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wetdigestive

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About wetdigestive

  • Birthday 02/02/1971

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  1. yes...this all helps a lot. Thank you!
  2. so if i do not glue the arachnids onto the base that would leave three singles to use as singles, and i would just have to plunk them onto the base ( the large base ) to represent the swarm? this brings up another question; when they are running individually, do i have to put them each onto a 30mm base, or do i run them on their little legs with no base? I would imagine that i need to put them onto 30mm bases for measurement purposes ( targeting / movement etc...) ? Apologies if this is a stupid question or one with an obvious solution; I'm just trying to picture it.
  3. I believe this is why these things are considered to be " magical abilities " or " spells " because they can cause beings that would normally not fall for such guiles to do so. I think that even in the most amorous and relaxing environments I would be hard pressed to fall, of my own uninfluenced volition, for the allures of a rotting undead prostitute?....eeeew! It would most certainly take a spell to do this!
  4. Hey all! Just thought I'd share an idea I had. Some of you may have already figured this one out, but for those who hadn't here's a very sweet way of making signs for industrial type buildings. On the inside of a lot of packaging these days is a little sensor tag that is stuck on. If you peel them off carefully they will not bend and will have enough stickyness to them to suffice for attaching them to your scenery. I have included pictures below as examples;
  5. yes, that is helpful...thank you much mate!
  6. Hey; just a quick question to anyone who plays ramos a lot; Aproximately how many arachnids and other constructs should I build and have on hand in an average game? ( 25-35 ss worth ) I would like to purchase more figures that ramos conjures up during a game, but have no idea how many to get? i don't want to go overboard, but I don't want to come up short and have to proxy with other figs ( i loath proxying :-( ) Thanks all O/ - Wetdigestive.
  7. i am also a gamer from vancouver b.c....so, is there a following around these parts that you know about?

  8. verify: yes, masonite is a brand name used generically for hardboard ( like we say " I need a bandaid " in North America when we want a bandage ). So...here's the update on the baseboard materials; I bought a sheet of hardboard ( shiny on one side, rough pattern on the other ) and I cut a base shape. since I'm using black house paint with sand for texture it has a lot of moisture in it and it soaks in...even with hardboard...so I got warping. Not massive warping, but enough to lift the edges and make it look like characters have to use a step to get onto terrain pieces. Aesthetics are very important to me...if it doesn't look good, it's not rewarding. I used a sheet of Plexiglas to try that and it is Fantastic! The best part is, Plexiglas comes shipped with paper to peel off on both sides. I left the paper on and painted over it ( thus I did not have to rough up the plexi surface to get tooth for paint. The pieces have remained absolutely flat on my gaming table! I also thought " hey, if I get bored with the finish i've put on this mounting board I can always peel off the paper and start over ( then I'd have to rough up the glass surface...but meh! ). so...Plexiglas = win!
  9. no, i didn't bother because I can jam a small screwdriver into the bubble holes to irregularily chip them and make it like pieces of rock have broken off of the gravestones; it will make for more edges to catch dry brushing for details. I tend to try to make silk purses out of sows ears! :-)
  10. yeah, the tools are a non issue for me. I use a jigsaw or a router; whichever one suits the need. Agreed on any comments about wearing a dust mask when cutting any form of particle or processed fiber board. The glues and resins they use to make the stuff is horrible for the ol' lungs. I was thinking that if the masonite doesn't work for me I could try plexiglass. For paint to stick I would have to really rough it up though...and I hope I don't have to resort to plexi because the stuff is horrendously expensive! I just recently found out how expensive high density insulation foam is for scenery building; I bought two 8'X2'X2" sheets and they came to $65 Canadian ( about 30 odd British pounds, or about close to $60 American )!!! .....Don't tell my wife! :spank:
  11. sweet! I'll put this one to the test on one building and report back to you. If all goes well I'll complete the rest of them with masonite and you will be my new best friend! :dancing:
  12. I have solved two of my gaming issues in one! I play Warmachine as well, and I find that since the town of Malifaux has a distinct steampunk feel to it as well as western, I can use my Warmachine buildings quite nicely. I do not have any Warmachine faction markings on any of my buildings...that helps in not making them look out of place. All I have really had to do is make sure I throw in the odd western building or victorian building to make it more Malifauxy ... ( Malifauxey?? )
  13. Hey any of you scenery building fanatics ( you know who you are ) ! I have an issue here that I cannot seem to be able to solve? I have been mounting my buildings on quarter inch thick baseboards in order to be able to adorn my buildings with surrounding shrubs, trees fence posts etc... I have been base coating the baseboards with textured flat black acrylic house paint ( black paint that I added sand to for a scaled rocky texture ). The first baseboards I tried were made from foam core. After they were completed they got all warped. They would not sit flat at the edges on my table. Then I tried plywood baseboards...they also ended up buckling slightly and lifting at the edges. I don't really want to go any thicker on the baseboards themselves as i do not want to make it look as though all of my buildings are up on slight hills in relation to the street level. Any suggestions as to what material I could use that will stay perfectly flat after painting it and mounting my buildings on it? Trial and error is quickly becoming error and error, and that's really...uh...trying! O.o Thanks for any suggestions! - Wet.
  14. i have a 4X4 table and find it a bit too big. In order to still use this and creatively cordon off an area to make it 3X3 i can use quite a few buildings placed around the board at the edges to make a perimeter. The other thing that I am in the middle of doing is building four strips of gentle rolling hills to border the table. The strips will be 6" deep all around to make the board a 3X3. No one can deploy or move beyond the hills. This could represent the borders between Malifaux and the badlands or the Bayou? I think I'll even put a small wooden sign on one hill strip with an arrow and words saying " to the Quarantine Zone "! ... Anything to avoid the unsightly border proxying with dice! It really visually detracts from the game!
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