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MrDeathTrout

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Everything posted by MrDeathTrout

  1. MrDeathTrout

    What is a + worth?

    I was wondering about the odds of flipping different cards given different hand sizes, , (not done yet), etc. So I generated some tables and figured would be easy to determine exactly what a was worth. Once I had the tables it wasn't as easy as I thought. I posted the tables on line as well as my thoughts what a is worth. Here's a link to the tables: http://glowingsaber.com/math.html I've put a copy of my thoughts here. I'm wonder what everyone else thinks a is worth. How much is a worth? On average a single card flip will yield a 7, a flip will yield a 10, and a an 11. Does that mean Ml 5 with and Df 8 are equivalent? No. If each player has an unfiltered hand (no holdovers from last round, no Rush of Magic, etc.) of six cards then an attacker with has 8 cards to choose from and the defender has 7 to choose from. If you look at any given result (e.g. having a 6 +) the attacker has at most a 4.8% advantage and the advantage is less than a 1% for a little over half the results. In a nutshell early in the turn the attacker will need to cheat in a card 3 at least higher than the defenders to with the duel. No assume both players have exhausted their hands are relying on just top decking what they need. The attacker now has a significant advantage. They have a better percentage chance of getting any given result or better, peaking at a 25.3% advantage for a 7+ or 8+. A 13+ only has a 8.5% advantage, but that is nearly double the chances of the defender flipping a 13+. Then again if the defender flips a 10 they need a 13+ just to tie. I though once I generated these probability tables it would be easy to answer this question, but it definitely is not simple. IMHO, a is definitely not as good as +3, is probably not as good as +2, and is probably better than +1. I would say a is roughly equal to +1.5.
  2. MrDeathTrout

    What is a + worth?

    You might be right. I depends on how you define average. I went with odds are you will flip it at least 50% of the time. My math could also be off, but while I'm not 100% sure it is correct I have very high confidence it is.
  3. MrDeathTrout

    MDT Hobby Blog

    I've started reworking the red jorogumo. I broke off the top of the glaive, unfortunately one of the models that were not designed to survive the table top, so I've replaced that. I've also been wanting to make an Asami-gumo. In the end I decided just go with a female Jororgumo. The only real difference would probabaly be the hair and back of the head. I've never really be happy with how the red turned out, so I'm gong to do some work on that as well, I still haven't decided what though...
  4. MrDeathTrout

