Jump to content

ZeeDeveel

Vote Enabled
  • Posts

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

ZeeDeveel's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

6

Reputation

  1. Lol yes I thought this too. I've been using Rosemary brushes and I'm not getting on with them, I actually at the same time bought a pack of really cheap synthetic brushes that I planned to use for drybrushing only, but the brush shape of the cheap brushes seems to work a lot better for painting tiny little Malifaux peoples. The bristles on the Rosemary brushes are quite long and have a curved profile, where as the synthetics are more triangular and pointy which I'm finding easier to work with. I'm also finding the Rosemary brushes are beginning to fray. I've ordered a WN size 0, they seem to be more angular shaped. Some things I've discovered or some things I've thought about are as follows: I've seen a lot of painting tutorials where people say they use a size 2 or a size 1 for nearly all their painting, but Malifaux has such small details that I think trying to stick to use these brush sizes is handicapping for me. In terms of paint consistency I've found it's very easy to overwater the paints, wetting your brush slightly seems to provide enough water to make a 1:1 mix with a drop of paint. Clearly using droppers is a better idea. I've ordered some matte mix, I will try using that and when that runs out, if I'm not gonna buy more, I can use that bottle for my water. People always say you should water down your paints, but I think getting the right consistency is incredibly important. I've heard people say it's better to add too much water than too little and I think I've taken this advice on board and been adding too much water which makes the paints run into the details. When people say you should mix 1:1 or whatever, I think that's fine for a basecoat but I've tried using this sort of paint for edge highlighting or painting highlights on fine details and it just runs into the crevices and ruins the paintjob. So I plan now on using a 1:1 mix for basecoating and perhaps something similar for layering paints but if I have to do any fine detail or edgehighlighting, I'm barely gonna water it at all. I've been using Vallejo paints and I watch painting tutorials and people blob a drop out from their droppers and it looks very viscous, sitting in a tall blob. Have Vallejo changed their ratios since these vids were made? I can shake and shake and shake my paints and for the most part they still come out fairly runny. Then I start trying to mix them 1:1 and they just turn into a complete mess. Another thing is, on these painting tutorials you see people skipping the multiple layers they're doing and the drying times etc which is a key part of painting. I'm finding that not waiting for the paint to dry completely before painting over it ruins the model, not putting enough layers on of thinned paint looks awful and that the paint looks very different when it's being applied to when it's dry. These nuances are missing from most tutorials as are the actual mixing of the paints and what goes on on the pallet in general such as how to get the paint on the brush, how much to dab off on kitchen towel etc
  2. Really excellent posts, thank you all. The spraying with different colour primers from different angles is cool, I have grey and black, I might try grey from above, black from below, do you think it makes a big difference? I've also ordered from Glaze Medium and Matte Medium to use in addition to water to give my thinned paints a bit more adhesion!
  3. Ok a few questions... I started painting my guys, they're looking "ok", not embarrassing but not great either and I'm having a few problems. I'm using a technique of basically base coating, then washing, then trying to clean it up with another base coat then layer up some highlights with thin paints. However, I hear people say things like "Using a 2:1 water, to paint mix" which is fine, I can see that it gives a nice thin layer, but it just pools in the recesses and doesn't cover the raised areas well. So instead of preserving the detail of the miniatures by using thinner paints, I'm actually ruining it! My Illuminated female now has webbed fingers. Should it be possible to use a 2:1 Water:Paint mix without this happening? Is it just that I'm putting too much paint on my brush? To be honest, I find even with a 1:1 mix I'm still having this problem. Do I need to only put very small amounts of paint on the brush each time? What ratio of Water:Paint should I be using for base coats and what ratio for layering? For highlights it makes sense that you want a thin layer which is translucent but at the same time, if you're only trying to hit very raised areas, you need the paint to be quite sticky and not runny. So for edge highlighting and final highlights do you use it straight out of the pot? Oh and what size brush?
  4. Thematically I think he's a better fit than Howard and certainly than a December Acolyte. He's just a big freak. Possibly better with a tutu. As said delivering him with a bird is a possibility and with 5 attacks he's gonna be healing for obscene amounts, if he kills 2 units per turn, he's healing for an average of 9 wounds a turn including his zero action. Plus he's terrifying all which adds to his tankyness and he's got his chain to drag himself around and prompt to push him around to overcome his poor walk distance... In fact presumably after he's done killing stuff, on the 3rd prompt you could try to push him out of range of Colette before he activates. Malifaux Child could be attempted but surely would be too close to the fray and get killed easily... and the birds are useful for activation control + Killjoy bomb delivery. Are two Coryphees worth 14 points? The advantage of just having the Killjoy with all it's healing is it means you only need 1 prompter because he's so tanky. Then you can use your remaining 37pts for board control, mobility... Ice Dancers, Performers etc.. ? I guess the Coryphees are very mobile and can pop down a free marker every turn.
  5. Any love here for Killjoy? That enormous bastard rampaging around, attacking 5 times a turn and healing himself everytime he kills something and with his 0 action sounds pretty obscene?
