Welcome to Wyrd Forums

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more!

This message will be removed once you have signed in.

MrDeathTrout

Members
  • Content count

    773
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by MrDeathTrout

  1. I've seen this before. I know Shen Long can give burning, then the Obsidian Oni get the to damage on their Ca action, but is there something else I'm missing?
  2. I would say the intent is that "the last model" is interpreted as "the model no other model activates after". In this example that would be Tara, I see no reason she cannot be first to activate and last to activate. You could interpret "last" like this: Imaging three Ice Gamin standing in Candy's Sour's aura. IG1 activates, and at this point it is the last model to activate this turn so takes 3 damage. Neverborn player activates a model. IG2 activates, and at this point it is the last model to activate this turn so takes 3 damage. Neverborn player activates a model. IG3 activates, and at this point it is the last model to activate this turn so takes 3 damage. All three Ice Gamin were last to activate at some point. This is obviously not what was meant, and I'd say its not far from any interpretation where Tara is not the last to activate.
  3. I would say that since it is "basically a null ability" if you cannot take a (0) multiple times, that at least suggests the intent is you can.
  4. We made a house rule that if you pay for a 0 cost henchman (like Huggy or Blood) then you can buy their associated master at a discount equal to the cost you paid for the henchman. For example If you start with Huggy as your leader you pay 8SS (IRCC). If you later hire Lynch as your leader you pay 7SS to hire him. That is Lynch's cost (15SS) minus what you paid for Huggy (8SS).
  5. I think this falls under Breaking the Rules (pg 28 of the big book): If this was not the case, wouldn't Sensei Yu's Disciple be useless? It is a (0) that says to take a (0).
  6. Its good, but the Obsidian Statue (OS) isn't adding much to it. Unless I'm missing the point, you're getting +4 damage assuming the Soul Porter and Lust hit with all four attacks. Nice, but I'm sure I can get +4 damage for ~9SS without too much trouble. I think this is a great illustration of the issue most people have with the OS. You've come up with a specific scenario where the Dark Energies is good, but still not fantastic. Has anyone come up with a scenario where the OS does something fantastic? It seems like the OS is a grab bag of traits, that a variety of crews will get some benefit from this model, but not a lot of benefit. At least not enough that another ~9SS model won't be seen as more useful. I completely agree with Tokapandora that most of the time Dark Energies (which may be his signature trait) is too difficult to use for too little benefit to be worth a 9SS model. Since the OS is a construct it has to be balanced with all other constructs in the game due to Levi. My suspicion is that is why the Ca buff has to be so weak, not because of what it can do for the TT, but what it can do in a Levi crew. I'd like to see Dark Energies giving to friendly casting actions taken in a slightly larger aura or something similar, but while this is very fitting for TT it is probably to good for a Levi crew.
  7. I was going through all the Errata cards on the Wyrd site and notices a few things: There is no updated Hopkins card or Diestro card. The Conflux of Thunder and Conflux of Combat do not have the Errata X:X:X tatoo.
  8. Maybe slightly off topic, but it would be GREAT if errata'd cards listed the date of the errata they represent. E.g all of the cards updated in the Jan 2107 release could have a "Jan 2017 version" or "Errata Jan '17" on them somewhere. Thanks!
