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About KrazyIvan

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    Governor General of MaliPhoenix

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  1. You have to prep the boards with some kind of acrylic compound as I describe up thread. Apply to one side, then weight it down and let it dry completely. Then flip it over and repeat on the other side. It won't warp after that.
  2. This is O scale english ivy by Silflor. It came from one of their sample size packs you can buy from Scenic Express. Mine looks a bit more overgrown than the picture on Scenic Express becauseI didn't pull it apart that much. It is basically a big hedge when you get it, so you can taylor the look.
  3. It's not as much painting as you might think. If you seal these up you could use aerosol paint to do most of the work (assuming that you don't have an airbrush). The bigger issue would be fixing them to a sturdier base board, like 3mm MDF.
  4. Beveling the bases would be my only suggestion. These look pretty good.
  5. I use 3mm (or 1/8") all my projects since it's so readily available. It has more warping issues than thicker stock, but that is easy to work around.
  6. He is out shined by other models in the same price range...and us Outcasts are spoiled for choices in the 7-10 SS range. That said, if the match is maker heavy and close deployment I can still justify taking him.
  7. My $0.02: Play NB, Arcanists, or Levi. The Vikas are not sneaky at all. They are a one trick pony. It's a good trick, but it will only be sneaky once. After that a prepared opponent will start to setup in such a way as to to minimize model loss from the slingshot, isolate whomever you sent in, and kill her. The Viks are great killers, but are made of paper.
  8. I am probably dropping out. I finally got the materials for my new city boards (see my Mk 2 build diary in the Terrain section), and they are taking up most of my hobby time.
  9. First, a video... CBMK-WIP22.mp4 That out of the way, pouring the mold didn't exactly go to plan. I actually had to do it twice as it turned out that I didn't have enough Oomoo 30 silicone on hand so I was only able to make a partial mold. Silicone will stick to silicone so I had the option of pouring the remainder of the mold after visiting my local Smooth-On distributor. I had a gut feeling that all wasn't well however, and my hunch was right. I de-molded the partial pour only to find bid voids up against the tile. Had I poured the remainder I still would have ended up with a bad mold. On the plus side the master came through fine, and that partial mold had sharp detail. I tossed the partial in the trash, hit the Smooth-On store, and poured a new mold. No problems this time around. After de-molding the master I was able to get a clean cast of the board in Smoothcast 300 resin. I should be able to pull somewhere between 30-60 casts from this mold. Here are the pics: Next step is to get the remaining boards built. Once that it done I will pour their molds all at once. Then it'll be boards for days (and just maybe sets of boards for other folks who want some of their very own).
  10. The build for the first board is complete. Tomorrow I'll prime and varnish it, then build a mold box and pour it's mold. If I've done an adequate job of sealing all nooks and crannies then all should go well...otherwise the master might be damaged. On to the pics: Here we have the cobblestones all laid out: A close up of the man hole cover that I scratch built (no button this time): And finally a few of the completed piece. I went ahead and primed one corner so that you can better see the texture of cobblestone and grout. The resin sand was applied pretty thick, but it shrinks quite a bit as it dries. The advantageous for this application because as it shrinks it helps fill in the gaps and undercuts.