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About Piccio

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  1. How to choose colours?

    Is sky far or near than the grain camp?
  2. How to choose colours?

    When painting I'll try to follow some rules: - the concept of zenithal light, every single volume has the max light in the higher zone, the maximum shadow in the bottom zone. The lights in the higher parts of the model generally should be the most enlightned zones, the lights in the bottom part of the model are really less enlighned. - the concept of focus point, the observer has to watch first what I want he have to watch. A different colour, an enlightned zone.... Break the zenithal rule if necessary! - the concept that in 28mm contrast should be more extreme than in real, models has to be less flat as possible. And small volumes/details results more visible. - experimenting colour and tecnique as much as possible - mixing colour try always to obtain the colour you should have already in your head. we're lucky to have some very good professional painters here, I'll hope they will post something too.
  3. How to choose colours?

    some other random tips about colours: distance: warm colours are near, cold are far. fealing: warm colours are joy, power, passion, cold are calm, relaxing, sad green can be warm but also cold. contrast: a primary colour (yellow) has the maximum contrast when placed near the opposite (purple). adding black or white to a colour you will "remove" colour form your current colour (desaturation) Kandinsky art is really fashinating about colour use, colours have quantity and form. Why he use more yellow than blue? And why yellow is a triangle and blue is a sphere?
  4. How to choose colours?

    ahah I'm really sorry, I don't have the model and I forgot the previous picture was the back! The front is fine, the doll is an attractive point located symmetrically to the red gem and this is good. Maybe If you want to force the primary focus on the monster you can work on eyes with a cold colour, maybe purple if you want to joke about secondary colours (orange-green-purple). for example: I like your model, but If you're still not satistyed and you think the green mass is still flat you can also try to work more on light and shadow adding some intense light (almost yellow-white): and very dark green on the most shadowed zones
  5. How to choose colours?

    Hi man, you have a good hand, nice transitions and clean on details, I'll try to explain your fealing about "something wrong" on your colours palette. 1st silurid one: Red crest is very attracting for my eyes, So I think you're a bit frustrate because you generally want the face is the most attracting detail. This is because hot colours are more attractive that cold (red is hottest than green), saturated color are more attractive that desaturated (red and green they're almost at the same level). You can compare that with the tongue, that is a less interesting detail than the crest simply because more desaturated. (more black or white you add on your basic mescula less is the colour saturation) Red is also a complementary of green, this mean you have the maximum contrast, this is good because your mini is a 2 colour scheme. At this point what you can do for shift focus from the crest to the face? I simply suggest to work on contrast on the face volumes, specifically adding more light and / or adding some textures / detailes. Maybe you can also add some red "scales/skin irregularity" dots on the head, so your eyes will be attracted at the same level than the crest. You can also add interesting detail on the skin in general (cuts , wrins, textures) with yellow, red, brown, so the eyes will move to the crest so watch something else. I wanna compare with my very last work (please keep focus on colours): I have the maximum contrast from skin and monkey wrench and form skin and pants (the main parts of the model). Anyway to keep attention on the body (and mainly the head) I tryed to keep the skin as the most saturated part (there's hot blood under the skin so this is usually sature atleast you're in the middle of a glacier) and I spent more time working on volumes to exasperate them. I chose neutral/desaturated/cold colours for Gloves, hat and vest details because i want no focus on them. Red or saturated yellow gloves will shift the focus on them (peripheral zones) moving away from the face, and this is generally wrong alteast you intentionally want that. While painting I realized it was hard for me to keep focus on the face because the model has non neck and a strange chin so the face was not so simple to enlight in a standard way, I tryed to make it more interesting adding detail (pimples are totally freehand), trying to work on contrast in skintone, trying to give focus on glasses (glasses helped me a lot) and keep a very neutral tone on the hat (I want focus on the face not on the hat!). I also make a dark zone on the monkey wrench at the sides of the face. 2nd silurid one: I like more, it's interesting because green dots (textures), yellow and green are near on the colour scheme, the most enlighned part is still the face, so the focus is in the right place. The only part I don't like much is the rock because too much innatural (no texture, any shadow). Nice work. 3rd: Joju. U worked a lot. It's really well painted. On the green volumes you spent time with light and shadow. The hands are really well done. But the focus is still only on the wrong part of the model (the red crystal). The model is simply not interesting. My eyes go on crystal first, on red foliage then, on the crockdile head at the end. This is wrong. Brown bone is too much neutral, too much anonimous. Do something on the head. Blood, add textures, exasperate the contrast. What i suggest In this case is a very very cold light coming out from the eyes hole. Azure or pink/purple. All your model is in warm colours palette, a cold single detail will take focus for sure!
  6. My Thunders

    last post edit for a better picture.
  7. My Thunders

    Sparks done! Will Willie be next?
  8. Wave 5 - GG 18 Tier List and Faction Standing