  9. Ascension Narrative Campaign PFC Games: (425) 670-0550, 7528 Olympic View Drive, Edmonds, WA 98026 This event is based on the campaign rules in the Shifting Loyalties rulebook, with a bit of house rules. Schedule Weeks will run Wednesday thru Tuesday Week 1: May 31-Jun 6 Week 4: Jun 21-Jun 27 Week 2: Jun 7-Jun 13 Week 5: Jun 28-July 4 Week 3: Jun 14-Jun 20 End Cap: July 5 at 6pm Campaign Rules: · Wednesday evenings at PFC games will be campaign night and our weekly event. You can play campaign games anytime and anywhere. · Starting crews must be led by a Master which costs 0 script. You have 20 additional script to recruit your starting crew. · This will be curated, narrative campaign. At the start of each week, a scenario including the Weekly Event, Strategy, Schemes, fluff and a “bonus loot” for the week’s games. All of the scenarios are part of a planned story line. · The Strategies, Schemes and Weekly events will be predetermined and revealed at the start of each week. · The 5 scrip discount for the first model recruited each week is increased to 6 scrip if the model is fully based and painted. This is cumulative with the Wasteland Outpost Extra Guards fortification, for a potential 7 scrip discount each week. · You cannot play more than 2 campaign games a week. You cannot play the same opponent more than once in a game week. · Optional Rules: We will be using the Hideouts and The Good Doctor optional rules from Shifting Loyalties. End Cap: The last day of the campaign will feature a brawl starting at 6pm. The winner of the brawl wins the campaign. There will be one strategy: Ascension (see below), and no schemes. Ascension- Special Strategy There something emanating from that rock, something good, I wants it! Manifestation is a multiplayer strategy. Crew: Each player chooses one Minion or Enforcer in their Arsenal and attaches up to one Upgrade which it can legally attach. Set up: Set up a typical 3’ by 3’ Malifaux board. Place a Font Marker at the Center of the table. Deployment: Each player flips a single card and deploys their crew in descending order (King before Queen, 6 before 5, etc.). In the case of a tie Activate in this order Rams, then Tomes, then Crows, then Masks. Models are deployed within 9" of any board edge not within 9” of another model. Initiative: Players Activate in descending order, break ties as initiative above. Hand Size: Maximum hand size for this scenario is 3. Victory Points At the end of each turn after the first, a Crew earns 2 VP if it has at least one model touching the Font Marker. If no models are touching the font Marker the crew with closest model (or models in the case of a tie) to the Font Marker gains 1 VP. Crews can earn more than 5 VP from this Strategy. Prizes: Little to nothing. This campaign is for funzies.
  10. I disagree. We've always interpreted impassible as a model cannot overlap the marker when looking down on the map from above. What you are describing sounds like Enclosed to me.
  11. I'd love to see the date the errata was published somewhere on errata'd stat cards. It can be very time consuming to figure out which card is the most recent. It would also make it much easier to spot check know updated cards before a tourney.
  12. A couple of players had a question last night. I didn't see the exact situation so I can't quote the exact ability/action involved. Here is the question. When a pulse is activated (by what means are irrelevant I think) that does not trigger simple dual who decides what order the pulse's effects are resolved in if they affect multiple models? For example Slappy Jack does a pulse that does 2 damage to all models within 3. Two friendly models (Gamin A and Gamin B ) and two enemy models (Oni A and Oni B ) are hit by the pulse. Who decieds what order the models suffer damage in? I found two rules that are close, and neither directly addresses this as far as I can tell. General timing only seems to apply to what order abilities and triggers are resolved in, not the order affects within those abilities and triggers are resolved. This deals with multiple models suffering an affect with out suffering as simple duel. This deals with pulses, but only covers Simple Duels. This is the closest to the given situation and the order I'm leaning towards.
  13. How are you guys using Yasunori? I usually keep him near Asami for the 1 AP charge pop recalled training and kill something. After that I have trouble getting much work out of him. I'm considering going back to Ama No Zako, lower Ml, but with her damage spread, durability and with more options (obey-like and hazardous terrain) I usually feel like I get a lot ore out of her.
  14. Hello everyone, I was wandering what Ten Thunders crews and/or models you like in Hardcore Henchman?
  15. This list has been doing really well for me. Kang (Leader, Cache 4SS) + Recalled Training +The Peaceful Waters Izamu the Armor (10SS) + Recalled Training Monk of the Low River (4SS) Monk of the Low River (4SS) I've won 4/5 matches and the one I lost Izuma took Red Joker damage turn 1 and turn 2. The two monks in the back constantly healing durable models like Kang and Izuma have been great. I think Kang soaked 20+ damage one game and was still in pretty good shape. I'm going to give a Terracotta Warrior to use Mold of the Other on Izuma. He'd died twice on me and both times to Red Joker damage.