    MDT Hobby Blog

    I've decided to start posting pics of my minis. Its not that I'm a great painter, but I'm hoping it will inspire me to paint better. Once I'm done with a model if look at it and don't want to post any pics then I'd better keep working. Since I've started posting Pics I've got a few questions about how I paint, so I'm adding some instructions to some of the pics. Since this is the first post in this thread I'm also adding some general tips I can refer back to from some other photos instead of posting the same instructions for X over and over. This page is a work in progress. If I get more questions I'll probably collect more and more techniques on this post to keep them more or less centralized. First up the guild hounds. Can anyone guess the theme? Someone asked me how these where painted so here are my best guesses. I'm not sure I will get all of the colors 100% correct, its been a while since I painted these guys. The Pale Dog (four feet on the ground) was base coated with Vallejo Game Color Bone White (BW) and washed several times with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE). The wash was thinned with water and applied several times in very thin coats. A little bit of GW Nuln Oil (NO) was added for some of the darker recesses where there were creases (like around the eyes). After washing I highlighted back up with BW and BW mixed with a little bit of white. The White Dog (leaping over a bush) used the same process as the Pale Dog, just sub in Vallejo Game Color Wolf Gray for the base coat and GW Nuln Oil for the washes. The Red Dog, sorry, but none of the colors I have match the base coat here. My best guess is mixed a custom color starting with a light to medium brown and mixing in a bit of orange. A dull rather than bright orange would be best, but I don't remember for sure. Then I washed with - you guessed it - GW Agrax Earthshade (AE) and highlighted up the base coat again. Do do some final highlights I'm guessing I would have mixed in some of the original light brown or some Vallejo Game Color Bone White (BW) into the original orange mix. The "white" parts (the muzzle is visible here, but the belly and insides of the legs are also "white") use the same colors and technique as the Pale Dog. The Black Dog uses the same base, wash highlight as the pale dog buy with Vallejo Game Color Heavy Charcoal as the base and GW Nuln Oil (NO) as the wash. The Red parts used the same colors and techniques as the Red Dog. I'm pretty sure I used more or less layers of wash to give it a more brown than red look.The Brown bits see Brown Bits in General Tips Below. The Silver bits see Silver in General Tips Below. The Leather bits see Brown Bits in General Tips Below. I'm pretty sure the base coat here was Vallejo Model Color English Uniform. Mounting these guys to the base was a challenge. They have such small contact points and super thin legs I was very concerned with how to attach them to the base that would be both sturdy and look good. The black dog was also just super glued, because he was first and was kind of the catalyst that made me reconsider how to attach the rest. The pale dog with all four feet on the ground was just super glued since four points of contact should be good. The white jumping dog is pinned to the "shrub" he's jumping over. The base of the shrub (made from several roots glued together) goes through a hole drilled into the base. The red dog is on small foot. The cobble stones on my bases are sculpted from putty, so I cut out the stone the dogs leg is on and replaced it with a piece of plasticard carved to match the stones on the base. Then the dogs foot was glued to the plastic stone using plastic glue which makes a much stronger bond than super glue. The Theme (I don't think anyone has even hazarded a guess at this point) is the four dogs of the apocalypse. The colors vary depending on your source, but the colors of the horses ridden by the four horsemen are red, black, pale and white. General Tips Back and Forth - I'll often say I painted that color using base coat A, wash B and highlight C, then highlight D, etc... While that is generally true it is often a bit more complicated. Highlighting may come out a bit brighter than I wanted to I give it another thin layer of wash, then the ears are too dark so I highlight them again, then... The point is I do follow the general steps of base, wash, highlight back up but often I will repete a lot of the steps over again on a much smaller scale over and over going back and forth until I get the effect I'm looking for. Washes - I use a lot of washes when I paint. Washes give a color depth removing the flat look of a pure color. I apply them in VERY thin coats, often deluded with water at a 1:1 ratio, and I make sure there are no pools. When I wash a model it is usually 4-6 coats of same very thin wash applied several times. I'll usually go back and paint in some wash where I want it the darkest. For these follow-up targeted washes I'll sometimes add in a bit if a darker wash as well. If you are applying a lot of thin layers of wash make sure they fully dry between layers and once you get up to 4-5 layers makes sure the wash has time to dry thoroughly before doing more layers. Once layers of wash start to build up you can easily wipe off the whole "stack" with your brush leaving a perfectly clean stripe. Sometimes I'll give it coat of sealant and let dry over night before continuing. My default color for a wash is GW Agrax Earthshade. Its a medium/dark brown that gives a "realistic" look to most colors when applies sparingly. If I'm not going for a super clean look I'll