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About solkan

  1. One thing I would add to that is little chips or something to mark activations. In middle of the game, you're going to forget which models have activated. I've had pretty good success so far using the Warlord Games pin markers (used for Gates of Antares, Bolt Action, etc.) for Poison and Burning (red plastic with yellow paint for burning, green paint for poison). They've got a dial for 1 to 20 that's reasonably visible if you dry brush the numbers. (Disclaimer: Played against a Hamelin player this week, I really wish they would have brought a pile of spin counters for Blight. ) Infinity has a few dozen different conditions and other markers, each with fancy full color designs. But the most practical Infinity token I've found so far is a fairly simple one: laminate a piece of cardstock, and take a 1" button press to the sheet, and then write on the plastic with a fine tip permanent marker. If you make your markers as you need them, and then sort them into one of those multi-section craft boxes, you get a good idea of how many token of which types you'll want to buy/make nicer versions for.
  2. Nonsense. The light plastic models are perfect for those situations where you can't decide which faction to bring, so you pack everything.
  3. Special box scenarios that use the models in the box but need more of models (the ones you can only get in that box) than you get in the box.
  4. I'm assuming that just means that a henchman doesn't have to hench all of the games. I mean, you're not required to demo the board games as a henchman, right?
  5. I think it also depends on your expectations. Looking at some of the scenarios in the figure boxes, there are some scenarios you can play through that are mostly action oriented without many hidden secrets or mysteries. So you could get an experience at about a "single player game of Zombicide" level reasonably well.
  6. I swear they would have been better off making up three or four symbols instead of the four "magic phrases" for trigger timing. Probably be just as many questions about timing, but there'd be less guessing about "Are there synonyms?" The 'After resolving' trigger is still an after-step-five trigger, it just differs from the others in that it doesn't matter how the duel turns out or whether any damage is inflicted.
  7. It's not mandatory to discard cards if you'd rather not. The condition says "must" because the alternatives would be nonsensical. After all, imagine if it said "can discard a card or gain Burning +1".
  8. Given the way game's mechanics are set up (line of sight is to the base of the model not the ornate metal or plastic figure; facing doesn't matter) you can play a game of Malifaux just using blank bases of the proper size with nametags or cardboard standies on top, as long as you have the cards. And if you had the books, or knew someone with the books, you can just photocopy the cards out of the book; or print out those pages of the books if you've picked up the PDFs. If it comes down to it, print out a bunch of 30mm, 40mm, and 50mm circles. As far as the rulebooks are concerned, the only rulebook you need is the Rules Manual. And you can get a free PDF version of that here: http://www.drivethrurpg.com/product/133323/Malifaux--RULES-ONLY-Handbook--2E?filters=700_0_0_0_0 The other four books: Malifaux M2E - Rules, the first "wave" of models and upgrades for the 2nd edition rules, some stories. Crossroads - The second "wave" of models and upgrades, some stories. Shifting Fates - The rules for a campaign system, the third "wave" of models and upgrades. Twisting Fates - The fourth "wave" of models and upgrades. If you have a metal model, its card is in either the Malifaux M2E or Crossroads book. Unless you have an Avatar model, and that's in Shifting Fates. The main use of those four books is as a card reference for the models that you don't own. I have all of the books mainly because I bought them one at a time as they came out so I didn't have to deal with the sticker shock of all four at once. (The PDFs are $28 each from DriveThruRPG, the print versions are about $45 each.) As card references, you'd only really need one copy of the books for a group of people. That's a perfectly legitimate way to try out the game and figure out which models you want to get before buying the figures. As far as choosing a faction and choosing masters, Pull My Finger has a starting overview of the factions and original masters: https://pullmyfinger.wikispaces.com/Choosing+a+Master
  9. From Pulse: So the pulse radiates out from the target, and the order of the duels would be: Duel against the primary target and the TN to cast the spell. If this duel fails, stop because nothing else is going to happen. If the duel in Step 1 succeeded, now perform TN10 duels against all of the other valid targets within 1 yard of the primary target. If the secondary target character fails its duel, it is affected by the spell, but any damage suffered will automatically just be the Weak damage flip result. If a player character casts Mind Control with Pulse at NPC A, and NPC B is standing in the pulse range, then the following duels are performed: Opposed duel by the player character with TN 14(base 10 +4 for Pulse+whatever other TN modifiers for range extension, etc) and the NPC A's Wp+[station value]. Cards are flipped, since it's player vs. NPC. If the player wins the first duel, then NPC B performs a Wp duel vs. TN 10. No card is flipped, the duel resolves according to the NPC vs. the world duel rules. Pulse and Blast would do two different things to the Drain Life spell. If you use Pulse on Drain life, the secondary targets have their TN10 duels to avoid the Weak damage result. If you use Blast on Drain Life, there's no duel to avoid the damage. That's how it works according to the original rules, as far as I can tell.