    my first impression on Strategies (GG 2018 read but not tested yet): -) ply for information: obey/companion is good for taking conditions on your model before your opponent can. Hard to wound / impossibile to wound/defensive is good to keep the condition up. Focus/fast can help taking down the condition from a model you're engaged and then put on yourself. I'm not sure overactivating is a big advantage on that strategy. I think yan-lo (models missplacing), mei feng (railwalk), shen long (fast), mc cabe (nimble + reactivate) can works. I'll give a change to Brewmaster + Finger because obey + swill + drinking contest and no interact area seems designed for this strategy. I think Asami is not a good option (tempo-summons are not so useful for this strategy). I'm not a fan of Lynch here. Yeah I think I'll start paint my brewmaster soon. -) Public execution: every solid beater is fine, kill and survive until the end of turn. I think shen long will be my first option here. -) Symbols of authority: also here I think interacts negation is necessary (sun quiang) but also interact in engagement is good (mc cabe new upgrade will be nice). -) Ours: I think is important to take out enemy and try to not die (banal). Maybe also the SS cost / resilience of every model should be evaluated. Medium cost? A couple of higher cost and many cheap? How many SS in upgrades? This time Mei/Asami summons will not help scoring (I think I never lost any interference point with Meifeng, emissary & toshiro)I'll like shenlong push + heal, but maybe I'll try Misaki (master value is 10 so quite is sacrificable, and she's really good to go where necessary and kill something in the while), or Lynch.
  9. Lynch Tactica: The House always wins!

    @Nikodemus You are right! Thank you man, I apologize. True, Tannen comboes well with cheating bastard and his durability is really increased by Terracotta's protection. @whodares thank you for the useful and exhaustive guide about Lynch. I'm offering to contribute start writing something similar about Shenlong or Mei while in winter holiday. I realized this game now is grown a lot in complexity compared from the time the first book was out. Updated guides (pullmyfinger is usefull for sure but not always mantained update) can be really be useful to help new players.
  10. Lynch Tactica: The House always wins!

    @whodaresI'm not a regular Jakob player so my experience is maybe limited, anyway I very often take emissary, graves, 1 beckoner, 1 samurai, 1 tt-brother with him. I also gave some chances to Lone Swordman and Illuminated but they everytimes underperformed in my hands. I think I will try sun quiang soon. Usually I use Emissary to move and push 2 models in the first turn (I prefer his Lynch upgrade just for the extra push, the general one is also pretty good expecially if you have a katanaka or a beckoner near him), then starting from second it depends from my hand and positioning, I usually move and CA under focus (or worst charge something) only if I'm sure I can eventually cheat for 6 the focused attack or if I've some high mask cards. Attacking for 2 or maybe 3 damage is not so great, if I need 1ap to move I prefer to push and fast Graves or Hungering istead CA. In any case just moving + push&fast hungering + push lynch is still a good option. You have spent (1)ap + (0)ap to give 2ap to the hungering and 1 to Lynch. Care because DEATH CONTRACT specify that it doesn't count as upgrade for frendly ability model (i.e. emissary tactical one)
  11. Lynch Tactica: The House always wins!

    Samurai is nice if you also play the S.Emissary, when fast he can shoot (atleast) 3 times with Considering for example I'm shooting at something out of cover, if I'm winning 2 attack duels on 3, no extra attacks, both damage flip with a single : it means 3x4 + 2x2 = 16 cards digged (about 1/3 of your deck, you should find atleast one ace), not bad for a single activation. With <cheating bastard> on Lynch the chance to make any extra attack will increase a bit, Emissary / graves helps on their Wk 4 .
  12. 2018 monthly painting challenge

    Count me as Henchman!
  13. Help: Support Shenlong

    Also Equality works fine on Burt
  14. Help: Support Shenlong

    You can also play Lynch without any synergy with deck dig and aces cycling (sub-obtimizing his mulligan and card advantage) or Mei Feng without any constructs (sub-obtimizing his railwalk) and still win. In any case the free focus / defensive aura is a really huge buff and it doesn't take any of your master AP. I really want to use everytime I can because the chance to cheat damage makes any duel a threat. Def is also great: having 3-4 model in defensive at the beginning of turn 2 make losing the initiative flip less important. I usually take models with good (0)ap that have to stay far from Shenlong because flanking (pathfinder, wandering river monks, tt brothers...). Tengu are nice removing enemy markers, anyway Shenlong can also replace marker away using mighty gust. I think I go for tt brother or wandering 90% of time because they can place up to 2 markers in their activation. Anyway: -models with high severe stat or blasts on damage profile are really good with him (due free focus) ....for example a fast emissary can go focus+2 at the beginning of activation, attacks, then go focus+1 due shenlong, attacks, attacks a 3th time (maybe others free attacks on any trigger). 6+6+2(or more)+X damage avoiding incorporeal, engagement and cover with a good control hand and no black joker on the many cards you will flips. -model with no important (0)ap benefit from him because they gain 1 ap for free. -models with htk or lot of armor are preferable (you normally have time to switch low river style and heal). -WK4 models benefit a lot from mighty gust.
  15. Help: Support Shenlong

    Man you're taking many models that already have a good (0)ap (yorogumo's 3rd attack, lone's reactivate, yamaziko's brace....) You totally waste Shen's free focus /free defensive as (0)ap near him. Shen can be a good hitter if necessary, but usually he buffs and supports your crew with wandering and low river style. He can push+fast+free focus atleast a couple of models each turn. This works pretty well with something like kang, izamu, lazarus (slow, tanky model with huge damage attacks). I normally take the emissary over Yu, so I usually save 4SS for hiring a low river monk most of times and I prefer "upgrades users" while building crew. I like Jebsen for a lot or reasons with Shen, not only because can be a 4ap beater with Ml6 and 3damage minimun.. Snipers and Wandering are ok for taking care about flank, in any case I do not hire both very often, my prefecence is strictly linked to scheme pool.