probably use Agrax for the wash. If I want it a bit darker I'll mix in a bit of GW Nuln Oil. I use almost exlusivly GW washes. For the easy of use and effect I've never found any brand that matches up to GW. If anyone can point to other good washes I'd love to hear about them. Targeted washes, when I use this term I mean just putting the wash where I want it, like painting a bit of wash just in a seam line between a pair of lips, to darken that line. Like all my washes these are very thin and will probably take several coats. I never do a targeted wash anywhere that hasn't already been washed with the same wash or a very similar wash. If you don't aready have this foundation you'll get a line at the edge of where the wash stops. By a very similar wash I mean the same colors in a different ratio or maybe a little bit of a new color added in, usually GW Nuln Oil to darken the wash since I'm usually putting this in area I want darker. Metalics in General - When I apply metallic paints I drybrush them on keeping my brush strokes in the same direction as mush as possible. I've found this gives a more natural metallic look. I have a hypothesis as to why; most metallic model paint is ground aluminium in a medium with pigment to give it color (none for bright silver, yellowish for gold, red-brown for copper, etc.). If you put this paint on wet like you would any other paint or if your brush strokes go in all different directions the aluminum particles are in a jumble. If you "drybrush" it on with brush strokes in the same direction the particles lie flat and are aligned giving you a nicer looking metallic. I also often use Air brush paints for matallics since the particles are finer they give a smoother less sparkly look. I also do not use an airbrush to apply metallics, they always look sparkly to me. I don't know if this is my lack of skill, the jumbled particles I talk about above or both. Dull Coat gives a nice matte finish, which I like, but it dulls down the shine on the metallics. So after the final Dull Coating I do one final highlight get the shine back. Silver - I do most silver about the same. Base coat with Vallejo Game Color Heavy Charcoal then cover with Vallejo Model Color Gunmetal Gray (GG). I highlight with Vallejo Model Air Gun (Gun) and then with Vallejo Model Air Aluminum (Aluminum). Then I wash with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE) and GW Nuln Oil (NO). If I want a dirtier look I use more AE in the ratio, for a darker look I use more layers of wash. Then I'll highlight with Gun and very sparingly with Aluminum, just a few bright spots and edges; too much and the effect is lost. See Metalics In General above as well. Brown Bits - For leather or brown cloth I start with a medium to light brown like Vallejo Model Color English Uniform or Vallejo Game Color Heavy Brown and wash it repeatedly with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE) with a bit of GW Nuln Oil (NO) mixed in. This is a lot of very thin washes, done over period of days. I just keep going untill I have the tone I want. When you are putting on this may layers you need to let the dry well or pretty soon they start dissolving again ant id make a huge mess (see washes in the General Tips Below). Sometimes I'll clear coat them and let them sit over night before continuing the wash process. Some times I'll do a little bit of highlighting with the base color and some edge highlighting with an even lighter brown. I find this technique gives a lot of depth to the brown and you can base coat several areas with the same brown and by varying the number and AE to NO ratio on different parts of the model end up with different colors of brown. Toothy Maw - I paint most of open mouths full of teeth about the same. Base coat with a dark reddish brown like Vallejo Panzer Aces Shadow Flesh or Vallejo Game Color Terracotta and give it a wash with GW Agrax Earthshade (AE). Then a heavy highlight with the base color and then some light highlights with a "pure" red. Next I start on the teeth I'base coat them with dull yellow-tan like Vallejo Model Color Yellow Ochre (YO), then cover 80% of the YO with an ivory like Vallejo Game Color Bonewhite (Bw), leaving the base of the teeth yellowish fading into the Bw. I might use a little pure white on the tips of the teeth. I'll usually do a very light targeted wash at the base of the teeth with AE with a little GW Nuln Oil (NO) mixed in to give a nice sharp division between the teeth and the gums. Priming - Heated primer works great. I heat up some water to near boiling in a bowl, I shake up my primer and put it in the bowl and let it sit for about 5 minutes before using it. The primer comes out of the can like its propelled by a jet engine, even when you are down to the dregs it still comes out easy. The primer seems better mixed, gives a more even coat and of a better consistency then when I don't heat it up. Clear Coating - There isn't much to say about clear coating other than I like Testors Dull Coat, and I will often coat a model several times during the painting process. I'll get to point I like and I'll seal it to protect what I've already done. I'll usually dull coat after I've done a lot of thin layers of wash or after I've done some airbrushing and I'm going to start doing some brush work, since both of these apply thin layers of paint that are easier to rub off with a brush than a typical brushed on layer of paint.
