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Everything posted by MrDeathTrout

  1. I love them with McCabe. A Reactivated Nimble Jorogumo is fearsome! Unless there are a lot of Corpse & Scrap markers out I'm not a huge fan of them with Asami. Too many of their points are invested in being durable (Eat your Fill, HtK, HtW) to be worth summoning them for a single round. I usually get more millage out of a Yokai for a low corpse/scrap summon.
  2. Thanks guys. I was thinking Monks of the low river would be great. Conditions can be brutal with such a small model count.
  3. Hello everyone, I was wandering what Ten Thunders crews and/or models you like in Hardcore Henchman?
  4. Thank you.
  5. I've decided to start posting pics of my minis. Its not that I'm a great painter, but I'm hoping it will inspire me to paint better. Once I'm done with a model if look at it and don't want to post any pics then I'd better keep working. Since I've started posting Pics I've got a few questions about how I paint, so I'm adding some instructions to some of the pics. Since this is the first post in this thread I'm also adding some general tips I can refer back to from some other photos instead of posting the same instructions for X over and over. This page is a work in progress. If I get more questions I'll probably collect more and more techniques on this post to keep them more or less centralized. First up the guild hounds. Can anyone guess the theme? Someone asked me how these where painted so here are my best guesses. I'm not sure I will get all of the colors 100% correct, its been a while since I painted these guys. The Pale Dog (four feet on the ground) was base coated with Vallejo Game Color Bone White (BW) and washed several times with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE). The wash was thinned with water and applied several times in very thin coats. A little bit of GW Nuln Oil (NO) was added for some of the darker recesses where there were creases (like around the eyes). After washing I highlighted back up with BW and BW mixed with a little bit of white. The White Dog (leaping over a bush) used the same process as the Pale Dog, just sub in Vallejo Game Color Wolf Gray for the base coat and GW Nuln Oil for the washes. The Red Dog, sorry, but none of the colors I have match the base coat here. My best guess is mixed a custom color starting with a light to medium brown and mixing in a bit of orange. A dull rather than bright orange would be best, but I don't remember for sure. Then I washed with - you guessed it - GW Agrax Earthshade (AE) and highlighted up the base coat again. Do do some final highlights I'm guessing I would have mixed in some of the original light brown or some Vallejo Game Color Bone White (BW) into the original orange mix. The "white" parts (the muzzle is visible here, but the belly and insides of the legs are also "white") use the same colors and technique as the Pale Dog. The Black Dog uses the same base, wash highlight as the pale dog buy with Vallejo Game Color Heavy Charcoal as the base and GW Nuln Oil (NO) as the wash. The Red parts used the same colors and techniques as the Red Dog. I'm pretty sure I used more or less layers of wash to give it a more brown than red look.The Brown bits see Brown Bits in General Tips Below. The Silver bits see Silver in General Tips Below. The Leather bits see Brown Bits in General Tips Below. I'm pretty sure the base coat here was Vallejo Model Color English Uniform. Mounting these guys to the base was a challenge. They have such small contact points and super thin legs I was very concerned with how to attach them to the base that would be both sturdy and look good. The black dog was also just super glued, because he was first and was kind of the catalyst that made me reconsider how to attach the rest. The pale dog with all four feet on the ground was just super glued since four points of contact should be good. The white jumping dog is pinned to the "shrub" he's jumping over. The base of the shrub (made from several roots glued together) goes through a hole drilled into the base. The red dog is on small foot. The cobble stones on my bases are sculpted from putty, so I cut out the stone the dogs leg is on and replaced it with a piece of plasticard carved to match the stones on the base. Then the dogs foot was glued to the plastic stone using plastic glue which makes a much stronger bond than super glue. The Theme (I don't think anyone has even hazarded a guess at this point) is the four dogs of the apocalypse. The colors vary depending on your source, but the colors of the horses ridden by the four horsemen are red, black, pale and white. General Tips Back and Forth - I'll often