  16. Yasunori!
  17. I've decided to start posting pics of my minis. Its not that I'm a great painter, but I'm hoping it will inspire me to paint better. Once I'm done with a model if look at it and don't want to post any pics then I'd better keep working. Since I've started posting Pics I've got a few questions about how I paint, so I'm adding some instructions to some of the pics. Since this is the first post in this thread I'm also adding some general tips I can refer back to from some other photos instead of posting the same instructions for X over and over. This page is a work in progress. If I get more questions I'll probably collect more and more techniques on this post to keep them more or less centralized. First up the guild hounds. Can anyone guess the theme? Someone asked me how these where painted so here are my best guesses. I'm not sure I will get all of the colors 100% correct, its been a while since I painted these guys. The Pale Dog (four feet on the ground) was base coated with Vallejo Game Color Bone White (BW) and washed several times with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE). The wash was thinned with water and applied several times in very thin coats. A little bit of GW Nuln Oil (NO) was added for some of the darker recesses where there were creases (like around the eyes). After washing I highlighted back up with BW and BW mixed with a little bit of white. The White Dog (leaping over a bush) used the same process as the Pale Dog, just sub in Vallejo Game Color Wolf Gray for the base coat and GW Nuln Oil for the washes. The Red Dog, sorry, but none of the colors I have match the base coat here. My best guess is mixed a custom color starting with a light to medium brown and mixing in a bit of orange. A dull rather than bright orange would be best, but I don't remember for sure. Then I washed with - you guessed it - GW Agrax Earthshade (AE) and highlighted up the base coat again. Do do some final highlights I'm guessing I would have mixed in some of the original light brown or some Vallejo Game Color Bone White (BW) into the original orange mix. The "white" parts (the muzzle is visible here, but the belly and insides of the legs are also "white") use the same colors and technique as the Pale Dog. The Black Dog uses the same base, wash highlight as the pale dog buy with Vallejo Game Color Heavy Charcoal as the base and GW Nuln Oil (NO) as the wash. The Red parts used the same colors and techniques as the Red Dog. I'm pretty sure I used more or less layers of wash to give it a more brown than red look.The Brown bits see Brown Bits in General Tips Below. The Silver bits see Silver in General Tips Below. The Leather bits see Brown Bits in General Tips Below. I'm pretty sure the base coat here was Vallejo Model Color English Uniform. Mounting these guys to the base was a challenge. They have such small contact points and super thin legs I was very concerned with how to attach them to the base that would be both sturdy and look good. The black dog was also just super glued, because he was first and was kind of the catalyst that made me reconsider how to attach the rest. The pale dog with all four feet on the ground was just super glued since four points of contact should be good. The white jumping dog is pinned to the "shrub" he's jumping over. The base of the shrub (made from several roots glued together) goes through a hole drilled into the base. The red dog is on small foot. The cobble stones on my bases are sculpted from putty, so I cut out the stone the dogs leg is on and replaced it with a piece of plasticard carved to match the stones on the base. Then the dogs foot was glued to the plastic stone using plastic glue which makes a much stronger bond than super glue. The Theme (I don't think anyone has even hazarded a guess at this point) is the four dogs of the apocalypse. The colors vary depending on your source, but the colors of the horses ridden by the four horsemen are red, black, pale and white. General Tips Back and Forth - I'll often say I painted that color using base coat A, wash B and highlight C, then highlight D, etc... While that is generally true it is often a bit more complicated. Highlighting may come out a bit brighter than I wanted to I give it another thin layer of wash, then the ears are too dark so I highlight them again, then... The point is I do follow the general steps of base, wash, highlight back up but often I will repete a lot of the steps over again on a much smaller scale over and over going back and forth until I get the effect I'm looking for. Washes - I use a lot of washes when I paint. Washes give a color depth removing the flat look of a pure color. I apply them in VERY thin coats, often deluded with water at a 1:1 ratio, and I make sure there are no pools. When I wash a model it is usually 4-6 coats of same very thin wash applied several times. I'll usually go back and paint in some wash where I want it the darkest. For these follow-up targeted washes I'll sometimes add in a bit if a darker wash as well. If you are applying a lot of thin layers of wash make sure they fully dry between layers and once you get up to 4-5 layers makes sure the wash has time to dry thoroughly before doing more layers. Once layers of wash start to build up you can easily wipe off the whole "stack" with your brush leaving a perfectly clean stripe. Sometimes I'll give it coat of sealant and let dry over night before continuing. My default color for a wash is GW Agrax Earthshade. Its a medium/dark brown that gives a "realistic" look to most colors when applies sparingly. If I'm not going for a super clean look I'll probably use Agrax for the wash. If I want it a bit darker I'll mix in a bit of GW Nuln Oil. I use almost exlusivly GW washes. For the easy of use and effect I've never found any brand that matches up to GW. If anyone can point to other good washes I'd love to hear about them. Targeted washes, when