  5. Malifauxbia 6: What? 3 round Malifaux Tournament 11:30 Saturday, February 24 2018 Mugu Games: (425) 322-4826, 5233 Evergreen Way, Everett, WA 98203 A Gaining Grounds 2017 format event. Any exceptions will be noted below. Registration $15 (75% will go to prize support, 25% will to go to purchase terrain and/or additional prize support) 16 participant maximum Schedule: Registration at 11 am. Round 1 begins at 11:30. See below for individual rounds. Proxy, Conversion, and Painting Rules: GG guidelines are followed for the most part. There is no painting requirement, but models must be assembled and fixed to the appropriate size base. You must use the official Wyrd models (as stipulated in the GG document) with exceptions for unreleased models the “rule of cool”. The “rule off cool” allows and encourages cool conversions and proxies, it does not allow proxies because someone does not have the appropriate model. All proxies must be a good depiction of the model they represent (e.g. Lazarus should be a large robot, Yin should be a bunch of guts, Torakage should be ninjas). A model that makes the table “harder to read” will not be allowed Please check in advance with the organizer for suitability any non-standard model. Rounds: Round 1: Hardcore Henchman. Round 2: Campifaux. Round 3: 50 SS Supply Wagons with Blind deployment and Guilder Dash. Prizes: Prizes are based on attendance; the prize pool ($) is in Store Credit. Each participant will receive on raffle ticket and on additional raffle ticket if every model used in the event if fully based and painted. 4-11 Participants 12+ Participants 1st Place* 25% of Prize pool, Sm Mystery Box, Winner Guilder 25% of Prize pool, Lg Mystery Box, Winner Guilder 2nd Place* 25% of Prize pool, Sm Mystery Box 25% of Prize pool, Sm Mystery Box 3rd Place* 25% of Prize pool 25% of Prize pool, Limited edition stat card. Raffle Prize* Limited edition stat card. Sm Mystery Box *Maximum of one prize per participant. Round 1: HH Deployment: Close Strategy: Hard Core Turf War Schemes: Assassinate Time: 45 Min Hardcore Turf War "Don't you dare," Nicodem squinted his eyes at the coroner. "If you say it, there will be death. If it slips from that cobweb of thoughts and delusions you call a mind, and pushes past your tongue to rush past your lips, I'll end this. I won't hesitate, blood's bad enough here. This is my cemetery, these are my bodies. MINE!" McMourning couldn't control himself. He choked back the words at first, but his wide grin overcame him. "This graveyard ain't big enough for the both of us." Dark will guided the bones of Nicodem's zombies as they struck from the shadows. Dark will and fury. Setup Place a single Turf Marker at the Center of the table. Victory Points At the end of each Turn, a Crew earns 1 VP if it has two or more non-Peon models within 6" of the Turf Marker. Assassinate (C) The opposing leader must die! This Scheme begins the game unrevealed. If the enemy Leader is killed or sacrificed, reveal this Scheme. If the enemy Leader is killed or sacrificed, gain 2 VP. If this happens on or before Turn 4, score 3 VP instead. Round 2: Camp Faux Deployment: Special Strategy: Camp Faux Schemes: None Time: 70 Min (35 Min for each game) This round will consist of two 35 minutes games. One player will play the Hunter and the other player will play the Counselors in game one. The players will switch roles for game two. Scoring Each player can score a maximum of 5 VP from the strategy in each game. Each players VP for the round is the sum of their VP from the two games. Camp Faux Hiring All models and upgrades are considered to be Rare 1 for this encounter. There are no Leaders in this encounter, and thus no free models. During hiring any unspent SS are lost. Hunter The Hunter may be any non-master model totaling 13 points or less including upgrades. 0 point models are valued at 10 points. Counselors The Counselor crew is 35SS, and must have exactly 5 non-master models. Up to two out of faction models may be hired at no additional cost, out of faction models may be proxied. Set Up Each player flips a card (reflip ties). The player with the higher card plays the Hunter, the other player plays the counselors. Hunter places six Camper Markers on the field at least 6” from the table edge and any other Camper Marker. Counselors deploy first, completely within 6 inches of the board’s center. Hunter deploys in base contact of any board edge. Then declares a board edge they are in contact with as friendly. While not needed for this scenario, for game effects that require it, deployment is standard with the hunter’s friendly board edge being the back edge of their deployment zone. The opposite deployment zone belongs to the Counselors. Special Rules Each player has a default maximum Hand Size of four cards. Any game effect which summons models, or alters deployment are considered to be “blank” (they may not be used and have no effect on the game, as if they were not printed on the model). There is no round limit for this encounter, do not flip for ending the Encounter. Once either player reaches 5 VP the game ends immediately (no more VP may be scored, do not perform upkeep, etc.). Hunter The Hunter gains these Abilities: Bloodlust: After killing an enemy model, this model gains reactivate. Unrelenting: Whenever this model would gain a Condition from an enemy model it may choose to not gain the Condition instead. Whenever this model would take damage from an enemy model it may choose to reduce the damage to 1. If this model would be removed from play, instead it heals all wounds, and the Hunter palaces the model in base contact with any board edge. You are Puny: This model may leave enemy engagement range, charge while engaged and use projectile actions while engaged. The Hunter gains this Action: (0) “IT’S RIGHT BEHIND YOU!” (Ca: 6 / TN: 