say I painted that color using base coat A, wash B and highlight C, then highlight D, etc... While that is generally true it is often a bit more complicated. Highlighting may come out a bit brighter than I wanted to I give it another thin layer of wash, then the ears are too dark so I highlight them again, then... The point is I do follow the general steps of base, wash, highlight back up but often I will repete a lot of the steps over again on a much smaller scale over and over going back and forth until I get the effect I'm looking for. Washes - I use a lot of washes when I paint. Washes give a color depth removing the flat look of a pure color. I apply them in VERY thin coats, often deluded with water at a 1:1 ratio, and I make sure there are no pools. When I wash a model it is usually 4-6 coats of same very thin wash applied several times. I'll usually go back and paint in some wash where I want it the darkest. For these follow-up targeted washes I'll sometimes add in a bit if a darker wash as well. If you are applying a lot of thin layers of wash make sure they fully dry between layers and once you get up to 4-5 layers makes sure the wash has time to dry thoroughly before doing more layers. Once layers of wash start to build up you can easily wipe off the whole "stack" with your brush leaving a perfectly clean stripe. Sometimes I'll give it coat of sealant and let dry over night before continuing. My default color for a wash is GW Agrax Earthshade. Its a medium/dark brown that gives a "realistic" look to most colors when applies sparingly. If I'm not going for a super clean look I'll probably use Agrax for the wash. If I want it a bit darker I'll mix in a bit of GW Nuln Oil. I use almost exlusivly GW washes. For the easy of use and effect I've never found any brand that matches up to GW. If anyone can point to other good washes I'd love to hear about them. Targeted washes, when I use this term I mean just putting the wash where I want it, like painting a bit of wash just in a seam line between a pair of lips, to darken that line. Like all my washes these are very thin and will probably take several coats. I never do a targeted wash anywhere that hasn't already been washed with the same wash or a very similar wash. If you don't aready have this foundation you'll get a line at the edge of where the wash stops. By a very similar wash I mean the same colors in a different ratio or maybe a little bit of a new color added in, usually GW Nuln Oil to darken the wash since I'm usually putting this in area I want darker. Metalics in General - When I apply metallic paints I drybrush them on keeping my brush strokes in the same direction as mush as possible. I've found this gives a more natural metallic look. I have a hypothesis as to why; most metallic model paint is ground aluminium in a medium with pigment to give it color (none for bright silver, yellowish for gold, red-brown for copper, etc.). If you put this paint on wet like you would any other paint or if your brush strokes go in all different directions the aluminum particles are in a jumble. If you "drybrush" it on with brush strokes in the same direction the particles lie flat and are aligned giving you a nicer looking metallic. I also often use Air brush paints for matallics since the particles are finer they give a smoother less sparkly look. I also do not use an airbrush to apply metallics, they always look sparkly to me. I don't know if this is my lack of skill, the jumbled particles I talk about above or both. Dull Coat gives a nice matte finish, which I like, but it dulls down the shine on the metallics. So after the final Dull Coating I do one final highlight get the shine back. Silver - I do most silver about the same. Base coat with Vallejo Game Color Heavy Charcoal then cover with Vallejo Model Color Gunmetal Gray (GG). I highlight with Vallejo Model Air Gun (Gun) and then with Vallejo Model Air Aluminum (Aluminum). Then I wash with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE) and GW Nuln Oil (NO). If I want a dirtier look I use more AE in the ratio, for a darker look I use more layers of wash. Then I'll highlight with Gun and very sparingly with Aluminum, just a few bright spots and edges; too much and the effect is lost. See Metalics In General above as well. Brown Bits - For leather or brown cloth I start with a medium to light brown like Vallejo Model Color English Uniform or Vallejo Game Color Heavy Brown and wash it repeatedly with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE) with a bit of GW Nuln Oil (NO) mixed in. This is a lot of very thin washes, done over period of days. I just keep going untill I have the tone I want. When you are putting on this may layers