the back stories of the various crews, so I was just wondering what you all to be consider 'fluffy' Seamus choices? I know you can make it up yourself, so for example at some point when I'm used to the rules and want a bigger crew I will definately be getting an Onyro because I love how the models look, so I have already thought that it could be the spirit of an Asian Geisha who worked at the Brothel that Seamus butchered and so is eternally bound to the misery she experienced there. But I was just wondering what you all consider to be the more likely minions that would feature in a Seamus crew aside for the obvious Belle's and Madame? 4. Is Seamus one of the more popular crews in Mailifaux. The reason I'm asking is because if he was overplayed ala Space Marines in 40k, depsite how much I like his crew, I would consider switching over to McMourning or even Karai as I tend to enjoy fielding armies/crews that aren't overlypopular or flavours of the month. So as a beginner to Malifaux those are all the questions that I'm stuck on at the moment. Basically I'm thinking that in order to get started I'll buy the Red Chapel Gang set, a box of Crooked Men and a box of Dead Doxy's, but if I've missed anything or there would be better choices available I'd appreciate any and all comments and critiques so that I can alter my first purchases. Thanks D-A-C.
  19. Rules for demo games?

    I don't know if this is the right section, sorry if it isn't. So I've searched the forums and found threads on which armies to use, at what size, and how to present the game when demoing it for people, but... 1) Should I use ALL the rules for Malifaux or introduce a group of them each game (puppet wars-style). 2) Also, should I throw all the rules at them as we start the game or bring up each rule as it's applicable? Finally a friendly critique of Wyrd; as someone just getting into the game it would have been nice to have the option of a "beginner's box" that came complete with two armies, two card decks, and intro as well as expanded rules. As a longtime wargamer I was okay getting into Malifaux without a local Henchman, but I'm thinking there's a lot of people who don't want to surf the web to find two balanced armies and study the rulebook before their first game. Just sayin
  20. Hi everyone, My gaming buddies and I were just talking about a possibility of playing Malifaux. I just started with miniature gaming and am currently playing Infinity and Warmachine/Hordes. So here's my token "What faction to get" thread. A bit of a background: As mentioned, I'm playing Infinity with Pan-Oceana as my faction. I currently play Cygnar, Cryx and Legion of Everblight on Warmachine/Hordes. I have not read the rule book yet. I'm hoping to find a quick start rules guide. So please enlighten me with the basics of each faction and why I should get your preferred faction. I don't mind a similar play style with my above mentioned factions. Thank you.
  21. I got into Malifaux after Auscon in Brisbane earlier this year, when myself and three others from the Queensland University Games Society (QUGS) ordered crews from Phoenix Forge. My showgirls sat unpainted for a long time until I was issued a challenge by one of the other players - If I finish my crew before he finishes his second (The Dreamer) I would win a Desperate Mercenary. The prospect of prizes got me going, and I finally attempted to paint the models. As a forewarning, I have barely painted anything before these, and my camera decided to act up whilst taking the photos. http://imgur.com/a/pRZYQ#qIap0 A few of the photos: (Sadly he has withdrawn the challenge because he has not even received his crew from Maelstrom yet, so he gets to keep the Desperate Mercenary. I was so looking forward to making him the bouncer of Collette's club as well!)