11): This action may only be taken if no enemy model can draw LoS to this model. Place this model anywhere completely within 10” that is also within 1” of blocking terrain. This model may not take charge actions for the remainder of the activation. Patient: As long as at least one opposing model has an activation remaining this model may elect not activate. If it does so they retain their activation, and the activation passed back to their opponent. Victory Points Each player may score a maximum of 5 VP from this strategy. Counselor models can use a (1) Interact Action to remove a Camper Marker in base contact with itself. If they do so, this Crew scores 1 VP, and the Hunter may place itself in base contact with the Camper Marker before it is removed. The Hunter scores 1 VP the first time each Counselor model leaves play. Attribution This scenario is based on one posted by Mox_Henchman. Round 3: Fifty Deployment: Blind Strategy: Supply Wagons Schemes: Guarded Treasure Vendetta Take Prisoner Inspection TBD GG2018 Special: Guilder Dash Blind Deployment In the Deploy Crews Step, the player deploying the first model is the Red Player, and the opponent is the Black Player. The players take a number of cards from a Fate Deck equal to the number of models in the Crew of the appropriate color. For example, the Red Player with 7 models will take 7 Rams or Masks from the deck. Shuffle the red and black cards together to form a temporary deck. Starting with the Black Player, each player places a card from the top of the temporary deck face down (without looking at it) anywhere on the table, not touching another card. Once all the cards are placed, flip them over. Each player may deploy a single model (starting with the Red Player) anywhere on top of a card of their color and then that card is removed. Once the players have deployed all of their models, the deployment is treated as Standard Deployment (see pg. 65) for the remainder of the game, choosing a Deployment Zone as normal (but not actually placing any models there). This is important because some mechanics will reference the player's Deployment Zone. From the shadows may not be used this game. Supply Wagons (Modified for Blind Deployment) After deploying models, starting with the Red player, each player places one 50mm, Ht 3, Blocking, Impassable, Hard Cover friendly Supply Wagon Marker on their side of the table, anywhere completely in their deployment zone and not in terrain. Special Non-Peon models in base contact with a Supply Wagon Marker may take a (1) Interact Action to push the Marker in any direction, ignoring intervening models. If this Marker would come into base contact with impassable terrain, it stops in base contact with the terrain, if that terrain was a Terrain Marker, remove that marker and then continue the push as normal. Supply Wagon Markers cannot end a push on a models base. The distance of the push depends on the model’s base size: • 30mm: Up to 2" • 40mm: Up to 3" • 50mm: Up to 4" Victory Points At the end of every Turn after the first, a Crew earns 1 VP if they have a friendly Supply Wagon at least partially on their opponent's side of the board. Guarded Treasure This Scheme may not start revealed. Reveal this Scheme once this Crew has earned any VP from it. At the end of every Turn after the first, this Crew earns 1 VP if it has at least two Scheme Markers within 2" of the Centerline, at least 8" apart, and each has at least 1 friendly non-Peon, non-Minion model within 3". After scoring, remove all friendly Scheme Markers within 2" of the Centerline. Vendetta This Scheme may not start revealed. Reveal this Scheme once this Crew has scored any VP from it. The scheming player notes one of their non-Leader, non-Peon models with a Soulstone cost greater than 0 and an enemy model with a Soulstone cost equal to or greater than the scheming player's chosen model. If the noted friendly model's first Attack Action in the game is against the noted enemy model, score 1 VP and reveal this Scheme. If the noted enemy model is not in play at the end of the game, and this Scheme has been revealed, score 1 additional VP. If the noted enemy model is killed by the chosen friendly model, score 3 VP. Take Prisoner This Scheme may not start revealed. When you choose this Scheme, note down an enemy model. At the end of the game, if this Crew has at least one non-Peon model engaged with the noted enemy model, this Crew earns 2 VP. If this Crew earns any VP from this Scheme and there are no other enemy models within 3” of the noted model, this Crew earns 1 additional VP. Guilder Dash Place a Cash Marker at the center of the table. A model in base contact with the marker may take a (1) Interact action to pick up and “hold” the marker. If the model holding the marker sufferers Sever damage the opponent of the model places the Cash Marker anywhere where within 2” and LoS not in base contact with a model; after resolving the current action and all triggers. If the marker cannot be placed legally it is not dropped. At the end of the game the crew holding the marker (or the last crew to hold the marker if none do so) earn one extra Guilder. Inspection This Scheme may not start revealed. Reveal this Scheme once this Crew has scored any VP from it. At the end of every Turn after the first, this Crew scores 1 VP if it has at least one non-Peon model within 4” of where each end of the Centerline of the board meets the board edge (or corner). Covert Breakthrough This Scheme may not start revealed. At the end of the game, this Crew earns 1 VP for each of its Scheme Markers within 6” of the enemy Deployment Zone.
  6. MrDeathTrout