you need to let the dry well or pretty soon they start dissolving again ant id make a huge mess (see washes in the General Tips Below). Sometimes I'll clear coat them and let them sit over night before continuing the wash process. Some times I'll do a little bit of highlighting with the base color and some edge highlighting with an even lighter brown. I find this technique gives a lot of depth to the brown and you can base coat several areas with the same brown and by varying the number and AE to NO ratio on different parts of the model end up with different colors of brown. Toothy Maw - I paint most of open mouths full of teeth about the same. Base coat with a dark reddish brown like Vallejo Panzer Aces Shadow Flesh or Vallejo Game Color Terracotta and give it a wash with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE). Then a heavy highlight with the base color and then some light highlights with a "pure" red. Next I start on the teeth I'base coat them with dull yellow-tan like Vallejo Model Color Yellow Ochre (YO), then cover 80% of the YO with an ivory like Vallejo Game Color Bonewhite (Bw), leaving the base of the teeth yellowish fading into the Bw. I might use a little pure white on the tips of the teeth. I'll usually do a very light targeted wash at the base of the teeth with AE with a little GW Nuln Oil (NO) mixed in to give a nice sharp division between the teeth and the gums. Priming - Heated primer works great. I heat up some water to near boiling in a bowl, I shake up my primer and put it in the bowl and let it sit for about 5 minutes before using it. The primer comes out of the can like its propelled by a jet engine, even when you are down to the dregs it still comes out easy. The primer seems better mixed, gives a more even coat and of a better consistency then when I don't heat it up. Clear Coating - There isn't much to say about clear coating other than I like Testors Dull Coat, and I will often coat a model several times during the painting process. I'll get to point I like and I'll seal it to protect what I've already done. I'll usually dull coat after I've done a lot of thin layers of wash or after I've done some airbrushing and I'm going to start doing some brush work, since both of these apply thin layers of paint that are easier to rub off with a brush than a typical brushed on layer of paint.
  6. A bunch of models I painted up for a friend. They aren't to my usual standard, but I still like them. I also want pics of them since they will soon leave my possession. FYI - My photography skill is not so good. There is more contrast that what you see here, so the darks are darker; the lights are lighter and the transitions are not as as smooth in real life.
  7. Those look really nice!
  8. Here's a list of Malifaux resources I've compiled. It is a bit Pacific NW focused, I'm making this so I have one place to refer my players when they ask were to find X. If Anyone has anything to add please let me know. Malifaux Resources Getting Started Wyrd - Wyrd's Website Free M2E Rules Manual - Free Rulebook download. Building On A Budget – Fantastic articles breaking down the best crews from each faction for new players. (NEW) Guild, Arcanists, Ressers, Neverborn, Outcasts, Gremlins, Ten Thunders. Wyrd Resource Page - FAQ (updated first week of odd numbered months), official play formats, model build instructions, Campaign Files, Reference Cards, etc. Pull my Finger - Tactical Wiki. Media – Some videos and podcast directed and new and/or potential players. Schemes and Stones Ep. 41 – Welcome to Malifaux (NEW) Red Jokers Ep. 10 - Beginnersode (NEW) Critical Twits Ep. 43 – How to get into Malifaux (NEW) Guerilla Miniature Gaming – How to Play Video Part 1 & Part 2 Pacific Northwest Malifaux Breaching the Emerald City - Facebook Group dedicated to Malifaux in the greater Seattle region. Northwest Wargamers - Facebook Group where events are often published. Edmonds/Everett Area Malifaux - Wyrd Forum post about the events I run in the area. Mugu Games - Everett game store with Malifaux stock and events. PFC Games - Edmonds game store with Malifaux stock and events. Card Kingdom - Ballard game store with Malifaux stock and events. TerraCrux Games - Tacoma game store with Malifaux stock and events. Green Lake Games - A Seattle game store with Malifaux events, but NO STOCK. Online Tools and Downloads By The Hanging Tree - Crew Creator. Godswearhats - Scheme generator. Organized Play Format Docs - Tournament, league and alternant format rule download. GG2016 Card PDF - Printable GG2016 Strats and Schemes Card PDF. Marker Generator - On-line tool to design and print your own markers. Summoner Cards - Nifty reference cards for summoning masters. (NEW) Nezumi - Misc Cards and play aids for Malifaux and Puppet Wars. Fonts - Malifaux Rodent, Blood Crow Fluff Story Encounter Index - Forum post listing Malifaux Story Encounters. (NEW) 12 Names for 13 Tyrants - Great Post about the Tyrants. (NEW) Character Background Index - Where to find all the fluff on your favorite models. Character Background Order – Order to read background stories. (NEW) Groups, Forums and Blogs Wyrd Place - General discussion Facebook Group. Justin Drawing Dead - Justin Gibbs Blog. Unboxing Malifaux - Pics of models and some Stat cards. Painting, Building and Other Hobby Tips Guerilla Miniature Gaming - Youtube channel with Malifaux batreps. They are good, but not perfect with the rules. Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic - Youtube channel with lots of painting tutorials. Close to a dozen of the videos feature Malifaux in some way. Bleached Models - Painting blog with very nice figure painting. Gmorts Chaotica - Unboxing models. Do-It-Yourself Markers - The faction symbols on the Malifaux boxes are the perfect size for markers. Use a 30mm base as a guide and cut out the faction symbol for scheme markers. Run a light bead of super glue along the edge for strength. Flip them over for corps or scrap markers. MDT Hobby Blog - A bit narcissistic, but I know you all want to see this. Pod Casts Schemes and Stones Podcast - This podcast is focused on tactics. Most podcast feature a single master. Very well done. 5 out of 5 stars from me. Breachside Broadcast - Wyrd's podcast. Basically audio version of the fluff in the books. Red Jokers - Podcast on various Malifaux subjects. A group of Australians with master reviews, but primarily ad hoc Malifaux discussion. Wyrd Place Podcast - Podcast on various Malifaux subjects. Abnormalifaux - Podcast on various Malifaux subjects. Breach Boys - Podcast on various Malifaux subjects. Critical Condition - Podcast on various Malifaux subjects. Critical Twits - Youtube channel, not a Podcast, but in the same vein. Shopping - Official Merchandise Upcomming - Upcoming releases on the Wyrd site. Webstore - Wyrd's official store, but please support your FLGS if you can. DriveThruRpg - Wyrd rulebooks in PDF format. The small rulebook is free. OffWorld Designs - Wyrd T-shirts. Wargame Vault - Get individual stat cards and GG2016 Scheme and Strategy deck here. Shopping - Third Party Matts By Mars - Play mats with deployment areas, center lines, etc. marked. Laser cut wood terrain as well. Sparkle Party Death Mats - Play mats with deployment areas, center lines, etc. marked. Gale Force Nine - Magnetic 30mm, 40mm and 50mm round beveled bases. Frikead - Stickers to cover bases for those of you who don't like to paint. Widget Wizards - Markers, range rulers at good prices. They have x-wing templates as well. This is the place I went. Things Undone - Markers, base inserts, etc. Angry Mojo Games - Markers, range rulers, terrain, etc. Customeeple - Markers, terrain, etc. Tablewar – High end army transport cases. (NEW) Building On A Budget - The goal is to help players start a new faction and quickly build tournament viable lists on a budget. They only had guild lists up last time I checked. Shopping - Terrain Dave Graffam Models - Paper models for those on a budget. Free sample items. Matts By Mars - Laser cut wood terrain. Play mats with deployment areas, center lines, etc. marked as well. Large Events and Rankings Breaching the Faux - Annual Portland Malifaux Tournament (end if April-ish). US Rankings - Malifaux US Rankings site. UK Rankings - Malifaux UK Rankings site. UK-Rankings - Malifaux UK Rankings site. Henchman Items Note: Some of these items may be in the henchman only forums. Lucius's Logbook - Application to organize tournaments. Tournament Planner - Application to organize tournaments. Tournament Manager - Application to organize tournaments. Ratty Terrain - Ratty gives some advice on the "proper" way to set up terrain. Certificates - Certificates that can be handed out to players. Demo Advice - Some tips on running a demo. Must be a henchman to access. (NEW) Achievement Leagues – Two sheets for Achievment Leagues: Henchman Hardcore & Campaign (NEW) Misc. Malifaux Resources Post - A link to this list in the Wyrd forums. *Some of these post may seem redundant depending where you see them. That’s because I cut and paste the same list into forum posts, e-mail, etc…
  9. @Scalpelexis I've put some instructions in my thread where I posted the guild hound pics. I hope they help.
  10. @Scalpelexis, sorry I don't see your message in my PMs or in the thread. Regardless I'm glad you like them and I'll put something in the thread about how I painted the guild hounds (probably this weekend).