  6. I've done the cobblestone bases, I got better as I was doing them and one of the early ones I did looks awful now by comparison. It's set and been painted however. Will it be possible to dig it out and start over? Or will digging it out be very difficult? .. Also is it still possible to get Mr. Cooper's Dark Carnival set?
  7. How do I prime these mofos? Here's the problem: Their bases are covered in green stuff so I can't stick them on their bases and spray them together... and they don't have that bar between their feet like GW models to hold them by... Also some of them have separate bits which I want to spray on their own because they obscure the model and would make painting difficult... could I just hold the model with gloves and by a certain part and then spray it again holding a different part after the first spraying has dried? Or do I need to drill into them and pin them? This would require me buying an appropriate drill.
  8. Thank you for your posts guys, I assembled my 2 crew boxes on the weekend and let me just say: oh my God, what an ordeal. Why the hell did they make these models so fiddly? I had an Alp which came with a separate neck! I had to attach a leg onto the Dreamer's near microscopic handholding companion and glue 2 mandibles to a woman's face which was so small I could barely see it lol.
  9. I've painted a bit of Warhammer but the enormity of the task of painting a Warhammer army really put me off. I managed to achieve an OK look by basically just base coating models and slathering them in wash. They looked a bit messy though. Here're some Lynch models I think are painted well, my suspicion is that washes have not been used:
  10. Getting ready to paint my minis at the weekend but I'm not sure how to go about the shading process. Doctor Faust of Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic uses multiple layers starting off with a very dark layer and then gradually building up the base layer and the highlights in thin coats on increasingly pronounced areas. Doctor F tends to reserve washes for the same kinds of areas he does his dry brushing e.g. chainmail. Lester Bursley on the other hand seems not to use a dark base layer and goes straight in with the base coat and then uses a dark wash to do all the shading, then he will clean up the base layer and do his highlights after. Could someone advise me as to which approach I should take with my Lynch crew box? It seems like using washes is quicker and easier, but will I achieve the same quality finish? Or should I be selective about when to use each approach and if so, when should I use each approach? Thanks!
  11. Thanks man, I went with Lynch, I think you're right. She's gonna have mostly Nightmares and I will have mostly Darkened/Illuminated, so our crews should be plenty different. Then later I think I will try Asami or Somer. I think Bayou Gators look incredibly strong for their low points cost, but Gremlins have so much synergy it seems wasteful to have any Swampfiends.
  12. Hey folks, so I've ordered a bunch of paints and whatnot and The Dreamer for my gf and I know what I'm getting my friends for Christmas.. but still not sure what to get for myself. I was leaning towards Sandeep but he's not out yet and none of the other Arcanists excite me... In fact I actually feel like the Arcanist faction is really lacking theme. The cool thing about Malifaux is all this darkness and wyrdness, the Arcanists seem a bit middle of the road. So here's my thinking: Arcanists: A bit boring thematically, unless you go with mechanical like Ramos but I've never been a fan of this kind of mechanical theme. Colette is cool but I don't think I'd enjoy painting a bunch of exotic dancers. Ressurectionists: I like them a lot but they've got my Little Friend's name written all over, so I'm gonna leave them for him... Although I could maybe still play these too. Ten Thunders: Again the theme doesn't do it for me really and I think my Hairy Friend would like them. Neverborn: My GF is gonna play these, but I think they look awesome. Guild: I don't like any of their masters, although some of the troops are pretty cool. I do like the idea of the Guild thematically. Outcasts: Some interesting stuff here, Hamelin, Viktorias but nothing that really grabs me and I think their playstyles wouldn't fit with me mostly. Gremlins: They seem cool, but I don't know if I'd regret not going for something more "awesome". So here's what I'm thinking... Either Som'er, Ophelia or Wong potentially.. I'm happy to go with any of those if I can't come up with anything else but I was thinking about perhaps Jakob Lynch? Even though my girlfriend has picked Neverborn, I'm guessing because Lynch has this whole "Darkened", "Brilliance" thing going on if I did pick Lynch my crew would end up not looking anything like my girlfriend's Dreamer crew, yes? So perhaps Lynch is the answer? Also Lynch could lead to Asami when she comes out too, right?
  13. Initially I will be painting The Dreamer starter crew box with my gf... and possibly a box for me, though I'm not sure what yet! It'll likely be Arcanists. The colour selection I've picked it missing an off-white, any shades of grey, a bright gold, a standard silver, gunmetal... probably loads of stuff... I'm hoping I can mix what I don't have there. You reckon what I've got should be enough and I can be creative with colours I don't have? Your models look beautiful by the way mate, good work. --- I went with the following, the list is 20 since I found a deal for 20 too: Chainmail Silver Brassy Brass Black Wash Sepia Wash Dead White Black Ghost Grey Dark Blue Electric Blue Bloody Red Gory Red Goblin Green Dark Green Moon Yellow Squid Pink Warlord Purple Orange Fire Pale Flesh Desert Yellow Leather Brown
  14. Hey guys I've found a good deal on Vallejo paints, I can get 18 of them for a great price. The question is, which 18? I currently don't have any paints as my citadel ones are all dried up. Is this a good choice of paints for a starter set. If you would edit the list in some way, please let me know! Chainmail Silver Burnished Gold Black Wash Sepia Wash White Black Imperial Blue Electric Blue Bloody Red Gory Red Goblin Green Dark Green Bald Moon Yellow Warlord Purple Orange Fire Elf Skintone Desert Yellow Brown
  15. Thank you both, I didn't know about these books Adran, I will get them. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information