    Transporting Shadow Emissary

    I got a tablewar case. The mid size one (which is the one I recomend) will run you about $150, but well worth it if you can afford it. You can transport a lot of models of any shape or size. And easily reconfigure it for other games just by moving the shelf.
  7. MrDeathTrout

    Malifaux in Edmonds/Everett, WA

    This is a scenario we are play testing for an upcoming tournament. Round 2 Deployment: Special Strategy: Camp Faux Schemes: None Time: 70 Min (35 Min for each game) Time This round will consist of two 35 minutes games. One player will play the Hunter and the other player will play the Counselors in game one. The players will switch roles for game two. Scoring Each player can score a maximum of 5 VP from the strategy in each game. Each players VP for the round is the sum of their VP from the two games. Camp Faux Hiring All models and upgrades are considered to be Rare 1 for this encounter. There are no Leaders in this encounter, and thus no free models. During hiring any unspent SS are lost. Hunter The Hunter may be any non-master model totaling 13 points or less including upgrades. 0 point models are valued at 10 points. Counselors The Counselor crew is 35SS, and must have exactly 5 non-master models. Up to two out of faction models may be hired at no additional cost, out of faction models may be proxied. Set Up Each player flips a card (reflip ties). The player with the higher card plays the Hunter, the other player plays the counselors. Hunter places six Camper Markers on the field at least 6” from the table edge and any other Camper Marker. Counselors deploy first, completely within 6 inches of the board’s center. Hunter deploys in base contact of any board edge. Special Rules Each player has a default maximum Hand Size of four cards. Any game effect which summons models, or alters deployment are considered to be “blank” (they may not be used and have no effect on the game, as if they were not printed on the model). There is no round limit for this encounter, do not flip for ending the Encounter. Once either player reaches 5 VP the game ends immediately (no more VP may be scored, do not perform upkeep, etc.). Hunter The Hunter gains these Abilities: Bloodlust: After killing an enemy model, this model gains reactivate. Unrelenting: Whenever this model would gain a Condition from an enemy model it may choose to not gain the Condition instead. Whenever this model would take damage from an enemy model it may choose to reduce the damage to 1. If this model would be removed from play, instead it heals all wounds, and the Hunter palaces the model in base contact with any board edge. You are Puny: This model may leave enemy engagement range, charge while engaged and use projectile actions while engaged. The Hunter gains this Action: (0) “IT’S RIGHT BEHIND YOU!” (Ca: 6 / TN: 11): This action may only be taken if no enemy model can draw LoS to this model. Place this model anywhere completely within 10” that is also within 1” of blocking terrain. This model may not take charge actions for the remainder of the activation. Victory Points Each player may score a maximum of 5 VP from this strategy. Counselor models can use a (1) Interact Action to remove a Camper Marker in base contact with itself. If they do so, this Crew scores 1 VP, and the Hunter may place itself in base contact with the Camper Marker before it is removed. The Hunter scores 1 VP the first time each Counselor model leaves play. Attribution This scenario is based on one posted by Mox_Henchman.
  8. MrDeathTrout