  10. Is this the point where someone needs to point out that reflipping the card isn't "cheating" the flip? There are one or two models that actually can chest initiative flips, and they are subject to the usual joker rulers on the initiative flip. Edit:. For the record, the Doppleganger's Ill Omens ability: So there's a difference.
  11. No such thing. There reasonable limits, like you're unlike to need more than a dozen of anything... Except maybe mindless zombies in a few rare cases. Remember for a moment that scheme select is a secret, but both players know what the available schemes are. If you don't take any scheme runners, it's obvious which schemes you took (assuming you don't summon scheme runners, but still...) If you do take scheme runners, or you can summon scheme runners, it's still a mystery.
  12. The whole model moves the same distance, so as long as you're measuring from the same point to the same point it's all the same. Just like the whole model is being moved. So when someone say "measure from the front of the model" or "measure from the back of the model", it's a matter of convenience or minimizing errors. That doesn't change the fact that the whole base is getting moved.
  13. Some of the online stores still have a few of the old metal totems in stock. For example, the Vulture's showing as in stock at Noble Knight Games: http://www.nobleknight.com/ProductDetail.asp_Q_ProductID_E_2147420099_A_InventoryID_E_2147679268_A_ProductLineID_E_2137423530_A_ManufacturerID_E_2145084677_A_CategoryID_E_5_A_GenreID_E_ But they don't have any Poltergeists left. The terrible thing is that stuff like the totems are probably the figures that game stores end up sitting on unsold. Like last I checked, there was a store in North Dakota with three of old metal brass arachnids and a dozen or so of the old metal scenic base inserts. So you might want to make a list of the totems you're looking for and post in the trades. http://themostexcellentandawesomeforumever-wyrd.com/forum/98-trading-forum/ I think there are a few people who check there and check their local stores for leftover models.
  14. I think the easy thing to overlook is that both players actually have an equal interest in counting both of the discard piles. The rules do, after all, make the point that the cards being discarded by the other player are open knowledge as they are being discarded. By the rules, you're only allowed to look at the top card of the discard pile, but you're allowed to know what's being discarded as it is being discarded. But I think that's important to keep in mind. If you're going to let a player examine their discard pile, you have to let the other player examine that discard pile as well. Not just let a player examine their own discard pile. I mean, if I'm playing against a Dreamer player, I want to know what the high masks in their discard pile are as much as they do. So if could rig up something where both players tallied their cards as the cards are discarded, and they can both see the tallies, that seems like it would be the fairest and most expedient thing to do. And it avoids stalling situations where one player's gone through three quarters of their deck and now both players want to dig through that deck to see what's left.
  15. I'm pretty sure there aren't any abilities which manipulate the discard pile. There are a few which manipulate the deck (taking cards from the hand and placing them at the top or bottom of the deck, or rearranging the top cards of the deck), though. So there shouldn't be any problem knowing the order or contents of the discard pile, unlike the obvious problem that looking through the deck would cause.