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Found 19 results

  1. Base Size List

    Using Malifaux's Vassal program and own personal experience I have compiled an excel document that lists all base sizes for all the miniatures so far. Each page is its own faction and it's sorted by size then rank. Hopefully, this will help those in the future? It was kind of a personal project but I was told it might help others. Please let me know if: I'm missing a character A base size is incorrect The number of characters is incorrect There are alternates Anything that needs to be fixed really I want to make this as accurate as possible. Malifaux Models.xlsx Thanks to Amdor for corrections.
  2. Base inserts

    Hello everyone, new member, waiting on my minis to arrive and have a question. Can someone please tell me the sizes I would use to create base inserts for these models? I can only assume that a 30mm base would use something like a 25mm insert or something close to that. I hope to have a few ready for when my models get here. Went with Seamus and the red Chapel box, my wife chose the Vitoria sisters box set. EDIT: OK, well the answer is 23. 23mm (or .9") is the inside diameter of the 30mm bases.
  3. Malifaux Raptor base

    From the album LowRes Paint

    First of three Malifaux Raptor base

    © Ask Your Fox

  4. Hi Wyrdo's! Wamp is abuot to end its Fusion Kickstarter. This is for a nifty display basing system that allows you to mix and match various floors, walls and plinths to easily create great display bases. We have just a few hours left to go but we have fully funded and are unlocking various things as we go inlcuding FREE stuff! If you haven't already feel free to check it out: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/wamp/fusion-bases
  5. Base Hanging.

    So the concept that I do not see clearly defined in the rules is whether or not model bases can hang/protrude off of a ledge. So I have played many games, both for and against, all depending on my opponent’s wishes. Here are the rules I've played with and I would love to have the community's thoughts on the matter. Pro-bass hanging: A model can have their base protruding off of the ledge as long as it's not over 50% of the base and can support itself by staying balanced. Anti-base hanging: as soon as a model breaks the defined ledge, the model falls immediately. Somewhere in between: I've also played where models can protrude off a ledge as long as it's not a vantage point, (2" or more) but if it's a ledge greater than 2 inches the model falls as soon as it breaks the defined ledge. Slope vs. ledge: This is further complicated when non/right-angles are involved. It is very easy to define ledges based on 90-degree angles but as soon as slopes are involved, I've gotten into some debates. What this all means to me. Pro-bass hanging makes for easier, somewhat sloppy, casual play. In addition, there are fewer headaches with pragmatic miniature shenanigans. For example; you have a 1 inch box that a 40mm base model wishes to stand on. It's quite annoying when Nimble Mr. Langston can't stand on a freaking box. Anti-base hanging makes for less practical but clear-cut, rules-lawyer tournament play. However, it complicates things in one significant way. You have a walk bonus as soon as you fall by breaking the ledge with your base. If I have a 50mm Teddy with Dreams of Darkness which gives him flying, he only has a wk:5 but could theoretically fly over 2" crate, break the ledge, fall for free, and keep doing it theoretically moving Teddy almost 13 inches "legally" if the conditions were perfect. In addition, heaven forbid you found yourself in a "shipping yard" terrain set-up where all the crates are 49mm square and spaced 49 mm apart. What do you do then, teleport Teddy anywhere you wish?
  6. Hey everyone I was looking through some tutorials and the people showing off their skills usually use a base or structure to held the miniature up in order to get a easier grip (and no fingers on the miniature itself). Do you guys glue the miniature to the temporary painting base? Do you "nail" them with a very small piece of steel? How do you do it? I can only imagine the miniature being glued by the feet, for instance. Thanks
  7. Putting together my The Thunder set I come across what I consider an awkward sized model, Sheng. While her stat card says the smaller base, the over-hang from tail to nose and even a couple of paws seems more attuned to a medium base. So my question is, is it okay to put her on the medium instead or should I submit a ticket to Wyrd and see if they agree and would up the size of her base, or lastly, get over it and have her hanging off the base?
  8. Hi Everybody! I have a question: A mission says that I take VP if a model and/or a base of an object, at the end of game, is within my deployment zone. If the base, at the end of the game, finishes its movement not entirely in my deployment zone, does it give me a VP? Thanks ^^
  9. Kirai-med-bas.jpg

    From the album PeeJays mixed models

  10. peanas.png

  11. IMG 7944

    From the album Salvage & Logistics - Kugelfang Studios

    © KugelfangStudios - 2015

  12. Kang base size?

    What size base is Kang supposed to be on?I picked up an old style rail crew box and it came with only 30mm bases, but the 2e book and cards say 40mm.
  13. Rasputina´s Ice Pillars

    This topic has probably been done to death already, but Here are my Ice pillars for Raspy, because you know she loves them and that Plastic base with a marker annotation is not cutting it anymore. You can find in my blog some photos of the process if you're interested. They're a breeze to make. If you're cool with Spanish, you can read the process in cold, hard detail at www.heribertohobby.wordpress.com . Chill! Next thing I'll do is to embed some LEDS inside these babies. If you aren't so friendly with my mother language and still want to know how they're done, I'll be glad to oblige. Cheers!
  14. Ice Golem with Resin Base!