I use this term I mean just putting the wash where I want it, like painting a bit of wash just in a seam line between a pair of lips, to darken that line. Like all my washes these are very thin and will probably take several coats. I never do a targeted wash anywhere that hasn't already been washed with the same wash or a very similar wash. If you don't aready have this foundation you'll get a line at the edge of where the wash stops. By a very similar wash I mean the same colors in a different ratio or maybe a little bit of a new color added in, usually GW Nuln Oil to darken the wash since I'm usually putting this in area I want darker. Metalics in General - When I apply metallic paints I drybrush them on keeping my brush strokes in the same direction as mush as possible. I've found this gives a more natural metallic look. I have a hypothesis as to why; most metallic model paint is ground aluminium in a medium with pigment to give it color (none for bright silver, yellowish for gold, red-brown for copper, etc.). If you put this paint on wet like you would any other paint or if your brush strokes go in all different directions the aluminum particles are in a jumble. If you "drybrush" it on with brush strokes in the same direction the particles lie flat and are aligned giving you a nicer looking metallic. I also often use Air brush paints for matallics since the particles are finer they give a smoother less sparkly look. I also do not use an airbrush to apply metallics, they always look sparkly to me. I don't know if this is my lack of skill, the jumbled particles I talk about above or both. Dull Coat gives a nice matte finish, which I like, but it dulls down the shine on the metallics. So after the final Dull Coating I do one final highlight get the shine back. Silver - I do most silver about the same. Base coat with Vallejo Game Color Heavy Charcoal then cover with Vallejo Model Color Gunmetal Gray (GG). I highlight with Vallejo Model Air Gun (Gun) and then with Vallejo Model Air Aluminum (Aluminum). Then I wash with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE) and GW Nuln Oil (NO). If I want a dirtier look I use more AE in the ratio, for a darker look I use more layers of wash. Then I'll highlight with Gun and very sparingly with Aluminum, just a few bright spots and edges; too much and the effect is lost. See Metalics In General above as well. Brown Bits - For leather or brown cloth I start with a medium to light brown like Vallejo Model Color English Uniform or Vallejo Game Color Heavy Brown and wash it repeatedly with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE) with a bit of GW Nuln Oil (NO) mixed in. This is a lot of very thin washes, done over period of days. I just keep going untill I have the tone I want. When you are putting on this may layers you need to let the dry well or pretty soon they start dissolving again ant id make a huge mess (see washes in the General Tips Below). Sometimes I'll clear coat them and let them sit over night before continuing the wash process. Some times I'll do a little bit of highlighting with the base color and some edge highlighting with an even lighter brown. I find this technique gives a lot of depth to the brown and you can base coat several areas with the same brown and by varying the number and AE to NO ratio on different parts of the model end up with different colors of brown. Toothy Maw - I paint most of open mouths full of teeth about the same. Base coat with a dark reddish brown like Vallejo Panzer Aces Shadow Flesh or Vallejo Game Color Terracotta and give it a wash with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE). Then a heavy highlight with the base color and then some light highlights with a "pure" red. Next I start on the teeth I'base coat them with dull yellow-tan like Vallejo Model Color Yellow Ochre (YO), then cover 80% of the YO with an ivory like Vallejo Game Color Bonewhite (Bw), leaving the base of the teeth yellowish fading into the Bw. I might use a little pure white on the tips of the teeth. I'll usually do a very light targeted wash at the base of the teeth with AE with a little GW Nuln Oil (NO) mixed in to give a nice sharp division between the teeth and the gums. Priming - Heated primer works great. I heat up some water to near boiling in a bowl, I shake up my primer and put it in the bowl and let it sit for about 5 minutes before using it. The primer comes out of the can like its propelled by a jet engine, even when you are down to the dregs it still comes out easy. The primer seems better mixed, gives a more even coat and of a better consistency then when I don't heat it up. Clear Coating - There isn't much to say about clear coating other than I like Testors Dull Coat, and I will often coat a model several times during the painting process. I'll get to point I like and I'll seal it to protect what I've already done. I'll usually dull coat after I've done a lot of thin layers of wash or after I've done some airbrushing and I'm going to start doing some brush work, since both of these apply thin layers of paint that are easier to rub off with a brush than a typical brushed on layer of paint.
  18. Betarri gives + to Ml only, so only gives Ama the suit she needs for her Quaff Blood trigger on Vicious Embrace. The rest of her actions/triggers either don't need a or are not Ml actions.
  19. Great pod cast! One thing, Yokai can use Soul Burn twice on the turn they are summoned. It says do the damage, then lower Flicker by 1.
  20. Terracotta Warriors Pretty basic paint job, and probably the wrong color for terracotta, but I wanted them to match the pavers I use on all my bases. I considered making parts metalic, or have paint pealing off them, but in the end its nice to have a very simple paint job once in a while. Akaname There is more varaiation in the colors than these photos show, not as much as I'd like on the two brownish ones. The green one is my fav.