  11. Thank you! I'm not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure for the fur I started with Vallejo Game Color Bone White (BW) as a base, gave it a few very light washes with GW Agrax Earhshade, maybe with a tiny bit of GW Nuln Oil mixed in. Then I highlighed with more BW then with a mix of BW and white, then more highlighting with just pure white. I highlighted the faces with more pure white than I normally would have because I wanted a skull like look. You might also want to check out the first post in this thread. I've added more info on some of my techniques.
  12. Malifaux in Edmonds/Everett, WA - February Update We play at... Mugu Games 5233 Evergreen way Everett WA 98203 (425) 322-4826 Stocks Crew Boxes and the Starter Set, will make special orders. We play at... PFC Games 7528 Olympic View Dr, Edmonds, WA 98026 (425) 670-0550 Stocks the full line. Casual Play - Bring your crew and play someone. SL Campaigns - We have a Shifting Loyalties Campaign every couple months. Achievement Leagues - We have a Achievement Leagues every couple months. Demo Games - I always have the starter set models with me for new players to try out. If you want a game or demo at another time just message me and we can do that. Tournaments - We usually have a tournament the 4th Saturday of odd numbered months. Upcoming Events Malifaubia 3 Hardcore Henchman Tournament - Feb 18th 2017
  13. Malifaux in Edmonds/Everett, WA - February Update We play at... Mugu Games 5233 Evergreen way Everett WA 98203 (425) 322-4826 Stocks Crew Boxes and the Starter Set, will make special orders. We play at... PFC Games 7528 Olympic View Dr, Edmonds, WA 98026 (425) 670-0550 Stocks the full line. Casual Play - Bring your crew and play someone. SL Campaigns - We have a Shifting Loyalties Campaign every couple months. Achievement Leagues - We have a Achievement Leagues every couple months. Demo Games - I always have the starter set models with me for new players to try out. If you want a game or demo at another time just message me and we can do that. Tournaments - We usually have a tournament the 4th Saturday of odd numbered months. Upcoming Events Malifaubia 3 Hardcore Henchman Tournament - Feb 18th 2017
  14. Malifauxbia 3: Hardcore Henchmen Tournament 11:30 Saturday, Feb 18 2017 Mugu Games: (425) 322-4826, 5233 Evergreen Way, Everett, WA 98203 This event will follow the Gaining Grounds 2017/Hardcore Henchman alternate format. Any exceptions will be noted below. GG2017 and Hardcore Henchman full rules are available on the Wyrd website Resources section under Organized Play Formats. Registration $15 ($10 will go to prize support, $5 will to go to purchase terrain for future events) Please preregister at Please Pre-register at http://www.mugugames.com. 16 participant maximum Schedule: Registration at 11 am. Round 1 begins at 11:30. The tournament will consist of three 45 minute rounds with ~15 minutes between rounds. Proxy, Conversion, and Painting Rules: · Proxy models are not allowed for generally released models. Proxies for unreleased models must be appropriate representations of the model they stand for. Wyrd models may only be used to represent what they are, unless they are converted. Please check in advance with the organizer for suitability. · Conversions are an excellent way to show off your modeling skills. If using a model that was converted with pre-made bits, only 30% of the model may be built from other game companies’ models, while the rest has to be self-sculpted or Wyrd bits. · Models must be assembled (glued) and fixed to the appropriate size base. Crew Construction: · All Crews must be led by a Henchman, not a Master. · The game size is 20 Soulstones. · All Crews must contain exactly 4 models, no more, no less. · Upgrades may be purchased, as allowed by the standard rules of Malifaux. · The size of a Crew’s Soulstone Pool is limited by the Cache of the Henchman leading it; any Soulstones above this amount are discarded. · Any Actions, Abilities, or Triggers which summon models are considered to be “blank” (they may not be used and have no effect on the game, as if they were not printed on the model). · The same Crew must be used in each round of the event. Setup All rounds use the following set up: · Deployment: Close. · Strategy: Hardcore Turf War. This Strategy uses the Turf War rules (Core Rulebook pg. 66) with the exception that VP may be scored on the first Turn. · Scheme Pool: Assassinate (Core Rulebook pg. 68). This is the only Scheme available and it must always be taken. Prizes: Prizes will be based on attendance; $ will be given in Store Credit; number of Mystery boxes will depend on participation. Maximum of one prize per participant. · 1st Place: 1/3 pool in credit (max $100.00), Winner Guilder (replaces Participant Guilder), First choice of Mystery boxes (4+ participants) · 2nd Place: 1/6 pool in credit (max $50.00), Participant Guilder, Second choice of Mystery boxes (6+ participants) · 3rd Place: 1/6 pool in credit (max $50.00), Participant Guilder · Participant: Participant Guilder for all Participants to pre-register o Raffle Prize: 1/3 (max $50.00), with 12+ participants third choice of Mystery boxes o One ticket for Participating o One ticket if every model used in the event is fully painted (including base).