  22. I actually posted this as a response to someone asking for help on how to learn the game in a month before moving to college. This is a few things I picked up when I started playing, and things I really wish I had known when I started. Feel free to add to what I’ve said, and correct me where I’m wrong. I hope this helps a few people out at least! I can tell you that it will be more than helpful to go over the downloadables here. Read all the stat cards a few times. You don't need to memorize them all, but it helps to have seen the abilities that are common and that you can expect to see in games. Try to pick out some of them and note that you need to cross-reference the effect a certain rule has ie: "What does poison do?". Those are the things that I really found I needed to know when playing my first games as they weren't necessarily written on the cards in every case and I would have to ask or open my rules book (don't be afraid to do this!). That being said, it's a little bit irritating now to see someone searching through the original rules book. Grab the new-compact version. Buy 2 copies, keep one in your car and read it whenever you have downtime instead of playing a cell-phone game. Also, be sure to go on your local store’s forum if they have one, introduce yourself, let them know that you’d like to start playing there, and I’m sure you’ll be welcomed into the group, if not forced into the store by gamers anxious to have new models to fight against! A List of Recommended Items to Purchase to Begin Malifaux: · Two Decks of Malifaux Cards, One Puppet, one normal colored deck of your choice · At least 2 Box Sets of the same Faction (ie: Arcanists: Rasputina and Marcus) · The Totems for each of the masters you purchased. (ie: Essence of Power and Jackalope) Thanks to Sephiroa for this description of Totems: a totem is a small minion connected to a master, every master has a specific totem for him/her rasputina = wendigo justice = scales of justice mcmourning = zombie chihuahua etc... In addition to Master Specific Totems, there are also faction totems: arcanists = essence of power ressers = grave spirit etc... if the master dies, so does the totem · Glass Beads to use as Soulstones (really helps with the feel of the game, and there is no question about what they are on the table for) · The Rules Manual (compact version) Some Nice Things to Have if You Can Afford Them: · A Carrying Case of some sort. I use a Pack-Mini from BattleFoam. It holds 2 full crews plus some extra models for variance, my cards, and beads no problem. · A second copy of the rules manual to keep in your car or backpack all the time. · I recommend buying the 2 core rulebooks, however it isn’t essential, but if you can afford it, these are great things to have for so many reasons. Here are a few things I would really recommend doing out of the gate to make learning the actual game easier: · Keep a copy of the short rules with you at every game. · Study your own cards to the point where you have them memorized completely. · Have your cards laminated – removes the need for HP counters · Have some form of carrying bag or tray – don’t want to stress over transporting stuff · Keep laminated copies of the common talents download with you for quick reference · Keep 2 decks of malifaux cards with you and be acquainted with the artwork so you aren’t distracted by the gorgeous artwork on them. And be sure you can identify what card is what. I struggled with the puppet cards for a bit, they aren’t too clear what they are at first glance. · If the models aren’t standing up really sturdy, add weights (coins) to the underside of the bases to avoid models falling over on terrain and possibly snapping staves or arms off during the game. · Following the last point, keep a small tube of model glue with you that you’ve used before and are familiar with for field repairs ·Be sure to go into a game with an open mind and humble attitude. You will encounter rules you do not know, and see abilities that seem OP and wreck your face. That said, most people are generally nice and helpful if you’re willing to accept their help and not be argumentative. · With the above being said, do not be afraid to question a rule or ability. Ask to see your opponents’ cards if you aren’t sure, or even just are curious of their abilities before the game starts, or even mid-game. It’s totally acceptable. Refer to your rules book as you need. Don’t be embarrassed, none of us have every rule memorized (excluding some OCD players I’m sure). Players won’t fault you for being sure you’re playing by the rules. · Shuffle your cards very, very well, and always offer your opponent the chance to cut your deck every shuffle. Cut theirs every time. This removes any question of counting or cheating in any fashion with the cards. · Keep obvious markers for special abilities. It’s paramount to know what status effects are out, what counters are on the table, etc.… If you play a Ressurectionist, you probably want to keep a few corpse counters. That sort of thing.
  23. Hello, I'm a new player and I've managed to one game in with my So'mer crew (played very basic with almost no spell usage) and found the game fun even when limiting myself. But in all, I think I still got most of the concepts down for the game, which makes me glad because I'm leaving for Japan in a few days to study for a year and I plan to take my minis/books with me to teach the game to others when I'm there. So this brings me to the main question: what are the easiest crews to play with? I already have So'mer (as mentioned earlier), Ophelia, and Lilith, and I'm thinking of getting one or two more starters, but I'm not sure which ones I should get. All I know is from what I've read here and in the books, I should probably avoid Leveticus and Pandora, but who is simple in terms of gameplay? Thanks.
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