  21. I only played against the 'pault once or twice and I don't know if I'd say it was a good tactic, but I charged it with Misaki. I knew she wouldn't kill it with all that armor, but its so easy to hit with her Ml 7 Thunder attack I had no problem getting blasts to kill all the "ammo" he had nearby.
  22. The color scheme isn't very original, but I really like how Sidir turned out. One of my faves.
  23. Shadow Effigy is a definite contender. It does work on Leader (vs Master). He'd also be great for finishing off HtK models with his ML7 dmg 1 attack. I'm sure I'll try him out sooner or later. His ability would probably work well with Ototo where you want to do hurt him, just not too bad.
  24. Tried out this list last night. Kang (Leader, Cache 4SS) + Recalled Training +The Peaceful Waters Izamu the Armor (10SS) + Recalled Training Monk of the Low River (4SS) Monk of the Low River (4SS) It did very well vs. McTavish, 2x Bayou Gators and The Mech. Porkchop. I don't recall the upgrades he had. My list did VERY well. He bailed at the end of round 3, it was 6-2. He only had the porkchop left engaged with Kang and Izamu. I hadn't lost a model and thanks to the monks no one had more than a couple points of damage on them. He's not very experienced with these models so, and he made several misplays. I'm sure next time it won't be so lop sided. I'd like to replace one of the monks, but haven't found anything I'm convinced would give me more for 4SS. I'm thinking of a Terracotta Warrior for mold of the other, but I'd have to get rid of a Recalled training as well. I'm also considering swapping Kang for Ototo.
  25. Malifauxbia 4: Hardcore Henchmen Tournament 11:30 Saturday, May 13 2017 Mugu Games: (425) 322-4826, 5233 Evergreen Way, Everett, WA 98203 This event will follow the Gaining Grounds 2017/Hardcore Henchman alternate format. Any exceptions will be noted below. GG2017 and Hardcore Henchman full rules are available on the Wyrd website Resources section under Organized Play Formats. Registration $15 ($10 will go to prize support, $5 will to go to purchase terrain for future events) 16 participant maximum Schedule: Registration at 11 am. Round 1 begins at 11:30. Rounds are 45 minutes with ~15 minutes between rounds. 1-7 players will be 3 rounds, 8-16 players will be 4 rounds. Proxy, Conversion, and Painting Rules: · Proxy models are not allowed for generally released models. Proxies for unreleased models must be appropriate representations of the model they stand for. Wyrd models may only be used to represent what they are, unless they are converted. Please check in advance with the organizer for suitability. · Conversions are an excellent way to show off your modeling skills. If using a model that was converted with pre-made bits, only 30% of the model may be built from other game companies’ models, while the rest must be self-sculpted or Wyrd bits. · Models must be assembled (glued) and fixed to the appropriate size base. Crew Construction: · All Crews must be led by a Henchman, not a Master. · The game size is 20 Soulstones. · All Crews must contain exactly 4 models; no more, no less. · Upgrades may be purchased, as allowed by the standard rules of Malifaux. · The size of a Crew’s Soulstone Pool is limited by the Cache of the Henchman leading it; any Soulstones above this amount are discarded. · Any Actions, Abilities, or Triggers which summon models are considered to be “blank” (they may not be used and have no effect on the game, as if they were not printed on the model). · The same Crew must be used in each round of the event. Setup All rounds use the following set up: · Deployment: Close. · Strategy: Hardcore Turf War. Turf War rules (Core Rulebook pg. 66) with the exception that VP may be scored on the first Turn. · Scheme Pool: Assassinate (Core Rulebook pg. 68). This is the only Scheme available and it must always be taken. Prizes: Prizes will be based on attendance; $ will be given in Store Credit; number of Mystery boxes will depend on participation. Maximum of one prize per participant. · 1st Place: 1/3 pool in credit (max $100.00), Winner Guilder (replaces Participant Guilder), First choice of Mystery boxes (4+ participants) · 2nd Place: 1/6 pool in credit (max $50.00), Participant Guilder, Second choice of Mystery boxes (6+ participants) · 3rd Place: 1/6 pool in credit (max $50.00), Participant Guilder · Participant: Participant Guilder for all Participants to pre-register o Raffle Prize: 1/3 (max $50.00), with 12+ participants third choice of Mystery boxes o One ticket for Participating One ticket if every model used in the event is fully painted (including base).