    Hey there Everyone! Today I'm showing you my finished Ice golem. With this, I have fully painted the Rasputina crew (it was a blast to paint!); this guy was mounted over a custom made Resin base. do you like it? What do you think about it? Cheers!
  15. This tutorial will show you how to quickly and easily create brick bases for an army using greenstuff or any other sculpting putty. I'll show the steps for building a simple press mold to quickly make nice bases. For this tutorial I used a flat round base, but the method would be almost the same using an inset base for Malifaux. I'm new to this forum and wrote this tutorial for my blog, but I thought I would share it here as well. The final product. Materials -greenstuff or milliput (or any other air drying putty, I use milliput as it is cheaper) -a base (recessed like warmachine or malifaux or flat top like GW bases) -chapstick or vaseline (a lubricant, many others would also work, I used chapstick) -plasticard or cardboard (only a few square inches) -paint and flock -miniature bricks -sand paper Procedure I recently saw this tutorial [ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMcAV4RPbJQ[/ame] on building brick bases and casting to create bases. I don't currently have a casting kit or materials so I decided to try it with a press mold. I was also inspired by these cool brick Mordheim bases at Massive Voodoo (a great website, lots of incredible stuff). This tutorial will show you how I made a simple press mold to make lots of brick bases for a Mordheim warband. I tried two different techniques that I will show you here. Part 1: Build a press mold First we need to build the press mold. I have a small bag of these little bricks I bought online. They are pretty useful for basing. Our first step is to cut a piece of plasticard or cardstock out to the size of our finished mold. I built mine about 50mm x 50mm, slightly larger than a 40mm square base. The plasticard will make the final mold a little more durable. I then made a thin layer of milliput of a uniform thickness around 4mm on top of the plasticard. Cover the top of the milliput in vaseline or chapstick (to stop the bricks from sticking as much). Plasticard and milliput The next step is to make the design we will want for our brick pattern. I decided to stick with a simple pattern as I think it will show up best on a small base. You could use more complex patterns. I pushed the bricks a few millimetres into the milliput in a fairly uniform pattern. I left a few spaces where bricks have fallen out. Once this is done, leave it to set overnight. Small bricks pushed into the milliput at a uniform depth. You want it deep enough to create a good indent. Alternative methods The first mold I built I first glued the bricks to a 40mm base and then pressed the greenstuff on top of the dried bricks and base. This worked alright, but it was harder to control the depth of the mold. Bricks are glued onto the 40mm square base. Master is pressed firmly into the greenstuff. If you do not have the tiny bricks, you could still follow this tutorial by creating a master by carving bricks individually onto a 40mm base using sculpting tools and an exacto knife. Once it had set you could follow the procedure above. Part 2: Make a base After setting overnight, our press mold should be ready. Carefully pop out each of the bricks. You can use a sanding block or some sandpaper to clean up the master (I tried to get mine to uniform height using a sanding block). A blurry picture of the two press molds. The mold on the left was made by pushing in bricks, the mold on the right was made by pushing the putty onto the master (method two). You can see the difference in depth with the two methods. Get the base you want for your final model. Create a thin layer of milliput or greenstuff on top of it (you could go really thin and just have the top of a brick layer of you could go thicker and have the full bricks). Put some chapstick or vaseline on top of the milliput once it is smoothed. Take your press mold and push it down on top of the milliput. Push firmly so the indentations go in a few millimetres, but not so firmly that it all squishes out over the base. After molding. After pushing the mold down, carefully remove it. You should have something like what you see above. Some of the lines might not be deep enough. Using your sculpting tools or an exacto knife, carefully clean up the lines between the bricks. You can also remove damaged bricks and draw in cracks and indentations if desired. Let the milliput cure for a few hours and then add some sand and ballast in some cracks and larger damaged areas. Add any other details you want on the base. You can see here that I have cleaned up the cracks between bricks, removed some bricks, and added a little bit of sand. I would recommend using your tools to make sure the lines between bricks are on the outside edges too (I didn't do that here). You can see where I sanded the outside edge as well. Part 3: Painting and flocking After curing, your base is now ready. You can clean up the edges using sandpaper or a sanding block to create a smooth outside edge. You can then drill the base to pin a miniature onto. Prime the base and paint it as you would for any