    Malifaux in Edmonds/Everett, WA

    Malifaux in Edmonds/Everett, WA We play at these two stores. We do not currently have a regular schedule. Mugu Games 5233 Evergreen way Everett WA 98203 (425) 322-4826 Stocks Crew Boxes and the Starter Set, will make special orders. PFC Games 7528 Olympic View Dr, Edmonds, WA 98026 (425) 670-0550 Stocks the full line. Casual Play - Bring your crew and play someone. SL Campaigns - We have a Shifting Loyalties Campaign every couple months. Achievement Leagues - We have a Achievement Leagues every couple months. Demo Games - I always have the starter set models with me for new players to try out. If you want a game or demo at another time just message me and we can do that. Tournaments - We usually have a tournament the 4th Saturday of odd numbered months.
  9. MrDeathTrout

    MDT Hobby Blog

    Malifaux comes to my wife's x-mas village. According to her "I am not funny".
  10. MrDeathTrout

    Bad Things Happen - 11/13/17 Patch Notes

    Android. I checked when I saw this thread and there was no update available. Once Aaron said it had been released the update button was active for me in the play store.
  11. MrDeathTrout

    Bad Things Happen - 11/13/17 Patch Notes

    I would love to be able to browse through upgrades on the model list screen.
  12. MrDeathTrout

    Bad Things Happen - 11/13/17 Patch Notes

    I can confirm it is available in the US at least. Just updated.
  13. MrDeathTrout

    Malifaux App Launched!

    I can add upgrade to models when creating a crew. How do you look at upgrades if your just browsing?
  14. MrDeathTrout

    Revisionist History Vs Gamble Your Life

    Flay does not work against Nellie since "Damage flips against this model may not be cheated by other models." Flay only allows you to ignore damage flip restrictions due to 's. So it can't cheat damage against Nellie for the same reason she can't cheat damage flips against Gable Your Life. If Flay did work against her Flay (a trigger) would resolve before Revisionist History (an ability) since "Whenever any Ability happens at the same time as any Triggers, the Triggers are resolved first."
  15. Aaron did a great two part interview on the combat phase podcast. He really seems to have it together, gave me a great deal of confidence that wherever Malifaux goes it will continue to be a great game. Both halves of the interview start at about the 40 minute mark. Part 1: http://www.combatphase.com/2017/10/01/episode-214/ Part 2: http://www.combatphase.com/2017/10/07/episode-215/
  16. MrDeathTrout

    Get Gourd Contest!

    Not Wyrd themed, so not an entry, but any excuse to post my Jack o' Lantern.
  17. MrDeathTrout

    Broken Promises PDF

    I don't expect this to happen, since I'm sure you have quite enough work to do already, but... If you want to make the game more accessible for a variety of devices I know some people in my meta would love to see a 'naked' version of the books. Basically a PDF that looks just like the beta sheets that are posted, but with the models final stats. No pictures, no fluff, just the facts mam.
  18. MrDeathTrout

    Broken Promises PDF

    Wyrd, thanks for once again listening and responding to the community. You guys are great!
  19. MrDeathTrout

    Broken Promises PDF

    For my two sense this is a HUGE drawback. Losing the ability to search stat cards is big deal for me. It also means you can't cut and past rules questions into the forums.
  20. MrDeathTrout

    Lady J - Justice Unleashed

    Thanks. You're search-fu is far superior to mine.
  21. MrDeathTrout

    What about Ten Thunders erratas ?

    They do resolve at the same time, so you need to check general timing. Since they are both abilities you need to go to the steps. Assuming huggie was the defender and Lynch was not the attacker Death Contract takes effect in step 2, then Rising Sun (on Lynch) takes effect in step 3 or 4 depending on if he's the first or second player. PS I'm all for this getting fixed, but Raputina getting to use her Overpower trigger on a model she just killed should be fixed as well. Think these both fall into the same category, though the rules that make them work are different.
  22. MrDeathTrout

    Lady J - Justice Unleashed

    Do either of you now if Opheila's card is one that was ever errata'd? Both my rulebooks paper and PDF both have two of her tactical actions listed as Attack Actions. Wargame vault doesn't show the back of the card.
  23. MrDeathTrout

    Lady J - Justice Unleashed

    Can you tell me where it says that? I don't see it in the FAQ or Errata.
  24. MrDeathTrout

    What about Ten Thunders erratas ?

    Second that. If we have 20-30 models errata'd every January its going to get really old really fast.
  25. MrDeathTrout

    Lynch Cheating Bastard and Red Joker

    I used it once too. Nothing lower than an 11 in my hand, so...
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