  15. That PDF is also just the January changes. It doesn't include previous Errata. I really don't like using the interface on the web site. I much prefer having a document to reference and that can be easily printed off and taken with to events.
  16. Thanks, I wasn't sure if these were the final versions or not since it is not posted to the FAQ/Eratta section of the web site. It would also be nice to have them there just so you don't have to search the forums.
  17. My Oni
  18. Can we get a PDF with all the Errata cards in one place? Or does it exist and I'm missing it?
  19. Nice video, I love the models. I'll definitely be picking some of these up even if I don't play. My favorite part is how the CC kept displaying "mali phone" for Malifaux.
  20. Most of the Rasputina Translucent Blue box is done. Finally. This set has been sitting on the shelf for quite some time. I bought this box when it was first released (four years ago, I think). I wasn't sure how to paint the translucent plastic. I didn't like how it looked just naked, so it sat for a LONG time. Anyway I finally decided to try oil paint since they are more translucent than the acrylics I usually use. I washed them in dark blue and oil washes and highlighted with a little bit of titanium white oil paint. The implements carried by the gamin are also painted with titanium white oil paint. Without any paint they just look like shiny blue blobs. The Golem also has a coating of matte spray. Without it, it was just too shiny you you couldn't see any of the detail. I haven't deiced if I'm going to coat the gamin yet, being smaller they don't see to have as much of an issue with the shiny. I didn't want to use the Guild Guard for the Wendigo so I created his left hand and foot from green stuff. I thought I did a pretty good job until I started painting. UGG! I'll do better next time. I haven't painted Rasputina yet. I'm not a huge fan of the trans material on figures that would be translucent. It's a lot harder to see what you are doing to fill gaps and such with green stuff so I figure I'll get the Vintage Rasputina and not worry about painting this on up.
  21. Ama No Zako is done. That's the last of the oni until I get my Yasunori and Akaname from Back Friday.
  22. What santacalws01 and Ludvig said. Along those lines of thinking, if Hannah popped focus, then used Make a New Entry to copy Action X from another model she would get the benefit for both Make a New Entry and Action X.
  23. True you will not get the to any of the attacks. But the +1 applys until the action is complete. It is not complete until all of the sub actions are resolved. If you have a TT Archer with Focus in Sensei Yu's aura you have a choice: 1) Pop Focus then Rapid Fire: Three Sh attacks with +1 to the dual total. 2) Rapid Fire then Pop Focus: One Sh attack at , Two Sh attacks with no bonus.
  24. I think they work just like the Belle's do. I can't say that is a sure thing, but that's how I'd play it. In Malifaux "toward" means "directly toward". So I'd say the converse is true as well. It does seem odd that the word directly was included if they just meant toward, but unfortunately the rules are littered with inconsistent language that means the same thing.
  25. I don't like this answer, but I think you do get the +1 to all the attacks. According to the pre-cuddle FAQ (wish I'd kept a copy) Levi's Channel did give the to both attacks generated by an Cg. The language is similar between the two abilities, so it seems the same logic would apply to both. Channel: When declaring an Action, this model may suffer exactly 2 damage to gain + to all duels and damage flips for the remainder of the Action; the Action fails if this model is killed by this Ability. Master of the Wandering River Style: Friendly models within 3 removing the Focused Condition add 1 to their duel totals for the remainder of the Action.