other model. I quickly painted mine by painting it with Americana Raw Umber and then drybrushing Codex Grey, Bleached Bone, and Skull White overtop and the dulling it down with a thinned wash of Devlan Mud. I glued on a little bit of flock with PVA glue to create some moss between the cracks. To improve the look you could paint the bricks different colours. Additional details like rubble, wood, scrap metal, etc. on top of the base will also improve the illusion. Here is the final painted base. Next time I would spend a bit more time on the painting. I think the painting is a bit bland. You can see that we have created a decent stone brick effect though. Milliput or greenstuff? I used milliput for most of this tutorial. I generally dislike using straight milliput for sculpting as it tends to flake and stick a bit for me. I usually mix greenstuff and milliput. For bases like this though, milliput is much cheaper. It is also possible to sand milliput to clean up the bricks and the edge of the base. I would recommend using milliput (or something similar) over the more expensive greenstuff. Greenstuff would definitely still work though if that is all you have. Hope this helps someone. Enjoy!
  16. Sorry, no actual ham here. This is more of a "new to multi-part metal and resin minis" post. I've been collecting miniatures off and on since Partha's AD&D line and Blood Bowl, but most of that was single-part or maybe gluing on a sword. For the most part assembling the multi-part minis have not been bad- it's a bit irritating but the trade-off is much more interesting and dynamic figures. I'll manage. I got my nice Winter Shale bases from Micro Arts Studio via FRPGames recently and based up my Rasputina crew. All things considered, it went fairly well since it was my first major pinning operation. My old method was lots of JB Weld and hope, which didn't work quite as badly as one would imagine (I have a poor Huma's Silver Dragon mini somewhere that would argue otherwise, but I digress). Rasputina, the Storm half of Snow Storm, two of the three Gamin, and the Ice Golem went without a hitch. The Silent One's arm fit perfectly into its socket, and I somehow managed to get a small pin into one of her feet. Since she's in a three-point stance I figure that will work (not sure what to do with the ice crystals though). Snow's hands- one fit nicely, the other not so much. They are on for now but I can see myself having to attempt to pin them later (with what, I have no idea- bent staples?). At least de-tabbing her was simple enough- I'm going to magnetize her so that I can opt to use her as a second Silent One as necessary (thanks to whomever suggested that idea- I'm still very much in-the-box when it comes to working with minis). Storm's horns were tricky, but some filing seems to have helped. Miss Demeanor's been giving me trouble. One arm fit great, the other not so much. A little filing seems to have helped, but I am not convinced it's going to last. At least pinning her to the fencepost insert from the Graveyard set went well (other than a prick from the pin vise). I'm loving the bases (both Micro Arts and Wyrd's inserts), and it's amazing how much cooler the figures look on them. I am sold on good basing now, whether bought or customized. Then we get to 3rd Gamin. The one I nickname the Groovin' Gamin because he looks like he's dancing a jig (as opposed to the Ready Gamin and the Knuckle-Dragging Gamin). While I was sawing off his tab (note to self- might need a good non-vacuum vise), his right leg broke off at the knee. Since that's his support, I'm at an impasse. I was able to put a pin in the other leg but now I have a gimp Gamin. Am I the only heavy-handed fool that's done this? Here are my options as I see them: Just glue it back. Been there, done that, doesn't seem to be working. Pin the leg back. I have maybe one bit small enough to not completely destroy the thigh, and even then I don't know if I can find anything that will both pin it and actually hold up. I could try my hand at sculpting a replacement leg, but again, no idea what gauge wire to use as an armature. I'd probably have to cut the leg off as close to the body as possible. Any advice on how to fix our little icy buddy? I am glad I didn't start with Ramos or Hoffman- I think the constructs would've put me in a straitjacket.
  17. 50mm Morgue Base

    Just got the McMourning crew set. The Flesh Construct has a 50mm base. I bought the 50mm Morgue base but it overlaps the insert of the 50mm base by a large margin. The 30mm base inserts fit perfectly. Can anyone clarify this? Was I supposed to get the 40mm insert for the 50mm base? Thanks.
  18. Base for Dead Justice set

    I am looking at a variety of bases for my Dead Justice crew. My initial idea would be some urban rubble bases to fit in with the idea of the crew uncovering itself from the rubble of the building just dropped on its head. The other idea would the wyrd graveyard base inserts to for the dug up from the graveyard idea. Thoughts? Additional ideas?
  19. Hello, So I just got into this game about a week ago and picked up the Neverborn starter. Here is the first one finished so far. More to come soon, I hope.
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